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HDR Photography Test images


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I was just testing an HDR software program. Here are the results.

3 images taken at EV +2.0, +0.0 and -2.0 and then recombined to create a surreal image that includes highlights and shadows from all three images.

EV +2.0 Picture003.jpg

EV +0.0 Picture004.jpg

EV -2.0 Picture005-1.jpg

HDR Picture005.jpg

Second test image:

EV +2.0 Picture009.jpg

EV +0.0 Picture010.jpg

EV -2.0 Picture011-1.jpg

HDR Picture011.jpg

If you really want to make people safe drivers again then simply remove all the safety features from cars. No more seat belts, ABS brakes, traction control, air bags or stability control. No more anything. You'll see how quickly people will slow down and once again learn to drive like "normal" humans.

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Excellent. You can get good pictures in high contrast situations by capturing as much dynamic range in the camera as possible, scanning to more than 8 bits per channel, and doing a strong unsharp mask and turning up the saturation. But, these two HDR samples make that look like a kludge. What is the software?

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Excellent. You can get good pictures in high contrast situations by capturing as much dynamic range in the camera as possible, scanning to more than 8 bits per channel, and doing a strong unsharp mask and turning up the saturation. But, these two HDR samples make that look like a kludge. What is the software?

A cheapo program named Dynamic Photo HDR http://www.mediachance.com/hdri/index.html

It's a VERY automated program but there's plenty of room to tweak images if you like. The two test examples I took were not exactly ideal HDR conditions but it gave me a very good idea of what the program is capable of.

If you really want to make people safe drivers again then simply remove all the safety features from cars. No more seat belts, ABS brakes, traction control, air bags or stability control. No more anything. You'll see how quickly people will slow down and once again learn to drive like "normal" humans.

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Very Interesting, the comparison of the HDR to the 0.0 exposure is compelling.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Verry interesting. I routinely take three exposures a stop or so apart when I have a wide dynamic range composition. Now, I need to use a monopod to make sure that HDR will work well but I may be able to use a lot of old photos, even from the film days.

Thank you, Marika. B)

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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I WANT a Nikon D200 badly

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I would love to have a Nikon, Canon or Kodak high-end digital SLR but my casual use of cameras these days doesn't justify the expense. I use high-end point-and-shoot fixed-lens cameras, and I have two: a Canon S5 for it's image stabilization and excellent hand-held pictures in low light and at long distances with a lot of zoom magnification (to about 1500 mm, 35 mm equivalent) and an Olympus C8080WZ for general purpose work, macro work, and it's magnificent thermonuclear flash, guide number 50 meters! If things get rough, I have a full Canon professional system that I used extensively many years ago, and a T90 body that I keep handy with a 17 mm lens on it (see my signature photo), and a circular fisheye (see my avatar). I also have three rolls of Professional Kodachrome 64 in the fridge. B)

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Thanks Marika,

That software was fascinating! One of these days, given your impetus, I might actually begin reading the owner's manual for my recently acquired Fuji S9000. It seems it has more potential than I realized.

I need to stop using that "AUTO" setting. The other bazillion settings deserve some looking into. <_<

Regards,

Warrren

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There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises

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Jim I don't know if a monopod would be sufficient, as it would allow camera movement. This seems to be a tripod only affair

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Jim I don't know if a monopod would be sufficient, as it would allow camera movement. This seems to be a tripod only affair

Take one picture in RAW mode and with photoshop you can import it using the RAW import thingy dingy.

With this import util you can change all kinds of fun like exposure etc.. etc..

This will give you the option to have 3 exact same pics but with different exposures/contrast and all that cr*p.

As a matter a fact, with this import util you can overlay as many different pics as you want if you have a better sky with one exposure but a better foreground with another exposure.

Best of both worlds if you like.

Does above make any sense? i believe i'm just rambling on here....

I have a teaching movie somewhere in which all steps required for this are clearly explained, let me know if there is interest and i'm willing to try and find that cd again.

Marc.

If you are in complete control..... you are not going fast enough....

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Jim I don't know if a monopod would be sufficient, as it would allow camera movement. This seems to be a tripod only affair

Take one picture in RAW mode and with photoshop you can import it using the RAW import thingy dingy.

With this import util you can change all kinds of fun like exposure etc.. etc..

This will give you the option to have 3 exact same pics but with different exposures/contrast and all that cr*p.

As a matter a fact, with this import util you can overlay as many different pics as you want if you have a better sky with one exposure but a better foreground with another exposure.

Best of both worlds if you like.

Does above make any sense? i believe i'm just rambling on here....

I have a teaching movie somewhere in which all steps required for this are clearly explained, let me know if there is interest and i'm willing to try and find that cd again.

Marc.

