SevilleDorado

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SevilleDorado last won the day on May 10 2015

SevilleDorado had the most liked content!

About SevilleDorado

  • Rank
    Fanatic (50+ posts)
  • Birthday 08/11/1958

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    harwoodco@msn.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Valatie, N.Y.
  • Interests
    Restore, ride and enjoy Vintage motorcycles for a private collector.Indians, Brough Superiors,Guzzi's,and such.Country life,the outdoors, and raceing,drags and road course.Limerock and Watkins Glen close enough by.

Previous Fields

  • Car Model and Year
    1995 Seville STS / 1995 ElDorado ETC
  • Engine
    NORTHSTAR 4.6L V8 VVT (LH2)
  1. Just really keep everything clean. Keep track of the small check balls and where they came from. Be methodical , and clean. Make sure you get the nice flat gasket that is not all folded up. when I went to do the Eldo , the first gasket they got for me was folded up , different supplier I guess, told them to keep it , and re-ordered another.I actually think the one set-up came with the flat gasket, and the scavenger screens. Ordered the 2 selenoids and bracket off of fleabay , no issues............ I also usually take a piece of cardboard and punch holes in it mimiking the bolt patterns and take one out at a time and sick in the hole in the cardboard when taking things apart. How do I add some pictures to this ?Is it possible or does it have to be my post originally ?
  2. I saw this and thought it a current post , but alas it isn't. I can say that I did both my 95 Eldo and my 95 Seville and it worked out great. The Seville was put up on blocks when I got a $3,000 - $3,500 transmission shop estimate , that is until I joined here and saw a post on the selenoid issue when the Eldo's went bad......so fixed them both !!
  3. Thanks for the reply Cody. Yes it is the end of the links that are connected to the sway bar itself. The ends at the struts were easy , though the new struts did not have that stock spacer welded to them where the link attatches. I dremeled it off and tacked it on the new strut.The top end of the strut where you use the torx bit were so rusted and worn on the old ones, I had to cut open the shock part and clamp on it with a large vise grip and use heat on the nut. Believe me , I had sprayed it for days with PB.Needless to say the old links are still on , and need to change them out now that better weather is here in NY. Your comment on the wear of the Continental extreme contacts was just as I had summised , as they wore perfectly on the rear. I too am a spirited driver , and have been quite impressed with the handling of the Eldo. I live near LimeRock , a road course track in Conn. , and have often wanted to just take it there and run it through the course a couple laps.When I had my 68 AMX I got the oppertunity to do a few laps around Watkins Glen on a Mark Donahue anniversary weeked event - it was awesome ! Thanks again and good luck and great enthusiasm with your build.
  4. First what a cool thread I had been following it previously , and just noticed you started on it again. On a comment to those continetal tires, I had a set on my 95 Eldo and it ate them up in no time. I had and have not had the same problem with my Coopers , wich I ran before and after the Continentals. I am not that well versed , or have the knowledge you have aquired on your build, but I chalked it up to the tires as an issue themselves. I do drive aggresivly in cornering etc. . The question I have is I replaced my stock Eldo front struts with the Monroe replacements. I could not seem to get the ends of the strut rods loose out of the sway bars when wanting to replace them.... any tricks ? It looks like the same set up as the top mount on the front shocks - allen hex wrench insert.... ? Thanks - great wrok - love this thread ! I was refering to the Continental extreme contacts - they worked supreme on a 95 Benz wagon, but I just felt they were not desingned for a front wheel drive app. maybe ?? thought yours are on different rims and a different size - mine were a stock size match and on stock rims and on an ETC Eldo.
  5. I have had one go bad within 6 months from a local parts place - not sure of the manufacture. But they did replace it for me no problem....I have noticed a difference in the shape of the large round mass piece that goes into the diff. One was round, and another was kind of triangular - these were for me 95 Eldo.....
  6. I have had 2 instances where friends have taken thier vehicles to a so called "quick oil change" place. One instance they stripped the inner threads on the drain plug spud on the pan so bad I had to replace the pan, the other one the drain plug hex head was so damaged, over tightened, and had been rounded off, I had to file flats on it to get a vise grip to break it loose, and replace it..... It's like the transmission place telling me that it would be $3,500 to fix my Seville tranny , then finding this place and a related post, and replacing the shift selenoids myself and saving said $3,500 !
  7. CaddyInfo Pocket knife / escape tool

