Olle

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About Olle

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    Participant (30+ posts)

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  • Car Model and Year
    STS 1994
  • Engine
    NORTHSTAR 4.6L V8 VVT (LH2)

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  1. Car still runs great after a trip of about a 100 miles, And, the code for idle relearn process (P080) actually cleared itself after being sitting in traffic for half an hour...so, no SES light or stumbling at the moment, runs like a charm.. 35 to 43 degrees (F) here this coming week, not too bad, believe me, it can get A LOT worse this time of year. Merry Christmas, /Olle
  2. Hello Mike and everyone, (and thanks for the offer on cheap left-over parts Mike!) I just thought I´d "loop back" with some finding regardning my Crank Sensor problem..This is an interesteting one! Ive been having an intermittent fault code (code 083) and SES light blinking lately on and off . you could feel engine bucking as the SES light was flickering..etc Yesterday I installed new sensors (Delphi) but it made absolutely no change or improvement ! hmmm.. ( Im starting to get pretty quick with removing and installing these crank-sensors at this point..mind you, for better or worse) So, looked in the service manual, and next step could be cabling/ and or Coilpack, checked cables, installed a different Coil pack, no change. So, "Last resort" according to service manual was to change computer, so I did, along with original 94 STS "Prom" swapped over naturally.. And, low and behold, no more code 083 and car idles smooth as silk!? funny...the ecm im using now is from a 93 Eldorado, but prom is correct for my car. My guess is, (just a guess) that the Alternator trouble I had this fall where the faulty alternator wreaked havoc with the whole Engine Management System until the Alternator finally blew one day, might have "zapped" the original computer (ECM?) and it was never the same after? just a thought.. Anyway, it is intersting to notice the original ECM computer seems to have stopped reading the crank triggers/ignition (on/off) cousing intermitten problems. Like I said, with new computer engine idles just fine (despite asking for an idle relearn process (P080) and not a hint of Crank Trigger problems or stumbling idle etc. Im hoping it will stay this way now for the duration of the winter for which Im using the car.. Many thanks guys, Olle
  3. Finally !!! Got it running well again! Yesterday I found out what was wrong with it since installing the new Alternator. (2nd one, covered under warranty) You are not going to believe this,...but it was a miss from cylinder no 2, due to a freakin SPARK PLUG!! darn! Man, do I feel stupid.. ( but I will happily feel stupid if it makes the car run well again...hehe) You see, the ground electrode had probably gotten hit when I installed it again a few weeks ago, (I had to drop it in, due to lack of correct type/size plug socket) and then get it to catch the treads, maybe it hit aginst the "floor" of the head, and it closed the gap too much, electrodes were almost touching, resulting in a really feable spark, which would not fire the combustion thorougly, maybe like only 50% of the time?, hence It was missingbadly on cylinder no2. Took the plug out, re-gapped it, opened up the gap back to normal, put the plug back in, runs like a charm! haha! Unbelievable... It currently idles smoother then in has in a long long time, so at least I know I do not have a bad vaccuum leak, or screwed anything else up.. ( I seem to remember a test (swap) with another set of older stock plugs about a week ago, but is´s quite possible that old set was not up to par either, resulting in my switching back..I have no idea, it got too confusing with all the parts being interchanged left and right for the past month..) Driving it some 30 miles after the fix, it feels great, I do have one little fault code that pops up intermittently (083 current, with engine running yesterday) indicating a bad "crank sensor/trigger" so I might try and order 2 of those sensors new from Rock Auto and swap out later. But, interestingly, it has not had an affect on how it runs,,,yet... Thans for all your help! and being a 22 year old car, i`m sure I´ll be back soon with more questions..hehe.. Cheers, /Olle
