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2000 cadillac deville, slushing sound in dash, overheating


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If coolant is green/ and if it was mixed with orange, will it overheat---just a thought. As I added green, just a tiny bit today. Think when it firat started overheating after the reserve was replaced, they added green????

See these two links, it seems the dexcool should be flushed out and green is not compatible with it

http://en.allexperts.com/q/GMC-Repair-813/mixing-dexcool-green-coolant.htm

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20070822190129AAQvgxG

You said you checked the purge line, are you sure?, did you see coolant flowing?

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The AC was turned off by the PCM and required a few restarts to rid itself of the code..

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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If coolant is green/ and if it was mixed with orange, will it overheat---just a thought. As I added green, just a tiny bit today. Think when it firat started overheating after the reserve was replaced, they added green????

No..

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well I dont even want to write this, but 3 days ago I drove around on very hottest day 105--maybe 25 miles,( that little voice told me to check the coolant before I left the house, but I didnt) no AC on--car was fine. Stopped at store, weather was so hot I turned the AC on for maybe 5-7 min SITTING still at idle, gauge went to 'ENGINE HOT/AC OFF'. Let it cool down, drove short distance-went back up to highest notch, no code light on as to engine hot (no air on), kept driving, then would come down one notch or so then back up couple notches till I got home, about 8 miles or so. Next day reserve was 90% down with some in bottom of reserve, filled it, drove maybe 10 miles and back everything ok, coolant level OK. Next morning checked the reserve-down 90%, filled, drove, level OK. Next morning down 90%. Stays full during day for hours and hours driving or sitting with engine off, just goes down overnight. None on the ground. It takes so little to fill that reserve, all together I probably added only little over a gallon of coolant, that I am wondering if the radiator was really low day one and it just keeps taking more to get it full again???? Also should car be running when adding coolant to suck it into radiator? I didnt have the car running.

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After trying to read through the history of this thread, I end up confused. But it is a short journey from my normal condition to a confused condition. Here is what I have noted.

Extreme coolant temperature fluctuations and low coolant level in the reservoir with no mention of a CHECK COOLANT LEVEL message on the dash (DIC).

No evidence of external coolant leaks.

And no mention of testing the coolant for combustion byproducts.

You say the purge line is flowing freely. Is that with a cold engine at idle?

And has the nipple that connects the purge line to the top end of the reservoir been checked? That connection is about the smallest diameter point in the purge plumbing circuit and "just might" be plugged.

It might help you and us provide some guidance if you could refer to actual coolant temperatures instead of temperature guage positions. This picture provides a base line.

th_Smallertempguagewithnumbers.jpg

....Also should car be running when adding coolant to suck it into radiator?

No, no, hell no.

The coolant level in the reservoir should be checked and adjusted with the engine cold (5:00 AM if necessary).

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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Has the thermostat been replaced?

Has the cap been replaced?

Do you have a miss (rough idle) in the morning?

Have you checked the purge line?

Do the cooling fans come on when the AC is on?

Have the cooling system pressurized by a radiator shop to see if it holds pressure

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Thanks guys, hope I can answer all the questions.

Low coolant light comes on with each start up, EVEN WHEN coolant is at proper level, so everyone seems to rule that as defective-has done this for months.

Did not have the tank pressure tested.

Never has any signs of coolant leakage. Never used any coolant except maybe a pint in the last 3000 miles, Except in the last three days as my last post explained.

Purge line tested when car was cold idle, flows good, but never cleaned the part you were taking about, I will try to do that.

I have no idea what temp, it runs normal at half way mark (WHERE YOURS SHOWS SHIP)-if it exceeds this the next notches are very bright and then red if it hits the top. Then dash warning lights comes on 'engine hot/AC off'. AND I stop.

In case you missed it, it ONLY goes over normal temp, if I run the AC. Made 3- 300 mile trips with out AC, NEVER went passed the normal (half way) mark on temp gauge. And around town etc of over another 2000 miles, no problems, (since I first posted to this board) till I put that AC on. And everyone says overheating has nothing to do with the AC, but darn in my case it does.

Thermostat was replaced when this all started, along with water pump , heat sensor ?, and radiator cap.

