Patrick7997 Posted September 23, 2006 Report Share Posted September 23, 2006 Some may find this useful, so here goes.... I changed my radiator fluid today... I also changed it in May, but since I was pretty sure I didn't get it all out, I thought I'd do it again, and that back to back changes would have to be very refreshing to it, even if I didn't get every last drop.... As always, refer to your factory service manual.... I am not responsible for anything.... how's that for a disclaimer?!?!? This is my method (and it has been pretty easy for me): 1. Jack up the dirver's side front corner of the car some.... 2. There is a black cover on the bottom, slightly rearward of the radiator. It has 3 bolts on it, facing forward, that hold it in place. Remove the three bolts, and the black plastic cover. 3. On the Driver's side, at the bottom, is the petcock for my radiator. I am told some of these are a "hex bolt" style... mine is not, it just has a raised narrow strip running the diameter of the petcock itself. I made a wooden tool to turn that, out of a piece of dowel... if anyone is interested, I will reply with exact dimensions of my "hi-tech" petcock turning tool.... 4. Remove radiator cap. 5. be ready with your 5-gallon drain pan, get under the petcock, and turn it counter-clockwise several turns. If yours is like mine, you can barely see it, and you may need an assist from pliers to turn the tool... but it will open. Fluid will begin to flow straight down from a small opening directly beneath the petcock. Try and get out of the way and get the pan under there as quick as you can.... opening it more will cause fluid to flow faster... 6. regardless of how far you open it, this will take awhile. 20 to 30 minutes? Something like that... Also, this time I used Ranger's advice, and if you turn a shop vac on "reverse", so it blows air, you can blow air INTO the cap opening, and force out a lot more anti-freeze. Great tip. Worked beautifully. 7. (Later) Okay, it's finally done draining. Close your petcock. Wipe off any splashed anti-freeze. 8. Place a radiator funnel in the cap opening. Should fit really nice, and be able to be pressed in tight. 9. Now I mix my 50/50 mix of Dexcool and distilled water. I use a measuring cup and an empty jug, to be precise. FIRST, I mix 2 cups dex with 2 cups dist water, pour that in the jug. Next, I mix 1/2 cup dex with 1/2 cup water, and dissolve my bars stop-leak into that... when that is thoroughly dissolved, I pour that in the jug. Now I cap the jug, and shake that vigorously... and then pour it in the surge tank. 10. Make more 50/50 mix. Pour that in the surge tank, "chasing" the pre-dissolved stop leak into the system... 11. When full, start the car. Spin your heater up to 90. It will pull some in. Keep topping it off. When it seems to be stabilized at a full level, rev the car. I rev it in pulses, pushing it to 2500 or so, and letting it fall back down. Do that 4 or 5 times... 12. It will need more topping off, so go back to that... 13. Rev the car some more, as in step 11... 14. repeat steps 12 & 13 a few times, and it will stabilize at a full level.... by now, the temp guage will be pointing straight up, car is warmed up. 15. replace the surge tank cap. I then take it for a spin around the subdivision (2 miles or so) in second gear, revving and letting off. 16. Check your petcock for leaks, shouldn't be any... Replace the black plastic cover and the 3 bolts... You're done! I'm going out to dinner tonight, so tomorrow morning, when the car is cold, I'll check my level again, I usually have to add a LITTLE more, but that should do it. When I check it again the next day, it's usually there.... Special thanks to Ranger, for that shop vac tip. That worked really good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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