  4. Thanks guys, yesterday I "ohms-measured" the leads to and also the actual Crank-triggers/sensors. They are identical, about 1K ohms to both of them loosening the connector at the coil pack, so, my estimation is nothing wrong there with cabling and most likely nothing wrong with triggers.. I also made sure the wireing at the coil-pack from triggers are clean and seem to contact good ( little pins etc).no codes now when test-driving. Sorry for my language here, but I will try to make sense with my somewhat limited car-vocabulary.. I took the car out for a 15 minute drive: I get the code "46" on the dash, as per usual ( no other codes, no crank trigger codes or anything) ..trying to find/google what the 46 flashing on the dash implies? Export code? no one really knows...could be Anti theft system, or...? another way of saying " left/right fuel imbalance" ? I do NOT have P046 code stored in ECM/computer as a trouble code... Did an Oxy sensor measurement/balance test: front bank is 135, rear is 119, is that really bad ? it starts up fast and idles, but quite rich, (nothing new).. then as it warms up stops smelling as rich, idle is a little rough but not terrible, but I would´nt say it sound totally "100% healty", listen to the sound clip- if you follow me?... short clip, one pipe. It almost sounds like terrible misfire, or, Worse yet, I have a valve problem of sorts ? Why ? I´m beginning to suspect I have a valve problem!! or something mechanical? why is beyond me? I have not mashed the pedal in years.. But I guess anything is possible, Need to make a compression test on all cylinders, tricky, I can not fit my copression test tool in there, its too tight.. Thanks a Lot! Caridle.mp2
  5. Ok, I will check later, I know were the triggers are, Ive removed / changed them before..
  6. And, Ive done a crank triggers swap on the car before, tricky job, but it never ran this bad (or like this) when those were showing up as codes on the display while driving. cheers, /Olle
  7. Hello, I just tried a different and better battery, load checked ok, more power from it, BUT, no change in how engine runs.. So, problem is not battery-condition related... No, not a lot of fuel around inside intake manifold when I lifted and removed the cover, looked ok. I thought about it and inspected for raw fuel before I removed the rails and injectors..looked dry/ok to me?.. I have a completely diffrent new coil pack on it ( verified to work not long ago I swapped with) no change.. A fuel pressure.gage and later check fuel pressure might be possible to obtain, but not right now, it will have to wait.. I changed the fuel filter for a new one 3 weeks ago. motor bucks and jerks on the highway pretty bad, ( I was just out today) but when you give it gas, it smooths out ..weird.. The SES light came on breifly, like for 1 minute, the went away while driving... only code running display diagnostics after I stopped today is HISTORY something"83" ( crank triggers, am I right?) I did not get code 46 for 10 minutes while driving, but it bucked and jerked just as usual anyway.. I stopped and gave it some fresh gas, no change.. I´m leaning against fuel related right now, but need a break from trouble shooting.. Believe me, Ive searched high and low for vacuum leaks, havent located any, yet.. /Ollie
  8. It sounds like you are missed at idle and the miss goes away up the rpm range correct? CORRECT Overtightening the intake bolts is not better. How did the intake seals look, any damage? Nope, and wiped them clean. Did you tighten the 12 bolts around the perimeter of the intake also? TORQUED TO SPEC 13 Nm, Has the throttle body been off?, No, never. have the throttle body's bolts been snugged up? Yep, I would say so. Have you checked the fuel pressure? No, have not. Have you checked for vacuum leaks? yes, can not detect anything, but that doesnt mmean I do not have a vaccum leak...more serching needed, perhaps.. Do you smell fuel at the exhaust at idle? not to much, but some, car has smelled of unburnt gas, (when cold) for years, but still ran well. Are you using synthetic oil?,yes, semi synthetic, for years. and what viscosity? 10/40 Have you checked the coils?, coil towers for corrosion?, looks good. to my eyes. I think your battery is ok at 11 underload but just bearly, but it passed a load test correct? yes, according to instrument 11 is still ok, below 11 not totally acceptable..according to its scale.. Thanks!