    OH - my bad, I just realised this was from last year - 2014 ! I guess disregard my first post -lol .
  8. CaddyInfo Pocket knife / escape tool

    Do you still have any of these available ? Thanks
  9. Thanks. Last thing I di last night was run the WOT procedure a few times. I think from having a crappy exhaust leak right after the Cat, and replacing that, and other issues with running it had carboned up a bit. It was apperent in the EGR passages and the valve itself. I am also guilty of overfilling it with oil .....I have now read the Guru pages, and with the help of the code list here , and everyone, I am feeling I am on the right track. I also have my 95 Seville STS wich at this point is yard bound to pull parts from and test. I think that's pretty lucky in a sense. No codes tonight after about 15 miles and stop and start errands....
  10. Thanks guys , it was a quick frustrated question, as I know I have to get it up in the air and look under there myself. The Eldo is so low I have to use a set of pre-ramps to get it up on regular car ramps -lol . It got down to below 30* here last night so I opted to look at it today rather that after dark in the driveway...... will keep you "posted" .
  11. So I have cleaned the EGR and now the only code I have left is the P083 - "Crankshaft to Ignition Module Failure" - the car does run . I thought I had it all set -lol - nope ! I drove it to the parts place to get another EGR gasket for my Seville as I robbed the EGR out of that one while the Eldo's was soaking. It ran good, no warning light, wich usually came on in 5 miles before. Stopped, and went in, came back out and started it up, warning light came on and car ran crappy...a run through the codes showed the P083 as current. Is ther more than one CPS ? ( crank position sensor) - wouldn't think so - only one crank. Chiltons shows it on the front of the engine block, and havn't looked yet...........arghhhhh.
  12. Thanks - I was able to print that out for the OBD1 - pages 1-10 , and is awesome. I will keep it in my file. Plan on working on the EGR valve on Friday. On my 95 Seville I had the EGR valve replaced by a trusted mechanic before I knew alot about them. He showed me the valve and the bracket and explained he could save some labor time just cutting it apart next the bolt, thus not having to remove the fuel rail.........it worked needless to say. May not have been the right choice but he knew I was short on cash and it helped..... I had to think back and realised the Eldo is having the same issues pretty much that the Seville did years ago....am going to read the post on how to service the EGR , or might just replace it,easy enough.
  13. Looking back up at your code post just now, I see "T" is a brake fluid low code, wich makes sense because pulling out of a parking lot with it last night it popped up on the info screen - "brake fluid low" and "traction disabled" , this may be a wiring issue also.........arghh. Because the brake fluid level is ok....
  14. I ran the car again last night and did the codes with it running and still the P036 is current and I now see ( thanks to your tip ) that the other is a T083 and not a "P" ......Chiltons shows no "T" codes. Plan on getting it in the garage tonight and working on it some more - temps are down to below freezing here allready at night ! 22F this morning here in upstate NY.
  15. Thanks Jim . I used the lnk and went through the procedure. I ran the car till the service engine light came back on then back home, and ran the Current codes while the car was running. The following came back - P036 - EGR pintle position out of range P083 - Crankshaft to ignition module failure - this one shows as " 24x feference signal high" in the code list in my Chiltons for the 4.6L engine. - Though I trust your list more, as usually these Chiltons are a sometimes generic manual. What the car does/did is. I took it out to get takeout food ( after the Cat. had been replaced ) - 15 minute drive mostly 55-60. Stopped , shut it off, 5 mins. getting food, come back out start it and it idles erratically , ramping up and down between 1000 - 1500 rpm, sounding like an angry beast , then it runs kind of crappy off and on , on the way back. Idles ok when parked, ran the codes while running, at wich time the above mentioned ones came up current. I will have to do more checking , wireing and connections, and probably pull the EGR and check it out , or just replace it....