Jump to content
CaddyInfo Cadillac Forum

Northstar...could it be my headgasket?


Recommended Posts

Glad you got it fixed. A clogged cat doesnt cause a smell, it will sap power. Try taking your car for a long highway speed ride, a sunday ride.

There is nothing better for these engines than a long high speed ride (60 to 75) for a couple of hours.

If you are smelling eggs, that is a rich mixture. Your FPR (fuel pressure regulator) is located in the intake so its hard to see if its leaking. What kind of smell do you smell?

Glad all is well

Mike,

If I wanted to do that...why should I drive so slow?

Some of the highways here in Texas (out west) have 80 MPH speed limits...and most people are going even faster than that.

:lol::lol::lol:

Just playing with you...I know that speed limits are much slower back East.

But, seriously, my car does like to get out on the highway and RUN. :D

I oblige it whenever I get a chance.

I don't want it to be unhappy. :D

Oh I hear you! :lol:

But you know what I mean, a car that is driven locally at low speeds, runs terrible. I long run cleans out the intake, valves and exhaust with heat and turbulance, and it runs so much better.

Putting a bottle of Techron in a full tank of gas before a trip and driving it hard works wonders. By driving hard I mean, WOTs getting up to highway speed (80 then down to the speed limit), leaving rest areas, leaving toll booths etc... Blow her out!

I think its the heat buildup also and the reseating of the rings...

But I know what you mean, I love TEXAS.... so did my Dad, they know how to drive... :wub:

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

Link to comment
Share on other sites


  • Replies 133
  • Created
  • Last Reply

By bad smell I mean sulfur/eggs. It's most noticeable when slowing down after driving at any speed over about 45, and it does feel a little sluggish when driving at slower speeds than it does on the highway. It gets a lot of highway driving as my boyfriend takes it to work and back every day during the week, and that's a 45 minute drive one way, all highway at 65mph. It seems to have a "dead" spot in the acceleration when it hits about 40mph, and when I took it out on the highway today the "service engine soon" light came on as soon as it hit that dead spot at 45mph.

I pulled it over, ran the codes on the computer to see what it was, and got P039: Torque converter clutch/Viscous converter clutch engagement problem

I've never seen that code on it before...but am wondering if that has anything to do with the dead spot in the acceleration it has around 40-45mph?

It's still running 10 times better now than it was a week ago, and at least I know I can drive it now without it stalling out on me every time it's at an idle...but it still seems to have a few more bugs to work out. I can't really complain too much though, after all, I did get the car for only 500$ with no rust, and in really good condition.

big4870885.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The egg smell can be cause by a rich mixture, you will need to check your fuel pressure regulator for fuel leaking from it into the intake manifold, that could be your hesitation also. This can also be caused by high sulfur fuel, if you use the same station try changing fuel

P039 caused your shutter at speed, your torque converter clutch/system is acting up

You could be getting your dead spot because of this as your TC may not disengage when it needs to, it will create a flat spot and the engine will labor, not 100% sure about that

We will research the P039, and members will chime in on it

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I guess I should also add my findings on the "overheating" issue I had.

Well when I checked the coolant pressure yesterday I noticed the cap has 2 little arrows on it, and it says "line up arrow with hose"...I never noticed it before then, and of course it wasn't on correctly. I put it on right, and the temp hasn't been over 213 since. I guess it wasn't really overheating to begin with. 222 isn't high for this car, but it acted like it was because of the coolant spewing out of the surge hose and the boiling sound from the tank. I guess it must have been from the cap not being on right. The system can't pressurize correctly if the cap doesn't allow it to right? lol. Needless to say, I felt mildly retarded when I realized what a simple thing I overlooked, but I'm glad it was just an error on my part.

I also think it's worth noting that I only run 93 octane fuel in my car. Never anything less.

big4870885.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey that is great! You proved how important the cap is and how it will release pressure if not fully tightened. It is very hard to 1) get the cap off and 2) to fully tighten the cap, so dont feel badly about that. I can see easily how it would be possible not to tighten it fully. Line up that line! Your experience is valuable and its possible that other members have had this issue and didnt know it!

Terrific, see, I told you not to panic!

