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Multiple Coolant Leaks


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I love my Caddy, it's got a 145,000 and I think the water pump let go today as it just pours out (under load especially with AC on) and the temperture rockets up.

I have had this car running hot for awhile, I am still convinced that the heater core has a leak as I have peeled back the carpet and felt wet fluid down there and tasted the tip of my finger and it was sweet. I put sme Barr's in it and it seemed to hold out for a few months, now today it's purng out by the water pump. I have tried to get a good look under there and it's a tough space, it looks like a fairly simple job, (4.6l) the part is $35.00 the tool deposit is $30.

So I would love to heard advice from all you guys, I am sure your more knowledgable then me when it comes to this stuff, I have been around engines and can hold my own, but I havent really worked on one for a while. So tommorrow I will start the Water Pump replacement ( live in Florida and it is still miserable and muggy even this time of year between 11-3 so I will hopefully get agood start in the am and get moving. I have some concerns, have read abot cross over gasket failure? Would there be anyway to tell th different? When I start the car it sounds like a chainsaw running underneaththe hood at the water pump so it must be the bearig. I am pretty sure the water pump when night night.

No apparently milky oil (thank godnss) and besides the heater core problem (which I could bypass for now being am in Florida, I cant be 2/3 days without a second car. Of course this WAS my wife's car. When the caddy started getting tempermental, I got sick of hearing this doest work, or that too loud, I dont like this car (I love the car) but hd to sacrificed my 2006 Yukon Denali so my wife would have something more reliable (thats about to hit 100K) as we are expecting our 2nd child in April. She drives futhur to work then I do and the Cadillac for some reason doesnt act up for me, it usually behaves itself!

I had no problems with tha car until last year I got into a accident and the noise was replaced, after $5000 in used parts and a crummy adjuster (Florida gives insurance companies' 80% before they have to total a car (Ive been in the car usiness my whole life at one point or anoter, including holding my adjustor's license) but I was acually happy the car was fixed, but I knew in the back of my head that all those parts at 120,000 mixed with new parts I was going to have my share of problems and sure enough I have. I still cant get the license plate lights to work in the rear and I have been chasing that demon for a along time (the car has it's typical Transmission solioid and sensor faults, and the other typical things you get with this kind of mileage that I see most people deal with - dont have 1200.00 to have it fixed and dont have the time to pull it myself to do it.

Besides all this, I have to say I still love the car and while I will be putting some time into it this weekend anyone have any sugestions on other things I should look for?

I plan on replacing those drive belts behind the housing, complete flush - though I am torn between dextron an regular antifreeze and I have heard to add the barr's pellets after a flush, but I have read GM stopped rcommeding that?

I hvae a chilton's which is useless, I normally get the factory manual like I did for the Yukon, but haven't for the Caddy yet as this is the first really set of problems I have had. if you looked at the car you would think it had 50K on it, so it has its quirks and I think needs a water pump, I think I'll buy a pressure testor tomoorow (I knew I had one but I must have lost it in the move from MA)

Would appreciate any help feed back, diagrams, links, or anything, chiltons shows nothing (I should have know better) general opinons??

All help, comment, suggestions, etc would be greatly appreciated. Pardon the typos- I just wanted to get this posted and hit the bed. Thanks Paul

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Welcome to caddyinfo. Where have you been lol.

Water pump is easy.

Dont wait to get the cooling system fixed. You dont want a headgasket issue. this makes me wonder if the coolant change was overdue. Dont take offense please. Usually I only see heatercore failure when the coolant breaks down and becomes acidic.

All you do to change the waterpump is drain the coolant, remove the water pump housing and the water pump is removed and installed by the tool.

I dont know about the heatercore but I know in the 90s they werent bad at all to change. I recommend using Dexcool and following a 2 year changing cycle.

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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Thans Iaprecite that. Ihavet had this car sincex nw like the Yukon, pickedthis one upwith a 110K on it. So I have no idea what the maintance schedule on it was before I got it but everything seemed clean enough when I went through it.

Do you reccommend doing anythng else while I have the water pump off? Think I am chasing the right part down? Leaks like a facet in that area, sounds like a chainsaw under the hood?

What about replacing the drive belts and that stuff, I looked at them and they are in great shape, no cracks no wear.

Appreciate the feedback!

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I am torn between dextron an regular antifreeze and I have heard to add the barr's pellets after a flush, but I have read GM stopped rcommeding that?

