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On 2017-6-21 at 5:24 PM, BodybyFisher said:

Good photos, I like how you are keeping related parts together. 

Did you drop the engine and trans from the bottom?

What is the big steel frame with the wheels being used for?, lifting?

Thanks :) Yes, taking out the block was actually easy once it was next to fully disassembled haha, we should have listened and taken out the block from starters, but hey, we dutch are hard-headed haha.. To anybody reading this in the future: yes, taking out the engine IS the way to go :)

The yellow car is what we call a pomp-wagen, i think it translates simply as a pallet truck, the brown square frame on wheels is like a frame on wheels that has a  winch on to it can be used to move around or take out anything substantially heavy, it was used to take out the engine of a speedboad and even to hold up a steel roof over the local chicken coup hahaha

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Babylon if you have any questions let me know. I sent you a list of stuff to complete the job but sometimes its easy to go overboard once you get the car torn apart. I have been working on these cars as long or longer than Jake. It's getting to the point where everyone is working on these engines now and they are not too difficult to work on once you get them out of the car.  

Edited by barczy01

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Thanks @barczy01 yes, we've combined your list and the one we made.. haha, dont know if it surprises you, but we're so happy about prices of parts... you would not believe the price for parts here, it's crazy... the idea of buying an oilfilter on sale for a dollar is... well.. it doesnt excist here hahaha.. all thanks very much for your help, i'll keep y'all posted!

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Parts for these cars are EXTREMELY AFFORDABLE!! Just shop around.

Edited by barczy01

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I absolutely agree @barczy01.. I just wish our tax system wasnt as screwed up the way it is.. It's not a big issue when you order a few items from the US or China, but since we get double taxed (import tax over the value of the goods PLUS shipment, and sales tax over the value of the goods PLUS shipment PLUS import tax!) the surprise bill from our government  doesnt allow for too much shopping around :( National shipping the US is cheap and sometimes even free, but once the goods need to be dragged overseas all of a sudden a lot of ties and suits need to be payed so it seems because 100,- for a little box with no weight is nothing.. and that shipment will be ((100x1.3)x1.21))= 160,- and that's just shipment.. but a headlight for say 120,- and an 80,- starter motor, from 2 stores, it's only a 200,- order.. maybe to get it delivered local, it will be 230,- and that's it. 

Before it's here, it  will be 120,- + 100,- shipping = 220, add 30% import tax, comes to 286 and add sales tax 21% = 346. The startermotor will be 80+100=180, add 30% makes 234 plus sales tax 21% = 283. So once ups ring the bell the headlight and starter come down to a nice 630,-..

But on the bright side, Holland is the smalles country in Europe and we contribute the most money to projects in the European Union and we can only afford that, because my headlight and starter motor 3x the price of what it would cost to buy it in the States...

:hatsoff:

 

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So... put some new pictures up at  http://s1152.photobucket.com/user/cadillac_northstar/library/?sort=3&page=1   

we found that this gasket is als leaking, its part of the steering system, but does anybody know how this thingemejigger is called? :) it made the steering fluid leak away and it's deteriorated, but I have no clue how to search for it, the rest of the stearing systems seems to be perfectly fine!

 

 

gasket.jpg

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That IS the steering rack, A REAL PITA to change in the car but not on the floor like that picture shows. Get a rebuilt unit, NOT worth messing with the seals, even if they were available, which I doubt.... 


THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!!

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Ouch... so I would be needing something like this: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4985907&cc=1379875&jsn=407 ?

It really looks like it's only the rubber ring that goes into the slit that is most visible in the picture, it was very clear that it was right there where fluids leaked.. are you sure just an o-ring won't do the job?

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Exactly --> :shaka:or        :wipetears    depending on cost + shipping.....

You MIGHT be able to find an o-ring BUT, with the rack out like that it's not going to be worth the hassle, especially if it leaks someplace else after you get it back in the car. You can get some reman units pretty reasonable but your parts situation isn't normal either. If the rack has been operated with low fluid or dirty fluid it will fail soon anyway, my opinion is replace it now.

Measure the old rack length and set the new one up as close to that same side to side length as you can. Be sure the rack is centered when you measure though. after the engine is back in the vehicle be sure to purge all the air out of the rack. To do this - have both front wheels off the ground, ENGINE OFF, fill the reservoir to the normal operating level, turn steering wheel slowly from lock to lock position 3 - 5 times watch the level in the reservoir and keep it "full", when bubbles stop, top off the reservoir again and start the engine. The fluid level in the reservoir will drop so top it off and repeat the lock to lock step above with the engine running.


THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!!

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Easy to change out of the car and get 2 outer tie rods too. 

