Bruce Nunnally

Project: 1939 Jaguar SS100 Replica Classic Roadsters, LTD. "Duke"

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Unless you can discern the original water line hookup to the 32/36 DGAV, perhaps you should get a 32/36 DGEV, an exact replacement for what you have.


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-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Spent the morning gathering parts and replaced front rotors, bearings, and brake pads.

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Took these to Plano O'Reilly's to try to find out what they came from. The Verdict? 79 Pinto.

And Yes, they had 2 in stock!

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I got a smoosh tool to drive grease into the bearings. (a luxury)

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Took 2 trips to get everything -- I put on the rotors while they got the pads trucked in.

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Car is back on the road and brakes properly. Now I need to determine where the springs came from since they all need replacement.


Bruce

2016 Cadillac ATS-V gray/black; 2013 Cadillac ATS 2L Turbo Premium (Wife's)

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I would start with 1979 Pinto.


CTS-V_Dashboard.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Leaf springs are characterized by width, then front eye centerline to center along the spring (A), and center to back eye centerline along the spring (B)

The PInto Sedan is 2.5" wide x A=19 3/4 x B=28 3/4"

The Roadster rear leaf springs are 2.5" wide x A=19 3/4 x B=23" I have not found any direct match yet.


Bruce

2016 Cadillac ATS-V gray/black; 2013 Cadillac ATS 2L Turbo Premium (Wife's)

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My dad's business made and repaired leaf springs until he died in 1969. I never heard of them ordering a new leaf spring from anyone. They kept leaf spring stock in huge rolls and cut it to size. They had a machine that rolled the ends into eyes, and they pressed bushings in the rolled ends. The curvature was adjusted with a hammer and special anvil. Trucks still use leaf springs so even when the car leaf spring business tapered off because cars went to coils at all four corners, they had a steady business in replacing cracked leaf springs for trucks. Big trucks. Huge trucks.

One of the measures that they took to solve the wheel hop problem in my 1941 Chevrolet Special Deluxe two-door sedan was to add a couple of leaves to the rear springs.

If you bring in a Roadster leaf spring to such a shop, they will be able to repair it or duplicate it as appropriate. Your specs, along with leaf thickness and number of leaves, may be enough, but if you want to match the spring rate over the entire suspension travel you really need to bring in the spring because the lengths of the short leaves determines the way the spring rate varies as the spring bends. Bring them both in, or just bring in the car, and you can be sure it will be level and the springs will match because they will do the identical operations on each spring and they will match exactly any leaves that they replace.

Coil springs are another matter. They are characterized, as you know, by length, diameter, and spring rate. There are a variety of vendors that will supply springs from that spec, or by make and model. If all you have is length and diameter, you may have to try a couple of candidates before you find the right one.


CTS-V_Dashboard.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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I would love to just drive in and get new ones cut but the only offer for custom springs has been $215 each from suspensionking.com

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Over to Pronto Muffler in Plano for a new exhaust this morning

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The old exhaust was rusty, and 3 different pipe sizes from front to back.

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We used a Borla 2.5" in/out muffler with custom piping to the back and new hangers

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I chose a pencil tip as most period correct.

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I am happy with the result, the price was reasonable, the service was quick, and I recommend Pronto for exhaust work.

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Bruce

2016 Cadillac ATS-V gray/black; 2013 Cadillac ATS 2L Turbo Premium (Wife's)

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I would love to just drive in and get new ones cut but the only offer for custom springs has been $215 each from suspensionking.com

Buying a whole new spring is like buying a new alternator. You can do it but you are better off fixing yours or, if it is smoked, getting an exchange rebuild.

Can Pronto direct you to a spring repair shop? My dad's shop would re-arch springs on older cars to level them, replace broken main leafs, and such. There are shops that offer this service for the many vehicles out there that use leaf springs, such as off-road vehicles, trucks, and even the Corvette uses a leaf spring in the rear. No coil spring can offer the combination of suspension travel and variable-rate performance of a leaf spring and there are still lots of vehicles that use them. In fact, coil-only vehicles are pretty much the pavement-only light and medium duty vehicles that don't carry variable loads. The shops that you find will deal primarily with off-road vehicles and trucks, so look for them.