Dexron is trans fluid. I suspect you meant Dex-Cool. Nothing wrong with it.

GM did quit using the sealant tabs and your car was delivered without them. I would only use them in extreme conditions (minor seepage with major work to repair).

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I would check the bearings in both tensioner assemblies and the idler pulley,

That is big.

Make sure the water pump tensioner moves freely and holds good tension. Spin the pulley and listen to the bearing. It is not unheard of for the pulley to seize up on the tensioner. Also you should replace the belt. All are easy, and can save headaches

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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OK I am kinda of new here and I am in the middle of a dilema and really need some advice.

I pulled my 2003 Deville apart today to replace the water pump after it seemingly failed and poured anti freeze everywhere and ran hot.

The car has 145K I have had for 30K of those miles, I have taken care of it, an it has been (seemingly ) taking care of by the previous owner. Has the usual problems Transmission solenoid check engine code and a few others, I am not looking to get into that repair right now as I dont have the $1200 or the 4 days it will take to do it, I am a 'shade tree' mechanic been around cars my whole life, I would give my skill set at about average, I have rebuilt engines and street rods, fixed various problems, but this is my first time on a late model cadillac so I am a little apprehensive.

I pressure tested the system (when I went to by the parts I had to rent a pressure tester as I couldnt find mine - moved to FL about 4 years ago and still have stuff in storage) so I picked up the water pump, thermostat (figured might as well change it out while I am there), got the cadillac tabs, coolant, etc.

I really had to work the tester to get to 18 psi as it would flood under the water pump, couldnt get a clear view at the leak site butit was right underneath the housing and the car sounds like a chainsaw is under the hood when running, so i am pretty sure the bearings/pump was bad/failed. I really wanted to do a reverse flush and get all the crap out of the system but didnt want to chance it with it pouring coolant and I had a really hard time keeping any pressure in the system even with the tester.

I looked around and I saw that in the corner top towards the engine compartment (where the housing meets the block), there is a hissing and some bubbling at the gasket.

I'm torn, will the tabs settle that down or am I committed to pulling that apart to relace them, is there a simple way of doing it?

Since I am flipping cars with my wife and I wont have one tommorrow I made sure I got everything I could need today (and more - I can always return the stuff! But I cant run out to get it with no car. I have no way of making it back to the parts store tommorrow as I am carless unless I wanna drop her off and pick her up, so I cleared out today (friday) to do this. I have no obigations. I work out of the house which is more often then not, It's muggy and hot and terrible to work outside in FL even this time of year, I have been a Yankee my whole life and my blood is still to thick so I try to work outside early morning or early eve I just cant stand the muggy heat.

I got the water pump out, got everything out, it has obviously been problematic for awhile as it was all corrided, the pump cover took no force to pull off, the water pump was a real b*tch as that thing was seemingly welded into the housing. I took snapshots if any one wants to see, I plan on posting them in forum to hep anyone else who runs into this problem - at least there will be pics to help someone else.

My concern is this, I bought the four gaskets that run the corners from the water pump housing to the block, I dont want to take the throttle body off, I should be able to disconnect and leave it attached IF I HAVE TO PULL the housing to replace these gaskets.

I know the RIGHT thing to do is to tear it down and DO IT - REPLACE THEM and that would be it. I need to keep this car running for awhile and its been a good car. I really dont want to have to tear it down again to replace those gaskets. is there a reasonable way of doing this - seperate the throttle housing and entire water pump housing assembly away from the block in one piece? Can I pull it away a portion at a time and 'SLIP' the gasket(s) into place (obviously I know I have to clean the residue up and prep the housing and block).

I have a lousy CHILTONS and normally I have a shop manual as I do for my yukon, but this is my first attack on this car so I am a Cadillac 'Virgin', and with Northstars' being as tempermental as I have heard and seem to have found I really need some advice. What are my does and dont if I leave this alone and just put it back together or how much aggreviaton am I in for if I go for it and pull the whole cover (hopefully with the throttle body intact as I only have those four 'corner' gaskets, and nobody makes a gaskey rebuild kit that I was able to find so I would be a couple gaskets short if I had to take apart -diassemble the throttle body, etc.

I cant financially just run out and get another car, and when this one turns 160-170 I will give it to my mo who drives about 1000 miles a year, it looks like it has 50K on it, the nose was replaced due to a accident I was in last year, and the body shop seemingly did a decent job.

