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babylon_nl last won the day on July 15

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About babylon_nl

  • Rank
    Fanatic (50+ posts)

Previous Fields

  • Car Model and Year
    2002 Deville
  • Engine
    Northstar 4.6L V8 (LD8/L37)
  1. So I was looking for pictures and all that and found the distributor of this tool and figured what the heck, it's a crazy expensive tool, let them explaint it to me. We worked out the values for the top pictures only and I kid you not, that took 30 minutes after i emailed them the pictures hahahaha we came tot he conclusion: top reads 93.040mm bottom reads 92.925mm which brings taper to 0.115mm to reverse engine this value we concluded that from the top ring of the tool, each click (big-to-small stripe) is 0.005mm, We 14.5 stripes to get to 0 and we did 8 stripes to get to 4, a total of 22.5 stripes x 0.005mm = 0.1125mm and that's a match! unfortunately 0.1mm tolerance and 0.1125 are NOT within specs.. the other cylinder is only 4.5 stripes difference, x0.005 = 0.0225mm taper and that's WELL within specs and indeed not as far as bad as the other one.. LONG time ago i made this little movie with the head-movement: If you would find these measures and look at the movie, what would your suggestion be about the underside of the block? The feeling creeps up at me that i'm in need of a new block.. how's your thoughts on that? I think I cant do just the 'bad' cylinder(s) (didnt measure all 8 but i'm assuming things wont look brighter after) and didn do the other measures, but i'd say it's very likely this block is just past it's lifespan.. and I'm thinking they already replaced the engine with a far worse one than the original 275.000km block that is supposed to be in there.. looking at the contamination on the valves we're thinking the block has ran either double the amount of km's, or or perhaps even AND on propane which would make sense in our part of the world... Feeling a bit sad, I ask: what's your thoughts on this?
  2. So... new news today after holiday breaks and all... @OldCadTech we measured the folowing bore taper, as in the picture and to me it looks like: cyl1: lower measure - 92.927, upper measure - 93.004, means taper is 0,077mm cyl2: lower measure - 93.0007, upper measure - 93.003, means taper is 0,0023mm Neither me nor my mechanic ever worked with this tool! Rationalizing, it says 1 div. 0.005mm, so we asume one click is 0.005mm, there are 50 clicks in one twist. Cylinder a: We come from (something)click 42.7 and go to (something+1)click 4, so we turned the wheel 7.3 clicks to go to 0, than another 4 clicks, a total of 11.3 clicks that means the taper is 11.3x0.005mm= 0.0565mm Cylinder b: We come from (something) click 0.7 and go to (something) click 4, so we turned the wheel 3.3 clicks. that means the taper is 3.3x0.005mm=.0.0165mm I'm going crazy over this, how come these calculations are not equal, what am I doing wrong? It looks like it's within the 0.1mm tolerance.. but is it? Anybody?
  3. Unreal.. I would think most internet based services are abondoning the idea they're God's gift to the internet, photobucket reinvented the wheel so it seems...
  4. You serious man!? four hundred bucks a year... omg, i am renting a virtual private server with unlimited data and next to unlimited storage for 40,- a year.. i didnt even read that mail to be frank, I was actually done reading after the header that said 'some features will be disabled'.. bizar... I already was very anoyed cuz i had to dig thru a ton of commercials before i'd reach my pictures, but i figured well, since it serves a purpose, why not... but this is seriously messed up haha.. thanks for the info...
  5. What the heck... WE NOTICED THAT YOU HAVE BEEN USING PHOTOBUCKET FOR 3RD PARTY HOSTING What is 3rd Party Hosting? Photobucket defines 3rd party hosting as the action of embedding an image or photo onto another website. For example, using the <img> tag to embed or display a JPEG image from your Photobucket account on another website such as a forum, Etsy, eBay auction listings, a blog, etc. is definitively 3rd party hosting. well, guess that's it for photobucket than hahaha.. sorry for the blank gaps that will inevitably come to my former postings
  6. I am told propane combustion is much hotter than regular gas.. so it would make sense.. I see he's claiming an engine would last longer on propane, I dont know where he got that info, I know next to nothing about engines, but I know that if you find a low mileage propane car, it's a fraud (because the prope instalation and tax are considereable and should weigh to the amount of miles you're driving) and if you find a high mileage propane care, you dont want to touch it, because it's very likely to have problems soon.. My dad's 79 and 86 caprices ran perfectly fine on propane, but i guess they dont really compare to modern engines...
  7. I'm curious about what you're saying, as it was another friend who looked at the heads and he told me the seats were next to non-existant.. Now I really want to have pictures of 'm
  8. It did... I dont know.. it's what i'm told.. It was also suggested that maybe the car has ran on propane in the past..that's very common around here, particulary on big engines.. but since there's no evidence at all to support that (in the car I mean, no traces of a propane tank or aditional piping and stuff), it was sugested that maybe engine itself was replaced in the past.. and with that, anything we know about the engine turns into a questionmark.. but you are right, it did idle smooth.. except for the first few seconds upon cold start... I'll try and get some pictures of the valve seats...
