coolnesss

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coolnesss last won the day on April 28 2013

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About coolnesss

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    Enthusiast (250+ posts)

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Profile Information

  • Location
    Hollywood, California and Acapulco, Mexico

Previous Fields

  • Car Model and Year
    2002 ETC Commemorative
  • Engine
    Northstar 4.6L V8 (LD8/L37)
  1. My DeVille Got Hit

    Yes, you're right it's unconscionable. Insurance companies used to be trusted, like banks, and that's not the case anymore. Insurers play the numbers, and they've found that it is not economical for them to fix the door on an older car. So, we have the option to take the money for the car, accept the salvage title, and fix the door. In many cases, people come out ahead doing that. But, not enough people know the tactic.
  2. Vacuum Leak in Dash - 2002 ETC

    It is audible at idle in the cabin. It's unmistakable.
  3. My DeVille Got Hit

    I am a lawyer in California, and we have alot of salvage title cars here. The car decreases in value, sometimes by alot, depending on the demand for the car. And, the older and more popular the car, it seems, the price difference can be very small. There are some insurance companies that will write collision and comprehensive coverage on a salvage car. Some won't. Then, if the car is totaled or badly damaged, the market value is less, but, it certainly has market value. A craigslist.org search on advanced google search, nationwide, for the make/model/year of the car with the word "salvage", will likely come up with salvaged cars for sale. Kelly Blue Book is not designed for the "sale" value of a car. It is for banks to use to determine how much they will loan on the purchase of a car. NADA guides and, to some degree, Edmunds, is a better guide for actual sale prices. But, I've found that craigslist ads can be a better source in some regions.
  4. My 2002 ETC had an oil leak that dropped onto the exhaust manifold, I guess, and smelled and made smoke. It was truly annoying. My mechanic told me to try Motor Purr. It worked. There was a noticeable decrease in a couple of weeks, and now, three or so months later, there doesn't seem to be a leak at all. No smoke, no smell, no adding a quart of oil every few weeks. I don't usually like additives, but, in the face of a several-thousand dollar tear-down on a car worth just a little more than that, I was tempted. I'm glad now I did it. http://motorpurr.com/tune-up/
  5. My 1996 LED taillight conversion

    I'm going to put LED bulb in the backup light for my 2002 Eldorado. There is an option for a car that requires a CAN bulb. Does my car require the CAN bulb designation? THANKS
  6. Vacuum Leak in Dash - 2002 ETC

    Thank you, Gentlemen. The parking brake works flawlessly. I use it everyday. I'm going to check under the glove box to start. I appreciate it!
  7. There's a soft vacuum leak sound coming from the dashboard area. My guess is that's it's the A/C system. Is this typical - how much of the dash do I have to take out to get to it, or should I let a tech do it? THANKS
  8. HI

    A few years ago you posted with a no-start conditions with PCM U1152 and RFA U1064.  I have those codes.  Did you ever figure out what caused those and what to do about them?

    THANKS

    Bill

    1. rockfangd

      rockfangd

      Hello.

      Last year I had a intermittent no start on my 97 Deville.

      Problem was the main battery cable from the battery to the driver side electrical center. It had been spliced and it rotted.

      those 2 codes you showed should not cause a no start condition if I am reading them right.

      Is it a no crank no start, or does it crank but not fire?

      What year and model?

    2. coolnesss

      coolnesss

      It starts, but I'm getting weird electrical stuff happening.  Seat controls are wonky, I can't get it through smog check, and I was wondering if that combination, which I have, was causing the same problem you had.  

      Thanks for your reply!

       

  9. I'm getting a host of what I think are electrical codes on my 2002 ETC. The seat position memory works intermittently and weird, and has been bad since I bought the car with 28,000 miles in 2009. It has 80k now. By weird I mean that sometimes it works, sometime the seat moves all the way forward; sometimes when I get back in the car the seatback is reclined all the way. It's random and intermittent. There's no logic or consistency. I'm getting a PCM 0741 code intermittently, however I've never noticed anything wonky with the torque converter from driving the car. And I drive fast and aggressively. I'm also getting a PCM 0420 regularly, although I had the catalytic converter replaced a couple of years ago, and it was a good converter. Here's the codes it threw yesterday: PCM P1545 current (didn't light up the service engine soon light)U1152 HistoryACM B1348 is current after reset. In fact, the A/C gas was low and I just got that fixed. But I've also gotten the clutch code, even though the compressor is about 4 months old.SDM B1327 historyRFA U1064 historyMSM B2115 historyB2118 historyB2119 historyB0856 historyB1983 historyB1656 history So, my question is whether the constellation of codes indicates there is a fundamental electrical problem with the car. I can't get it to pass smog, and I wonder if some like the clutch converter code and the loss of signal for the PCM can be electrical. HELP!
  10. Gentlemen, THANKS for all of this. It can't hurt to replace the freon sensor, so I'll do that. Kevin, the mechanic isn't charging me like that - he's honest but not the most knowledgable mechanic in the world, but I can depend on what he says, and when he says he doesn't know - which is what brought me here about this. The gas has been leak tested. It's not leaking - it's full. He did evacuate it and weigh what was in there. Can I test the voltage output of the battery by attaching multi-meter leads to the respective battery posts during cranking? The cranking has seemed to me to be slow for quite a while, but I took it to a regulation competent shop; they tested it with a fancy tester and said the battery and charging system is good. The cranking hasn't changed since then. I'll clean the cable ends and see what happens. Hmmmm.
  11. I have a 2002 ETC. 86k miles. I was getting ACM 1347 and the A/C turned itself off. I took it to the mechanic, and he recharged it and it worked for a few days, and then the code came back and turned off. The mechanic tested it, and the system is full and has the right pressures. Then after driving it a few days, I got ACM 1348, and it turned off. With the 1347 I was able to clear the code and the system worked perfectly for awhile. Mechanic says I need a sensor - does this make sense? And, if so, which sensor? He's not sure which sensor it needs. I don't expect it matters, but in case it does: I have multiple electric system codes - MSM B2115 history, MSM B2118 and B2119 history, MSM B1656 history, SDM 1327 history, RFA U1064 history, and recently, after the A/C thing started TCS 1286 and 1287 history, and just for fun PCM 0420. The 0420 goes away for awhile when I clear the code, finally comes back. THANKS.
  12. I have to replace the front struts on my 2002 ETC Eldorado with 85k miles. I like the ride to be right. Is there much percentage in purchasing new front springs? And the car's height is fine. THANKS in advance.
  13. Been Awhile. Few questions

    For the dash vents - WD-40. Works great on stuff like that.
  14. I'm putting new front shocks on a 2002 ETC. 80k miles. I decided not to use factory struts, so its a conversation to passive. Arnott advertises that their system is plug-in. Monroe apparently needs some fooling with. And, Monroe includes springs with the kit, whereas Arnott doesn't seem to. But, what concerns me more is - What is the difference in ride character between the two brands? I should get springs, right, if I order the Arnott struts? THANKS!