CarlaValentine Posted January 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2010 Ok. Now I'm annoyed. That is indeed the brake booster sensor. Which means I changed the wrong thing. They both cost the same price, so I wouldn't have known the difference by that. In a way I should be relieved though because this means maybe my MAP sensor really IS having problems, since I have been looking in the wrong place all this time. I don't know who should feel more like an idiot...the person who gave me the wrong part, or me for not knowing the difference. I'm not gonna beat myself up about it though. Now I know where to look for my problem. grrrr. Oh well. I had to pull that cover off to check the fuel pressure one of these days anyhow. I shoulda known....I was wondering why the MAP sensor would hook to the friggin brake booster? Duh. Thank you MAC for pointing out that mistake to me, or I would have been searching endlessly for this mystery vacuum leak. Hopefully this puts an end to the searching. You're Welcome! The important thing is that when all is said and done that you've pinned it all down between wires, plugs, and a new MAP sensor. Except that you did mention something about a possible vacuum leak. If you can locate a leak, it's probably best to fix it first and see what happens. I suspect that any effect on engine vacuum may very well throw off an otherwise healthy MAP. If I remember, you did mention that idle is still a bit high, which indicates a potential vacuum leak. Just a suggestion. However, if the MAP is inexpensive then maybe it would be simple enough to take a chance and replace it and see what happens. Well, the vacuum leak sound I heard WAS coming from somewhere left of the break booster, so if the MAP sensor is under the manifold cover on the rear, driver side of the engine, then it's possible that the leak is in the connection to the MAP sensor itself, and that the sound was echoing around that area. I couldn't pinpoint the sound, hence my not being able to find anything. When I looked up the MAP sensor, it has a small valve on the bottom of it that looks like it would push into a rubber fitting of some sort. I imagine if it isn't seated correctly, it would create a vacuum leak, thus throwing the Open MAP signal code I am getting, and possibly the sound I am hearing. I'll take the manifold cover off tomorrow (if it isn't sub-zero cold out) and check it. Too bad I can't start it with that cover off to listen for the leak....oh well. I can check it anyhow. If after checking it, the code still shows up, I will go ahead and replace it, but I'd rather try to fix it first. Why spend the 45$ if I don't have to right? This time, I will be sure to get the right thing. Lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarlaValentine Posted January 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2010 Tell me of I am wrong but some of those gaps appear pretty big, have you check their gaps? Finally got hold of a plug gap gauge, and checked the gaps on the old plugs. 1= .057 2= .053 3= .056 4= .052 5= .054 6= .054 7= .056 8= .054 Being that they all still had their platinum pads, I'm not sure how they came to be off on their own. Oh well, that's one problem taken care of. Now to get this MAP sensor thing taken care of. I'll probably have to wait until my kids are in bed, and go out there with a drop light, since I don't have anyone to watch them for me and I'm not bringing them out in the cold. It's hard to find a balance when you have 3 kids and a fussy car, lol. I wouldn't give any of them up for anything though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL T Posted January 27, 2010 Report Share Posted January 27, 2010 Your P032 code is probably due to a short to ground somewhere. I think I had to tape the wires to the MAP on my 94 Concours because they were wore through the insulation from rubbing the inside of the cover. Remember, you only have to remove the 12 star wrench bolts on the cover to remove it. Make sure you use a good star wrench because they could be hard to get off. Be careful not to pull the threads out when you loosen them. The manual has a bolt removal sequence. This is the sequence of removal. Standing in front of the car looking at the engine, there are 6 bolts in the front and 6 in the back of the cover. There only looks like there is 8 but there are 2 more on each end under the wire harnes plastic right and I am not sure what covers the left side. First bolt to remove is the 3rd from the left in the front Second bolt - second from right (throttle body side) in rear Third bolt - left front Fourth bolt - right front fifth bolt - second from left rear sixth bolt - third from right front seventh bolt - third from right rear eighth bolt - second left front ninth bolt - right rear tenth bolt - left rear eleventh bolt - second right front 12th bolt - third left rear retighten as shown above to 102 lb. in. (11.5 Nm) You do not have to take the 4 bolts in the middle of the cover off, they hold the whole intake down. Check the FPR while you are under there. I bet you just find a loose/dirty connection or an open wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarlaValentine Posted January 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2010 Your P032 code is probably due to a short to ground somewhere. I think I had to tape the wires to the MAP on my 94 Concours because they were wore through the insulation from rubbing the inside of the cover. Remember, you only have to remove the 12 star wrench bolts on the cover to remove it. Make sure you use a good star wrench because they could be hard to get off. Be careful not to pull the threads out when you loosen them. The manual has a bolt removal sequence. This is the sequence of removal. Standing in front of the car looking at the engine, there are 6 bolts in the front and 6 in the back of the cover. There only looks like there is 8 but there are 2 more on each end under the wire harnes plastic right and I am not sure what covers the left side. First bolt to remove is the 3rd from the left in the front Second bolt - second from right (throttle body side) in rear Third bolt - left front Fourth bolt - right front fifth bolt - second from left rear sixth bolt - third from right front seventh bolt - third from right rear eighth bolt - second left front ninth bolt - right rear tenth bolt - left rear eleventh bolt - second right front 12th bolt - third left rear retighten as shown above to 102 lb. in. (11.5 Nm) You do not have to take the 4 bolts in the middle of the cover off, they hold the whole intake down. Check the FPR while you are under there. I bet you just find a loose/dirty connection or an open