98deville Posted December 7, 2008 Report Share Posted December 7, 2008 MY car has been acting funny lately. When I go to start the vehicle it turns on and then quickly dies out. Does this a few times before it starts or sometimes I have to press the gas to get it started ...Also when driving after awile you feel a little jerk and the rpms stay up even when letting go of the gas it also does this while stopped at a red light, it stays idled at 1500rpms Car only has 72k miles on it recieved these codes IPC U1000- Class 2 Communication Malfunction IPC U1016- Loss of Class 2 Communication with PCM IPM B0249- Heater/Defrost/AC Door Range Error RIM U1000 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted December 7, 2008 Report Share Posted December 7, 2008 Give the TB a good cleaning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPreston2001 Posted December 7, 2008 Report Share Posted December 7, 2008 My guess would be a faulty IAC module. At first I thought of your FPR being bad when you mentioned the jerking, but if your fuel pressure regulator was bad you would also be experiencing hard starts. I agree with Ranger, clean your throttle body, EGR, MAF sensor, and just for good measures check your fuel pressure regulator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted December 8, 2008 Report Share Posted December 8, 2008 Codes: U1000 Class 2 Communication Malfunction U1016 Loss of Communications with PCM B0249 Heater/Defrost/AC Door Range Error Modules: IPC Instrument Panel Cluster IPM Instrument Panel Integration Module RIM Rear Integration Module It's very important whether or not the codes are History or Current. Also, are you getting these codes from the DIC or are you getting them by pulling the OBD II codes via the console? Here's how to pull the codes from the console: http://www.caddyinfo.com/readingcodes.html From what you have posted so far, it looks like you have an electrical problem between the instrument panel and the PCM. The network wire is the purple wire. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98deville Posted December 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2008 Codes: U1000 Class 2 Communication Malfunction U1016 Loss of Communications with PCM B0249 Heater/Defrost/AC Door Range Error Modules: IPC Instrument Panel Cluster IPM Instrument Panel Integration Module RIM Rear Integration Module It's very important whether or not the codes are History or Current. Also, are you getting these codes from the DIC or are you getting them by pulling the OBD II codes via the console? Here's how to pull the codes from the console: http://www.caddyinfo.com/readingcodes.html From what you have posted so far, it looks like you have an electrical problem between the instrument panel and the PCM. The network wire is the purple wire. All the codes were current codes. I got these codes from the console Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted December 8, 2008 Report Share Posted December 8, 2008 You have a wiring problem that is preventing your modules from communicating. That's what is shutting down your engine. The network is on the purple wire. Check the connectors on the PCM (under the air cleaner element on my 1997; yours may be different) and check under the dash for loose or disconnected wiring. The only other code you have indicates that one of the A/C air control doors isn't functioning properly, which may mean that something is amiss under the dash. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98deville Posted December 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2008 could washing the engine lead to any of these? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted December 12, 2008 Report Share Posted December 12, 2008 Absolutely. Pressure-washing can cause temporary low-level short circuits and bring up tons of codes. If you have pressure-washed the engine bay or the underside of the car, you should let it dry out, reset the codes from the DIC, and see if any of them come back. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OynxSTS Posted December 13, 2008 Report Share Posted December 13, 2008 could washing the engine lead to any of these? The crank sensors are new right? Does it restart after the stall? Easin' down the highway in a new Cadillac, I had a fine fox in front, I had three more in the back ZZTOP, I'm Bad I'm Nationwide Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98deville Posted December 13, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2008 could washing the engine lead to any of these? The crank sensors are new right? Does it restart after the stall? The crank sensors are the original ones that were on the car. Car has 72,000 miles on it...It stalls like 3 or 4 times then it will eventually start or if you give it a little gas it will start. I did pressure wash the engine bay 2 weeks ago. The car would stall before I washed it but after I washed it the car has been acting funny like while applying the brake the feels as if it's still going the rpms stay 1500 while holding the brake at a light or if im stopped somewhere...goes away when I turn off the car and then start it again but then after awile it does it again....where can I look at to see what the problem is ...did I mess up the computer or anything electrical when I washed the engine ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OynxSTS Posted December 13, 2008 Report Share Posted December 13, 2008 Random stalls in 2000-2003 Northstars with no PCM codes are almost always crank sensors... GM fixed the crank sensors in LATE 2003... If your car is an early 2003 build it needs new crank sensors... the orginal "mexican made" units start to fail at about 50,000-60,000 miles... Replace them both. This is a fairly easy DIY project... Best $80 you will ever spend. If your car is a LATE 2003 build then something else is wrong. Easin' down the highway in a new Cadillac, I had a fine fox in front, I had three more in the back ZZTOP, I'm Bad I'm Nationwide Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted December 13, 2008 Report Share Posted December 13, 2008 Car has 72,000 miles on it...It stalls like 3 or 4 times then it will eventually start or if you give it a little gas it will start. That has no effect. You are not "giving it gas". You are simply opening the throttle plate, thus giving it air or better yet, lessening the restriction to air flow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98deville Posted December 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2008 could washing the engine lead to any of these? The crank sensors are new right? Does it restart after the stall? I take that back....If you are talking about the crankshat sensors then yea they are near new put new ones on a few months back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98deville Posted January 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 car still dies out when trying to start..I replaced both crankshaft postion sensors about 6 months ago could it be something fuel related? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted January 16, 2009 Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 Did you ever clean the TB? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98deville Posted January 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 no haven't had a chance to do it. Opened the throttle body plate, didn't seem that dirty at all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted January 16, 2009 Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 Understand that the idle is controlled by the IAC valve which controls the air flow through the idle air circuit. It is just an air passage that bypasses the closed throttle plate. If that passage is carboned closed, no idle air = stall. I don't know when it was last cleaned or if it ever was, but I would clean it to eliminate that possibility. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98deville Posted January 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 I dont think it was ever cleaned Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted January 17, 2009 Report Share Posted January 17, 2009 Then it is LONG overdue and probably a lot dirtier than you think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98deville Posted January 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2009 what about the idle speed control motor or the idle air control valve? I also removed the throttle body and Im looking inside the intake manifold and it's covered in black oily soot. Is this normal or should the intake be taken out and cleaned too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98deville Posted January 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2009 made a little mistake I had the car turned on and loosened and took off the idle air control valve as I was doing this the o-ring (seal) thats around it got sucked in to the manifold.....will I have to take off the manifold to get it out or can I just leave it in there ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted January 17, 2009 Report Share Posted January 17, 2009 Don't leave it in the manifold. All you need is some melted rubber holding a valve or two open. It's fairly straightforward to pop the intake manifold. Here's the instructions from my FSM pages 6-50 and 6-51. There are two pictures but they are just showing the beauty cover being lifted off and the twelve bolts for the intake manifold. They do say that you need a fuel line quick connect separator tool set. They give GM part J37088 but I expect that Pep Boys will have a perfectly good one for small change. Here are the instructions: Remove the negative battery cable. Remove the intake manifold sight shield -- four nuts. Relieve the fuel system pressure. There is a Schrader valve on the fuel line; use that and a plastic cup or large wad of paper towels or shop rags. Observe usual precautions regarding open gasoline exposure: no idiots in attendance, keep the trouble lights and anything that might generate sparks away, allow reasonable ventilation no matter how cold the air, etc. Remove the air intake duct from the throttle body. If you can reach the O-ring at this point, just button it up and you're done. Remove the transaxle vent hose and transaxle shift cable at the bracket. Remove the throttle position (TP) sensor and idle air control (IAC) valve connectors. Remove the accelerator cable and cruise control cable at the throttle body. Remove the front bank spark plug wires and lay them aside. Remove the throttle body coolant hoses at the throttle body and the surge tank pipe. Remove the EGR pipe and the crankcase ventilation pipe at the trottle body spacer. Remove the brake booster vacuum hose at the intake manifold vacuum fitting. Remove the fuel rail ground wire at the rear cylinder head. Remove the quick-connect fittings at the fuel rail. Instructions for this step below. Disconnect the fuel rail bracket at the EGR valve. Disconnect the PCV hose at the intake manifold. Remove six bolts, four studs and the intake manifold. Instructions for removing the quick-connect fittings at the fuel rail, step 13 above: Grasp both sides of the fitting. Twist the female connector 1/4 turn in each direction to loosen any dirt withing the fitting. Caution: Safety glasses must be worn when using compressed air, as flying dirt particles may cause eye injury. Blow the dirt out of the fitting using compressed air. Choose the correct tool from the J37088 for the size of the fitting. Insert the tool into the femal connector, then push/pull inward to release the locking tabs. Pull the connection apart. Using a clean shop towel, wipe off the male pipe end. Inspect both ends of the fitting for dirt and burrs. Clean or replace the components or assemblies as required. Be careful with the intake manifold gaskets. They are re-usable. If you are insecure about this, have a new set on hand just in case. Putting it back after you get the O-ring out, do everything in reverse. Things you need to know: Important: When tightening the intake manifold bolts and studs, start at the center of the manifold and work your way outward in a circular pattern. Only tighten the intake manifold bolts when the engine and manifold are cool. Do not tighten the intake manifold bolts and studs with the engine at operating temperature. Tighten the bolts and studs to 10 N*m (89 lb-in, or 7.4 lb-ft) torque. Use a few drops of clean engine oil on the male ends of the fuel rail inlet and outlet tubes. Tighten the EGR pipe bolts to 28 N*m (21 lb-ft) torque. Before you put the beauty cover back on, check for fuel leaks. Here's how: Turn the ignition switch ON for two seconds, then turn OFF for ten seconds. Then, turn the ignition switch ON and check for fuel leaks. Tighten the beauty cover nuts to 3 N*m (27 lb-in) torque. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted January 18, 2009 Report Share Posted January 18, 2009 If the TB is still off, look inside. You might find and be able to snag the "O" ring, if it did not already get ingested. The oily mess in the manifold is normal. It is a combination of crankcase gases from the PCV and exhaust gases from the EGR that settle out when the engine is shut down. Ugly, but harmless. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
navion Posted January 18, 2009 Report Share Posted January 18, 2009 It sounds like you may have more than one problem. In addition to the above, I would change the fuel filter. Every time I change a fuel filter, I am amazed at the amount of what appears to be fine sand & rust particles that the filter has caught. Even if the filter has been changed recently, filling up just once after or during the station getting a load dropped, can cause sediment from the storage tank to be pumped into your car's tank. As far as pressure washing your engine, I learned my lesson on a 1988 Seville. I almost had to get towed from the car wash! It finally dried it's self out, but for a while there, I thought that I had ruined the engine's electronics. Good Luck, Britt Britt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98deville Posted January 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2009 is there one gasket I have to replace or two? I've replaced the one on the throttle body itself but is there one that goes from the intake to the TB? If there is I didnt see one when I took off the intake Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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