PLEASE - I REALLY NEED SOME GUIDANCE ON THE BEST WAY TO ATTACK THIS PROBLEM OR IF I SHOULD JUST LEAVE IT ALONE, like I said it was hissing and slightly bubbling around the gasket at 16-18 psi but loud enough for me to hear it. Knowing I am going to keep the car for awhile, is there a reasonable way to slip the gaskets in and out or do I need to tear it off? Can I leave the throttle body on? Do I need more gaskets then the four corners? I KNOW the right thing to do is to just bite it and do it, but I am in a bind timewise, money wise (which is probably more of a reason to do right it so it will be done) will the tabs seal that up? am I even suppose to use any gasket maker (I dont think so)?

ANY ADVICE, DIAGRAMS, INTRUCTIONS, REFERNCE ALL WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED. I KNOW I AM A NEWBIE, BUT I REALLY COULD USE SOME GUIDANCE HERE.

Once I have it all put back together and buttoned back I am going to do a reverse flush as it just looks aweful (from the parts I have taken out) I have all the parts and stuff to do that - should I do that with a NEW WATER PUMP and THERMOSTATE? I really dont have any choice, I could just do a regular flush.

HELP!!!!!!!!!

Thanks

Paul

P.S. I couldnt figure out how to paste some photos showing the assorted condition of the items, I would venture to guess it's the original waterpump as everything is just corroided

If someone tells me how to post pics into a thread I will be more then happy to do so, I want to learn anyways so I can build a 'tutorial' to help other users

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OK I am kinda of new here and I am in the middle of a dilema and really need some advice.

I pulled my 2003 Deville apart today to replace the water pump after it seemingly failed and poured anti freeze everywhere and ran hot.

The car has 145K I have had for 30K of those miles, I have taken care of it, an it has been (seemingly ) taking care of by the previous owner. Has the usual problems Transmission solenoid check engine code and a few others, I am not looking to get into that repair right now as I dont have the $1200 or the 4 days it will take to do it, I am a 'shade tree' mechanic been around cars my whole life, I would give my skill set at about average, I have rebuilt engines and street rods, fixed various problems, but this is my first time on a late model cadillac so I am a little apprehensive.

I pressure tested the system (when I went to by the parts I had to rent a pressure tester as I couldnt find mine - moved to FL about 4 years ago and still have stuff in storage) so I picked up the water pump, thermostat (figured might as well change it out while I am there), got the cadillac tabs, coolant, etc.

I really had to work the tester to get to 18 psi as it would flood under the water pump, couldnt get a clear view at the leak site butit was right underneath the housing and the car sounds like a chainsaw is under the hood when running, so i am pretty sure the bearings/pump was bad/failed. I really wanted to do a reverse flush and get all the crap out of the system but didnt want to chance it with it pouring coolant and I had a really hard time keeping any pressure in the system even with the tester.

I looked around and I saw that in the corner top towards the engine compartment (where the housing meets the block), there is a hissing and some bubbling at the gasket.

I'm torn, will the tabs settle that down or am I committed to pulling that apart to relace them, is there a simple way of doing it?

Since I am flipping cars with my wife and I wont have one tommorrow I made sure I got everything I could need today (and more - I can always return the stuff! But I cant run out to get it with no car. I have no way of making it back to the parts store tommorrow as I am carless unless I wanna drop her off and pick her up, so I cleared out today (friday) to do this. I have no obigations. I work out of the house which is more often then not, It's muggy and hot and terrible to work outside in FL even this time of year, I have been a Yankee my whole life and my blood is still to thick so I try to work outside early morning or early eve I just cant stand the muggy heat.

I got the water pump out, got everything out, it has obviously been problematic for awhile as it was all corrided, the pump cover took no force to pull off, the water pump was a real b*tch as that thing was seemingly welded into the housing. I took snapshots if any one wants to see, I plan on posting them in forum to hep anyone else who runs into this problem - at least there will be pics to help someone else.

My concern is this, I bought the four gaskets that run the corners from the water pump housing to the block, I dont want to take the throttle body off, I should be able to disconnect and leave it attached IF I HAVE TO PULL the housing to replace these gaskets.