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I plan on replacing the ISC motor in the future, but for now I think this solution will do.

Save your money Carla. I think you have solved the problem. It's as good as new and should last a long time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I plan on replacing the ISC motor in the future, but for now I think this solution will do.

Save your money Carla. I think you have solved the problem. It's as good as new and should last a long time.

Yeah, I guess so. But if it starts acting up again, I think I will just go ahead and get a new one, cuz like I said it looked pretty bad when we had it apart, and I don't know if it will hold up through another cleaning.

big4870885.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well I ran out this morning and ran a check for codes (again) and the only thing coming up is

-open Map signal (history): I changed this already, just didn't clear the codes afterward...guess I should do that.

-intermittent map signal (history): see above

- front left wheel speed sensor continuity fault (current): changed wheel hub and had a wiring issue with the ABS unit...haven't taken care of it as I have bigger fish to fry at the moment.

I also started the car and let it warm up for a while. I checked the surge tank first to be sure there was coolant in it after the episode the other day, and I had to add to it. It was idling high (2500) for about a minute or two, then dropped to about 1000 and stayed there. Kept an eye on the temp gauge and warmed up from 35 to 209 in less than 10 minutes!! It's freezing out, how does that happen? Checked the surge tank overflow hose, and it wasn't spewing at all, and top hose had good pressure. Let it run a little longer. It got up to 234, then the temp dropped quickly down to 199 and stayed there. All the while the idle was bouncing all over the place, but the rad hose pressure stayed firm and no coolant spewed out at all. I don't believe I overfilled the coolant as I had only filled the surge tank halfway before it started spewing before. I'm starting to wonder if maybe I have a bad coolant temp sensor? But I figured that would show on a code check.

I think my next step will be to replace the idle air control unit and see how that pans out as far as the idling issue goes. As far as the coolant thing, I'm kinda new to these motors and am trying to learn as much as I can. I've heard that normal operating temp for them is 190-210. is this right? Before I started having issues mine typically ran about 208, no higher than 211 at a long idle.

I owned two '94 Eldorados and the suggestion given to you to check the Idle Speed Control Actuator regarding erratic idling is good advice. If you still have erratic Idling the first thing you should check is codes and then the Actuator. I had a problem with erratic idling and replaced the Actuator and it was immediately solved. Below are some threads on this topic and some of my posts. Eventually, the erratic idling will likely get worse if it's the Actuator, which is located under the air intake hose by the throttle body. If you look at the plunger when the idle is acting up you will probably see the plunger going in and out erratically.

Here is a post showing you what the ISA looks like (click on the link)

Here is a thread regarding replacement of the ISA

Here is another thread about the symtoms

An new Actuator is upwards of $80 to $100.

I just want to share some info regarding my experience.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well I wish I had more good news to share with everyone, but it seems I have more bad news instead. I don't think I am quite back to square one so to speak, but I have definitely taken a giant leap backwards. I went out to start my car to go to the store earlier this evening, and my car started just fine, idled just fine for about 20 seconds, then it started chugging a little and idled up, then it just died. I started crying...yes crying. I thought this was taken care of. So I took out my camera and decided to record what the car did the next time I started it figuring maybe if people on here had something to go by other than what I say, it would be easier to help me figure out what's going on. I will post the link at the end of this.

Anyway, the next time I started it, it was still stuttering pretty bad, but I managed to get it to stay running long enough to get it into gear, and once I did, it idled perfect! I don't get it. I drove it to the store, and it ran fine as far as the idle goes. Stopping at stop signs the idle was perfect, even when I got to the store and put it in park I let it run for a few minutes, and the idle never budged from 600 rpm's.

I was only in the store about 5 minutes, went back out to the car, and pulled my camera out again just in case...and of course, the car did the same thing as when I left my house. It just didn't want to stay running or idle quite right.

I don't know that it's still the ISC causing the problem because it idles perfectly once I manage to get it into gear, and even after I put it back into park after driving somewhere. The only time it does this is when I first start it and it's still in park.

The link is to my photobucket account where I uploaded the videos. They aren't great quality, and I'm not a great cameraman (woman actually) but I did the best I could. There are 3 of them, numbered in the order they were taken, all with descriptions under them.

