Gene

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About Gene

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  • Car Model and Year
    93 ETC 96 STS 66 Eldorado
  1. VATS Problem!

    I was surfing the net and came across this solution for relearnig the Pass Key Module! You turn on the ignition and wait for the Security light to go out and then turn the key off. You must repeat this 3 times for the module to learn the pellets value! Any one heard of this? Here is the link! http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/...d.php?p=4384670 Gene
  2. VATS Problem!

    Well here`s the latest findings! The VATS has allready had a Override kit installed with a relay for the Remote Start! So that eliminates the pellet in the key and the ignition switch! I am now just wondering about the relay that was part of the Override kit! That could be my intermittent problem? My readings at the Pass Key module were within 2 ohms of the all the keys values! So i am down to 2 choices now! 1. The Pass Key Module needs replaced! 2. The Remote Start has issues affecting the VATS! Possibly a weak connection? When i spoke to the Remote Starter installer on Friday...he was more than willing for me to bring the car in to be looked and said they could fix it! So this must be a common issue! Will call on Monday! I am thinking they will just replace the VATS override relay as a trouble shooting starting point. Regards Gene
  3. VATS Problem!

    Hello! It`s been 2 days now and what i am doing is leving the can running for my quick stops and just locking the doors! The ETC is working just fine! I am hoping to get some dianogitic time this Saturday! But if it is working i am not sure how i will find the problem! I am considering the passkey module! Since i have a remote start system and the key is not needed. When the car acts up niether method of starting will work. I have cleaned the key reader in the ignition switch and uplugged the connector at the Pass Key module and reconnected them. So i guess Saturday will be starting the car every 10-15 minutes till it fails then we can check the reading at the base of the steering column and at the PassKey module. Plus i have noticed while driving that the security light is staying on sometimes for the entire ignition cycle (running till i shut off the car) but still is starting! Thanks Gene
  4. VATS Problem!