I know the RIGHT thing to do is to tear it down and DO IT - REPLACE THEM and that would be it. I need to keep this car running for awhile and its been a good car. I really dont want to have to tear it down again to replace those gaskets. is there a reasonable way of doing this - seperate the throttle housing and entire water pump housing assembly away from the block in one piece? Can I pull it away a portion at a time and 'SLIP' the gasket(s) into place (obviously I know I have to clean the residue up and prep the housing and block).

I have a lousy CHILTONS and normally I have a shop manual as I do for my yukon, but this is my first attack on this car so I am a Cadillac 'Virgin', and with Northstars' being as tempermental as I have heard and seem to have found I really need some advice. What are my does and dont if I leave this alone and just put it back together or how much aggreviaton am I in for if I go for it and pull the whole cover (hopefully with the throttle body intact as I only have those four 'corner' gaskets, and nobody makes a gaskey rebuild kit that I was able to find so I would be a couple gaskets short if I had to take apart -diassemble the throttle body, etc.

I cant financially just run out and get another car, and when this one turns 160-170 I will give it to my mo who drives about 1000 miles a year, it looks like it has 50K on it, the nose was replaced due to a accident I was in last year, and the body shop seemingly did a decent job.

PLEASE - I REALLY NEED SOME GUIDANCE ON THE BEST WAY TO ATTACK THIS PROBLEM OR IF I SHOULD JUST LEAVE IT ALONE, like I said it was hissing and slightly bubbling around the gasket at 16-18 psi but loud enough for me to hear it. Knowing I am going to keep the car for awhile, is there a reasonable way to slip the gaskets in and out or do I need to tear it off? Can I leave the throttle body on? Do I need more gaskets then the four corners? I KNOW the right thing to do is to just bite it and do it, but I am in a bind timewise, money wise (which is probably more of a reason to do right it so it will be done) will the tabs seal that up? am I even suppose to use any gasket maker (I dont think so)?

ANY ADVICE, DIAGRAMS, INTRUCTIONS, REFERNCE ALL WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED. I KNOW I AM A NEWBIE, BUT I REALLY COULD USE SOME GUIDANCE HERE.

Once I have it all put back together and buttoned back I am going to do a reverse flush as it just looks aweful (from the parts I have taken out) I have all the parts and stuff to do that - should I do that with a NEW WATER PUMP and THERMOSTATE? I really dont have any choice, I could just do a regular flush.

HELP!!!!!!!!!

Thanks

Paul

P.S. I couldnt figure out how to paste some photos showing the assorted condition of the items, I would venture to guess it's the original waterpump as everything is just corroided

If someone tells me how to post pics into a thread I will be more then happy to do so, I want to learn anyways so I can build a 'tutorial' to help other users

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If the leak is where the water pump crossover meets the heads, you'll probably need to replace the gaskets. This is not an easy job by any means. There is not a lot of room to work and the main harness is in the way. I would plan on an entire day to do the job. The sealant tabs may stop this leak.

The leak that just pours out coolant sounds like the cover gasket but I'm not sure from your description.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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I merged your two posts on the water pump, no need to start a new thread on the same topic

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Sorry about adding a new post - I as trying to put in pictures of the parts - theyre pretty corroided.

So to update ( have been taking pictures and will post my pics when I hav a sec - saw the post on 'how to post' through photo bucket, thank you. I will start a accont and link them tonight.

So I 'BIT IT' and went for all the marbles pulling the whole thing apart, and your right its a day plus project, there is n room what so ever to work, I spent 45 mins wrenching the back to bottom bolts out as there is no room to get a socket or even a small swivelsocket on it.

The bottom gaskets where actually in good shape, the tops I can see why the right back (closest to the firewall) was starting to fail though I am suspect that it has been failing for sometime.

I pull it all apart and its a bear of a project you have to leave 3 of the bottom bolts int he housing as you cant pull them out because the transmission housing is in the way. I reoved the EGR TUBE not realizing it was a crush fitting so I have to dd that to my parts lists, I cant reuse that can I? (It says not too), I'm a litle stuck as I have the unit seperated and it only gives a inch of pla and it has to come pretty uch straight up and to remove it and prep it right, Ive been banging my knuckly with those back to bolts - time for a break too hot in florida and still too muggy down here for a former Bostonian (Suburbs) so I will resume around 4.

Still a couple hours left I can see another hour to get the unit out completely, I am just taking my time, taking lots of pics in case I forget something or the arrangement of something, I can always refer to the pics. Im stuck right now on a tube that runs under the EGR inlet it has a 1" nut or maybe 3/4" and it runs over the linkage, I have it disconnected at the hose ut it is going to have to come out with the unit.

