Cadillac CTS-V Stealth Blue or Silver Frost Matte-er

[Bruce Nunnally]

I would be more excited with a special run of 575hp CTS-Vs or a set with the race car wraps, but Cadillac has released some special colors for the 2013 edition of the current generation V’s. The CTS-V may soldier on for 2014 alongside the new 2014 redesigned CTS, then bow in 2015? We’ll see.

Read More: http://caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-cts-v-colored-matte-er/

[REDROCKET]

Neither color excites me, but it could just be the black wheels. In my humble opinion, any exterior color looks better with the polished rims. If the current "V" bows out in 2015 then we have the #1 Caddy Classic (another humble opinion!) - just sayin... D.

[cdgrinci]

I've got to 'side' with RedRocket; don't care for black (dark) wheels. Put some polished (or even painted silver) and I'd be happier; then either color would be all right with me.

[Z15]

I got a email newsletter from Cadillac on these new paint options for the V (have a CTS) and they are a pita to take car of. Basically you can never touch the car or wash it or you will ruin the finish and good luck finding anyone to repair it.

You cannot ever rub on the finish, can only wash in a touchless car wash and MUST not use anything but soap and water. if hand wash only wash in one straight line direction or the finish will be ruined.

[Bruce Nunnally]

We hear that the 2014 Cadillac CTS-V may be powered by a new, force-fed V-8 based on the new Corvette’s LT1 engine. A final decision hasn’t been made, but we’re told GM is working on a twin-turbo design and a supercharged design, and one of them will be featured in the next CTS-V. The engine may also serve in the upcoming rear-drive flagship.

Speaking of the V-series and forced induction, we’re told the ATS-V is also on track, and we’ve confirmed it will be packing the new twin-turbo V-6 that’s been spotted in prototypes. But V-8 fans shouldn’t despair, because the ATS was designed with room for a V-8 as big as the 7.0-liter Corvette Z06’s; that plan isn’t dead. Some kind of ATS-V “plus” could feature V-8 power, possibly at the end of the first-gen ATS’ lifecycle as a special model. Shown here and in the gallery below is a rendering of what a Cadillac ATS-V sedan might look like.

Read more: http://wot.motortrend.com/we-hear-next-cadillac-cts-v-to-get-force-fed-lt1-engine-cts-coupe-wagon-future-uncertain-328909.html#ixzz2L634oGQn

[REDROCKET]

I've got to 'side' with RedRocket; don't care for black (dark) wheels. Put some polished (or even painted silver) and I'd be happier; then either color would be all right with me.

YouKnowDasRight!

[airmike]

I've got to 'side' with RedRocket; don't care for black (dark) wheels. Put some polished (or even painted silver) and I'd be happier; then either color would be all right with me.

YouKnowDasRight!

what they said !!

[Cadillac Jim]

I don't care what color anything is. Preferences? Sleeper! Can I have mine trimmed and badged like a DHL?

[REDROCKET]

Hi Jim, please pardon my ignorance of most things computer but I don't know how to give you a link. HOWEVER, if you go to "You Tube Videos" and enter "09-12 CTS-V dome light LED installation" you will see the video that definitely helped me. In the vid he mentions that the LED lights are "slightly" taller than the OEM bulbs - this is somewhat of an understatement. The LED bulbs prevent the clear lens cover from properly seating but this is not a problem, just screw the light assemblies back into the plastic headliner so the cover seats evenly in the plastic housing (don't over tighten). The LED bulb will be in contact with the clear lens but they do not get hot so they will not burn the lens. Here is what is not covered in the video - since the clear lens is no longer flush, the light assy. doesn't seat fully. This pulls the dome light on-off button away from the on-off switch slightly (not a problem, the button still turns the dome light on and off). What does happen is since the switch is not fully seated against the push buttons, the buttons (there are four, one for each dome light front and rear) could now produce an interior rattle (I HATE RATTLES!). To eliminate this I used some of the thicker (approx. 1/4" thick) adheasive backed felt pads (available at Home Depot) wedged inside the push button to take up the space between switch and button. You will have to shave some of the felt thickness with a sharp knife to get just the right switch action (too thick and the push button switch will not cycle on and off, too thin and you have not gotten rid of the slop between switch and button). If this all this seems a bit involved, it really isn't, after you get the felt thickness right on your first switch, the rest are easy. You just have to assemble the light assy. into the main housing a few times to see if the switch cycles properly. The result is well worth it for the modern look you now have. I am a big fan of the slightly blue-white light color of these LEDs (I got mine thru "Carid.com"). I used white LEDs in the dome light and footwell locations (footwell lights just pop right in, no clear lens covering these) and red LEDs in the under door locations (under door lights just pop out with a small flat screw driver with plenty of room in the assembly for the increased length of the LEDs). I hope this overly long post helps your project, I now have a much better looking interior and retain the OEM push button feel to the dome light switches. Remember, drive em like you stole em!! D.