  9. @BodybyFisher - He did thanks! @barczy01 - most important reason is the valve seats are next-to-gone.. trying to get some pictures of that, Rebuilding the heads exceeds the price of the new heads by far (in facti it's almost double) and frankly, it gives me a much better feeling to know they're new, than to have them worked on.. I guess working on them will never make them as good as new, right?
  10. No word from Jake yet, meanwhile I have an important question for you all...
  11. hahaha.. mind you, the borg may be considered the Cadillac under the alien species... pure luxery and way ahead of our times I'm up for a new head!! And my car will need 2, we ran the tolerancies (thanksssss!!!) and didnt even bother to bring it to a specialist.. the seats are.. well.. actually they are not, they are missing, gone so to speak, by phone it's estimated a repair to the head will be roughly 800 euro's (say 1000 dollar).. and that's just the necessary work done, no extra's no further neweties.. I'm awaiting Jake's offer for the lumb-sum so we can start building again @OldCadTech thank you again, we'll run those measures as well and get back with our findings, that's what we'll be doing till I hear from Jake I suppose
  12. haha I really feel stupid, it's great you take this effort of replying (safely i hope!) from your car.. Yes, we want all available seals and stuff we can get to replace, that's money wise peanuts. Jake made a list of items he can supply, the rest I will be ordering from rockauto, just not sure about the rack, have to still shop around for that. But i havent ordered yet, I'm awaiting Jake's offer for the total package he can supply, but this is the initial list: From Jake: Cylinder Head Stud Kit for Northstar V8 - full kit Oil Pan Gasket Crankshaft Seal - front set Oil Filter Timing Chain Guide - (original GM part, identical to Cloyes 95310) This will be most of the rest of our most wanted list (rockauto) Tensioner Pulley - source from Rockauto Starter Motor -- Source from RockAuto Fuel Filter - Source from RockAuto Cylinder Head Bolt - Not needed if you purchase our head stud kit Air Filter - Source from RockAuto Hydraulic lines - source from Rockauto Belts - Source from Rockauto we didnt order anything yet, as i'm still awaiting Jake, but i'm making it difficult for him too, cuz i asked for the rack as well.. I'm seriously considering therapie haha, but i dont really have time as I need mail around for the car hahaha
  13. jah, true that,but but but... no, i'm overthinking things, sorry about that, agreed, with the specs to be double sure, it should be good... and apart from the cilinders, there's nothing to have nightmares about? It's probably a huge difference in price (i guess? double? x2.5, x3?) but what if... NO RON.. QUIT IT.. leave it to those who know.. Oh yes, agreed, yes, will do... Did anybody say 'therapy'?
  14. I read your tekst 5 times @BodybyFisher but i seriously have no clue what it means you're asking My thoughts now are quite simple: measure the tollerances and if it's anywhere a questionmark and if someone threatens me that works need be done on them, i'll have the new heads, plain and simple. We have not discussed the rest of the block, that's why my thoughts went there... not held back by any knowledge on engine at all, i just posted my question, maybe i shouldnt have, i'm very happy with the support you guys are giving me and I dont want to overstay my welcome.. I'll run it past my techfriend i'm pretty sure he can make sense of it, as far as I can tell is we have 'smartshops' here that sell magic mushrooms and they make you forget about any car problem you might have.. in fact, they make you forget about your car at all, but i think they not the same thing @OldCadTech thanks, that is a very reasuring answer, I needed that haha, yes, i trust the guy who's working on it, but I also know he's never worked on an engine like this and as he is a friend as well, i think it would be horrible if the whole thing is back together again and we find after 2 months that we kinda forgot some thingemajigger and we can start from scratch, hence my thought: new heads means 100% ok on the heads, new block means 100% ok on the block, it's clear now it's gonna cost, if for say 1500,- more i have a car that i like a lot and can drive without a problem for 10 years, it's roughly 15 bucks per month extra, who's complaining? But, cool, thanks both of you again, we'll keep going as we go, i'm pretty sure on the head issue, as it was said earlier, it sounds like deal and if the work on them is more than cleaning them, we should go for the new heads. if we can do some definate measuring on the rest of the block so we'll know we're good there it'd be great, there's no mayor parts that could or should be replaced or checked, as the heads did their time, the rest of the block obviously did too.. i guess i just hate surprises @OldCadTech 'Case halves would be a must do' - what are case halves and what must be done? It would make me feel very happy if you have some specs on the lower block and I agree with you, some therapy would be in order.. or a crash course in car mechanics, that might clear my head too haha well, by the time it's all done, i'm half way a tech my self by word at least haha.. Offcourse I talk to people about this project and the most common reaction is: why dont you just buy a new or good second hand car, why put so much time, money and energy in a yank-tank? I'll just frown and look at their car, usually something like this, and I go like sure, a 1 litre 3 cilinder car has advantages all over the place, but i don't know... let's just say it's a feeling one has for a car..some are a 'yes' and some are a 'no'.. Mine's a 'yes'