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New AC Compressor


Scotty

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A flush gun is going to cost in the $40 range. Depending on how often you will use it will play a big factor in the decision.

The GM compressors are not the "black death" generating type like some Ford compressors so the debris should flush out of your system fairly easy. You will need to flush each line/component separately.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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A flush gun is going to cost in the $40 range. Depending on how often you will use it will play a big factor in the decision.

The GM compressors are not the "black death" generating type like some Ford compressors so the debris should flush out of your system fairly easy. You will need to flush each line/component separately.

Do I need to disconnect the condensor and evaporator from all associated lines to flush them or can I flush them through the attached lines? Anotherwords, at the rear of the compressor is a line that goes into the condensor, can I just flush through the line at the rear of the compressor through the condensor and out the 'liquid line' to the orifice tube connection?

If I detach a line from a component, am I correct that I must replace any o-rings?

post-3-1115057780_thumb.jpg

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A flush gun is going to cost in the $40 range.  Depending on how often you will use it will play a big factor in the decision.

The GM compressors are not the "black death" generating type like some Ford compressors so the debris should flush out of your system fairly easy.  You will need to flush each line/component separately.

Do I need to disconnect the condensor and evaporator from all associated lines to flush them or can I flush them through the attached lines? Anotherwords, at the rear of the compressor is a line that goes into the condensor, can I just flush through the line at the rear of the compressor through the condensor and out the 'liquid line' to the orifice tube connection?

If I detach a line from a component, am I correct that I must replace any o-rings?

Yes - you need to disconnect each component to flush and you will need to replace the o-rings upon reassembly.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Yes - you need to disconnect each component to flush and you will need to replace the o-rings upon reassembly.

Thanks Kevin, wow this is a PIA! Now I see why they wanted $50 to $100 to perfom this task, and I doubt that they would have replaced the o-rings.

I assume its OK to use nylog on all of the o-rings on reconnection?

What do you think of this O-Ring Kit from AC Source, for $6.80? Why are the o-rings green?

Cadillac Deville (87-04) O-Ring Kit

http://www.acsource.com/index.asp?PageActi...ROD&ProdID=1060

Do you think this flush kit will be adequate? How long do I flush each component? Do I follow up the flush with compressed air? Here is a flush kit I found

http://www.acsource.com/index.asp?PageActi...PROD&ProdID=345

Thanks, Mike

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Yes - you need to disconnect each component to flush and you will need to replace the o-rings upon reassembly.

Thanks Kevin, wow this is a PIA! Now I see why they wanted $50 to $100 to perfom this task, and I doubt that they would have replaced the o-rings.

I assume its OK to use nylog on all of the o-rings on reconnection?

What do you think of this O-Ring Kit from AC Source, for $6.80? Why are the o-rings green?

Cadillac Deville (87-04) O-Ring Kit

http://www.acsource.com/index.asp?PageActi...ROD&ProdID=1060

Do you think this flush kit will be adequate? How long do I flush each component? Do I follow up the flush with compressed air? Here is a flush kit I found

http://www.acsource.com/index.asp?PageActi...PROD&ProdID=345

Thanks, Mike

Looks good to me. I wouldn't get too worried on the color of the o-rings. The green color used to mean that the material was compatible with R-134a but I don't think it means much anymore.

You can use either Nylog or 525 viscosity mineral (R-12 oil) refrigerant oil on the o-rings. Use of the PAG oil to lube o-rings is not recommended per the service manual.

Considering the cost of the tools, parts and flush solvent, the $50-100 price sounds fair... You can also use brake cleaner spray to flush the various components. Make sure it is is the type that doesn't leave a residue when it evaporates. Others use mineral spirits or you can buy the A/C flush solvent. Flush each component until no oil, crud, etc. comes out. It is best to reverse flush the system as well.

If your condenser is a parallel flow, you will need to remove it and lay it flat to flush it.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Kevin sorry for all of the questions, but by parallel flow do you mean that the passages run from side to side?

Its not too hard to take the condensor out is it? When I flush it all that matters is that its laying down flat with its connections facing up? I assume that I must protect all of the painted surfaces with this flush?

This is good because I will be able to clean the condensor and radiator fins real good (brake cleaner and compressed air ok for that?) Thanks, Mike

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I just ordered the o-rings and flush from ac source with two day delivery OUCH.

It will take at least that long for me to get the compressor and condensor off, and to open all of the connections and leave them finger tight ready for flushing.

When I take the compressor off, should I tape the connections closed to keep dirt out until I flush it?

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Use care when disconnecting the lines - after 9 years, there is bound to be some corrosion and you don't want to twist off any connectors.

A parallel flow condenser has parallel tubes that connect to a vertical tube on each side of the condenser. Serpentine condensers have one tube that snakes back and forth. Much easier to flush a serpentine condenser - you can do it while it is installed in the car. Most modern cars have the parallel flow condenser as it is more efficient. You need to remove the parallel flow condenser and lay it flat on the driveway while you flush it so that the flush solvent can penetrate each tube. If you try to flush a parallel flow condenser while it is mounted on the car, it will be very difficult if not impossible to get the flush solvent in all of the tubes.