If anyone has any sugguestions on those back 2 boltsand a faster way I am ddefiitely open, there is no room asmentioned to work in there, I have the knuckles toprove it, lol. Hopefyully at this point I will only need to unbutom a couple things, get another EGR tube (because of the rush fitting) and throttle body gasket I hope they are not dealer only or I am screwed (no wheels till after 5:30 tonight at least)

I have it popped away from the block and just trying to take my time to get it up and out so I can start to prep it and get it ready for reassmbly. Does anyone have any thoughts to using loctite on those bolts, and can I use grease on those gaskets to hold them in place while I reassemble?

Any other thoughts or comments re always appreciated, this is a interesting job, and I have to say that I know I triple my under hood time by pulling the housing but itwill be well worth it in the end, I can see why that gasket was starting to fail, and the other top on closest to the radiator was going to start to fail soon as it was in tough shape. Apreciate the tips and thoughts, wish me luck, I'm going back in (in about a hour or so gotta cool off and eat) - DEFINITELY glad I didn't 'slack off' and NOT change those gaskets althought at 9:00 last night I was running between 3 parts stores getting 4 gaskets!

Thanks all - always appreciate the help and thoughts

Paul

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The easiest way to post photos is to open a www.photobucket.com account. Upload the photos there, then LINK them here, by copying the IMAGE code here, nice and easy and you wont be restricted by the photo size restriction on this board.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Alright after beaking for the afternoon sun, I am stuck - there is a tube I thinkit is the SURGE TANK INLET , it is right under the ER inlet pipe opening on the water pump housing, the pip attavhes to a bracket that is mounted right above the linkage area, I cant figure out how to get this off,it seem like there are two plastic tabs tht you push and there is no way to get a wrench on it as there is no space, there is a bracket that attached to the pipe I cant gain enough clearance to pull the housing upand out!HELP!

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Ok this is out of the 2003 service manual, this should help, you need to remove that bracket.

post-2998-131742635443_thumb.gif

post-2998-131742636155_thumb.gif

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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OK - had to go for a ANOTHER parts run. Needed the tool (the disc tha pushes up inside the fuel lines to release them fromthe fittings) the EGR tube with the crush gasket, throttle body gasket, EGR valve gasket, as my daighter who is 6 and not easily amused by herself will e home tommorrow from school and mom is working I need to try to balanceout workjing on the car with her home - which isnt going to work to well I can tell that frm past experience, so I think I am done until tommorrow night.

THERE IS NO CONCIEVABLE way of pulling that entire assemble out unless you want to remove the fuel injector rails. The is about a couple of inches to work with once you seperate the housing from the block, so not being able to figure out how to pull that entire unit up and and - and I tried everything, that hard pip I think is a 'surge to crossover pipe' which is metal and has a bracket on it, it realeases by pinching the tabs on the inlet together and working the heck out of it, it took some doing but even with that released and off there is no way to clear the fuel rails, and I have it stripped down as much as possible. So I pulled it to one side put my dremel in there clean up the residue on the block and Water pump cover, worked my way from top to bottom, side to side and it took awhile. There are still the 3 bolts on the bottom that dont come out but ince you lift that housing the slide back, this is good in a way that I wont mix up which goeswhere and I can just put the new gaskets on the bolts, align it, start by hand so not to strip and keep working my way back bottom is the hardest so I started there, then front bottom is the easiest. Trying like heck to keep the gaskets on the bolts and the bolts from now sliding completely out, is a juggling act to get those new gaskets in place, you need to keep the housing straigt with one hand, constantly check to see if your lined up with the bolts to start to thread by hand and your movin this 35-40 lb housing to wiggle it around to try and manipulate all four sides. So I started by getting th bottom gaskets set and the bolts started, put one inth op to keep it center and i am in the process of hand tightening those, this particular part s back breaking and teadious as hck, not to mention frustrating! Trying to start thos ebolts by hand is hand enough, but keeping the gaskets on while doing one side then the other is a real pain, once I get the bottoms started (no I didnt get that far I am about 1/2 done as I have one side (the bottom rear back - the hardest) started finger tight, I will get those bottoms started and omce I have them in a tad I will pull the unit back again as a whole and do the tops which should be straight forward.