I'm pretty bummed out right about now...I'm not asking for miracles here. I just want my poor car to run good and no one around here really knows much about it. Hopefully someone on here has some idea. I don't think it's anything to do with the EGR system or it seems to me it would be doing it all the time.

http://s305.photobucket.com/albums/nn204/C...talBitch/Caddy/

big4870885.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did you check for trouble codes?

Did you pull the plugs to see if they are good and if there is any sign of fouling.

The engine sounds like it's missing because of either bad plugs, wires, or even a coil. If all these are good, it's even possible that the PCM is defective.

I would think there are code(s). If not, then I would start pulling the plugs and check the wires. At night, get a spray bottle and mist some water on the wires when the engine is running and see if you can see a wire arch. Also, pull the plugs. If you don't know the history of the car it's smart to do some routine checking.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

By bad smell I mean sulfur/eggs. It's most noticeable when slowing down after driving at any speed over about 45, and it does feel a little sluggish when driving at slower speeds than it does on the highway. It gets a lot of highway driving as my boyfriend takes it to work and back every day during the week, and that's a 45 minute drive one way, all highway at 65mph. It seems to have a "dead" spot in the acceleration when it hits about 40mph, and when I took it out on the highway today the "service engine soon" light came on as soon as it hit that dead spot at 45mph.

I pulled it over, ran the codes on the computer to see what it was, and got P039: Torque converter clutch/Viscous converter clutch engagement problem

I've never seen that code on it before...but am wondering if that has anything to do with the dead spot in the acceleration it has around 40-45mph?

It's still running 10 times better now than it was a week ago, and at least I know I can drive it now without it stalling out on me every time it's at an idle...but it still seems to have a few more bugs to work out. I can't really complain too much though, after all, I did get the car for only 500$ with no rust, and in really good condition.

The P039 code tends to set at about 40 to 45 mph. The P039 code will set when the transaxle turbine speed and engine rpm are out of sink by about 46 rpm for about 4 seconds. When the TCC is applied there should be almost no slip. If the TCC does not fully engage it will result is excessive slip causing the code to set. It likely has something to do with a dead spot but given your other problems I wouldn't give a definite answer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did you check for trouble codes?

Did you pull the plugs to see if they are good and if there is any sign of fouling.

The engine sounds like it's missing because of either bad plugs, wires, or even a coil. If all these are good, it's even possible that the PCM is defective.

I would think there are code(s). If not, then I would start pulling the plugs and check the wires. At night, get a spray bottle and mist some water on the wires when the engine is running and see if you can see a wire arch. Also, pull the plugs. If you don't know the history of the car it's smart to do some routine checking.

Hm..I have looked at the wires but never took out the plugs. Such a simple thing and I never thought to check those. Duh. Guess my dad was right when he said I should stop over thinking and over analyzing things so much all the time. As far as codes, that was another thing that threw me through a loop...the only one that showed up when I ran them after all this was P095: Engine Stall Detected....Yeah, didn't take a rocket scientist to figure out my car stalled, lol. I'll check the spark plugs as soon as I get a chance tomorrow, and I'll check all the plug caps and wires too. I'll post my findings back here after I do.

Oh, does anyone know what the spark plug gap is supposed to be for this engine?

big4870885.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well I wish I had more good news to share with everyone, but it seems I have more bad news instead. I don't think I am quite back to square one so to speak, but I have definitely taken a giant leap backwards. I went out to start my car to go to the store earlier this evening, and my car started just fine, idled just fine for about 20 seconds, then it started chugging a little and idled up, then it just died. I started crying...yes crying. I thought this was taken care of. So I took out my camera and decided to record what the car did the next time I started it figuring maybe if people on here had something to go by other than what I say, it would be easier to help me figure out what's going on. I will post the link at the end of this.

Anyway, the next time I started it, it was still stuttering pretty bad, but I managed to get it to stay running long enough to get it into gear, and once I did, it idled perfect! I don't get it. I drove it to the store, and it ran fine as far as the idle goes. Stopping at stop signs the idle was perfect, even when I got to the store and put it in park I let it run for a few minutes, and the idle never budged from 600 rpm's.