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I got it wrong, cuz I didnt see it myself, so I misunderstood, it's this rubber that has been leaking:

20170630_164410_zpsol7pzsmp.jpg

20170630_164418_zpswvxzt2zf.jpg

But I guess we'll replace the whole rack, the rubber inside is absolutely rock hard, nothing rubbery anymore haha.. 
It is pretty clear tho were it was leaking..
20170630_164349_zpsuwjgm8vw.jpg

 

20170630_164325_zpsqvqtkp4w.jpg

So on the rack, what do you suggest, since it would be near impossible to trade the old one in, would you say buy new or refurbished? Why is it anyway that new seems cheaper than refurbished without the trade-in? We dont have that system here, so I dont fully understand the concept of it I guess :)

And again I'm lost in translation, as to what this thingie is called, I mean the rubber, it's done for...It located on the frame that rests the block, the left corner shows a part of the lower rack.. 

I'm so happy with you guys giving me the pointers, I seriously thank you all for assisting me with his, very much appreciated!!

(btw, updated the photobucket again with a few pics: http://s1152.photobucket.com/user/cadillac_northstar/library/?sort=3&page=1 )

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It's called a pinion input shaft seal. Maybe it is the picture quality but the shaft seal area and the bearing contact surface on the shaft looks very worn, so I doubt if a new seal would reseal that shaft anyway.

When you see a new rack assembly for less than reman units they are usually knock-offs and are of poor quality. People don't sell GM "NEW" racks for less than reman.

https://www.carid.com/2002-cadillac-deville-steering-parts/a1-cardone-hydraulic-rack-and-pinion-assembly-35547405.html

Edited by OldCadTech

THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!!

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that last picture is the swaybar link.

It has 2. one on each side of the bar.

 


GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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By the way, you do know not to let that steering wheel turn while the engine and steering rack is out of the vehicle - right?

Damages the air bag clock spring in the column....


THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!!

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@OldCadTech Brilliant, thanks for the exploded view! And about the steering wheel: MANY thanks for that, i've passed it on to my friend working on the car with great urgence, i dont know if he knows, i certainly didnt! About the rack, i think i will just order it @ rockauto it feels rather safe and they have refurbished as well, but what's the difference to a new one? is it better to buy refurbished cuz at first glance it looks more expensive...

@rockfangd swaybar link, i'm sure i would not have come up with that hahaha, thanks man.. so i will need a set of swaybar link rubbers than, let's try and look that up at rockauto.. Thanks!!

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The refurbished or remanufactured units are the ones that people trade in. They completely disassemble them, throw away what they can't re-use and  replace seals etc to make them "like new" again and they are considerably less money than new. Rebuilding one takes special tools and is best left to the companies that do it for a living. If you had to buy the replacement parts individually it would cost you more to rebuild one than to buy one new. They buy their parts in bulk and can do it for less.


THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!!

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4 minutes ago, OldCadTech said:

The refurbished or remanufactured units are the ones that people trade in. They completely disassemble them, throw away what they can't re-use and  replace seals etc to make them "like new" again and they are considerably less money than new. Rebuilding one takes special tools and is best left to the companies that do it for a living. If you had to buy the replacement parts individually it would cost you more to rebuild one than to buy one new. They buy their parts in bulk and can do it for less.

yes, upon better glance, remanufactured is roughly half price... which would you pick, @OldCadTechhttps://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/cadillac,2002,deville,4.6l+v8,1379875,steering,rack+and+pinion+complete+unit,7388

or should i look elsewhere? the problem is shipment and payment, apart from the fact i want to order from a reliable company... 

btw, what's the 'hearse conversion deal, will that not fit my sedan?

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I would do the Ac Delco or Cardone of those choices.

Check out some other online sites and compare prices and shipping

 


THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!!

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2 minutes ago, OldCadTech said:

I would do the Ac Delco or Cardone of those choices.

 

but than the ones that say exc. hearse or limo conversion right? dont see how they would be different but i guess they are haha..  And remanufactured would be good than, right?

I'm very sceptic about other sites.. i've read too many horror stories and with us it's even worse, so many companies that simply dont even exist but online, here i would relatively simple check their existance  but it will be hard to go there and reclaim my payment if they dont supply.. its not hard to do some research on an online store, but stll, it's on the other side of the globe from us.. but it's weekend so, let's google till we drop :)

Can't say thank you enough :)

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Definitely not hearse or limo..

If you don't have blisters on your typing finger, keep searching :)

Reman is what I would buy if it was me.

 

Edited by OldCadTech

THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!!

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HaHa, sounds like my hours...

Night ...


THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!!

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the kits come with bushings, bolts and all. 

Do yourself a favor and go with the polys.

Moog has good ones. Blue bushings


GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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