Banj

New Cadillac owner 97 Deville

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Howdy y'all I'm new here. I have a 97 Deville that was given to me in my grandmas will. I have had her a couple years now and she is starting to develop some problems. I'm really hoping some of y'all can help.

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You came to the right place.  I drove a 1997 Eldorado for 15 years and its current owner is a moderator here, and we have several excellent career auto techs with extensive experience maintaining and repairing 1990's Cadillacs.


CTS-V_Dashboard.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Well she s blowing hot and cold with the heat on. The passenger side air temp dial does not work. The rear end is starting to sag and the rear passenger side tire is squeeking like crazy with new pads and caliper

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Sounds like you should have started coming here awhile back.

First, if you have new pads and caliper and they are squeaking loudly or squealing, you should take the car back to the place that did the work.  Ask them to verify that they put the right parts on your car, verified by VIN number or the options list.  Also, ask them to check the flexible brake lines and make sure that they flushed the brake fluid after work was completed.

Your car has On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) and you can access it from the A/C buttons on the radio.  There's a link in my signature block to a Caddyinfo page on how to do this.  Here's my instructions for the 1997 model year:

Here's how to put your car's computer in the diagnostic mode and list the OBD codes.  Get a pencil and paper handy, then turn the key on and wait a few seconds for the dash lights to settle to normal.  Then, on the A/C console, press <Off> and <Pass  Warmer> together for a few seconds, until all the dash lights light up like you just turned on the key.  The codes will scroll across the driver information center below the speedometer.  Write them down.  They will be of the form

ACM B1347 CURRENT

The most important parts are the single letter with four numbers and the notation CURRENT or HISTORY.  Write them down to post here.  The list will end with the prompt "PCM?"  You can press <Off> to repeat the list to catch any you missed or to check the list.  When you are done, you can take your car's computer out of the diagnostic mode by pressing the Auto button on the A/C, pressing "Info reset," or turning the key off.

The three-letter acronym is for the module that threw the code.  The modules are polled by the car's computer (the Instrument Panel Module, or IPM) in the order PCM, IPM, ACM, SDM (air bag module), TCS, RSS, PZM (body module), IRC (radio), RFA (key fob), CCP (Climate Control Panel), MSM, MMM, PHN.  Modules may be skipped if the car is not so equipped (RSS, PHN) and the list may vary with different options.

When you are done, post your OBD codes here.  We should be able to tell you what is happening with your A/C and rear suspension self-leveling.


CTS-V_Dashboard.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Wow. Ok. Well I did the breaks myself. Had to replace the rear break lines (they rusted out) I made sure the caliper is the same. But I'm thinking I may have possibly made a mistake by putting on ceramic pads. However it squeaks even while driving. If I turn it stops.

I do almost all the work myself on her. I did the breaks. I replaced the water pump and thermostat. And I replaced the mass air flow sensor 

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 Ok all codes say History but I've got p0171,p0174,p1527,b1552,b1910,c1210,u1255,b1341 and b2560 all History

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It sounds like the calipers are not opening on the passenger side, and the brakes are dragging slightly.  This can be caused by a sticking caliper, or a flexible brake line that is breaking down inside and blocks fluid flow in one or both directions.  Also, some Cadillacs have wear sensors in the brake pads and some don't; make sure that you got the right pads for your car.

History is good.  It means that the problem isn't doing anything right this minute.  Codes are

P0171    Fuel Trim System Lean Bank 1
P0174    Fuel Trim System Lean Bank 2
P1527    Transmission Range to Pressure Switch Correlation
B1552    Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Error
B1910    Generator L-Terminal Open Circuit
c1210    [don't have that one]
U1255    Class 2 Communication Malfunction (Serial Data Line Malfunction)
B1341    Air Mix Door Two Movement Fault
b2560    [don't have that one]

The B1341 says that the problem with your A/C is an air mix door.  That's good news because it isn't Freon or the compressor or whatever.  You can check to see if vacuum is getting all the way across by starting the engine and letting it idle for a few seconds to build up vacuum, then, in Park, setting the emergency brake.  When you shift out of Park, the emergency brake should release automatically.  If it does not, you have a vacuum problem under the dashboard.

The P0171 and P0174 probably means that you have a vacuum leak, or that your air filter element is clogged.

The rest may not mean anything; ignore them for now.

If you have been having minor overheating problems, check the radiator for leaves clogging the air flow.  The thing in front of the A/C condenser is the power steering cooler; clean the leaves out of it too.