I was only in the store about 5 minutes, went back out to the car, and pulled my camera out again just in case...and of course, the car did the same thing as when I left my house. It just didn't want to stay running or idle quite right.

I don't know that it's still the ISC causing the problem because it idles perfectly once I manage to get it into gear, and even after I put it back into park after driving somewhere. The only time it does this is when I first start it and it's still in park.

The link is to my photobucket account where I uploaded the videos. They aren't great quality, and I'm not a great cameraman (woman actually) but I did the best I could. There are 3 of them, numbered in the order they were taken, all with descriptions under them.

I'm pretty bummed out right about now...I'm not asking for miracles here. I just want my poor car to run good and no one around here really knows much about it. Hopefully someone on here has some idea. I don't think it's anything to do with the EGR system or it seems to me it would be doing it all the time.

http://s305.photobucket.com/albums/nn204/C...talBitch/Caddy/

Seems to me that you have a bad battery or corroded battery cables maybe so it doesnt connect fully! I noticed that your "Traction disabled" message appered and it did the same on my STS until i changed the battery! Is your battery old or ar your batterycables corroded?

Roger

Roger Martinsen

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well I wish I had more good news to share with everyone, but it seems I have more bad news instead. I don't think I am quite back to square one so to speak, but I have definitely taken a giant leap backwards. I went out to start my car to go to the store earlier this evening, and my car started just fine, idled just fine for about 20 seconds, then it started chugging a little and idled up, then it just died. I started crying...yes crying. I thought this was taken care of. So I took out my camera and decided to record what the car did the next time I started it figuring maybe if people on here had something to go by other than what I say, it would be easier to help me figure out what's going on. I will post the link at the end of this.

Anyway, the next time I started it, it was still stuttering pretty bad, but I managed to get it to stay running long enough to get it into gear, and once I did, it idled perfect! I don't get it. I drove it to the store, and it ran fine as far as the idle goes. Stopping at stop signs the idle was perfect, even when I got to the store and put it in park I let it run for a few minutes, and the idle never budged from 600 rpm's.

I was only in the store about 5 minutes, went back out to the car, and pulled my camera out again just in case...and of course, the car did the same thing as when I left my house. It just didn't want to stay running or idle quite right.

I don't know that it's still the ISC causing the problem because it idles perfectly once I manage to get it into gear, and even after I put it back into park after driving somewhere. The only time it does this is when I first start it and it's still in park.

The link is to my photobucket account where I uploaded the videos. They aren't great quality, and I'm not a great cameraman (woman actually) but I did the best I could. There are 3 of them, numbered in the order they were taken, all with descriptions under them.

I'm pretty bummed out right about now...I'm not asking for miracles here. I just want my poor car to run good and no one around here really knows much about it. Hopefully someone on here has some idea. I don't think it's anything to do with the EGR system or it seems to me it would be doing it all the time.

http://s305.photobucket.com/albums/nn204/C...talBitch/Caddy/

Seems to me that you have a bad battery or corroded battery cables maybe so it doesnt connect fully! I noticed that your "Traction disabled" message shows and it did the same on my STS until i changed the battery! Is your battery old or ar your batterycables corroded?

Roger

Roger Martinsen

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It sounds to me from the videos as if you have a misfire. Mine was a bad coil pack, but it can also be from plug wires or worn-out plugs. That never threw a code on mine. One thing that I was shocked by when I had the problem was how many stacking drivablility I could have without throwing a code. It still had enough power to get wheelspin on dry pavement, so I found it hard to believe that two cylinders were out, but they were. It was pretty smooth above 2,000 rpm, but shook a lot at idle. There are instructions on here as to how to do a "cylinder balance test," in which the fuel injector for individual cylinders can be disabled one at a time. Cutting any cylinder that doesn't change RPM or smoothness should certainly have its coil and wire checked.

The P039 code is one that's on my list to fix. There's a PCM chip replacement that changes the program of when the TCC locks to prevent it from slipping by not locking at such low RPM. The chip is only about $100, but isn't easy to find now. There was a TSB out for that problem years ago when the cars were in warranty, but most people have forgotten about it and the chip isn't in production anymore. For now, I downshift to 3rd to climb hills at 55 MPH to solve having the engine light come on until I can get that chip.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You smelled eggs, you could be having problems with your fuel pressure regulator, smell the exhaust for fuel and look at the outlets are they black?