Fans DO come on if I turn the AC on.

It has a very little rough idle in the mornings recently, but only for a second or two then runs fine, and not every day.

Have not had the radiator shop to pressurize it.

I fill the reservior to where the COLD line arrow ends, (but not at 5 am : > )wish they would revise these tanks so you could see the fill line plainer, and could see into the sides clearer, like most other cars have a black line or something to show so much better. I suppose that is about half or a little over would be.

Hope I got it all covered, and I really appreciate your time and effort--I would have all the tests ran on it, but there are endless tests.

It was also suggested it may be an electrical problem, as it never seems to be HOT, like steam coming out or any overflow of the reservior, nothing on the ground, no noise of boiling, no nothing when gauge says 'engine hot/ac off'. ( and reservoir has always stayed full, even after times it said HOT, until this last time) I just keep hopeing someone will narrow it down, and pray it isnt the head gasket. Thanks again guys.

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I was beginning to think that it DOES have something to do with you running the AC in my last post,

That is why I began asking about the cooling fans with the AC on, the cooling fans SHOULD run when the AC is on, lift the hood and take a look, both fans should be running with the AC on

We don't want you to prerssurize the tank, we want you to pressurize your cooling system, and TEST the cap (even if its new), if you dont hold pressure you will boil over.... keep in mind that in this summer heat, when you turn your car off, the temp spikes, you could be boiling over after the car is parked. Check your coolant concentration.

So

Check cooling fan operation, as the engine warms up, they should be running loud and fast, if they are 'free wheeling', you need a fan motor. A bad fan motor won't set a code, but it will cause you to run hotter. A relay problem would set a code.

Check coolant concentration needs to be at least 50/50, 60/40 in this heat is better

Pressurize your cooling system and look for leaks, it should hold pressure, this is VERY important, call a local radiator shop and ask if they can pressure test your cooling system to look for leaks.

I am hoping that KHE (Kevin) is monitoring this thread. Kevin, can an AC system have a problem that would cause an increase in heat to the condenser? Can something be wrong with the compressor that would put a drag on the engine and could that cause overheating?

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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You said "It has a very little rough idle in the mornings recently, but only for a second or two then runs fine, and not every day"

BINGO! That is what happened to me, when my head gaskets began to leak.. 5 seconds of roughness in the morning and then fine.

Do not do anything else, UNTIL, you have your coolant tested for combustion by product by a radiator shop, the NAPA kit or if you smell exhaust fumes in your coolant tank... However you may NOT smell exhaust fumes because you have been pouring coolant in..

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but get the coolant tested, so that you dont waste anymore time on it, the morning misfire is an ominous sign

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Well something came to a head today, this morning it was only down about a cup full, I took the purge line off and cleaned the nipple like a post said to do, and checked again it was running good thru the purge line, put it back on good and tight, and drove it. Now the antifreeze is leaking on ground under the reserve pretty bad, none on the reserve, nowhere you can see from the top, friend said that is the water pump. New one was put on about April, but I know you can get a bad one. A horse and buggy sounds better every day! I hope the guy on the AC can give me some advise as to the AC causing this mess. And I know it doesnt have anything to do with coolant now leaking. As far as the head gasket and the miss, I had an 92 alumina for 9 years and it did the same little second or two miss sometimes in the morning and is still running fine--best car I ever had, but not to say this isnt the head gasket, I was just used to the little miss like this one does sometimes. It didnt miss this morning ran smooth. But guess I will have to have the test ran to hopefully rule it out.

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The block test will either condemn or rule out the HG, but as BBF said, DO NOT do it after adding coolant. Wait til you get an overheat, then do it. Figure out if it is a HG first and then go from there.

Make sure that the condenser fins are relatively clean and clear of dead bugs. Flush it with a garden hose.

The surge tank purge line nipple is the weak point. My '97 had a hairline crack that was not even visible. It only seeped a little and then only when at normal operating temperature and pressure.