If the coolant hasn't been changed in the last four years (red antifreeze) or two years if green antifreeze has been in the car since it was last flushed, change the coolant.


CTS-V_Dashboard.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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When I changed the water pump and thermostat I flushed the coolant and made sure to use dexicool (the red stuff). No overheating since I fixed it. She was leaking really bad. I wasn't able to drive home from work without needing to refill the coolant. But no more leaks and fresh coolant.

Ok how do I fix the air mix door if the vacuum is fine?

As for the break sticking I put a brand new caliper on there and made sure to put the grease on. So it is most likely the flexible line. As for wear sensor I know it's got that little metal clip but that's it.

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I tested the vacuum. The emergency break released as soon as I put her in gear. That's cool I didn't know she could do that lol.

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Ceramic pads are the WAY to go IMO, I like ceramic pads :)

Nothing personal BUT I'm always curious when someone says they applied grease to brakes. Where exactly did you apply the grease? What kind of grease did you apply?

Did you only replace the pads on one side?

How did you collapse the rear caliper piston? Did you align the piston notch with the brake pad raised "bump". Did you adjust the parking brake after you finished assembly of the pads, caliper support, caliper and the brake line? Is the brake line and the flexible hose secured into the bracket?

Raise the rear wheel that is making the noise and spin the tire and wheel, does it make the noise turning the tire by hand? Pull the rear wheel and inspect the backing plate and make sure it is NOT contacting the rotor. Make sure there is not a rock or something lodged between the rotor and the backing plate


THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!!

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It's good that you solved the coolant issue and you did well by using DexCool or equivalent.

After driving the car, walk around the car and see if any of the wheels are warm (or hot), indicating a dragging brake.  That will pinpoint the wheel to look at.

The vacuum comes through the firewall behind the glove compartment.  If you have good vacuum all the way to the emergency brake release and have a B1341, then the temperature control door is sticking.  You need to find that door and check to see if something is catching in the external mechanism.  If not, either the electrically controlled vacuum actuator is sticking (most likely) or the door itself is sticking.  If it's the door, you might be able to free it up by hand.  The actuator might be limbered up but if it's sticking you will likely need to replace it eventually for the problem to go away for good.


CTS-V_Dashboard.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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24 minutes ago, OldCadTech said:

Ceramic pads are the WAY to go IMO, I like ceramic pads :)

Nothing personal BUT I'm always curious when someone says they applied grease to brakes. Where exactly did you apply the grease? What kind of grease did you apply?

Did you only replace the pads on one side?

How did you collapse the rear caliper piston? Did you align the piston notch with the brake pad raised "bump". Did you adjust the parking brake after you finished assembly of the pads, caliper support, caliper and the brake line? Is the brake line and the flexible hose secured into the bracket?

Raise the rear wheel that is making the noise and spin the tire and wheel, does it make the noise turning the tire by hand? Pull the rear wheel and inspect the backing plate and make sure it is NOT contacting the rotor. Make sure there is not a rock or something lodged between the rotor and the backing plate

Ok I put the grease on the part of the side of the pad that sits in the metal bracket. I do not know the type it came with the pads.

I just used a c clamp to compress it. The bump is aligned.I do not know how to adjust all that.yes the hoses are secure.

I know without a doubt it is the passenger rear. When I did the breaks I made sure absolutely nothing is touching the rotor. I did the breaks because it was making that sound.

Since you brought it up I'm thinking she is in need of adjustment.... but like I said I don't know how. Also with that rubber hose and the possible corrosion I am thinking of changing that.

 

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13 minutes ago, Cadillac Jim said:

You need to find that door and check to see if something is catching in the external mechanism.  If not, either the electrically controlled vacuum actuator is sticking (most likely) or the door itself is sticking.  If it's the door, you might be able to free it up by hand.  The actuator might be limbered up but if it's sticking you will likely need to replace it eventually for the problem to go away for good.

Ok where would that be?? Around what area. I'm thinking it's that thing behind the glove compartment? 

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9 minutes ago, Banj said:

Ok where would that be?? Around what area. I'm thinking it's that thing behind the glove compartment? 

There is a controller under the dashboard but to the left of the glove compartment.  Without going to the factory shop manual I couldn't tell you whether it is best reached from the passenger side or the driver's side, but I believe that it is on the passenger side.  Look for the box with a wiring connector on it with several wires; that is the A/C controller.  It has a module inside that talks to the A/C controls and tells the fan and  air control doors what to do.


