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The water pump belt is located on the right front of the engine, if you look over the driver side fender the left bank you will notice has a cam pulley, the water pump belt is turned by the pulley off the cam and there is a tensioner.

Here is a photo of the water pump tensioner, with a 1/4" breaker bar in it to release the tension

WaterPumpandRadiator008.jpg

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Do you have the system full of coolant??? It should be 2-1/2" below the neck of the surge tank when cold..

If the system has coolant in it, disconnect the purge line at the hollow bolt near the water pump. Start the engine and look to see if coolant is flowing from the hollow bolt. If it is, then the clog is between the hollow bolt and the surge tank.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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That's an awesoem pic thanks :)

KHE yea I've checked for a clog and nada. I haven't had the time to mess with my car since yesterday as today's the last day for my online classes and I'm still in the middle of trying to complete them. It might be tomorrow when I can take a look, but I will as soon as I can.

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Good luck with the classes and the car!!! These guys are really sticking with you

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That is what we do at Caddyinfo, while behind the scenes we bang our heads on the keyboard :lol:

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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You guys are awesome and extremely helpful. I have to agree that you really have stuck with helping me through this. THANK YOU :blush:

Now to the bad news, you know cause it's always something everyday for me. In fact yesterday my girlfriends tire blew out :wipetears That's 5 days in a row somethings gone wrong with a car!

Fast forward to today! My belt on the water pump snapped. I saw that it wasn't looking so whoopie this weekend when I checked, but I didn't think it was that bad. I was going to change it myself today but I don't have a breaker bar and Autozone / O'rielly's didn't either. I've finally broken down and have taken it to the shop. Hopefully this belt will fix the overheating. They said if it doesn't they would call and let me know before running a diagnostic. I'll post back with what the have to say and if you guys think I could replace the part myself.

Again thanks for the wonderful support! You've been the only constant besides my car problems!

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You guys are awesome and extremely helpful. I have to agree that you really have stuck with helping me through this. THANK YOU :blush:

Now to the bad news, you know cause it's always something everyday for me. In fact yesterday my girlfriends tire blew out :wipetears That's 5 days in a row somethings gone wrong with a car!

Fast forward to today! My belt on the water pump snapped. I saw that it wasn't looking so whoopie this weekend when I checked, but I didn't think it was that bad. I was going to change it myself today but I don't have a breaker bar and Autozone / O'rielly's didn't either. I've finally broken down and have taken it to the shop. Hopefully this belt will fix the overheating. They said if it doesn't they would call and let me know before running a diagnostic. I'll post back with what the have to say and if you guys think I could replace the part myself.

Again thanks for the wonderful support! You've been the only constant besides my car problems!

Ok, a breaker bar is overkill, no one has them, :lol: just find a 1/4" ratchet, a basic tool store like Harbor Freight, Sears should have one

The good news is, that its possible that this was your problem as it was beginning to go and slipping. You will need to remove the tensioner to replace the belt, its held by two bolts and the belt shroud is connected with those two bolts and a third...

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I am glad you found something very useful to your problem.

And honestly I have been working on vehicles for over 10 years, buses Diesels, and cars and out of all the tools I own a 1/4 breaker bar is not one of them. I guess if I havent needed one by now I can live without it.

I hope they check the idler pulley and tensioner good. Depending on the condition I would have the tensioner replaced. I hope your luck gets better. When it rains it pours. why we will never know.

Please post the end results we would love to find out

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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A 1/4" drive breaker bar can come in handy at times not because it is needed to break something loose but the breaker bar has a lower profile than a 1/4" ratchet which can come in handy in tight spaces.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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I'm thinking the above posts mean a 1/2" breaker bar (or ratchet), not 1/4". At least that is what is on my '11 STS. (now on the other hand, my '04 Bravada uses a 3/8")

Chuck

'19 CT6, '04 Bravada........but still lusting for that '69 Z-28

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I'm thinking the above posts mean a 1/2" breaker bar (or ratchet), not 1/4". At least that is what is on my '11 STS. (now on the other hand, my '04 Bravada uses a 3/8")

Now on the other hand, look at the photo, its a 1/4" sqaure hole in the Northstar tensioner

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Now on the other hand, look at the photo, its a 1/4" sqaure hole in the Northstar tensioner

Sorry for my mis-information (just seemed kind of light leverage on a tensioner spring); my 3.6 has the 1/2" (shouldn't have assumed), apologies.

Chuck

'19 CT6, '04 Bravada........but still lusting for that '69 Z-28

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this is just for the waterpump tensioner. very small tensioner. 1/4.

The mainn is a whole nother story

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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They said the tensioner and the water pump should be replaced, but I'm not seeing any leaks from the water pump. They were wanting $400 dollars for it so I said no :) The tensioner has no flex to it though that's what kind of scares me.

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400.00 thats nuts. I would definately replace the tensioner though if it is tight or seized

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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If the water pump belt snapped and the belt appears to be in good condition otherwise, make sure the water pump turns freely and the belt tensioner pulley turns freely. It might be possible one may be bound up and not allowing the water pump to turn. That would explain the no coolant flow and the overheating. If the water pump is not bound up, I don't think I would replace the pump.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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This is good news, check for prices at either www.rockauto.com or www.gmotors.com If the water pump turns freely and is NOT leaking don't touch it, replace the belt and tensioner and you will be good to go for probably less than $100

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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You can also buy the small pulley with bearing from a parts store for much less than the complete tensioner assembly. They will need to order it but it should be less than $15.00.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Thanks for the info guys. I'm sure I'll use it when I get the money to replace the tensioner :D

However, I ran into another issue ha ha. Go figure :( Probably more pressing too :(

I had my battery replaced cause it seemed like it was dying. Hard to start and sometimes needing a jump. After I got it replaced I'm getting the message Battery No Charge. So I went to Autozone and they said the alternator is only putting out 12.8v. I believe it's supposed to put out 14. Do you guys think this is related to the battery being replaced? It never said this until it was changed. I did a quick google search and it almost comes up as the alternator being bad, however some people said the battery caused the issue. It doesn't make sense as to why all of a sudden it's showing up after the battery being replaced. So I went ahead and pulled the codes off my car this is what they said.

These are current:

Code P10

S038

These are history:

T083

S036

A037

S044

I'm thinking I should clear them off and see if they come back, but that doesn't solve the alternator issue. I've also had the message telling me to service ride control (that's the s036 error I believe) for a long time.

Hopefully this is readable. I'm kind of out of it from all these issues :angry2:

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I would check the battery. I have seen new batteries be bad.

Also it may not be fully charged.

Check your terminals for good connection. Is the spacer in between the 2 positive terminals? are they tight?

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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I don't see any spacer between the two cables on the positive terminal. And yes they are tight.

I had the battery tested yesterday and they said it was fine. (I hope it would be since it's new)

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good you had it tested. I like rockfangd have seen new bad batteries, particularly walmart. I had to return 2 in a row and of course they had to charge em two hours to test em. third one worked fine.

Anyway, it doesn't matter how tight the bolt is if there is "crap" between the contacts. The crap will just be squished more, but still stopping the current. I would double check the positive terminal for a spacer or dirty connection. My 99 doesn't have a spacer, but my daughters 86 sure did, and it was corroded. The timing of your problem sure sounds like a connection problem.

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