jschunke Posted June 27, 2018 Report Share Posted June 27, 2018 Hi, it's a 2005 SRX. the brake lines are corroding at all of those plastic retainer blocks. one just let loose and leaks. it appears there may be some kind of chemical reaction between those retainers and lines. does anyone know how to remove the brake lines from those blocks. are they just pressed in? how serious of a job is it to replace these lines. it looks like a bear. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted June 28, 2018 Report Share Posted June 28, 2018 I just saw this happen on a 2010 Lincoln, at the retainer blocks, not sure why, car is not garaged. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jschunke Posted June 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2018 scotty still around! i'm going to leave the blocks alone, as attempting to pull one line from the block of three would destroy the other lines. so i will tie the new line to the old ones. the nuts on the ABS control module are not turning. and the 9/16 wrench is a bit loose. they seem to be a different type of fitting. there's a chance of cutting the tube close to the flare nut and use a socket with a long extension. but my gut tells me not to mess with it, rather cut the tube a foot away, and couple to the tube going to the wheel with double flare coupler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted June 30, 2018 Report Share Posted June 30, 2018 On 6/29/2018 at 6:07 PM, jschunke said: scotty still around! i'm going to leave the blocks alone, as attempting to pull one line from the block of three would destroy the other lines. so i will tie the new line to the old ones. the nuts on the ABS control module are not turning. and the 9/16 wrench is a bit loose. they seem to be a different type of fitting. there's a chance of cutting the tube close to the flare nut and use a socket with a long extension. but my gut tells me not to mess with it, rather cut the tube a foot away, and couple to the tube going to the wheel with double flare coupler. I was glad to see you come by! @jschunke I just recently replaced brake lines in a 2009 Jeep Liberty, my daughters car. In order to replace the brake hoses, the brake lines need replacing also, can you believe that?, the brake hose and brake line are one piece, what a pain in the behind. I used nickel-copper brake lines, they have the strength of steel, are easily bendable and are resistant to corrosion. Check the nickel copper lines out. Soak the fittings with a good penetrant like PB Blaster (I find PB Blaster to be the best) repeatedly for a couple of days and just let it do its soak job, and be sure to use flare nut wrenches so you don't round out the nut. The fittings come loose with a snap, not necessarily force. I find a nice solid whack with a dead blow hammer to snaps them loose, but the PB blaster helps a lot. Here is a good article on nickel-copper that I saved for future use. I bought the harbor freight hand held tubing bender that looks like a plier to be very helpful in forming the tubing. https://www.copper.org/applications/automotive/brake-tube/brake.html Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted June 30, 2018 Report Share Posted June 30, 2018 This one https://www.harborfreight.com/tube-bending-pliers-95782.html Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jschunke Posted August 20, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2018 that was not a fun job. quite nerve wracking experience. three out of four attempts to make an acceptable flare failed. flaring with those $30 kits requires patients and skill. and sealing all the leaks! i tied the new copper-nickel lines to remains of the old ones with stainless steel ties. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted August 20, 2018 Report Share Posted August 20, 2018 Yes, brake line work to me is the worst job I am not surprised. I can see the need to buy a professional flaring tool At least you got it done and the copper-nickle will never corrode. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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