cadillacjeff7777

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cadillacjeff7777 last won the day on January 25

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About cadillacjeff7777

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    Old Timer (500+ posts)
  • Birthday 08/07/1978

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    XSTIFFDOGX
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    chevy4x4burb@gmail.com
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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Tulsa, OK (previously Cedar Springs, MI)
  • Interests
    Cadillacs, Politics, and Theology...Oh, and GUNS!

Previous Fields

  • Car Model and Year
    2008 DTS
  • Engine
    Northstar 4.6L V8 (LD8/L37)

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  1. 4 note horns

    Well, maybe I'll eBay off this set to the next unsuspecting person. :/
  2. 4 note horns

    Sorry, I forgot to mention how the horns integrated. They are ran though a relay that is triggered via the + wire of the factory horn circuit. I did not notice if the horns were smaller than my louder 1 wire ones but I did test each right off of the battery before installation and the 2 wire ones are noticeably quieter.
  3. 4 note horns

    Well, I've them wired 2 and 2 going to 14 gauge wire and then splicing together into a single 14 gauge wire that passes through a 30 amp fuse and then off of the B+ lug on the under hood fuse box. I guess that I'll trash these 2 wire ones and order up a set of one wire.
  4. I've received a set of 2 wire A, C, D, anf F horns and a set of 1 wire. Any reason that I'd find the 1 wire louder than the 2 wire?
  5. Nice cars... I really like the LED's that change color on the 2012.. How did you do that?? Well, there are two answers. All but one of the headlight pics were with the original OEM light pipe halo. They come factory with a single white LED. If you remove the HID ballast and remove the access port cap, you can get a torx in there and unscrew the heatsink from the LED. It requires a 1/4" swivel, a couple different length torx bits, a lot of patience, and a few prayers. Then you can install an RGB LED. When you fire the red green and blue simulataniously, you will get get white. I ran those LEDs to a new NightOwl controller. My updated pic that shows the double halos in the headlight...Those I had to actually disassemble the headlight assemblies. You place each one in a preheated oven at 225 for 20 minutes. Any longer and you'll jack up the headlight assembly. After the 20 minutes, you carefully pry apart the lens from the assembly. It easily comes loose. Then you need to reform any deformaties while the plastic is still warm and plyable. I then unscrewed and removed the RGB LED, heatsink, and OEM light pipe halo. I replaced the halo with an RGB halo ring and secured it with Gorilla 5000lbs 2 part epoxy. I then affixed the inner halos with the same epoxy. Routed the new RGB cables out the back and resealed the opening as well as the lens to the housing. Ran to a new NightOwl controller. The lower lights are the DRLs. Those were actually a little trickier. They involved carefullt cutting the lens off of the assemblies, siliconing in RGB halo rings, and resealing. Those too were ran to a NightOwl controller. Those controllers also control RGB LED strips on the back of the steel bumper that reflect through the grille areas. I can configure this light system to do all types of patterns and programs. It's really cool when we take it to the car shows. Other mods are the tail lights have been tinted with Night Shade and cleared over, the mufflers have been deleted, a Cold Air Inductions cold air intake was installed, the front fascia, grille, etc have been switched to GM authentic ZL1 parts, and the ZL1 rockers have been swapped on the sides. The wheels have been replaced and the car is running 275/40/20 up front and 315/35/20 in the rear. All Nitto NT05. The car has had a Viper 5906v system installed with a DSM250 GPS/3G module. Windows all tinted 7% except windshield. Our near future mods are the hood will be replaced with a VIS terminator hood and the rear is going to be tore down and redone with 2014 ZL1 parts including the one piece RS LED tail lights.
  6. This is the 2012: http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/jgray1978/library/2012%20Chevrolet%202SS%20RS%20Camaro%2045th%20Anniversary This is the 2014: http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/jgray1978/library/2014%20Chevrolet%202SS%20RS%20Camaro
  7. Well, she's gone. The wife is driving a 2014 Camaro 2SS/RS Coupe. I've got a 2012 Camaro 2SS/RS 45th Anniversary convertible myself. I'll hang around here for a bit if no one minds as I imagine that I will be back in the Cadillac family soon enough. This was my 4th and probably not my last.
  8. I'm a member of the Oklahoma Camaros club and the owner of this Dealership is also a member. He has an excelent reputation in Tulsa as well as in our club. I am a Shriner as well and our Shrine organization is a patron of this dealership...So I'm comfortable with them. We've had service done there many times on our Impala and Camaro.
  9. Is it the same dealer that botched the intake manifild R&R? Hell no! lol
  10. Oh, and the DIC has a message about low washer fluid all of the time...And the washer fluid res is full. Not a big deal but goes with the underlying theme of diminished quality.
  11. Well, the water pump was failure pure and simple. The intake was the tech's fault and the transmission is suspected to be the same. The torque strut and P/S hose are again failure. The heated seat problem is also failure as well as the strut bearings that clunk every time we turn the wheel.
  12. Well, I'm in talks with the dealer about trading this car in. I've just about had my fill of it...
  13. Yes, the water pump seized up. The power steering line had 3 pin holes.
  14. Done. Not my favorite way to spend a Sunday afternoon but not horrible. I did end up having to loosen the front cradle bolts, removery the rears, and Jack the car up, dropping the drive train.there just wasn't enough room behind the engine. That said, I am soooooo tired of this car breaking down. Recent weeks it has been broken down more than it has been running. In less than a year, I have replaced a water pump, intake, transmission, power steering line, and the torque strut. It had betier not break soon!
  15. It looks easy enough. Looks like a retainer in the middle underneath and another retainer about the right side of the rack. Unscrew the fittings on both ends and remove. Do I need to bleed this thing once the new line is installed or will it bleed on its own?