CTS-V_Dashboard.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Bruce... call Champion Spring in Ft Worth...

I used to have the springs fixed there when I had BIG trucks.

They used to do really good work... I don't know how they are NOW...


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Thanks Jim. I will call and see if they want to look at it. They theoretically could sell me new springs, fittings for the springs, shocks front

and back. Our theory is that the right rear leaf twist and walking on its bracket is what I am feeling with the car 'winding up' and unwinding

on acceleration / off.

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New carb arrived. got the old carb off and on the table, and moved the throttle linkage over to the new carb. Lots of pictures but my phone

is on life-support recharge.

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Discovered a previous owner had used the wrong thread pitch bolts on the carb posts -- part of the problem we saw with them not tightened properly.

They were the right inner diameter but the wrong thread pitch.

Back to hardware store earlier to get new posts and a thread chaser die. Back to the store next to get more proper thread pitch bolts.

Turns out they used standard bolts instead of metric bolts. Doh. Chased the post threads, replaced 2 posts.

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New carter electric fuel pump also here, and tempting to toss it on at the same time, but probably best to put on the carb, hear it run with current fuel setup,

the swap the fuel pump. Then ANOTHER oil change and we'll how it does.


Bruce

2016 Cadillac ATS-V gray/black; 2013 Cadillac ATS 2L Turbo Premium (Wife's)

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I would love to just drive in and get new ones cut but the only offer for custom springs has been $215 each from suspensionking.com

Buying a whole new spring is like buying a new alternator. You can do it but you are better off fixing yours or, if it is smoked, getting an exchange rebuild.

Can Pronto direct you to a spring repair shop? My dad's shop would re-arch springs on older cars to level them, replace broken main leafs, and such. There are shops that offer this service for the many vehicles out there that use leaf springs, such as off-road vehicles, trucks, and even the Corvette uses a leaf spring in the rear. No coil spring can offer the combination of suspension travel and variable-rate performance of a leaf spring and there are still lots of vehicles that use them. In fact, coil-only vehicles are pretty much the pavement-only light and medium duty vehicles that don't carry variable loads. The shops that you find will deal primarily with off-road vehicles and trucks, so look for them.

The right rear spring has been damaged, so I am keen to start over with the leaf springs.

Pronto might be willing to source and fix for me -- they do a lot of repair work not just mufflers-- but didn't offer to do so this morning.


Bruce

2016 Cadillac ATS-V gray/black; 2013 Cadillac ATS 2L Turbo Premium (Wife's)

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On the WeberCarbsOnline web site, they warn against some conversions without a fuel pump mod because the Weber 32/36 DGEV/DGAV is designed for 3.5 psi and too much fuel pressure is a problem. Unless the electric fuel pump has adjustable pressure or is less than 4.5 psi at no flow, the stock fuel pump is probably best.


CTS-V_Dashboard.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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The issue is the new mechanical pump may be leaking fuel into the oil already.

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The pump diaphrams were not designed for ethanol additive in the gas. Going to a low pressure electric removes that possibility.

Make sure that your fuel delivery is right. You cannot tune carbs that do not have adequate and proper fuel delivery, as it is critical to the proper performance of any Weber carb. From your basic 32/36 DGV to a set of triple side-draft carbs, all Weber carbs rely on a stable and full float bowl in order to mix the fuel and air correctly. Mechanical pumps very rarely do this. They pulse fuel instead of giving a smooth even delivery, and the amount of fuel varies with engine RPM.