    Hello Everyone! I am having a intermittent problem with the VATS on my 93 ETC. The ETC will work for several days then not! I have found that after many 3 minute attemps with the remote start and 4 different keys that by leaving the car for about 30-45 minutes the ETC will start. When i try starting my ETC it would display in the DIC "car won't start due to theft system" message. It then proceeded to tell me to "wait 3 minutes" and then start the car. So I waited for the 3 minute timer to tell me it was OK to start the car. At this time i'd try to start the car it wouldn't start with the key it would act like it was a dead battery. Today i just keep trying for about 90 minutes and had no luck. I even tried to use the remote starter function and it would try for several times to start till i canceled the remote starter function. I have noticed that while the VATS is cooperating (car will start) the Security light is on sometimes while driving but not always. I stopped at the Caddy Dealer today and was told there are 2 possible modules to replace. The cost is 160 dollars and 350 dollars. This was for the modules and not the ignition switch. I am going to try and follow the shop manual tonight or tomorrow. Has any one else had this problem? I did a couple of searches in the archives but didn`t find the answer! Any suggestions! Thanks Gene
  5. I have thought about the struts. there is 165K on the Eldorado now! My roads are normal! I got almost 150K out of the original links! I have looked for the struts and have only found one set on ebay for my ETC. I know they need freshened up! I am thinking that i got a defective part the second time around but i figured on not having to replace them again! Thanks Gene
  6. Hello I had posted before about the durability of Moog stabilizer bar links and wanted to give a update! The replacement links only lasted about 200 miles and i just got around to replacing it! The passenger side was shot on the bottom! Rattle,Rattle! So i replaced it today and my links are tight and much quieter! The sway bar mounts are new from before and still look good! The problem is i am still having a rattle when the suspension goes over a rough road. Especially on a series of patched potholes like a washboard. I have checked everything out and the only odd thing i see is that the drive axle on the drivers side where the half shaft yoke goes into the transaxle will move about a 1/8 of an inch when i pry on it! But with not miuch force! Could this be my new rattlek/nocking? Has anyone had a problem with this? Here is my previous post Hello I have a 93 Eldorado and i replaced the Stabilizer Bar Links last April 2005 aand they are rattling again! Yes they have zerk fitting that get greased every oil change(3000 miles). I was hoping that they would last alot longer! The passenger side on the bottom is the worst! Yes i know they will replace them! But i didn`t want to that job again as i allready did the job once! At this point i am thinking i should have went to the dealer for OE ones! I have only 17,000 miles on this set! How long have yours lasted? OE and Moog. Thanks Gene
  7. Hello The links are for the front! I also relaced the front sway bar bushings that go on the frame. I still had a faint rattle once i replaced the links so that is why the bushings were replaced!. So my bushings are somewhat new! That rattle just drives me Nuts! I will call today about getting a replacement. Thanks Gene
  8. Hello I have a 93 Eldorado and i replaced the Stabilizer Bar Links last April 2005 aand they are rattling again! Yes they have zerk fitting that get greased every oil change(3000 miles). I was hoping that they would last alot longer! The passenger side on the bottom is the worst! Yes i know they will replace them! But i didn`t want to that job again as i allready did the job once! At this point i am thinking i should have went to the dealer for OE ones! I have only 17,000 miles on this set! How long have yours lasted? OE and Moog. Thanks Gene
  9. Hello KHE The code is PO76 which is trans axle pressure control solenoid failure. This solenoid is not the A&B shift solenoids but upstream of the A&B solenoids. It`s location is inside the tranny by the dipstick. The A&B are easy to change....well almost! Thanks Gene
  10. Yes i understand that this will be a BIG job. I am guessing that the transaxle assembly cradle (engine/tranny) would have to be dropped as a unit just to change the tranny. The reason for the removal is a bad trans axle pressure control solenoid. I have been told by a couple tranny shops that they would not chance just changing the trans axle pressure control solenoid. They claim that a piece of debris is what caused the failure and without totally cleaning and rebuilding the tranny it would fail again in a short time! I know that the shift solenoids get changed without a problem but they say that the trans axle pressure control solenoid is different! When the trans axle pressure control solenoid goes bad it lets the trans FLASH..run witout fluid and the clutch plates get destroyed/burnt. Does anyone have any expirence with this problem or am i better off changinging the tranny? I have found a tranny at the boneyard for 400 bucks and it has 80K on it. The car is a 94 SLS 155K. What do you think? Thanks Gene 96 STS 93 ETC 66 ELDORADO
  11. Well i swaped out the PCM with a known good one and the tranny was the same! So its the Transaxle Pressure Control Solenoid for sure! Does anyone know if it possible to remove the transaxle side cover to access the solenoid without dropping the engine/tranny cradle? Maybe pulling the drivers strut and just lowering one side of the cradle would work? Thanks Gene
  12. I have a 93 Eldo that i was considering taking the PCM out of just to try to see if it is the PCM. Maybe this Firday if its fair out (not raining)! Thanks Gene
  13. Hello 2 weeks ago i changed the PCM because of a PO25 Fault. The car was ok for a week! Here`s what going on now with the SLS....When i picked it up i first noticed that when putting the car in reverse it hit hard/harsh. Then when put into drive it hit very hard again but drove normal till warmed up aprox 10 minutes. While driving down my road almost to my house i thought it jumped out of gear but just as i looked it slammed back into gear and then seemed to freewheel if you were coasting down a grade. The Service Soon lite was on as soon as i started the car. When i stopped i pulled the following codes...PO39 History (TTC Engagement Problem),PO76 History (Transaxle Pressure Control Solenoid) and PO 86 Current (Undefined Gear Ratio). I cleared the codes and then drove more and the Service Soon lite stayed on. While driving in drive the car would act like you were placing it in neutral and back into drive constantly while driving. If you place the gearshift in 3 the transmission would start out in 2nd gear and not shift at all. At this time the only code was a PO86. Could the Transaxle Pressure Control Solenoid be bad or could the PCM be bad as the PCM controls the Transaxle Control Pressure Solenoid. Has anyone expirenced this problem? The SLS has 155K. The fluid is on the full mark. Thanks Gene
  14. 94 Seville SLS PO25 code

    Well heres the update....After a morning of checking out the electronics and using my 93 as a parts car the culprit was the PCM. I called my dealer and my price for a PCM was 185 and AutoZone was 212 this was more than she wanted to spend just now. So i called the Bone yards and what a price spread...50-125 for the PCM. I went with the one for 50 dollars and it was not on the shelf as he stated and couldn`t find one. He was very busy and that one would have to be pulled from a car. So i offered to pull it if i could have a 7mm nut driver. After i pulled the PCM he knocked another 10 off and i got the PCM for 40 dollars with a 30 day warranty. The car runs great now! BUT on the way to return the car i gave it some WOT and it will go to 4800 RPM and stumble then softly shift and then blast off again in second gear but went past 4800 rpm with no problem but i only could go to 70 mph because i was in town and there was traffic. I did this only twice as i close to dropping of the car and didn`t have time to play... SORRY i meant to say diagnose the problem. Both times the car stumbled at 4800 RPM then shited and took off in second. I will have to work on it some more. Any ideas? Also took a little time to figure how to override the CHANGE TRANSAXLE FLUID message in the DIC. GENE