stenseltizm Posted February 20, 2009 Report Share Posted February 20, 2009 I purchased a 2003 Deville last Saturday and after just this week and a half I'm now nervous the car has some issues. I noticed a couple times after coasting almost to a stop and then pressing the gas pedal the car does a delay then a hard shift. At a stop sign the car stalled, then started right up and that was it. Around 2 trouble free tanks of gas later, I get a call (fiance's car) today that the car stalled on the way to the grocery store, then immediatly started again. After coming out of the store this time the car took a while to start, and the CEL was then on. I scanned the codes and got a list, I can't find all of them yet. Here are the codes and what I think they are, feel free to correct me if I'm wrong. DDM B1327 History Device Power Circuit Low DDM B3069 Current DDM U1713 History Loss of Front Door Module to Window Motor High Speed Comm. DDM U1714 History Loss of Front Door Module to Window Motor Normal Speed Comm. DDM U3832 History DDM U1300 History Class 2 Data Link Shorted DDM U1000 History Class 2 Communication Malfunction DDM U1164 History Lost Communications With XXX SDM B0077 History Left Front/Driver Frontal Deployment Loop (Stage 2) Open SDM B0078 History Left Front/Driver Frontal Deployment Loop (Stage 2) Open SDM B0100 History SDM U1000 History Class 2 Communication Malfunction IRC U1016 History Lost Communications With XXX PCM P0385 Current Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor B Circuit What does history mean, that they were cleared before? I'm worried that the car has had these problems and the dealer cleared the codes before I purchased the car. The car has just over 57000 miles, we have run maybe 3-5 tanks of gas through it so far. So any recommendations on how to procede? I've did a quick search and the p0385 seems to be my stalling issue and also seems like an easy fix, but what about the rest of them, anything serious? My search of B3069 returned nothing Thanks guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted February 20, 2009 Report Share Posted February 20, 2009 Your stalling is caused by the P0385 crank sensor replace both of them and the stalling will stop... It is possible that your battery had a low charge at the dealer, or that your battery is bad. Try driving it for awhile to charge it or charge it, clear the codes and see what comes back Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stenseltizm Posted February 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2009 One more thing I changed the oil as soon as I purchased the car and the local advance auto said the car should take 7.5 quarts including the filter. I checked the oil the next day and it took the rest of the 8th quart and then 3/4 of another. A week later the oil was perfect, how much oil do these cars take? I'm going to keep a close eye on the oil level obviously but just wanted to know if it was just all the lines and cooler getting filled with oil and they really take that much. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stenseltizm Posted February 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2009 Your stalling is caused by the P0385 crank sensor replace both of them and the stalling will stop... Thanks That seems to be the concensus through the other threads I searched, what about the other 'current' code and the hard shifting after coasting/slowing down? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted February 20, 2009 Report Share Posted February 20, 2009 take another look at my prior post I edited it. some of your problems might have been caused by a discharged or bad battery. I dont see any transmission codes, check the battery and clear the codes Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted February 20, 2009 Report Share Posted February 20, 2009 One more thing I changed the oil as soon as I purchased the car and the local advance auto said the car should take 7.5 quarts including the filter. I checked the oil the next day and it took the rest of the 8th quart and then 3/4 of another. A week later the oil was perfect, how much oil do these cars take? I'm going to keep a close eye on the oil level obviously but just wanted to know if it was just all the lines and cooler getting filled with oil and they really take that much. Thanks They take 7.5 quarts but 7.5 quarts is overkill. As long as it registers on the stick you are fine. It was spec's for 7.5 quarts so that it does not run dry on high G turns. Some NSs leak oil and its best NOT to fill it to the brim. Your experience will determine how high you keep it.. If these engines are babied they will tend to use oil. Do a search for the WOT Procedure and do it once a month, it will help to keep your combustion chamber clear and your rings exercised. This is a high performance engine that does not like to be babied, beat it. You will notice that after a long high speed trip with lots of WOTs your engine will feel effortless after your return, it loves to be beat and driven hard.. just drive safely and watch for torque steer, the first time you experience it, it may surprise you. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stenseltizm Posted February 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2009 I'll follow your advice thanks. I think found my other 'current' code something about the drivers door cylinder lock circuit. That would make sense why the alarm goes off if I unlock my car with the key instead of the fob Thanks again I'm calming down now that nothing seems serious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stenseltizm Posted February 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2009 They take 7.5 quarts but 7.5 quarts is overkill. As long as it registers on the stick you are fine. It was spec's for 7.5 quarts so that it does not run dry on high G turns. Some NSs leak oil and its best NOT to fill it to the brim. Your experience will determine how high you keep it.. If these engines are babied they will tend to use oil. Do a search for the WOT Procedure and do it once a month, it will help to keep your combustion chamber clear and your rings exercised. This is a high performance engine that does not like to be babied, beat it. You will notice that after a long high speed trip with lots of WOTs your engine will feel effortless after your return, it loves to be beat and driven hard.. just drive safely and watch for torque steer, the first time you experience it, it may surprise you. Sounds good, I've