A good electric fuel pump will provide the best performance and a stable supply of fuel for tuning your Weber carb. It should be noted that Weber carbs work best at 4 psi, not 2 psi, like many of the older books state. You also need a pump that will supply an adequate volume of fuel, not just pressure, as volume is what's needed to keep the float bowl full under periods of high demand. As such, we recommend a high volume, low pressure pump, that delivers 60-75 GPH at 4-5 psi. The Carter 4070, which is a rotary pump, is an excellent choice. This pump does not need, and should not use, a fuel pressure regulator for any reason. Weber/Redline also makes a good fuel pump. In any case, make sure you use a high quality pump, rather than a cheap one.

Read more: http://www.classicinlines.com/WeberTune.asp


Bruce

2016 Cadillac ATS-V gray/black; 2013 Cadillac ATS 2L Turbo Premium (Wife's)

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I ordered 79 Pinto front springs from O'Reilly's on the risk that they were not right, and they arrived. I ran over and got more specific tools --

a set of deep standard sockets, a breaker bar, a shock removal tool (which I broke), and O'Reilly's had front shocks in stock for a 79 Pinto!

I think it is more fun to call them Mustang II shocks/springs/brakes/etc and the factory version of these had the Mustang II engines / trans, which

was a 2.3L Cologne V6 or optional 2.8L Cologne V6.

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New springs arrived

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unbolted inner arm

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Old shock out

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New springs (left) vs old springs (right). Old one clearly has lost a coil.

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Finally got the arm unbolted and free; I likely did it the hard / wrong way but the coil is out


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New coil ready to be ratcheted into place, then new shock inserted. I think the way I undid the arm it will be tricky to dance it all back together but we'll see.

The upper silencer fell apart, so I will need to get a new one from O'Reilly's and that ended our fun for tonight.


Bruce

2016 Cadillac ATS-V gray/black; 2013 Cadillac ATS 2L Turbo Premium (Wife's)

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I suspect that the way the old spring "lost a coil" was someone lowering the car. That's probably what's wrong with the rear springs, too.


CTS-V_Dashboard.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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I suspect that the way the old spring "lost a coil" was someone lowering the car. That's probably what's wrong with the rear springs, too.

Yes.

I don't see a good way to get the lower control arm inner bolt+bushing back lined up. I think I will have to reverse course, take the spring back out,

disconnect the three things on the outer end of the lower control arm, then reconnect the inner end of the lower control arm.

Then I can replace the spring, and jack the outer end of the lower control arm up into place so I can re-attach the 3 things I want to remove next.

Hmm -- this manual for pinto/bobcat seems to say do what I have done except disconnect the sway bar, and be sure the car is on the ground before you try to leverage the lower control arm back into place.

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The lower control arm bushing needs to be replaced, but I am not clear how to do that either.

I have ordered the 80 Pinto shop manual and a 81/82 Corolla shop manual, and I'll keep adding whatever-car-parts-we-find manuals as I go.


Bruce

2016 Cadillac ATS-V gray/black; 2013 Cadillac ATS 2L Turbo Premium (Wife's)

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It's been a lot of years since I worked summers at my dad's shop, and I don't recall watching them R&R A-frames and such that require removing the springs, but I do recall a tool, a spring compressor, that was used to contain the spring. It's a double hook with a long turnbuckle. You use two or three of them on a coil spring at a time. On an extended spring, you hook the end pieces on coils near the ends and turn the turnbuckles together to compress the spring. You assemble the spring and A-frames, then release the turnbuckles and remove the tools.

Here's an example from Amazon:

CLICK HERE

This OTC 7045B installs in the shock absorber space inside the spring. They want $146.51 for it, and it's Amazon Prime (free shipping if you have Amazon Prime). Here's a tool like I remember from the 1950's that has hooks, and comes in sets of two:

CLICK HERE

This TEKTON 5737 has hooks, two per end piece so you need only two per spring. It's intended for strut assembly and there may not be room for it inside a SLA suspension, but it's only $20.37. Here's another one intended for use inside the spring:

CLICK HERE

This TEKTON 5734 has a turnbuckle that is used inside the spring, and the end fixtures with the hooks are inside the spring, not outside. It goes for $45 on Amazon.