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Plugs are gaped to .050. If you change them, use A/C Delco 41-950's, nothing else. Likewise with wires, A/C Delco (pricey).

By the way, there IS an idle learn procedure that can be done after messing with the ISC motor. I don't recall the procedure, but it should be in the archives somewhere, although it is supposed to relearn on it's own after a few days of driving.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well I wish I had more good news to share with everyone, but it seems I have more bad news instead. I don't think I am quite back to square one so to speak, but I have definitely taken a giant leap backwards. I went out to start my car to go to the store earlier this evening, and my car started just fine, idled just fine for about 20 seconds, then it started chugging a little and idled up, then it just died. I started crying...yes crying. I thought this was taken care of. So I took out my camera and decided to record what the car did the next time I started it figuring maybe if people on here had something to go by other than what I say, it would be easier to help me figure out what's going on. I will post the link at the end of this.

Anyway, the next time I started it, it was still stuttering pretty bad, but I managed to get it to stay running long enough to get it into gear, and once I did, it idled perfect! I don't get it. I drove it to the store, and it ran fine as far as the idle goes. Stopping at stop signs the idle was perfect, even when I got to the store and put it in park I let it run for a few minutes, and the idle never budged from 600 rpm's.

I was only in the store about 5 minutes, went back out to the car, and pulled my camera out again just in case...and of course, the car did the same thing as when I left my house. It just didn't want to stay running or idle quite right.

I don't know that it's still the ISC causing the problem because it idles perfectly once I manage to get it into gear, and even after I put it back into park after driving somewhere. The only time it does this is when I first start it and it's still in park.

The link is to my photobucket account where I uploaded the videos. They aren't great quality, and I'm not a great cameraman (woman actually) but I did the best I could. There are 3 of them, numbered in the order they were taken, all with descriptions under them.

I'm pretty bummed out right about now...I'm not asking for miracles here. I just want my poor car to run good and no one around here really knows much about it. Hopefully someone on here has some idea. I don't think it's anything to do with the EGR system or it seems to me it would be doing it all the time.

http://s305.photobucket.com/albums/nn204/C...talBitch/Caddy/

Seems to me that you have a bad battery or corroded battery cables maybe so it doesnt connect fully! I noticed that your "Traction disabled" message appered and it did the same on my STS until i changed the battery! Is your battery old or ar your batterycables corroded?

Roger

the "traction disabled" message is due to the ABS issue. If you notice, the ABS light on the cluster is also on. I did figure out what the problem with that is, and it's a corroded connector where the wheel hub I replaced plugs in. As far as the battery goes, there was a new battery, cables, and starter installed in the car less than 2 months before I bought it back in August, so I highly doubt there are issues with any of these. I did double check the connections and they all seem to be tight.

big4870885.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You smelled eggs, you could be having problems with your fuel pressure regulator, smell the exhaust for fuel and look at the outlets are they black?

The exhaust did smell very rich (like gas) and yes, the outlets are black on the inside. I will also add that there are no holes in my exhaust anywhere, nor is there any rust, and it is all original factory exhaust. The car car was never driven in any snow until this winter here in NY.

I'm heading outside in a few minutes to do a spark plug check...just as soon as I remember where I put my plug gap gauge.

big4870885.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You smelled eggs, you could be having problems with your fuel pressure regulator, smell the exhaust for fuel and look at the outlets are they black?

The exhaust did smell very rich (like gas) and yes, the outlets are black on the inside. I will also add that there are no holes in my exhaust anywhere, nor is there any rust, and it is all original factory exhaust. The car car was never driven in any snow until this winter here in NY.

I'm heading outside in a few minutes to do a spark plug check...just as soon as I remember where I put my plug gap gauge.