Of course ALL these parts I mentioned with the except of the tool to release the fuel lines to the injectors, are not common and I an tll ther is no chance of getting the egr tube at a parts store, the gaskets for the egr and the throttle body I will be able to get - the oter stuff I will have to orderlocally or online. I can see getting to the basic 'button up' (not filling it, draining it, flushing it, etc or anything along those lines sometime sunday. Right now I am counting tommorrow as a no go, today I would up getting caught up in a few things and didnt get back to th car till about 6 instead of 3/4 this afternoon, then I had to eat,etc so I really had no much good ime with parts runs and all tonight, maybe a solid 2 hrs of work is what it takes to get where I am - I'm still looking for advice and suggestions, I am keeping this updated as I mentioned because at some point I wll add the pictures and do a full parts list and tutorial on how to do this paricualr job as it's hackedinto pieces in chitons, the diagrams are wrong, they keep flipping back between a 4.6 and 4.9 which ca easily confuse anyone.

So atthis point it's definitely a learning curve - but I still wonder how on earth (I would love to see the GM tech instructions for this job) as there is literally NO WAY without removing te fuelinjetor rails as well to pull this up nd out, now there are addition 'clamps' on the lines where the come off the blick, but they aren't pressed, but seem to be non reusale if you put them off, there are 4 tabs tht bend into the hose and I would say its a pressureized fitting, so other then wha I mentined I dont think you just take it out, but you can get working room (which I know isnt the nest to do it this way, but I am stuck with what I have, thank goofess got my dremal and the long attachment, I was able to get that reprepped in seemingly 30 mins for putting the nx gaskets in, n there was a lot of residue and other crud.

Will keep undating as I progress, thanks to all for the help. Keep it coming, PLEASE

If anyone know for sure how to get that housing out and if is not removing te fuel injector rails let me know and I am very instered to kno wwhat GM has in their database for breakdown instruvtions and time. If I pull ou the parts runs the stopping and this and that I can see how this is a 5-6 job easy from start to finish probably more.

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I think that might have been Logan. You just replace the bolts with ALLTHREAD and run a nut and washer up to hold the cradle in place. Then back off on the nuts a little at a time to lower the cradle.

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that sounds like aa darn good idea. any idea where to get a set of them? at least you know it isnt going to go anywhere

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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My link"]TEAR DOWN PICTURES OF 2003 DEVILLE 4.6 L WATER PUMP HOUSING GASKETS TO BLOCK REPLACEMENT[/url]

THIS IS GOING TO SOUND REALLY DUMB BUT WHAT IS 'ALTHREAD' ? I SEE IT REFERENCED ABOVE AND HAVE NO IDEA WHAT YOU GUYS MEAN

OK SO I OPENED A PHOTOBUCKET ACCOUNT HERES THE LINK TO THE SOME O THE PICTURE - NOT IN ANY PARTICULAR ORDER, I WILL 'PUT THEM IN ORDER WHEN I POST A 'HOW TO THREAD, FOR ANYONE WHO IS INTERESTED.

HERE IS THE PHOTOBUCKET LINK: http://s1095.photobucket.com/albums/i478/carjockey71/

I MADE IT PUBLIE FOR EVERYONE TO SEE, AND I MIGT HAVE PUT THIS LINK IN 2X AS I WANTED TO MAKE SURE I GOT IT IN, SO I DID THE ATTACHMENT ON THIS PAGE AND ADDED THE LINK TO ADDRESS AS SHOW.