Don't let the flush chemical contact any painted surface. Attach a clear piect of tubing on the opposite end of the device that you are flushing and direct it into a bucket. Flush both ways until no more crud comes out. Then blow out the line/condenser with compressed air.

Seal the open lines and assure that they don't contact any moving engine parts.

The worst part will be removing the condenser. It can be a PITA but if you don't get all the crud out of the system, the new compressor won't live very long.... I will bet that most of the shavings/crud will come from the condenser and the high pressure line up to the orifice tube.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Mike,

As Kevin said, be careful with the fittings. Always use 2 wrenched, one on each side of the fitting. Even so, you may find some that will be stubborn. When they move, turn the fitting nut back and forth to help prevent galling of the aluminum threads. And since you are going to flush and change all the O rings anyway, you could spray some Kroil on the fittings & let them soak overnight. That may save you a stripped or galled fitting. If you can find tubing wrenches that fit, I would use them if possible.

Boy, that picture of your compressor's clutch looks like it burnt up! :o

Good Luck with your repair.

Britt

Britt
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Mike,

As Kevin said, be careful with the fittings. Always use 2 wrenched, one on each side of the fitting. Even so, you may find some that will be stubborn. When they move, turn the fitting nut back and forth to help prevent galling of the aluminum threads. And since you are going to flush and change all the O rings anyway, you could spray some Kroil on the fittings & let them soak overnight. That may save you a stripped or galled fitting. If you can find tubing wrenches that fit, I would use them if possible.

Boy, that picture of your compressor's clutch looks like it burnt up!  :o

Good Luck with your repair.

Britt

Hmm, I didnt know about the potential for galling and breaking off fittings, I will be careful. When I removed the orifice tube the connection came apart easy I am hoping that they all are similar. I have in line wrenches up to 19 mm but some of the fittings are 28 and 32 mm so I was planning to buy wrenches (combo open and box). I also use two wrenches where possible to avoid twisting the tubing.

That compressor was a mess, I was looking at it closely the other day, the hub just flops around. The compressor was noisy from the first day I bought the car, in a way I am glad to see that the problem was internal to the compressor and not just the hub.

AC Source sent my order (flush and o-rings) already so I am getting closer to getting this done. Its a bigger job than I thought it would be. I am still pondering how I am going to get the bolt out that holds the lines on the rear of the compressor, the manual states to remove the oil filter adapter but I will not do that, I will only remove the oil filter. Thanks

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I will bet that most of the shavings/crud will come from the condenser and the high pressure line up to the orifice tube.

Kevin, that's a good point! The compressor will spill the filings right into the condenser, through the condenser into the high pressure hose, to be caught by the orifice tube. Assuming that the orifice tube did its job, there should be minimal filings beyond that point.

Do you think I should replace the condenser, or can I flush it adequately? I would imagine that I should spend most of my time with the condenser flushing it in both directions and using compressed air on it. Is one can of flush enough? Rockauto has condenser; non AC Delco at $130 and AC Delco at $240. thanks

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I will bet that most of the shavings/crud will come from the condenser and the high pressure line up to the orifice tube.

Kevin, that's a good point! The compressor will spill the filings right into the condenser, through the condenser into the high pressure hose, to be caught by the orifice tube. Assuming that the orifice tube did its job, there should be minimal filings beyond that point.

Do you think I should replace the condenser, or can I flush it adequately? I would imagine that I should spend most of my time with the condenser flushing it in both directions and using compressed air on it. Is one can of flush enough? Rockauto has condenser; non AC Delco at $130 and AC Delco at $240. thanks

Flush the entire system anyway just to be sure and to remove all the old oil. That way you can add a entire fresh oil charge to the system. I would flush your existing condenser - plug the opposite end with your thumb to create some back pressure and then let it blow through. When you think you have it clean, flush it a few more times.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Kevin, I was just under the hood and it looks like I have to remove the radiator to get the condenser out. It looks like I will be able to take a bunch of the lines and hoses out and flush them out of the car which should help.

Do you think one can of flush is adequate? If I need more what kind of local shops carry the flush?

I had planned to do the thermostat, green hoses, by-pass hose, upper hose and flush my cooling system anyway so that process will happen faster now.

A side benefit is that I will be able to get at and see the compressor easier with the radiator out! Yeah! Thanks, Mike

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Green hoses? I think those are silicone hoses and are pretty much lifetime parts?

How much fluch solvent is in the can that you bought? I have seen A/C flush solvents at auto parts stores. You could flush with mineral spirits first and then follow up with the A/C flush solvent. Just a thought.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Green hoses? I think those are silicone hoses and are pretty much lifetime parts?

How much fluch solvent is in the can that you bought? I have seen A/C flush solvents at auto parts stores. You could flush with mineral spirits first and then follow up with the A/C flush solvent. Just a thought.

