Norman L.

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About Norman L.

  • Rank
    Participant (30+ posts)

Previous Fields

  • Car Model and Year
    2001 Cadillac Deville
  • Engine
    Northstar 4.6L V8 (LD8/L37)
  1. Thanks for all of your help. I am limited to what I can do any longer so am throwing in the towel and taking the car to the mechanic who installed the fuel pump for me. I have been well pleased with his work in the past and have even recommended him on this website since he is well qualified with GM products especially Corvettes and Cadillacs in the Phoenix, AZ area.
  2. After mulling the situation a little bit I am wondering if the fuel system is losing it's prime somehow. The only time the hard starting occurs is when the car has set overnight and won't start until I have tried four or five times. It would appear the engine isn't getting fuel until the pump has forced gas to the engine in that period of time. Can a fuel system lose the prime. Back to the FPR, could it be leaking the fuel back down the main line if it is defective? I pulled the vacuum line off of the FPR as suggested above but it didn't shoot out any gas but maybe losing it's prime is different?????????? Please advise.
  3. Tried to start the car this morning and it hesitated but did start. Tried again and same problem. Tries to start and then suddenly dies. Still no codes. Checked the FPR as suggested above by pulling the vacuum hose and rev the engine. No sign of gas coming out. Went to the local Buick dealer and bought a new fuel pump relay and installed it. Engine still has a hard time starting and when it did, I revved it a little and it stumbled and had a funny noise like an internal backfire. That leaves the plenum thing but it doesn't seem that the symptoms that I describe would be contributed so drastically by a leak in the plenum. I could see a rough engine but not a repeated hard start. Any other suggestions? If not, guess I will have to take it back to the mechanic but hate to keep dumping money into it since I am so anxious to sell it as noted in my original post. Thanks again, you have all been very helpful.
  4. Thanks guys, these tips have helped a lot so will check them out in the next few days.
  5. I tried to start the car again a few minutes ago and it started fine this time. Without shutting the engine off, I checked the codes and nothing came up. I then pulled the vanity cover off and think I found the FPR at the right side of the rear fuel rail. It has a tiny 1/8" X 6" rubber tube that connects to the intake air portion of the engine. When I removed the tube, there was only a very faint, hardly noticeable, smell of gas. After reading Jim's post above, it seems like the fuel pump relay could be the culprit since what he describes is exactly what happen when I tried to start the engine earlier today. Is this relay located under the seat by the battery? If so, is this like a pull out/push in device like a fuse? Can it be visually be checked to see if it is working or should I just buy a new one? Wouldn't think the cost would be that much??????? I really appreciate everyone's help with this since I am an old geezer and need all the help I can get. If all of this fails and I need to go back to the rubber plenum option, is the intake a problem to R & R? Looks like the fuel rails would need to be removed??? New gaskets required? Might be better off going back to the shop. Thanks.
  6. As I feared, when I tried to start the car this morning, it wouldn't start. Same symptoms as original. Cranks good and tries to start but immediately dies. Tried it four times this morning!!! Very frustrated especially since I am trying to sell it. What is a FPR? If there is a gasoline smell, is this something that I can replace myself? Dealer part? If not and I need to return it to my mechanic, would it be safe to drive 25 to 30 miles? Very frustrated at this point since I spent over $400 for a new fuel pump.
  7. The photo would indicate that since the part has a band clamp around it, this could be an easy fix but with my luck it isn't. Can it be removed to check it's condition without removing adjacent parts on either end of the plenum? Also, the engine and transmission was dropped within the last month to replace the transmission solenoid and torque converter. Could the symptoms described be a result of anything done during that procedure?
  8. The other morning when I tried to start my 2001 Deville, the engine cranked o.k. and it felt like the engine was going to start but would immediately die. It took five tries before it finally started. I called my mechanic and he thought it was probably a fuel pump. Although I was afraid it might die on the road, I took a chance and drove to his shop (25 miles away) and left it. The mechanic called the following morning and said that the fuel pressure was around 30 but should be about 40 and felt that the problem was the fuel pump. I authorized him to install the pump and he did so along with a new filter. Oh I forgot to mention that there were no DIC codes showing either before or after the pump was installed. The car had been running a little rough prior to this incident and the idle seemed to run a little fast occasionally. Also, the car is being readied for sale and a few weeks ago, I sprayed de-greaser on the engine and hosed it down to clean the engine compartment. Maybe there is moisture somewhere? This was all mentioned to the mechanic as well. When I started the car this morning, it hesitated briefly before starting and then stumbled once before running. I shut the engine off and started it again a few more times without any problems. Will try again in the morning when the engine is cold to see what happens. It would appear that the original problem has not been solved though. Checked the codes again and nothing comes up. Would appreciate any suggestions. By the way, if anyone is looking for a beautiful 2001 Crimson Pearl Deville in the Phoenix or Southern CA area (a sticker on the engine says it complies with CA requirements), let me know (116,800 miles but in great shape). I need to sell it since I have the opportunity to buy a 2007 Buick LaCrosse with only 8,600 miles on it from my brother-in-law's estate. Really hate to part with the Deville but can't pass up the Buick. e-mail me at nsteiner@costreview.com for photos and list of features if interested.
  9. The service engine light came on in my 2001 Deville and after checking the computer codes, code PO741 came up indicating "TCC System Stuck Off" . However, I can't find anything about this system in the forum or what this code means. Could someone please enlighten me? Thanks
  10. I had the same problem a few years ago. Try disconnecting your battery for ten minutes, re-connect and try again. As I understand it, this procedure reboots the computer. Sounds odd but it worked for me. Good luck.
  11. I am in the process of installing a new window regulator in the passenger side of a 2001 Deville and am nearly finished. However, I need to know how to adjust the glass in the track (fore and aft) before I tighten the two bolts holding the glass in the regulator. I remember that when I did this on another regulator earlier, I recall that glass should be slid to the furthest point in the window track and then back off about 1/8 of an inch before tightening the bolts. Can't remember if this was at the front of the glass or at the rear so would appreciate it if someone could answer this question A.S.A.P. since I want to minimize wind noise and don't want to remove the door panel again if I do in incorrectly. By the way, from all of the posts that I have read, it seems like nearly everyone has had problems with Cadillac window regulators. After this one, I will have replaced all four. They always fail when I am on a long trip so I keep some tape in the truck now and when it happens I can tape the glass up until I get back home. Problem could have been prevented years ago with a metal cable part instead of the cheap plastic that Cadillac has been using.
  12. I recently (five weeks ago) had a GM Certified mechanic do a reseal (top and bottom) job on my 2001 Deville. No leaks and seems to be working fine. However, a week or so ago, my wife asked, "what is that noise" and described that she was hearing a pump or fan noise somewhere in the engine area at the driver side. I have to admit that my hearing isn't all that good for high frequencies and all I can hear is something that sounds like the sound in a person's house when the water is on. I turned the AC off and she still hears it. She mentions that when I rev the engine up (whether in motion or parked) she can hear the sound increase in intensity. I have checked the codes and nothing comes up. I also checked the intake boot to the engine from the air filter and nothing. So far I have narrowed it down to an engine sound but am stymied as to what it could be. The only thing I can think is that it may be a water pump. Do these make a sound prior to failing? Maybe a bearing? I did have a new water pump installed about ten or fifteen thousand miles ago as well as the intake boot into the intake manifold (not sure what this is called but it is beyond the one attached to the air filter). I know this isn't much to go on so your opinions would be helpful. I hate to take the car back to the mechanic since it is nearly a thirty mile drive (one way) based on "a sound my wife hears". Could be a male thing too and hate to drive the car since all I hear is "you mean you can't hear that?".
  13. Over the last three years, I have had to replace three different window regulators in my 2001 Deville so am waiting for the fourth one to go now. Could be the 115 degree heat here in Arizona but the plastic parts that are part of the regulator's cable break. Even after replacing three of these, I really hate trying to pull the outside door panel off since I always break some of the plastic attachment devices (even with written instructions, a proper tool and trying to be careful). The local GM dealer wants four dollars for a package of two by the way.
  14. AZ Mechanic recommendation