  9. Hello, Update:I did remove the top intake cover, swapped out the injectors again, and Maf, cleaned the surfaces and gaskets etc, bolted it back on again. torqued to specs, also torqued the 4 main intake bolts a bit harder yet. also, checked spark and spark wires. used a "spark tester" on the engine´s front plugs (quick check) and they all fire with the same intensity. Unfortunately, no major change with any of these changes / fixes. Here is the current situation, took the car out for a test drive. At light throttle it has a bit of a "steam train" thing to it, "chugg chugg"... but it runs, albeit not smootly.. It is almost like it would run on "bad/faul gasoline" type thing.? No codes, (besides that 46, mentioned before, that pops up now and then) The car def has a miss at idle and up round 2k, then further up in revvs it seems better.. BUT, once I press the accelerator and give it more gas, or accelerate hard, even under load - such as up a hill, kick down, it smooths out and runs quite strong! miss is not as prevalent or noticable.. car actually takes off without too much trouble...it appears good like that? funny...? So, heres a situation where car runs better when you give it gas (plenty) but not under light load and at idle, then it misses. Question: Concerning the battery in the car. I did test the battery under load (we call it "the grill") ("stress test"), it is borderline acceptable according to instrument/tester, Fully charged, it goes from 12.2 to 11.0 under "stress", and according to instrument/tester that voltage value is just threshold within acceptable.. borderline.. Not perfect, but does pass the test according to guy/mechanic I spoke to..what do I know...? Actual Question: Can a bad/old battery itself (despite a good Alternator/generator) cause the car to run rough at idle and up to 2.5 ks ? Im thinking that the battery acts like a "buffer"/"pool of power", and if that is too "shallow" the alternator can´t keep up on itself handling all the power consumption of the electronics? if you follow what Im trying to say..? hehe! sorry..Im a tech oriented guy with a bit of experience (mostly Ford 5.0´s), but not a car mechanic by school or trade, so pardon my ignorance with correct terminology.. Cheers guys, Ollie
  10. Thanks, will do, I hope not having to open up the intake once again but I guess I will have to. I was pretty darn meticulous when I reinstalled bolted the thing back together, but I guess something might have gone wrong anyway. like, an injector gone bad, we'll see..
  11. I think Aaron is under the idea that the actual gasket that also holds the injectors ( under the cover) is supposed to be bolted down.. just my suspicion...I could be wrong thou..but those intake bolts are there for sure.
  12. I thought I might ad what I have swapped out since this new trouble started, (meaning engine misses) maybe one of these changes/ new parts has started acting up? EGR Valve Fuel Filter (brand new) Injectors MAP ( all these parts have been on the car/or another of the familys Caddys before and ran well then, so, I guess - somewhat "verified" to have been ok some years ago when they were taken off and put in storage/"save for later" type thing...hehe... Cheers! /Ollie
  13. Hello all, I now have installed the new generator/alternator, and low and behold, now it idles smooth, so, it definately was the a bad (or about to go south) alternator causing all these troubles all along starting a month ago. But unfortunately, sorry to say, I have now detected a bad missing issue, like a misfire on one (or more) of the cylinders? but, it could be a bad injector or something related...I alredy swapped out the coil pack, sparkplugs, some spark wires last night, and checked fireing order.. no avail. still runs rough, engine shakes when I run it at ca 2.5k´s..etc.. I will try the Power Balance test next. checking the injectors. flow/voltage Chart 6C-3 and 6C-4 in the Service Manual. I do have code 46, (but No service engine soon) but this code Ive had for years, still ran acceptable, not perfect but good enough. But now it´s currently not acceptable, so, I will dig deeper tonight, see if I get somewhere. thank you all. /Ollie
  14. Dear Caddy friends, I just thought I´d inform you that Im picking up a new alternator on Monday. It was indeed covered under warranty, so, no money spent, just my precious time... Anyway, I´ll get back to you with the results later in the week. Cheers, and have a nice weekend, Ollie
  15. Hi, Yes, it´s quite possible it´s been erratic/bad power that´s been the culprit all along, who knows? The guy who did the quick test said he did not think it was a diode, but more leaning against a bad "stator" or rotor, a bad diode should have shown (at least) a little power, but there was absolute nothing from it so, I dunno, it was totally dead he said. Have to wait a good 2-3 weeks to hear back from parts store warranty department, that stinks..But considering it cost me usd 300 I would rather they replace/fix it for me, I do not wanna spend that kinda money if I don´t have to. /Ollie