AS I ALREADY KNEW BECAUSE MY WIFE WORKED ALL DAY AND WITH MY DAUGHTER AROUND SHE ISNT INTERESTED IN CARS - SHES 6, I WASNT GOING TO GET MUCH TIME INTO THE CAR TODAY. SHE WANTS TO HELP BUT HAS NO PATIENCE TO JUST SIT THERE, I KNOW I DIDNT EITHER WHEN I WAS GROWING UP AND MY DAD WOULD BE DOING SOMETHING. TOUGH TO KEEP KEEPS ON WHAT YOUR DOING UNDER TH HOOD AND ON A 6 YR OLD AT THE SAME TIME, SO I CALLED IT A DAY ON THE CAR AFTER I SUCCESSFULLY GOT EVERYTHING LINED UP AND GASKETS IN PLACE, BOLTS ALL STARTED MOST BY HAND, ALL BY WRENCH, FELT FINE GOING IN, - IF I WOULD HAVE THOUGHT ABOUT IT I WOULD HAVE OIED THE BOLTS TO MAKE IT EASIER, BUT NO STRIPPING (NOT THAT I KNOW IF - LETS HOPE NOT), STARTED TO BUTTON UP THE SIMPLE STUFF LIKE PUTTING THE FUEL INJECTOR LINES BACK ON, BRAKE BOOSTER, THROTTLE BODY (I DIDNT GET A NEW GASKET, IT'S 3 BOLTS, CLEAN IT UP AND IT SHOULD BE FINE, I HAVE ONE ON ORDER ALONG WTH A EGR GASKET BUT I'LL GET THOSE IN A COUPLE HOURS. OTHER MISC HOOKUPS AND SUCH. PREPPED THE WATER PUMP HOUSING FOR THE NEW GASKET WITH THE DREMEL, ETC, WENT THROUG AND TRY TO CLEAN UP AS MUCH CORROSION AS I COULD, THERE IS A BUNCH ON THE INSIDE OF THE HOUSING WHERE THE WATER PUMP SITS, BESIDES WIREBURSHING IT, I CANT REALLY DO MUCH ELSE, IT DIDNT CLEAN UP AS MUCH AS I WOULD HAVE LIKED, BUT THE CAR HAS 150K ON IT. FINSIHED CLEANING THE BLOCK AND HOUSING WITH A DREMEL, PUT THE GASKETS ON THE BOLTS, LINED UP VERY CAREFULLY - I DID NOT USE RTV SEALANT - DID I MESS UP ? - I DIDNT NEED TO ONCE I HAD THE BOLTS ALINED THE ONLY ONE I COULDNT EYE WAS THE BOTTOM RIGHT BUT I CHECK IT BEFORE PUTTING THE HOUSING TOGETHER AND THEN BY 'FEEL' IT WAS THE HARDEST TO DO AND THE FIST ONE I DID, THEN I DID THE BOTTOM LEFT, THEN THE TOP LEFT AND THEN THE TOP RIGHT.

SO TODAY I WILL PUT THE WATER PUMP IN, PUT THE COVER BACK ON, ETC. I SAW IN THE CHILTONS WHERE IS SAID TO PULL THE FUEL INJECTION RAILS BUT I WASNT GOING TO DO THAT, AS I MENTIONED IN MY PREVIOUS POST IF I DIDNT HAVE THOS METAL LINES UP TOP I WOULD HAVE BEEN ABLE TO CLEAR IT.

THE EGR PIPE THAT RUNS TO THE CROSS OVER USES A CRUSH FITTING - THIS IS A DEALER ITEM, IT SEEMED TO SEAT BACK IN OK, DO I ABSOLUTELY HAVE TO REPLACE THIS? THERE IS ANOTHER HARD PIPE UNDERNEATH IT, I THINK IT CALLED THE SURGE PIPE? I RUNS ALONG THE BACK ALMOST UNDER THE MASTER CYCLINDER, HAS A BRACKET ON IT TAT GOES TO THE TRANSMISSION HOUSING AND SITS ABOVE THE LINKAGE - ANOTHER DUMB QUESTION, BUT IT WOULD EEM LIKE THAT WOULD BE A 'CRUSH' FITTING AS IT USES 2 TABS ON EACHSIDE THT YOU HAVE TO PINCH TOGETHER TO PULL OUT AND ITS BEAR TO GET OUT, AND IN FOR THAT MATTER, HIDSIGHT, I WOULD HAVE PUT THAT PIPE BACK ON WHILE I HAD 'MOVING ROOM' AND REMOVE THE EGR PIP AS ITS EASIER TO ACCESS, AND I REMEBER TO LEAVE THE 3 BOLTS IN THE BOTTOM (THEY DONT COME OUT ANYWAYS UNTIL YOU START TO TILT AND MOVE THAT THING AROUND - WHEN YOU LOOSEN THEM UP THE HI THE TRANSMISSION HOUSING SO YOU CANT PULL THEM OUT, BUT ONCE YOU HAVE THE WHOLE THING DISCONNECTED THY WILL WANT TO FALL OUT