    I don't know what a block girdle is and don't have a clue as to what he did regarding that. Would assume thought that he would have done what was recommended.
  15. AZ Mechanic recommendation

    The entire job was $1,500 and included removing the motor with cradle assembly (assume that the transmission was removed at some point), resealed the two piece lower case(s) including the crank seal, timing cover gasket, oil filter gasket, valve cover gaskets, intake manifold gasket, coolant crossover gaskets (which I had to have installed at a dealership to the tune of $900 two years ago). Not sure if he had to replace the intake boot or just re-install it but I had to have a new one installed in 2010 by a dealer ($370). As mentioned in my original post, I don't know what a dealer would charge but would assume probably around double what I paid. I asked about Time-serts or studs for the heads and he said that he didn't feel that they were necessary at this time due to the year of the car and mileage (105,000). It would have cost an additional $1,000 if I would have had the heads done at this same time. By they way, he guarantees a combination engine re-seal and head studs for Five years or 100,000 miles (Twelve months for just the re-seal). In all fairness to dealers charges, they have a tremendous outlay of overhead costs with salaries of not only the mechanics but service writers, go-fers, car wash people, parts people, parts inventory, building cost, etc. etc. as well as they are entitled to a legitimate profit. Those costs have to be reimbursed somewhere and the customer ultimately is where it comes from. In short, I am very satisfied with the job as well as the costs and feel fortunate to have found this guy since I hate to pay dealer prices.