I don't recommend trying to push the A-frame back into place without a spring compressor for safety reasons. If you can't rent a spring compressor, perhaps taking the car to a Goodyear shop or any other place that does front suspension disassembly/assembly might be a good idea.


CTS-V_Dashboard.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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The spring is ok so far but yes if all else fails a spring compressor. The shop manual says not needed.

I got the bolt off the sway bar, but can't pull the screw out as it is under pressure. Tried removing the sway bar bushings to help relieve it and the bolts broke off. New task for later - drill out bolts and replace.

Almost got the lower a arm inner bushing in place, but not close enough to slide bolt home. Next studying sway bars more.


Bruce

2016 Cadillac ATS-V gray/black; 2013 Cadillac ATS 2L Turbo Premium (Wife's)

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Well, all of the spring compressors look like a real pain to use, particularly when getting it on or off while the spring is inside the suspension. If the shop manual says "not needed," then there should be a procedure in that shop manual that tells how to assemble the SLA suspension with coil spring without a spring compressor. If not, I would consider renting one.


CTS-V_Dashboard.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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I think I see the way to disconnect the sway bar and will attack that next. With it off hopefully the a arm will slide back into place. then I can pop the shock in, bolt together various bits, and start on the other side.

We think we are mustang/pinto:

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Okay, I am failing at figuring out something simple here? The shop manual says undo the nut at the top, but what I have

looks like a flat hexagon with a rivet in it -- is that an actual nut?


Bruce

2016 Cadillac ATS-V gray/black; 2013 Cadillac ATS 2L Turbo Premium (Wife's)

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From the diagram, that big flat hex thing is a nut that screws on to the link assembly, which is the "rivet." The large hex head is there to provide the outside pad for the upper bushing. It un-screws. I would use a little penetrating oil on the "rivet" (keep it off the rubber, unless you have new bushings).


CTS-V_Dashboard.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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the stabilizer bar link broke in two when I finally got a 1.25" boxed end wrench on it. But that cleared that problem.

I went back early to O'Reilly's Auto parts and got an 'internal' spring compressor, and compressed the spring and jacked the a-arm and almost not quite got the hole aligned with the bushing.

Then as I tried to horse it into place the a-arm came off the jack (again) and I had to start over. Rinse, repeat. On the 3rd try the spring compressor also released, luckily the spring

stayed on the a-arm.

I am going with plan B and either have a mechanic come here and install the coil springs or trailer the Roadster to a mechanic. I have changed my mind about wanting to learn more about coil spring installation lol.


Bruce

2016 Cadillac ATS-V gray/black; 2013 Cadillac ATS 2L Turbo Premium (Wife's)

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the stabilizer bar link broke in two when I finally got a 1.25" boxed end wrench on it. But that cleared that problem.

I went back early to O'Reilly's Auto parts and got an 'internal' spring compressor, and compressed the spring and jacked the a-arm and almost not quite got the hole aligned with the bushing.

Then as I tried to horse it into place the a-arm came off the jack (again) and I had to start over. Rinse, repeat. On the 3rd try the spring compressor also released, luckily the spring

stayed on the a-arm.

I am going with plan B and either have a mechanic come here and install the coil springs or trailer the Roadster to a mechanic.

I have changed my mind about wanting to learn more about coil spring installation lol.

I know it is frustrating and not really funny at all... but that statement is funny all the same... LOL :)


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At a certain point you realize you prefer your health to paying someone to do this job. After several events that any of which could have been disastrous and 4 days at it(?)

I have learned that springs and I prefer a professional touch. Now have to sort out whether it is going back on a trailer or I can get someone to come here and R&R


Bruce

2016 Cadillac ATS-V gray/black; 2013 Cadillac ATS 2L Turbo Premium (Wife's)

Follow me on: Twitter Instagram Youtube

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