THE PHOTO BUCKET PICS ARE NOT IN ANY ORDER, I WILL PUT THEMIN SM KIND OF ORDER LATER WHEN I FINISH UP AND BUILD A 'TRUE' PARTS LIST, TOOLS NEEDED, ETC, IN MY FINISING OF THE THREAD ON HOW TO. I WILL PRESSURRE TEST IT TOMMORROW AFTER I BUTTON IT UP TO MAKE SURE THE GASKETS ARE SEATING WELL AND EVERYTHING ELSE, THEN DO A COPLETE FLUSH, FILL IT UP WITH DEX, I WONT DROP THE TABS IN JUST YET AS I BOUGHT 2 PACKS, RUN THAT IF I TEST WELL UNDER PRESSURE AND THEN I WILL DRAIN IT OUT AGAIN AND BUTTON IT UP FOR THE LAST TIME. CONSIDERING THERE IS GOING TO BE CLEANNER RESIDUE, SOME WD40 LINT, ETC FROM THE JOB I WANT TO FLUSH THAT SYSTEM OUT.

I AM STILL SUSPECT OF THE HEATER CORE, WITH THE AMOUNT OF CORROSION I WOULDNT DOUBT IT, BUT I'LL CHECK THAT AFTER A COUPLE DAYS OF RUNNING THE CAR. WILL DO A OIL CHANGE AND FILTER WHILE I AM TAKING CARE OF HER AND HOPEFULLY HAVE THIS BUTTONED BY MONDAY - AS IF I NEED TO GET A NEW EGR PIPE BECAUSE OF THE CRUSH FITTING I WILL NEED TO GO TO THE DEALER.

THERE WAS LIKE A 'TACKY/STICKY' SUBSTANCE ALL OVER THE TOP OF THE ENGINE LIKE SOMEONE SPRAYED A LIGHT GLUE ON EVERYTHING, THE CONNECTORS ARE COVERED WITH IT, AS WITH EVERYTHNG ELSE, ANY ONE HAVE ANY IDEA WHAT THIS IS AND WHY? IS IT SOMETHING DOWN TO MAKE SURE THOSE CONNECTORS DONT MOVE OR IS IT JUST SOMETHING SOMEONE ELSE DID ?

AS ALSO I HOPE YOU GUYS FIND THIS INFORMATIVE, AND I AM ALWAYS THANKFUL FOR ANY COMMENTS ANSWERSM DAGRAMS HELP ANY ASSISTANCE - KEEP UPDATING.

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BELT AND PULLY TENSION IS GOOD, THERE IS ONLY SEEMINGLY ONE BELT AND THAT THE ONE THAT SLIPS BEHND THE WATER PUMP, WHICH IS ABOUT 6", BUT BESIDES THE TENSIONER BEING GRIMED UP WITH GUNK ITS FINE, AND KEEPS GOOD TENSION AND THE BELT IS IN GOOD SHAPE, ACTUALLY LOOKS PRETTY NEW.

THAT TOP LINK I PUT IN MY LAST POST TO PHOTOBUCKET DOESNT WORK SO IF YOU WANT TO SEE THE PICS YOU HAVE TO CLICK ON THE LINK I PASTED IN, I AM GOING TO TRY AND EDIT IT TO MAKE IT WORK

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THANK YOU 'BODYBYFISHER' FOR THE DIAGRAMS, HELPED OUT!

I CANT RESUE THAT EGR PIP WITH THE CRUSH FITTING? WHEN I PULLED THE OLD ONE IT DIDNT BEND AT THE END OR ANYTHING? THE OTHER ONE I HAD A LOT OF TROUBLE WITH WAS THE 'SURGE TO CROSSOVER ?' HARD METAL PIPE WHHICH BENDS UNDER THE MASTER CYCLINER AND HAS A BRACKET ON IT TO CONNECT TO THE TRANSMISSION HOUSING RIGHT ABOUT THE LINKAGE AREA AND IS ALSO RIGHT UNDER THE EGR PIP OPENING, IT USES TWO TABS YOU HAVE TO PUSH TOGETHER TO RELEASE AND IT IS A BEAR TO PULL OUT.

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I CANT GET THE TOP LONK TO WORK, SO JUST CLICK TO THE ADDRESS I POSTED -

ANYONE HAVE ANY IDEA WHY IT WOULD SEEM LIKE THE ENTIRE TOP OF THE ENGINE WAS SPRAYED DOWN IN LIKE A TACKY LIGHT GLUE? I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT IT IS, IS IT A PART O A REPAIR PROCESS OR IS IT JUST SUPPOSE TO MAKE THE ENGINE LOOK PRETTY?

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