CTS-V_Dashboard.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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I heard that running repeated hot to cold a few times followed by repeated heat to defrost gets the vent doors free by working them to extremes.  It makes sense, but I never tried it myself.  Sorry for stepping in, but it might be worth a try.

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Ok I was just driving home and the check engine light popped on its the ACM B1341

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The temperature control doors are not vacuum controlled.

They are electric actuators. They are located behind the glove compartment. I just went through it on my 97 Deville. Was blowing cold on the left and normal on the right.

The lower is accessed by removing the hush panel on the passenger side. The upper is accessed by removing the glovebox insert. My lower one failed.

A easy tip though is to disconnect the battery. Let it sit for a few minutes. Now hook it up, turn the key on (without starting engine)

Most important step. Let it sit without touching anything for 1 minute. After one minute recycle the key and see if it works properly. That will relearn all of the actuator positions.

As for your Air ride issue it is very likely that your exhaust valve in the Air ride compressor is corroded and it is either stuck open (very likely) or stuck shut. (back end would be jacked high in this case). I have 2 97s right now.

Have had a 96, 97, and a 01 eldo, 96 Deville, etc...

Pretty well been through it all. I love them. Otherwise I would not own them

This pic is a before pic of my Deville. the current picture is alot better as I have been hard at work restoring it to its proper glory

1119150911a.jpg


GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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When you compressed the piston with the c-clamp did you have the parking brake lever off?

Raise and support the Rt-rear with jack stands and spin the tire by hand. You will need to crawl under the vehicle so MAKE SURE IT IS SECURE :excl::excl:

10 hours ago, Banj said:

However it squeaks even while driving. If I turn it stops.

If the noise goes away when turning it is probably a hub assembly The weight transfer during turning takes some of the load off the bearing. If you put a long skinny screwdriver handle against your ear and the blade end on the back side of the hub you will be able to hear the noise better. If it is the hub assembly making the noise, hold onto your wallet when you look up the cost. Avoid the CHEAP made in China garbage hubs ( esp on E-bay) or you'll be doing the hub again before you want to.

You will have to disassemble the brakes again on the rt-rear if you replace the hub.

The rear parking brake adjustment is not difficult to do but it will be a lot of typing to try & explain it, so let me know what you find.


THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!!

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Ok I will attempt to locate the door and check for obstructions. And try disconnecting the battery. And eventually Jack her up to see if it is the hub. That is what I was thinking it was.

I have been attempting to post pictures but it keeps saying the file is too large

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16 hours ago, OldCadTech said:

When you compressed the piston with the c-clamp did you have the parking brake lever off?

Raise and support the Rt-rear with jack stands and spin the tire by hand. You will need to crawl under the vehicle so MAKE SURE IT IS SECURE :excl::excl:

If the noise goes away when turning it is probably a hub assembly The weight transfer during turning takes some of the load off the bearing. If you put a long skinny screwdriver handle against your ear and the blade end on the back side of the hub you will be able to hear the noise better. If it is the hub assembly making the noise, hold onto your wallet when you look up the cost. Avoid the CHEAP made in China garbage hubs ( esp on E-bay) or you'll be doing the hub again before you want to.

You will have to disassemble the brakes again on the rt-rear if you replace the hub.

The rear parking brake adjustment is not difficult to do but it will be a lot of typing to try & explain it, so let me know what you find.

Just to be clear, the rear piston is not to be compressed with a c clamp.  It requires the special notched tool or pliers, and the piston is screwed back to go inside the caliper.  This is to support the emergency brake.  The fronts can. Be pushed back in with a clamp or the caliper tool.

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Oh crap really. Another special tool. But the end of my c clamp has a swivel thing on it. Maybe that worked.... I hope

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You could use a Factory Shop Manual (FSM).  They are pricey new but cheap on eBay and such.  They will pay for themselves the first time you use them by telling you about things like the rear brakes and how to deal with the emergency brake.  Special tools, if you really do need one, are often available for loan or rent from Caddyinfo people, and can sometimes be found on eBay at good prices.


CTS-V_Dashboard.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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If you compressed the rear calipers with c clamps they are now junk.

The correct tool is under 10 dollars. And it can be substituted with a nice pair of needle nose pliers.

the calipers are released by turning the piston until it retracts.

The setup is actually the best dual brake setup I have seen yet. Very reliable.

Also to date I have never changed a rear hub assembly on any cadillac unless it was hit or hit something on the corner in question.

the fronts on the other hand are common and typically howl when they fail

 


GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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