Kevin, after reading this article regarding parallel condensers I am thinking of replacing my condenser. Hey, for saving $150 by flushing the old condenser, I could blow a new compressor if debris remains.

This article does not recommend flushing parallel condensers IF a compressor has self destructed. Given the volume of metal filings that clogged my orifice tube, I am thinking that it probably makes sense to replace the condenser.... Are there any lines that have filters in them or expansion valves? Thanks, Mike

http://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/us40330.htm

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Green hoses?  I think those are silicone hoses and are pretty much lifetime parts?

How much fluch solvent is in the can that you bought?  I have seen A/C flush solvents at auto parts stores.  You could flush with mineral spirits first and then follow up with the A/C flush solvent.  Just a thought.

Kevin, after reading this article regarding parallel condensers I am thinking of replacing my condenser. Hey, for saving $150 by flushing the old condenser, I could blow a new compressor if debris remains.

This article does not recommend flushing parallel condensers IF a compressor has self destructed. Given the volume of metal filings that clogged my orifice tube, I am thinking that it probably makes sense to replace the condenser.... Are there any lines that have filters in them or expansion valves? Thanks, Mike

http://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/us40330.htm

Condenser replacement would be the safest method. You still need to flush the evaporator and lines. I am not aware of any inline filter in these systems. The "expansion valve" is really the orifice tube in these cars.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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  • 3 weeks later...

Ok I got my old compressor out, it was not too bad to get out once I got the oil filter adapter out. It helps to have 3/8" joint universals to get at the oil filter adapter bolts and the compressor bracket bolt that attaches to the engine.

Brasington sent me the wrong oil filter adapter seals :( , so I will be on the phone with them on Monday. I am putting the oil filter adapter back in now as I have to go to New York City in the morning. I am going to drain the compressor and see how much oil is in it... looking good so far. Kevin can I flush the hoses with them in place but just disconnected? How do I catch the flush? Thanks, Mike

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I hung the compressor upside down and turned it, and no oil came out, is that possible? Its sitting upside down in a plastic container, I will see if anything comes out in the morning, I doubt it however...

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Just looked after the compressor stood upside down overnight and it was dry as a bone not one drop of oil came out of the compressor, can the oil burn up from the compressor destroying itself?

I didn't look yet but I think a full load of Pag oil in the new compressor is 3 ounces plus or minus what came out of the old unit... So in this instance since it was dry, I would install 3 ounces. Correct? I plan to load the oil and then work it in by hand by turning the compressor.

Next comes removing the condenser, then flushing the lines and evaporator. Reading the manual, it does not appear to be a bad job removing the condenser we will see..

By the way, the NYLOG was great stuff for holding the O-Rings in place on the oil filter adapter while I put it back in place, Thanks Kevin

I replaced my water pump tensioner, the old bearing felt a little rough when I got it out, but it was still servicable I think.

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Mike,

You can flush the lines in place but disconnect each line and flush each component individually. Try to catch the flush with a pan or margarine container, etc - anything you can fit in there.

Since you are replacing the condenser, accumulator, compressor and flushing the lines and evaporator, the system will require a full charge of oil which is 8 ozs - check the label on the old accumulator to be sure. Add as much of the oil to the new compressor's suction port while rotating the clutch. Put the remaining oil in the accumulator.

It doesn't surprise me that you did not recover any oil from the old compressor. I will bet that you will find the oil in the old accumulator.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Thanks Kevin, assuming that the oil is in the accumulator and the compressor is dry, is that the reason the compressor destroyed itself or is it normal for the compressor to be dry? Thanks

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Thanks Kevin, assuming that the oil is in the accumulator and the compressor is dry, is that the reason the compressor destroyed itself or is it normal for the compressor to be dry? Thanks

It's hard to say what caused the compressor to fail. I've removed compressors and had them drain oil and others have not.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Awhile ago I did an R/R job with a rebuilt (by Delco) Delco Compressor. It came shipped full of oil. I drained the "Shipping Oil" to find it was discolored (dark). I filled it with fresh oil, turned it some to distribute the oil and drained it again. The new oil was slightly discolored. I filled it again with fresh oil, turned it, and drained it. This time the oil was nice and clean. You might want to give your new unit a "courtesy flush" with fresh oil, to be sure it's CLEAN inside. IMO, the oil's cheap insurance for the best job possible.

rek

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Awhile ago I did an R/R job with a rebuilt (by Delco) Delco Compressor. It came shipped full of oil. I drained the "Shipping Oil" to find it was discolored (dark). I filled it with fresh oil, turned it some to distribute the oil and drained it again. The new oil was slightly discolored. I filled it again with fresh oil, turned it, and drained it. This time the oil was nice and clean. You might want to give your new unit a "courtesy flush" with fresh oil, to be sure it's CLEAN inside. IMO, the oil's cheap insurance for the best job possible.

Thanks for the tip

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