[REDROCKET]

Hi Jim, please pardon my ignorance of most things computer but I don't know how to give you a link. HOWEVER, if you go to "You Tube Videos" and enter "09-12 CTS-V dome light LED installation" you will see the video that definitely helped me. In the vid he mentions that the LED lights are "slightly" taller than the OEM bulbs - this is somewhat of an understatement. The LED bulbs prevent the clear lens cover from properly seating but this is not a problem, just screw the light assemblies back into the plastic headliner so the cover seats evenly in the plastic housing (don't over tighten). The LED bulb will be in contact with the clear lens but they do not get hot so they will not burn the lens. Here is what is not covered in the video - since the clear lens is no longer flush, the light assy. doesn't seat fully. This pulls the dome light on-off button away from the on-off switch slightly (not a problem, the button still turns the dome light on and off). What does happen is since the switch is not fully seated against the push buttons, the buttons (there are four, one for each dome light front and rear) could now produce an interior rattle (I HATE RATTLES!). To eliminate this I used some of the thicker (approx. 1/4" thick) adheasive backed felt pads (available at Home Depot) wedged inside the push button to take up the space between switch and button. You will have to shave some of the felt thickness with a sharp knife to get just the right switch action (too thick and the push button switch will not cycle on and off, too thin and you have not gotten rid of the slop between switch and button). If this all this seems a bit involved, it really isn't, after you get the felt thickness right on your first switch, the rest are easy. You just have to assemble the light assy. into the main housing a few times to see if the switch cycles properly. The result is well worth it for the modern look you now have. I am a big fan of the slightly blue-white light color of these LEDs (I got mine thru "Carid.com"). I used white LEDs in the dome light and footwell locations (footwell lights just pop right in, no clear lens covering these) and red LEDs in the under door locations (under door lights just pop out with a small flat screw driver with plenty of room in the assembly for the increased length of the LEDs). I hope this overly long post helps your project, I now have a much better looking interior and retain the OEM push button feel to the dome light switches. Remember, drive em like you stole em!! D.

This was supposed to answer Jim's request for a link to the dome light installation vid in his other post - OOPS!

[Cadillac Jim]

The link referred to in post number 9 above is

I found it just as REDROCKET said, by using a YouTube search on "09-12 CTS-V dome light LED installation" and it was at the top of the list.

In most cases, to get a link to show in the normal text mode of posting, you just copy the URL and the forum software will recognize this and put in the link, including summarizing the text with "..." in the middle if its too long.

I think that somehow these posts got crossed over from another thread. Back to the point, my taste in daily drivers is to make them look as much like everybody else, but nice. To me, that means polished or chrome plated wheels, black brakes, wheel sizes for performance rather than style (17" or 18" but not larger), etc. I haven't used summer tires because I don't have room for an extra set of wheels with tires in my crowded garage but I use the most aggressive tire compound that doesn't require winter tires (currently Michelin Pilot Sport A/S Plus; the A/S is all-season).

And, I like a sunroof so on mild days I can open it and all the windows and have a breezy convertible-like effect.

I like cool colors like gray, bright or dark blue, blue-gray, or black, but will take white or silver if that's the only available color. Once I took Dark Cherry because that was the only car on site that was properly equipped and quickly grew to love the color. So, between Stealth Blue or Silver Frost Matte, I would prefer Stealth Blue but would take Silver Frost.

I don't understand the comment by Z15 in post number 4 above where he was advised that the special paint jobs were untenably fragile and unrepairable. That sounds like a CYA statement written by a lawyer, not something that reflects reality for an optional finish by a leading auto maker. I heard similar things about the pearlescent white and a similar red paint option ($500 to $1000 extra on a new car) but I see a lot of old cars with those colors and finishes and they look great.

[REDROCKET]

The link referred to in post number 9 above is

I found it just as REDROCKET said, by using a YouTube search on "09-12 CTS-V dome light LED installation" and it was at the top of the list.

In most cases, to get a link to show in the normal text mode of posting, you just copy the URL and the forum software will recognize this and put in the link, including summarizing the text with "..." in the middle if its too long.

Thanx Jim! D.