KHE Posted January 2, 2006 Report Share Posted January 2, 2006 I have seen the torque angle meters at Sears. They are also available at auto parts stores for $30 or so. It is imperitave that you use a torque andle meter when torquing the head bolts. Also, I would replace the heater core...the JB Weld repair will fail at the most inconvenient time. A core from any major auto parts store should work just fine. Not to add to your project but if your case half seal is leaking, now is the time to replace that with the new gasket and anerobic sealant. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted January 2, 2006 Report Share Posted January 2, 2006 That part you are pointing to looks like an old PCV valve Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdictas Posted January 2, 2006 Report Share Posted January 2, 2006 Jbelleldo, It's a slow day at work today, so I read through your entire thread. I hope you were just kidding us on the little silver part you were holding between your fingers (It's a PCV valve. As you face the engine, it slides into the top left side of the rear valve cover.) It sounds like you do not have a set metric sockets or wrenches, if this is the case, you better go out and purchase these items. EVERY bolt, screw and nut on your vehicle is metric. You will also need a torque wrench as well. BUY a new heater core, the JB weld will never hold (Murphy's law). I'd send the heads out for reconditioning while you have them off. A good engine shop can clean up the heads for you professionally (remove carbon build up, check for burnt valves, etc). There are a whole host of preventative maintenance items you can do NOW that the engine is out. But I'm sure other members will chime when the time is right. This is a very ambitious project you have undertaken, as other members have stated, follow the manual implicity - no shortcut. I hope my email is not too negative, I'm just concern. I will be following your posts along with everyone else. I think we all feel we are working on this project with you. Looking forward to your posts and pics. Chuck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBellELDO Posted January 2, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2006 Jbelleldo, It's a slow day at work today, so I read through your entire thread. I hope you were just kidding us on the little silver part you were holding between your fingers (It's a PCV valve. As you face the engine, it slides into the top left side of the rear valve cover.) I had no idea what that part was. I hope your right about it being a PCV valve. -Jon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted January 2, 2006 Report Share Posted January 2, 2006 Get a new all metal aftermarket heater core. It's just $30. Autoparts store or Cadillac dealership? -Jon Dealership would not sell aftermarket. I bought mine at Pepboys. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBellELDO Posted January 2, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2006 Alright, Ill do that today then. Where do I get a puller to pull the harmonic balancer? -Jon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBellELDO Posted January 2, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2006 PS. I only have till friday to have this car out of the garage. Workin on it at home and the father wants the garage back this weekend...I feel confident I can have it done by then with your guys' help. -Jon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted January 3, 2006 Report Share Posted January 3, 2006 Alright, Ill do that today then. Where do I get a puller to pull the harmonic balancer? -Jon Looking at the manual it looks like a standard 3 jaw puller (sears sells a three jaw puller), see this link plus your manual http://aarc.epnet.com/application/9104/910...er_and_Seal.htm See this link also http://www.v8mr2.com/reference/Engine_rebuild.pdf Mike Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBellELDO Posted January 4, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2006 ok, things arent going so well...ive decided to only do the right head gasket and timesert. I scared the hell out of myself tonight timeserting the block. first the guide dowels wouldnt come free from the block so I decided to drill it anyway...mistake. Broke a tap in the rear left most head bolt well on the right of the bank. Got that out and tapped it the rest of the way down. I'm goin to finish this headgasket and timesert on the right bank and reinstall the heads without the guide dowels...I realize this may have consequences, but I see no alternative at this time... I'm scared sh*tless that all this is for nothing. I am losing confidence in my ability to finish this task successfully, I may have taken on something I cant complete... -Jon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted January 4, 2006 Report Share Posted January 4, 2006 ok, things arent going so well...ive decided to only do the right head gasket and timesert. I scared the hell out of myself tonight timeserting the block. first the guide dowels wouldnt come free from the block so I decided to drill it anyway...mistake. Broke a tap in the rear left most head bolt well on the right of the bank. Got that out and tapped it the rest of the way down. I'm goin to finish this headgasket and timesert on the right bank and reinstall the heads without the guide dowels...I realize this may have consequences, but I see no alternative at this time... I'm scared sh*tless that all this is for nothing. I am losing confidence in my ability to finish this task successfully, I may have taken on something I cant complete... -Jon Jon, calm down... This is really not a job one can accomplish while pressed for time. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted January 4, 2006 Report Share Posted January 4, 2006 Are you referring to the alignment dowels between the head and block??? If so, DO NOT install the head without the dowels. Buy new dowels from the dealer - they are relatively inexpensive and are required to properly align the head with the block. If you have a flaring tool, use that to clamp onto the dowels and work them out. You mentioned that you broke a tap - the timesert tap? Are you using tapping fluid made for aluminum? Also, when tapping, turn the tap clockwise 1 turn, then back it off 1/2 turn to chase the chips into the flutes of the tap. Then repeat and you shouldn't break the tap. Also, do not force the tap - it's possible that you bottomed the tap in the hole and that's why it broke. Again, as long as the engine is out, replace the front head gasket and timesert the holes. If you don't, and the front gasket fails, you'll be going through all the work again - in my opinion, saving a couple of hours timeserting is not worth risking a whole day to pull the engine to get to the same point you're at now. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhall Posted January 5, 2006 Report Share Posted January 5, 2006 JBellELDO, See if you have a long socket that will slip inside the dowels and clamp the outside of the dowel with a pair of vice-grip pliers. This will allow you to work the dowel out of the head by rotation. The socket will prevent the dowel from being crushed / jammed into the head. Buy new dowels. Use liberal amounts of WD-40 when drilling and tapping (recommended by Timesert and it works very well). Make sure you pull the drill out and wipe it every few seconds so the chips can fall free. Drilling continuously will jam the bit and make a less-than -ccurate hole for the tap. Back the tap out as recommended by KHE so the tap is not forced to cut excess metal chips. I would strongly recommend using a non-flammable brake cleaner to flush the holes out and also to clean the bit or tap. CRC brake cleaner works great. If you have the engine on a stand, you can rotate the head just beyond horizontal to everthing will drain out. Use some cardboard and duct tape to cover the cylinders and use a strip of duct tape to cover the inlet ports. You don't want any metal chips in the engine. An air compressor nozzle with a piece of hose is great when doing a final cleaning of the tapped holes (again - get all the chips out!). Use a flashlight to make sure the holes are clean. Don't freak out. You got the engine out OK with a couple of oops moments. No problem. Buy a new heater core instead of repairing the old one and move ahead with the work. Go ahead and repair the other cylinder head. Chances are you'll get many more miles out of the engine and you'll want the head gaskets to outlast the other engine parts! Keep us posted! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry94 Posted January 5, 2006 Report Share Posted January 5, 2006 While reading jhall's reply, he mentioned about the importance of cleaning out the holes. Just to add to that, when you install the Timesert insert you will use the special oil provided with the kit to help the insertion tool do it's job. This will leave a deposit of oil on the inside threads of the insert. Since the head bolts rely on a locking compound on the head bolt threads to secure the headbolts, this won't happen unless the insert threads are very clean and oil free. I used brake cleaner and a small tooth brush. The tooth brush was small enough to fit inside the insert and to get to the bottom of the threads, and with brake cleaner and a few rotations of the tooth brush, it really cleaned the threads well. I then air hosed the hole and repeated the process a couple times to insure the threads were clean and dry. Barry 2008 STS V82016 Colorado Z711970 Corvette LT-1 Coupe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBellELDO Posted January 6, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2006 things are going better. broke my oil cooler, the little radiator-like cooler that sits forward the coolant radiator. Where do I get a new one? Autoparts store? -Jon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBellELDO Posted January 6, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2006 anyone have a vac diagram? i dont know where the vaccum lines go. or if someone could explain where the vac lines hook up tha would work too. -Jon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted January 6, 2006 Report Share Posted January 6, 2006 things are going better. broke my oil cooler, the little radiator-like cooler that sits forward the coolant radiator. Where do I get a new one? Autoparts store? -Jon Aux. tranny oil cooler? Any aftermarket will work. Try rockauto.com, gmpartsdirect.com or advance autoparts. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted January 6, 2006 Report Share Posted January 6, 2006 anyone have a vac diagram? i dont know where the vaccum lines go. or if someone could explain where the vac lines hook up tha would work too. -Jon I guess you didn't take my advice and take digital photos. I can't help you with the 94, no manual, maybe someone with a 94 manual can help. You got a manual, didn't you?, you should find the vacuum hose routing in there. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBellELDO Posted January 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2006 Ok, one connector near the front right of the motor and one vac line at the cruise control are still lonely...anyone with a 94 Eldo could help me out? -Jon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBellELDO Posted January 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2006 Battery positive run to the alternator or negative? Anyone know anything about the oil cooler mounted forward the radiator? Where do the two leads from the negative battery terminal go? I have one grouned to the body of the car and one grouned to the motor. Vaccum ports on the cruise control modual, I dont have a hose to attach to it....anyone know the vac routing? Still have one red wire connector that has no buddy near the firewall front right of the motor.. Will post pics in a sec. -Jon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBellELDO Posted January 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2006 heres the electrical connector....any ideas? Circled (kinda) in red. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted January 8, 2006 Report Share Posted January 8, 2006 I think that plugs into the ignition module under the coil packs Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBellELDO Posted January 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2006 took the coils off....where is this ignition modual? -Jon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted January 8, 2006 Report Share Posted January 8, 2006 OK I looked closer, the connection to the ignition module is on, see it here I circled it. I don't now what the you are pointing at is for, but the mate can't be too far away... Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBellELDO Posted January 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2006 cant find it...hopefully it runs! -Jon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBellELDO Posted January 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2006 clicks but wont turn over... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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