You should not take plugs out of a Northstar, regap them and reinstall them as the threads are coated to prevent corrosion, see this from the service manual:

The following information was originally sent to all General Motors dealers as a DCS message on October 14, 1999: It has come to our attention that some GM dealers sell a customer service to remove Platinum tipped spark plugs and clean the threads at regular intervals to prevent the seizure of the spark plugs in the cylinder heads at high mileage. Platinum tipped spark plugs are designed to operate under normal vehicle operating conditions for up to 100,000 miles (160,000 kms) without periodic maintenance. When no engine performance concerns are present, platinum tipped spark plugs should not be removed for periodic inspection and cleaning of threads, doing so would compromise the spark plugs ability to withstand their corrosive environment. The threaded area, although not sealed, serves as a protective environment against most harmful elements. Removing and cleaning spark plugs will introduce metallic debris and brush scrapings into the thread area which may further the corrosion process. Chromate coated spark plugs should not be wire brushed or handled in any way once they are put in service. Chromium topcoats form a protective oxide on spark plugs that is not effective if scratched. Both coated and uncoated spark plugs will have the best chance of surviving a corrosive environment if they are left in position. Attempts to maintain spark plugs by removing them and cleaning the threads can actually create the corrosive condition that the procedure was intended to prevent.

Therefore it is not recommended to remove the plugs and reinstall them

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the plugs have never been replaced, chances are that the platinum pads on the ground electrodes are long gone. A new set of plugs would be in order.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, I didn't get to pull the plugs, as someone has so graciously misplaced my socket set...(probably me, lol) But I did pull the wires on all the front bank cylinders and check them out. I should note here that when I looked at the wires before, I just looked at the wires, I didn't pull the caps and look at the connectors or I surely would have noticed this then. These pics don't even justify how bad they actually looked.

This is the front bank, cylinder 6. Cylinder 8 also looked like this.

Picture013.jpg

This is the connector for front bank, cylinder 2. All of the front bank cylinder connectors looked like this.

Picture012.jpg

I'm not sure if I did this right so that the images actually posted, but if not then just go to the url if that's what shows up.

I guess it's time to replace my wires, and given the condition of those (which looks pretty unhappy to me) I should go ahead and replace the plugs as well. The car is 16 years old, and has over 150,000 miles on it and I am assuming they are still the original plugs and wires. Getting to the ones on the rear bank is going to be a pain I can see, but it will be a small battle worth fighting if it will get my car running right.

big4870885.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well the back is not as hard as it looks, just take off the coil pack/ICM, there are 4 bolts

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Remove the strut tower cross brace, then as BBF said, remove the ICM (with the coils still on it. Be advised that there is a mounting bolt on the back side that uses the Braille method.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well I went ahead and took one of the plugs out just to see what I was dealing with. I figured it's not going to hurt anything to take it out and put it back in since I don't plan on driving the car anymore until I replace them all and get the car running right. It's not terrible, but it's not good either.

Picture015.jpg

I'm wondering if these are actually the original plugs though because the car's manual says the car is equipped from the factory with AC 41-900 plugs, and when I pulled this one it was AC Delco 41-950. I am replacing all the plugs and wires, but sadly I am going to have to wait a few days. I knew it was going to be pricey, but I wasn't expecting pricey to be almost 200$, and I don't have 200$ in my pocket at the moment. If I did, I would have this done already. I know having a Caddy is a little more costly to take care of, but I remember being able to get new plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor for my old Chevy Blazer for under 30$, lol. Aside from everything seeming to be a bit more expensive, there is nothing I would give up about owning this car.

Ranger, I assume by "Braille" method you mean those pain in the *beep* bolts that you can't quite see, so you just have to feel your way around them? Those are always fun (enter sarcasm here).

In the meantime, I am going to look for instructions on how to do this "cylinder balance test" that Davek spoke of, and figure out how to check the fuel pressure regulator for leaks. I guess it also wouldn't hurt to set the PCM to monitor everything in the system while it's at an idle and make notes of what everything is doing, just to check what is or isn't operating withing a normal range. Aside from that, there isn't really much I can do at the moment except look out my window in sadness at my poor car....I can see how badly she wants to be out on the road, and I'm going to do whatever I can to get her there! It is drivable once I manage to get it into gear, I just worry that driving it in this condition may do more harm than good, so I think it best to just wait it out until I get everything taken care of.

If anyone has anything to add, please do. If and when I make any more progress, I will be sure to let everyone know about it ASAP.

big4870885.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.



×
×
  • Create New...