Hey Marc, that is good info, thanks, Mike

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I went to the link that Marika gave us and got the HDR utility. They have an add-on for Photoshop that works with only one photo to give a very similar effect. It's only $8 if you buy it right after you get the HDR utility. Here's Cyr's photo with the Photoshop filter:

Cyr_photo_2007-12-21.jpg

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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I went to the link that Marika gave us and got the HDR utility. They have an add-on for Photoshop that works with only one photo to give a very similar effect. It's only $8 if you buy it right after you get the HDR utility. Here's Cyr's photo with the Photoshop filter:

Cyr_photo_2007-12-21.jpg

Wow, it certainly has changed the entire mood of the image.

If you really want to make people safe drivers again then simply remove all the safety features from cars. No more seat belts, ABS brakes, traction control, air bags or stability control. No more anything. You'll see how quickly people will slow down and once again learn to drive like "normal" humans.

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It looks like the Photoshop filter works in the Fourier domain, adjusting the brightness mid level by scaling the low spatial frequencies, then scaling the contrast to give full dynamic range locally in each region of the picture without clipping. You could do something similar with a strong unsharp mask with adjusted parameters and working with brightness, contrast, and saturation in separate regions of the photo, but it looks to me like processing gets a better overall quality than is possible that way.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Here's an interesting photo of men installing posts to stop cars parking on the pavement outside an Irish sports bar. They're cleaning up at the end of the day. It seems they haven't yet come to understand the corner they've painted themselves into.

Would enhancing this photo improve their predicament?

Regards,

Warren

post-416-1199138714_thumb.jpg

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There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises

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Here's an interesting photo of men installing posts to stop cars parking on the pavement outside an Irish sports bar. They're cleaning up at the end of the day. It seems they haven't yet come to understand the corner they've painted themselves into.

Would enhancing this photo improve their predicament?

Regards,

Warren

Oh i love this one!!!! :D

If you are in complete control..... you are not going fast enough....

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I WANT a Nikon D200 badly

I use a Panasonic FZ-30. The CCD sensor in this camera is not known for it's dynamic range, it's also a rather noisy sensor BUT I didn't buy the camera for that reason. The camera sports a Leica 35~420mm (35mm equiv) lens that's probably one of the best lenses out there. Razor sharp. I prefer a sharp noisy image over a soft, noiseless image. Just my personal preference. Here's the review of the FZ-30 http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/panasonicfz30/

You can't find the FZ-30 anymore, it was replaced by the FZ-50. It's essentially the same camera, same optics but Panasonic did "pixel stuffing" and stuffed 10.1 pixels into the same sized sensor found on the FZ-30. They cranked up the noise reduction so while now you get relatively noise-free images at low ISO's, you also get images that lack the details that the FZ-30 was able to produce. Smeared, almost painting-like images is what the FZ-50 produces. Some people like it and are happy with it but I prefer sharp photographs to paintings.

If you really want to make people safe drivers again then simply remove all the safety features from cars. No more seat belts, ABS brakes, traction control, air bags or stability control. No more anything. You'll see how quickly people will slow down and once again learn to drive like "normal" humans.

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Marika, thanks so much for showing us this utility. I can see my autumn photos improving immediately. How many times I have said, the photo did not represent the intense colors I saw, now, it looks like I can replicate what I saw with more dynamic range, Thanks

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Marika, thanks so much for showing us this utility. I can see my autumn photos improving immediately. How many times I have said, the photo did not represent the intense colors I saw, now, it looks like I can replicate what I saw with more dynamic range, Thanks

It never looks like what you remember seeing. The human eye has a much greater dynamic range than digital cameras. Closest reproduction is gained from low ISO slide FILM. The human eye relies upon shadows to determine what it sees and sends to the brain. Digital cameras just don't pull shadow details as well as the human eye or film. It's a trade off I guess, the convenience of instant images for something in the image that is just "lacking". The human eye can see somewhere around 7 to 10 million colors based on 3 color pigments in the eye. Tetrachromats can see about 100 million colors because they have one extra color pigment in their eye, giving them 4. More information about Tetrachromacy is found here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tetrachromacy

If you really want to make people safe drivers again then simply remove all the safety features from cars. No more seat belts, ABS brakes, traction control, air bags or stability control. No more anything. You'll see how quickly people will slow down and once again learn to drive like "normal" humans.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Verry interesting. I routinely take three exposures a stop or so apart when I have a wide dynamic range composition. Now, I need to use a monopod to make sure that HDR will work well but I may be able to use a lot of old photos, even from the film days.

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Closest reproduction is gained from low ISO slide FILM. The human eye relies upon shadows to determine what it sees and sends to the brain.

I used to use Kodachrome ASA 25 for things that tended to have warm tints. People and autumn scenery shots for instance.

Ektachrome 64 for shots that tended to the green or blue. Summer scenery or shots with a lot of sky. Loved the fine grain and satuation of both of these films. Ektachrome 160 could easily be pushed to 400 and not lose a lot of grain or saturation.

Panatomic X was a good black and white film as was Tri X Pan.

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