been babying the thing completely Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texas Jim Posted February 20, 2009 Report Share Posted February 20, 2009 Like BodybyFisher said...watch out for torque steer. If you have not driven a front wheel drive car with a lot of power...the torque steer when you GET ON IT may catch you by surprise if you are not expecting it. I agree about the battery..and the codes...it could have just been a low battery. Most of the codes are about losing comms with something else...which could easily be caused by a low battery. Be safe doing the WOT procedure. It is kinda fun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stenseltizm Posted February 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2009 OK I cleared the codes but forgot to test the battery voltage while the car is not running. It has been running perfectly until I was driving home from visiting my parents today. About 20 minutes into the drive cruising around 50mph the car suddenly jerked like I spiked the brakes for a second. The CEL light came on immediately but the car drove fine the rest of the way to the meeting I was late for. After leaving the meeting I scanned the codes and here they are as my car displayed them: as they are defined on this site. DDM B3069 History: DTC B3064 or B3069 Driver Door Key Cylinder Circuit (listed under 2003 Cadillac CTS DTS's, the same?) IPC U1000 Current: DTC U1000 and U1255 Class 2 Communication Malfunction IRC U1064 History: DTC U1001-U1254 Lost Communications With XXX IRC U1016 History: DTC U1001-U1254 Lost Communications With XXX PCM P0385 History: DTC P0385 Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor B Circuit SDM U1000 Current: DTC U1000 and U1255 Class 2 Communication Malfunction Is there a description to what system the first three letters represent? And what dictates a code as being Current, or History? Could the P0385 have caused he shudder then be passed as history because the key was cycled and the sensor now seems ok? I'm going out of town on Monday and I want to be sure letting my fiance drive my family around in the car will be reliable first, but also that she won't be damaging anything further. Any help will be appreciated. Also, I read over my 'warranty' and it specifically excludes electrical sensors so it looks like I'll be on my own for these fixes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stenseltizm Posted February 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2009 A little update rant: I had an appointment to take it to the dealer (suzuki not cadillac) to explain my findings and try to get them to fix it. I ended up having a funeral to attend so I sent my fiance with a letter detailing the issues that arose almost immediately after leaving thier lot, my step by step diagnostics and why I know exactly what the problems were, and offered to do all labor if they would simply pay for the parts that I'm sure they get at a discounted rate. Mind you I only asked for the engine parts, not for them to fix the door lock or pay for programming the key fobs they gave me that didn't work as they are only convenience issues. I got a call after that they made her wait over an hour, charged her $37.90 to connect to thier computer, then told her they don't have the special equipment to connect to a cadillac and sent her on her way. I went back to the dealer in a less than favorable mood and had to explain everything I politely wrote in my letter to the woman that swore she read my letter and had no idea what I was asking from them. I eventually got my $37.90 'labor' back when one of the mechanics walking by said you could easily check the codes through the DTC (what the h*ll did they do then?) Their only offer was to give me a 'break' on the labor if I were to have the work done at their shop, meaning I would still have to pay for the parts AND labor, though a 'discounted' labor rate. (I wouldn't trust these yahoo's now that I see thier inability to function) I bought the parts at the Cadillac dealer for employee pricing and informed the original dealer I would be telling everyone I know about their lack of customer service, as well as everyone I don't know through letter to the editor. So sorry for the rant, I'll have the car on my friends lift tomorrow and hopefully fixed thanks to the information I found here and from searching this site. Oh and I strongly recommend people not take their business to Ellis Auto Group, my experience was with their Lyndora, PA 16045 Suzuki location specifically but they have other lots and other brands. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted February 28, 2009 Report Share Posted February 28, 2009 * ABS -- Antilock Brake System * AMP -- Amplifier * DDM -- Drivers Door Module * DDS -- Drivers Door Switch * DIM -- Dash Integration Module * IPC -- Instrument Panel Cluster * IPM -- Instrument Panel Integration Module * IRC -- Integrated Radio Chassis * LRD -- Left Rear Door Module * MSM -- Memory Seat Module * PCM -- Powertrain Control Module * PDM -- Passenger Door Module * RCC -- Rear Climate Control * RFA -- Remote Function Actuation * RIM -- Rear Integration Module * RRD -- Right Rear Door Module * RSS -- Road Sensing Suspension * SDM -- Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module * TTM -- Tilt and Telescopic Steering Wheel Module * VTD -- Vehicle Theft Deterent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stenseltizm Posted February 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2009 thanks ranger, I've been using the search button and finding all my necessary info. Not sure why I reverted back to newb mode and kept asking for spoon feeding when I needed to realize I'm not the first person on the board to have a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stenseltizm Posted February 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2009 Well I replaced both my crankshaft position sensors today then cleared the codes for hopefully the last time. I was able to get the lower one just fine, but the upper required me to remove the oil filter adapter so I could remove the orange 'lock' that kept the electrical connection from falling off. After that it was a breeze. Anyway to my question I remember reading on here of a 're-sync' for the new sensors here: http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?sho...90&hl=P0385 Do I need to do something like that and how is it done? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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