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Hi everybody, well the issue with losing the coolant finally is fixed, I HOPE, anyway---was a hairline crack right under the overflow hose-so was not noticable until it lost enough to overheat and we saw the liquid coming out the crack yesterday. Replaced it from cadillac dealer and new raditor cap from cadillac (mechanic price on purge tank $120). Drove it about 15 miles temp went up one notch and right back down, today after maybe 15 miles again went up one notch and right back down, only guessing it may have a little air in line???? I put it up to 3000 rpm and back quickly a few times. Is that all I should do?

Also havent seen Kevin on here to post answer to overheating caused by possible AC condensor blockage or whatever, however I told son, and he agreed. So he let it run with AC on and the condensor is in front of the raditor and after a while it put off extremely hot air from the condensor, and very hot to touch. Remembering my car doesnt overheat unless AC is on, and it takes maybe 15-30 miles to overheat, figuring that would be about the time it took that hot condensor to heat the radiator? And should the condensor be putting off really hot air, unless it has a problem?

After putting on the new purge tank, my caddy idles and runs so smooth, no miss when started from cold. The other tank we put on was used, so maybe part of the problem from the start.

Anyway thanks, and please let me know ,again, if I should do more to purge the line from putting on the new tank. And yes the purge line is running good.

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Just drive it for a while. It will eventually purge any air in the system.

The condenser WILL put out hot air. That's what it's there for. Hot high pressure refrigerant gas enters it, cools and condenses to a liquid. Just to be sure it is effective, try blowing out the cooling fins with compressed air, then flush them with a garden hose. Remember, it's been collecting dirt and bugs for 10 years.

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Question: when I lost the antifreeze a few days ago, from crack in purge tank, (now replaced)I was told to just refill with water untill the problem was fixed,( of course will fill with proper mix before winter). Now I am sometimes getting the one notch over the normal (half way). After rereading this post I see a lot of questions on "asking if the mixture is right on antifreeze". WOULD the straight water cause this little one notch over to occur, or do you think it is still has some air in the system? Remembering it stayed on normal (half way on gauge) always for over 3-4000 miles before purge tank developed the crack, EXCEPT when AC was turned on. Thanks again!

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Check the coolant for combustion by products BEFORE you continue, I believe you have a blown head gasket, the test will eliminate that possibility

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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.....Now I am sometimes getting the one notch over the normal (half way).

For my feeble mind, temperature values are more informative than "notches". See post #56 for more information.

After rereading this post I see a lot of questions on "asking if the mixture is right on antifreeze". WOULD the straight water cause this little one notch over to occur,
No.

Coolant temperature is not related to coolant mixture. What is related to coolant temperature is the vaporization temperature of whatever the coolant mixture happens to be. Cooling system (air) pressure is also involved in the mix; and cooling system (air) pressure rises as the coolant temperature increases thereby increasing the vaporization temperature of the coolant.

....or do you think it is still has some air in the system?
Always a possibilty. It can take several (many) warm-up cool-down cycles to push the air from the system. Purging air depends on your driving situation and always always always checking the coolant level in the reservoir when the engine is cold (5:00 AM?)

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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After rereading this post I see a lot of questions on "asking if the mixture is right on antifreeze". WOULD the straight water cause this little one notch over to occur,

Just to reiterate. NO.

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I just was reading a post on here about overheating, and wonder what the 'close off panels at top of condensor and bottom' and asking 'if they are in place'. What are these panels? How are these checked without the radiator shop checking them out?

Also on same post it referred to external leaks in the system, 'you may be able to SMELL coolant'. I sometimes smell coolant or something similar, on the outside of my car, after it has been ran and warmed up. This started right before overheating started. I first thought it was strange, but no one ask about it so I discounted it being a problem. Is this a clue that there is maybe an external leak like in the hoses, etc, in the cooling system. Makes sense to me ; >.

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The panels you speak of are just big plastic panels. The top one covers the radiator and condenser. You should not be able to see the top of them. The lower one is called a splash shield. If you look down with the hood open you should be able to see it (and not see the ground).

The cooling system is a sealed system and you should not smell any coolant. If you do, you have an external leak, however small it may be. You need top start sniffing around and see if you can narrow in on a location. The only other choice is to have it pressure tested and let it set till the leak shows itself.

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