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Logan last won the day on April 22

Logan had the most liked content!

About Logan

  • Rank
    Logan Diagnostic

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Franklin, TN

Previous Fields

  • Car Model and Year
    Fake DTS, 2010 MINI S, 2010 MINI JCW
  • Engine
    Northstar 4.6L V8 (LD8/L37)

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  1. Seems I've heard this story.... https://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-seville-cadillac-eldorado-forum/247794-northstar-performance-stud-kit-problems.html
  2. Certainly sounds like there is a leak. Before throwing more Freon at.....look at the front of the condenser. One little stone chip and it will all leak out. Look for a oily damp area.
  3. Logan

    OT....interesting GM barn find

    Another one....49 miles.. http://www.foxnews.com/auto/2018/05/23/time-capsule-1987-buick-grand-national-being-auctioned-on-ebay.html Even has the T Tops.....ask your kid if they know what a T Top is....."a T what ?'
  4. Curious.....does the serpentine belt look fairly new? I've had a couple of serpentine belts fail in a new way....so much so there is one brand I won't use. They let go one of the outer 'strings' on the belt......the long broken belt string whips around knocking out sensors and wiring along the way. This can go on for a thousands of miles before being noticed. Maybe the cam sensor fell victim to this? Maybe why he cannot see the sensor? It got wiped out by a bad belt? Belt picture is from Google....not mine. The ones I've seen have only been one of the outer strings failed. Northstar pic shows the cam sensor would be directly in-line for damage from a failing belt stringer. It also shows the cam sensor moved closer to the intake on the latter engines.
  5. A fused jumper is just a jumper wire with a fuse in it. So we are not burning up new problems... I would leave the pump in the tank......remove the fuel pump relay.....install a fused jumper across the relay......see if you now get voltage at the fuel pump harness plug out in the trunk. If you now have voltage at the pump connector.....plug in the connector.....pump should run. Unrelated....I also attached pic of the cam sensor. Rear cylinder bank....near passenger side. And one of the fuse block.....fuel pump relay (#39) and 20a fuel pump fuse (#1) hopefully showing the correct orientation of relay (not verified) with "OMRON' on the outside corner of fuse block.
  6. I would focus on the 12v issue at the pump. Should have 12v for about 2 seconds at key 'on'. You may have to set DVOM against back window to watch and see....I dont think you can get back to the trunk fast enough to see it on a DVOM. Varying fuel pressure readings earlier...and now reading 0 psi... It appears someone did actually install a new pump trying to fix it. Could be a blued wire connection or even a broken wire inside the insulation. Can be either the male or female part of the connection. Can be inside the plastic part of the connector. Look for melted or scorched looking plastic around the male prongs. I am assuming the new fuel pump assembly was a complete drop in 'bucket' assembly....I would think that would solve any issues on the pump end of the business. It can require a very, very close inspection....maybe it is just going unnoticed. I did attach another picture example of a blued / hot fuel pump connector. It can also be at the wire connections inside the tank....not just the outside plug. Other issues: The fuel pressure gauge may have been damaged in a odd way being connected to the Chevy. In one post I think he mentioned swapping some relays around.....hopefully he knows the relay pins have to be oriented in the correct position. Could be wrong or defective pump assembly. If....upon inspection....nothing is found at the tank end.... I would head to the fuel pump relay....remove the relay and put a fused jumper in and see if there is now voltage out to the pump. Retest. The car isn't going to start without 12v at the fuel pump.
  7. Fisher knows more about it than I do... Here is the GM service info.. DTC P0016 Circuit Description The powertrain control module (PCM) uses the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor and the camshaft position (CMP) sensor information to monitor the correlation between the crankshaft and camshaft positions. If the PCM detects a deviation between the CMP target and the CKP, DTC P0016 will set. Conditions for Running the DTC • DTCs P0335, P0336, P0340, P0341, P0385, P0386, P1372 are not set. • The engine is operating for more than 5 seconds. Conditions for Setting the DTC The PCM detects a deviation in the relationship between the camshaft and the crankshaft. Action Taken When the DTC Sets • The control module illuminates the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) on the second consecutive ignition cycle that the diagnostic runs and fails. • The control module records the operating conditions at the time the diagnostic fails. The first time the diagnostic fails, the control module stores this information in the Failure Records. If the diagnostic reports a failure on the second consecutive ignition cycle, the control module records the operating conditions at the time of the failure. The control module writes the operating conditions to the Freeze Frame and updates the Failure Records. Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC • The control module turns OFF the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) after 3 consecutive ignition cycles that the diagnostic runs and does not fail. • A current DTC, Last Test Failed, clears when the diagnostic runs and passes. • A history DTC clears after 40 consecutive warm-up cycles, if no failures are reported by this or any other emission related diagnostic. • Clear the MIL and the DTC with a scan tool. Diagnostic Aids • Inspect the engine for any recent engine mechanical repairs. An incorrectly installed camshaft, crankshaft, or timing chain can cause this DTC to set. • For an intermittent condition refer to Intermittent Conditions
  8. Service manual shows 55-62 on the 04 Chevy 5.3L. My guess is the gauge is 'good'.....but you never know.
  9. I should add.....there was a Mercedes we inherited once.....sat unused for 5-6 years in a hot climate......sour fuel. Original pump and fuel filter were locked with a black goo...fuel level sending unit was also bad.....first replacement pump also failed after a couple of months. Second replacement pump kind of fixed it.
  10. I don't see anything that proves the pump was....in fact....replaced. No one in the room saw it replaced....or maybe it was a flubbed installation or wrong pump. What year and engine is the Silverado? It likely has a different fuel pressure spec. I can look up the spec. That would help verify the gauge reading.
  11. At this stage.... Either replace the pump or replace the gauge. Try again.
  12. I think the bulletin you mention is for the 4.9L and earlier engines. On the 4.xL engines there is a ground wire mounted to the front of the engine block next to the starter. Current issue thinking there was a major backfire.....causing some smoke in the intake.....smoke leaked out of the ruptured plenum boot.....which is located directly above the starter on a Northstar. You really need a scan tool to condemn the PCM. There is plenty of stuff right now that needs to be verified before even thinking it's a bad PCM. Check for a ripped rubber plenum.....low fuel pressure issue....no spark issue... Then again....maybe it's a flood car...all the computers may be toast.
  13. 41-47 psi is the spec from the GM service CD for the 2004 Cadillac Deville DTS. I would think at 38 psi the car would start...but maybe not. I have never heard of a rotted rubber plenum causing a no start....I guess it could be possible if you ignored it long enough. The rubber does not stop rotting just because the car is not being used. The intake has to come off to replace....they rot out on the bottom.....top of it will look new....but you likely need to look anyway at the starter. The rubber plenum is a dealer only item....about $20. Maybe the noise was a backfire?
  14. The GM 'top engine cleaner' stuff dates back to at least the mid eighties for carb engines. I did see a couple of part #s.......GM part numbers 1050002, 1052626. Try a Google search. You actually pour enough in fast enough to actually stall the engine.....then let it sit overnight if possible. You are suppose to pull all the plugs and crank the engine over before starting....if not you risk hydro locking the engine. You can bend valves and rods if your not careful.
  15. Did you have the HEI tester clipped to metal ground? You can use a pigtail if no ground is within reach. It wont spark if it is not clipped to ground. Another youtube.....not me....