jhall Posted November 29, 2005 Report Share Posted November 29, 2005 JBellELDO, 1. Can I pull the engine out of the top? 2. Could I have a shop pull the motor for me, then I move it all, do the work and have the put it back in? 3. What special tools will I need? Yes, the engine (and transmission) can be pulled from the top. You'll need to remove the hood. Make sure you scribe the hinge locations and get help when lifting the hood. (Not too heavy, but a drop would be costly). It's a very tight squeeze when doing the engine R&R (about 1/2" play either side). Keep the engine pushed a little so the front of the engine stays close to the passenger side of the car. Make sure the AC drier and lines don't get nailed and watch out for the brake master cylinder as you lift. I'd recommend pulling the engine and transmission as one unit. They can be separated so the trans is left in the car, but if you pull the engine, you might as well check the trans and change the main filter and pan seals while the engine is out. Hope you purchased a Helms manual. This is by far the best route. Check the details on removing the front wheel /brake/ drive axle assemblies. This is not as difficult as it looks and it can be done without disassembling the springs/struts. If you have a shop pull the engine, make darn sure they are diligent with disconnecting all the harness connections and will pull it out CAREFULLY to make sure nothing's damaged by hang-ups. Care needs to be exersized in not bumping the ABS/TCS module. A little improvising can be done for the tools to remove the drive axles from the transmission (flat pry bar and a block of wood), but you will need a pulley remover for the water pump drive pulley on the end of the front (left) cam shaft. This is the same puler that is used to remove the power steering pump pulley. if you need to change the water pump, NAPA sells a pretty good tool for about $35. You will also need the large socket for the shaft nuts on the drive axles so the front wheel assemblies can be moved out of the way An engine balancer should be used with the engine hoist so you can shift the angle of the enfgine slightly while removing / installing. It's not absolutely required - I did the R&R on my Deville without one - but it would have reduced the bumping and pushing to squeeze it back in. Keep us posted on your progress! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted November 29, 2005 Report Share Posted November 29, 2005 jhall, didnt you detach the AC compressor and set it on the side also? Mike Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhall Posted November 29, 2005 Report Share Posted November 29, 2005 jhall, didnt you detach the AC compressor and set it on the side also? Mike Yeah - forgot that little detail. JBellELDO: Pull the radiator and remove the brackets for the condenser coil. Make sure you remove the AC line bracket on the driver's side of the car. Lift the coil up on the passenger side and block it up (a piece of wood is fine). This provides access to the alternator and the AC compressor. Check the board for alternator removal. One of the bolts is up under the manifold and is a pain to reach - patience is a virtue here. The AC compressor drops out pretty easy after the alternator is removed. Tie it toward the front of the car out of the way of the engine. I'd recommend a piece of 1/4" plywood over the condenser coil during engine removal so there's less chance of damage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBellELDO Posted December 23, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2005 where can i find a timesert kit? I need one by the end of the week. thanks! -Jon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted December 23, 2005 Report Share Posted December 23, 2005 Go to http://www.timesert.com , find the timesert kit you need under kits and inserts, manufacturer kit, GENERAL MOTORS, Click information and distributor list, and call one near you. Many of the distributors have their own web page.. Good Luck Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBellELDO Posted December 27, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2005 Ok, im doin this starting on wednesday. I have the GM Factory Service manuals to lead me through it. I will keep you all posted. Oh, Im planning on doin this with the motor in the car and only replacing the right headgasket(firewall side). Short on time. -Jon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarrenJ Posted December 27, 2005 Report Share Posted December 27, 2005 Ok, im doin this starting on wednesday. I have the GM Factory Service manuals to lead me through it. I will keep you all posted. Oh, Im planning on doin this with the motor in the car and only replacing the right headgasket(firewall side). Short on time. -Jon GOOD LUCK !!! (and make us proud!) There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted December 27, 2005 Report Share Posted December 27, 2005 Do yourself a favor and take digital photos throughout the process each time you get to a spot where there is major disassembly so that later you can refer to the photos. That should speed your reassembly and jog your memory later for how wires, ignition wires, vacuum hoses etc are routed. Don't forget to mark your ignition wires. Make sure you have all the odd tools you will need, like fuel line disconnect tool (if needed), Torx set, and anything else you can think of, etc.. Think of what gaskets you will need for reassembly, like EGR gasket while you are there with the fuel rail off, cam cover seals and spark plug hole seals. There is a tool you can buy from GOOD tool shops that will allow you to tilt you engine, see this >> http://www.etoolcart.com/browseproducts/En...---THX419X.HTML The plastic HVAC housing might be brittle and crack easily. When you get the rear head off you might consider replacing it, especially if you crack it..its going to be hard NOT to damage it, they become very brittle with heat and age. Consider ordering it now from the dealer to save time, you might thank me later. Post your progress. Good Luck. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBellELDO Posted December 27, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2005 I know the intake manifold and cams covers must be removed, but my GM manual states that the harmonic balancer, front cover and oil pump must be removed. Is this so? If it is, for harmonic balancer removal, where do I get a flywheel holder p/n 39411? The remover also? Step three under cylinder head removal states "[Remove] Chain tensioner from timing chain for cylinder head being removed. Align all timing marks first!" Now I havent torn it down yet to see if looking at the chain and sprockets makes sense of this, but could I get a detailed explanation of this? Just tryin to clear things up so I dont get held up as long while I'm working... Thanks to all of you! -Jon The plastic HVAC housing might be brittle and crack easily. When you get the rear head off you might consider replacing it, especially if you crack it..its going to be hard NOT to damage it, they become very brittle with heat and age. Consider ordering it now from the dealer to save time, you might thank me later. Post your progress. Good Luck. What exactally do I ask for when I call GM for this part? Thanks! -Jon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted December 27, 2005 Report Share Posted December 27, 2005 I am going to leave the front cover and harmonic balancer to the members that have done this job as they will know better. Seems odd to have to remove the harmonic balancer, but I have not done the job "yet" maybe its necessary.... The timing chain would bother me. There is a ratcheting tensioner that is tricky if I recall. I will do a search for it. I would MARK the HELL out of the CAM gears, chain, etc. There are reference DOTS, I would line them up before I disconnected the chain and pulled the head and avoid turning the engine. I have to believe that at TDC, those DOTS line up nicely.. I will look my manual over. Its the plastic HVAC housing as far as I know, tell them they are known to crack I am sure most parts counters have had to order them and I would be surprised if they didn't have it in stock due to demand. Look at my above post again, I edited it and added more in case you didnt see it, Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted December 27, 2005 Report Share Posted December 27, 2005 Here is a flywheel holder: http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?PageAct...ROD&ProdID=1534 Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBellELDO Posted December 30, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2005 ok, ran into a prob i should have seen earlier. I cant remove the front right wheel from the hub... There is one lug that I broke two wrenches on and the lug tool that came with the car... What now? I also changed my plans, with a little over the phone help from a good guy in MN, I plan on removin the engine from the bottom along with the tranny. Im gonna free the motor, lower it with an engine hoist onto a creeper with casters and plywood, raise the car by the front bumper brace using the engine hoist and slide the motor out the drivers side of the car. With the wheel still on, can I just remove the CV axle from the hub and take that out with the tranny and motor? I dont see why that wouldnt work. There are also some lines goin into the radiator that I cant remove. I belive they are AC lines. I really dont want to open the AC system or remove it at all, what do I do here? I'll have access to the internet in my garage so feel free to email me any help @ jdbell2004@yahoo.com or better yet, call me if you've done this, I could really use the help! 5157718513. Thanks to all of you for all the help so far! I'm gonna tackle this beast! -Jon I can send pics of what I'm talking about too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted December 30, 2005 Report Share Posted December 30, 2005 1) use an 6 pt impact socket to get the lugs off or drill them off then replace the studs in the hub flange 2) DO NOT over-extend the inner CV joint, see manual for warnings! The way you are thinking of doing it will be very difficult, get the tire off, take off the large nut allow the control arms to hang, undo the ball joints and remove the axles. SEE WARNINGS ABOUT OVEREXTENDING... You are going to need to support the frame with jack stands 3) the lines going INTO the radiator are OIL cooler and TRANNY cooler lines most probably, use an in-line wrench, standard wrenches will likely round them over 4) DO NOT disconnect the AC compressor, remove it and set it on the side, we previously discussed this with jhall.. Where did you get the timesert kit? Good Luck Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted December 30, 2005 Report Share Posted December 30, 2005 ok, ran into a prob i should have seen earlier. I cant remove the front right wheel from the hub... There is one lug that I broke two wrenches on and the lug tool that came with the car... What now? I also changed my plans, with a little over the phone help from a good guy in MN, I plan on removin the engine from the bottom along with the tranny. Im gonna free the motor, lower it with an engine hoist onto a creeper with casters and plywood, raise the car by the front bumper brace using the engine hoist and slide the motor out the drivers side of the car. With the wheel still on, can I just remove the CV axle from the hub and take that out with the tranny and motor? I dont see why that wouldnt work. There are also some lines goin into the radiator that I cant remove. I belive they are AC lines. I really dont want to open the AC system or remove it at all, what do I do here? I'll have access to the internet in my garage so feel free to email me any help @ jdbell2004@yahoo.com or better yet, call me if you've done this, I could really use the help! 5157718513. Thanks to all of you for all the help so far! I'm gonna tackle this beast! -Jon I can send pics of what I'm talking about too. You need to remove the tire and wheel assembly....Take the car to a tire shop and let the tire monkies remove the frozen lug nut with their impact wrench. Then install it and tighten it yourself so you will be able to remove it once you are back at your own garage. My advice is to follow the factory shop manual to the letter - do not attempt to shortcut or rush anything...I realize you are on a time constraint but if you attempt to rush or shortcut the job, you will be spending much more time and money than you originally planned. Also, buy the head gasket kit from the Cadillac dealer - it will contain the gaskets and the new head bolts. Since you're going to have the engine out, I would timesert both heads - it won't take you that much longer and then it will be bulletproof for the rest of the vehicle life. The last thing you want is to have the front headgasket fail soon after completing the job on the rear head - you'll need to go through all the work again. If the rear gasket failed, the front one may not be too far behind - you never know. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBellELDO Posted December 30, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2005 Do I need to remove these two lines? They're above and to the right of the washer fluid filler cap in the pic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted December 30, 2005 Report Share Posted December 30, 2005 The connections that I circled in RED are to the AC condenser, don't disconnect them you will let the freon charge out, Mike Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBellELDO Posted December 30, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2005 good to know, thanks! -Jon How does the A/C compressor come off? I took the belt and 3 15mm bolts off and it wont come off... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted December 30, 2005 Report Share Posted December 30, 2005 There is a bolt at the rear and it is connected to the piping at the rear, here is a photo of the compressor line fitting, you don't want to detach this... Here is a photo of the compressor with all bolts/nuts... You may not be able to move the compressor very far out of the way because of the hose connection, you may need to wire it up until you drop the carriage, and set it aside, it will stay with the car when you drop the carriage... darn, I have a GOOD MEMORY! Here is how growe3 handled his AC Compressor! See this thread: http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?sho...t=0entry29640 Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted December 30, 2005 Report Share Posted December 30, 2005 You may not be able to move the compressor very far out of the way because of the hose connection, you may need to wire it up until you drop the carriage, and set it aside, it will stay with the car when you drop the carriage... Actually the compressor will stay on the frame when you pull the engine up and out.... Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBellELDO Posted December 31, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2005 Ok, it's almost out... Little problems all over. I got the wheel off with an air wrench. The bolts on the front crossmember where the front motor mount is, the bolts holding that on came off wiht ease. I was using a standard air socket when I think its a 15mm that I need, anyway, it fit and got the front off, but the rear bolts are not as easy. The standard socket almost rounded the heads...so Im gettin a 15mm air socket tomorrow morning and try again. These are the ones that I cant get off yet. Heres a pic of the progress so far. BTW this is comming out of the bottom with the transmission and struts. I dont want to disconnect the brake lines so I just unbolted the ABS from the front crossmember Any pointers are welcome! -Jon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted December 31, 2005 Report Share Posted December 31, 2005 You said you were pulling the powertrain from the bottom but from your pictures, it looks like you're pulling it from the top. That's fine - I was just curious. Be very careful when pulling the engine that you do not pinch any wiring harness, etc. It is best to have a helper watching as the clearances are very close. The engine leveler will make things easier. All sorts of small problems will arise such as what you've found already - you'll get through it. Thinking ahead to the timeserting and reassembly, do you have a torque angle indicator? You will need that as well as a standard torque wrench. The head bolt torque specs. are an initial torque and then X number of degrees. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted December 31, 2005 Report Share Posted December 31, 2005 You said a 'standard' socket, is that a 12 point or 6 point socket? Use only 6 point sockets if you have not done so Also try lifting on the carriage to take some of the pressure off that bolt when you try to remove it, if you have not done so Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBellELDO Posted January 2, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2006 Ok, motor is out! Ran into a few problems, but thats life right? First the ABS electrical connector would not come free so I makred and cut the wires, I will splice them later. Next I found a part on the ground after trying to lower the motor out the bottom the fist time. It was found near the front of the engine or the passenger side. Any idea where this guy goes? Sure hope so! Also, When I raised the car over the motor, I failed to remove the heater core hoses.... stupid me. Anyway, it broke the nipples off the heater core so I pulled the heater core and JB welded the nipples back on, they are airtight at the moment, hope they hold! Im gonna reinforce them somemore before I install it again. Tomorrow I start the timeserting, wish me luck again! Also, what kind of pulley puller do I need for the harmonic balancer and the waterpump pulley? Where can I get one? Also what are these cylinder head guide dowels that I hear about? Any ideas? Thanks guys! -Jon Oh, that carriage bolt, I just ground the hell out of it with a dremel and it poped the head off and the carraige fell, so all is good there! -Jon The fun never ends... Thinking ahead to the timeserting and reassembly, do you have a torque angle indicator? You will need that as well as a standard torque wrench. The head bolt torque specs. are an initial torque and then X number of degrees. PS. KHE, where would one come across one of these fine devices? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted January 2, 2006 Report Share Posted January 2, 2006 Get a new all metal aftermarket heater core. It's just $30. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBellELDO Posted January 2, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2006 Get a new all metal aftermarket heater core. It's just $30. Autoparts store or Cadillac dealership? -Jon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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