wire. that would be about 8 ft/lbs right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted January 27, 2010 Report Share Posted January 27, 2010 8.5 ft/lb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted January 27, 2010 Report Share Posted January 27, 2010 Your P032 code is probably due to a short to ground somewhere. I think I had to tape the wires to the MAP on my 94 Concours because they were wore through the insulation from rubbing the inside of the cover. Remember, you only have to remove the 12 star wrench bolts on the cover to remove it. Make sure you use a good star wrench because they could be hard to get off. Be careful not to pull the threads out when you loosen them. The manual has a bolt removal sequence. This is the sequence of removal. Standing in front of the car looking at the engine, there are 6 bolts in the front and 6 in the back of the cover. There only looks like there is 8 but there are 2 more on each end under the wire harnes plastic right and I am not sure what covers the left side. First bolt to remove is the 3rd from the left in the front Second bolt - second from right (throttle body side) in rear Third bolt - left front Fourth bolt - right front fifth bolt - second from left rear sixth bolt - third from right front seventh bolt - third from right rear eighth bolt - second left front ninth bolt - right rear tenth bolt - left rear eleventh bolt - second right front 12th bolt - third left rear retighten as shown above to 102 lb. in. (11.5 Nm) You do not have to take the 4 bolts in the middle of the cover off, they hold the whole intake down. Check the FPR while you are under there. I bet you just find a loose/dirty connection or an open wire. that would be about 8 ft/lbs right? 8.5 ft-lbs like Ranger said but where would you find a ft-lb. torque wrench that would read that low? Most ft-lb clicker torque wrenches only go down to 20 ft-lbs. that's why the spec. is in inch-pounds. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarlaValentine Posted January 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2010 Your P032 code is probably due to a short to ground somewhere. I think I had to tape the wires to the MAP on my 94 Concours because they were wore through the insulation from rubbing the inside of the cover. Remember, you only have to remove the 12 star wrench bolts on the cover to remove it. Make sure you use a good star wrench because they could be hard to get off. Be careful not to pull the threads out when you loosen them. The manual has a bolt removal sequence. This is the sequence of removal. Standing in front of the car looking at the engine, there are 6 bolts in the front and 6 in the back of the cover. There only looks like there is 8 but there are 2 more on each end under the wire harnes plastic right and I am not sure what covers the left side. First bolt to remove is the 3rd from the left in the front Second bolt - second from right (throttle body side) in rear Third bolt - left front Fourth bolt - right front fifth bolt - second from left rear sixth bolt - third from right front seventh bolt - third from right rear eighth bolt - second left front ninth bolt - right rear tenth bolt - left rear eleventh bolt - second right front 12th bolt - third left rear retighten as shown above to 102 lb. in. (11.5 Nm) You do not have to take the 4 bolts in the middle of the cover off, they hold the whole intake down. Check the FPR while you are under there. I bet you just find a loose/dirty connection or an open wire. that would be about 8 ft/lbs right? 8.5 ft-lbs like Ranger said but where would you find a ft-lb. torque wrench that would read that low? Most ft-lb clicker torque wrenches only go down to 20 ft-lbs. that's why the spec. is in inch-pounds. The one I have is ancient, and it's not a clicker. It ranges from 0-140 ft-lbs. It has Nm on it too, but a lot of the printing on that part is rubbed off and hard to read. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted January 28, 2010 Report Share Posted January 28, 2010 Your P032 code is probably due to a short to ground somewhere. I think I had to tape the wires to the MAP on my 94 Concours because they were wore through the insulation from rubbing the inside of the cover. Remember, you only have to remove the 12 star wrench bolts on the cover to remove it. Make sure you use a good star wrench because they could be hard to get off. Be careful not to pull the threads out when you loosen them. The manual has a bolt removal sequence. This is the sequence of removal. Standing in front of the car looking at the engine, there are 6 bolts in the front and 6 in the back of the cover. There only looks like there is 8 but there are 2 more on each end under the wire harnes plastic right and I am not sure what covers the left side. First bolt to remove is the 3rd from the left in the front Second bolt - second from right (throttle body side) in rear Third bolt - left front Fourth bolt - right front fifth bolt - second from left rear sixth bolt - third from right front seventh bolt - third from right rear eighth bolt - second left front ninth bolt - right rear tenth bolt - left rear eleventh bolt - second right front 12th bolt - third left rear retighten as shown above to 102 lb. in. (11.5 Nm) You do not have to take the 4 bolts in the middle of the cover off, they hold the whole intake down. Check the FPR while you are under there. I bet you just find a loose/dirty connection or an open wire. that would be about 8 ft/lbs right? 8.5 ft-lbs like Ranger said but where would you find a ft-lb. torque wrench that would read that low? Most ft-lb clicker torque wrenches only go down to 20 ft-lbs. that's why the spec. is in inch-pounds. The one I have is ancient, and it's not a clicker. It ranges from 0-140 ft-lbs. It has Nm on it too, but a lot of the printing on that part is rubbed off and hard to read. Do yourself a favor and buy or borrow an inch-pound clicker torque wrench - it is much easier to get the correct torque value. Your wrench is probably graduated in 5 or 10 ft-lb increments which will make 8.5 ft-lbs difficult to achieve given the scale. It is one thing if you're torquing a bolt to 75 or 100 ft-lbs but another when the torque spec. is so low. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL T Posted January 28, 2010 Report Share Posted January 28, 2010 I had my cover off my 94 Concours several times. I do not have a torque wrench, so I just snug tightened them with not much pressure. I had one pull some of the aluminum threads out when I first removed it, but it always seemed to tighten up enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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