growe3

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About growe3

  • Rank
    Old Timer (500+ posts)
  • Birthday April 1

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Cameron Park, CA
  • Interests
    High performance and classic cars, structural engineering, boating.
    Previous cars I have owned and self maintained:
    2004 Cadillac DTS Black/Black & Sunroof (current)
    1993 Cadillac STS, 4.6 L, Northstar (current)
    1968 Dodge Charger, 383 Magnum, automatic
    1967 Plymouth GTX, custom 392 Hemi, 4 speed, positraction
    1965 Pontiac 2+2, 421, 4 speed, positraction
    1964 Plymouth Sport Fury,426 wedge,4 speed
    1964 Plymouth Sport Fury 426 wedge, automatic
    1955 Chrysler 300, 331 Hemi, 2-4 carb, automatic (still have)

Previous Fields

  • Car Model and Year
    2004 DTS and 1993 STS
  • Engine
    Northstar 4.6L V8 (LD8/L37)
  1. Transmission Fluid Remove

    Thanks Jim. This sounds like the information that I was looking for. Mostly I was not sure of just how much fluid I could pump out, and I want to be sure to have a large enough container to catch it all without a mess. I appreciate you taking the time for a good explanation of the process. -George PS I tried as you suggested to reply to my initial note, and it was clear and easy to reply. It my be just the browser, or reading mode your are in when replying. Any way all's well. -G
  2. Transmission Fluid Remove

    I am not sure what you mean by "fancy formatting". I listed what I intend to do in a clear listed manner. You mentioned that you may have a "cleaner neater method". What is this method? -George
  3. I am going cross country again (California - the UP in Michigan) and I wanted to refresh the transmission fluid before I go. This car is a 2004 DTS, with just over 100k miles. I know that I don't have to do this, but I would like to. I was planning to: Detach the transmission line at the cooler. Attach a piece of fuel line to the metal cooler line. Put the end of the fuel line into a container to catch the fluid Start the engine to pump out the fluid; stopping the engine when the fluid does not readily come out. Then replace the fluid with whatever amount necessary. My questions: Approximately how much fluid will be discharged using this method? Do I need to increase the engine RPM above an idle? Any particular warnings? Any advice would be appreciated. -George
  4. leaky rims on a "05 seville

    Just my two cents here. What you described is almost exactly what I had to do to a couple of my rims. They are 1997 rims on my 1993 STS, Bought new! They started leaking after about 5 years after I had them installed. For whatever reason the inner bead area had several spots that were corroding heavily. I did some wire wheel buffing to get the surface stuff off, then very coarse emery cloth to finish the job. No more leaks. As these rims have never seen snow or salt, I suspect a defective chrome job, or possibly when the tires were mounted the tire "soap" may have been contaminated with something that took awhile to corrode enough to start leaking air. Both the rims and tires were new. -George
  5. First, thanks for all of the replies and ideas. I am sorry for my delayed response, got caught up in a number of "gotta get done now" things. I tried to reprogram a few Features to see if setting and resetting something might get it out of this "stuck" position; no joy. The dash readout at Feature Programming is locked in the "OFF" mode. The Exit functions still work fine, but I just can't get the Feature Programming to go to the "ON" mode. It may be that a Tech II could reset it, as a last resort I may go to the dealer, and have them see if they can reset it. -George
  6. Well I have been stuck on this issue for awhile. I do have the manuals, but at this time they have not helped resolve the problem Symptoms: I unlock, enter the car,insert the key,turn the ignition on, and start the car. The readout message reads "Driver 1 Settings". This is normal, but.....the settings are not applied. I also tried my other key set for my wife, and it also acknowledges her settings as "Driver 2 Settings", but the settings are not applied. However....when either of us turns the ignition off, it will apply the Exit settings correctly. I am puzzled as to why only part of the settings (Exit) work, yet the dash readout seems to function correctly. No codes are set. Any suggestions on what to check? -George
  7. 1994 cadillac sedan deville

    Perhaps the most important thing is to retrieve any diagnostic codes. I am not sure if your Deville accesses them the same as a Seville, but you can try. With the ignition turned on, hold down the Heater OFF button and the Auto button (it is like booting a computer). Within about 3-5 seconds all of the indicator lights will come on. Release the buttons and let the system retrieve the codes. As the codes are displayed, write them down, and then post here. To get out of the diagnostic mode press the Heater Auto button, or turn off the key. Another important thing to check are the fuses. Access the trunk fuse box and look for one marked "IGN". Check and replace if it has failed. Replace any failed fuse with the indicated amp value, putting in one of a higher value will cause a risk of severe wiring damage.
  8. Slight Overheating Problem

    jimD, I agree about getting it clean.... It will be done ASAP...was gonna do it today, but I spent all day at the hospital with my Brother. He had back surgery today. I made it a point not to get in any hurry today. As far as the temps...It never over halfway between 12 o'clock and the next mark that is labeled 235. Maybe just a hair less than halfway... It was worrying me, because it has "NEVER" gone past 12 o'clock, even driving across the Arizona desert in mid summer at 100+ for an hour or two straight. Thank you for the picture. Based on that... it was probably around 225....but not close to the 235 mark. After tomorrow and I am no longer on hospital duty... IT WILL BE CLEANED... :) Hi Jim, I just got back from a round trip; Cameron Pk, CA to Naubinway, MI with my 2004 DTS, mostly along Interstate 80. The odometer just went over 100,000 miles. My DTS temperature normally runs rock solid in the 12 o'clock position. Several times on this trip it rose to the first index past 12 o'clock. Once while in Madison, WI; "stop and go" 0-30 MPH, temp 88, humidity 70%. And a couple of times on fairly steep grades ( 65-70 MPH) where the transmission was shifting between 3rd and 4th a number of times. Steady driving at 75-80 with temps at, or above 96, did not bother it at all. I think that the transmission must be putting a heavy load on the cooling system; at least in my case. When it needs to do some extra shifting work, the transmission just temporarily overloads the cooling system. I am going to look into adding more transmission cooling capacity. PS Trunk was packed absolutely full; about 400-500 pounds of books, suitcases, sewing machine, the list goes on... -George
  9. 98 Etc Head Gasket Replacement

    If you are fast there is a set on e-bay, bid closing soon. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1998-SERVICE-MANUALS-DEVILLE-EL-DORADO-SET-3-VG-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem58895e4f2eQQitemZ380261781294QQptZMotorsQ5fManualsQ5fLiterature
  10. 98 Etc Head Gasket Replacement

    This is one project that you must have the manuals for. It involves many different special ways of removing and fastening parts. Torques, and turns after certain torque values are reached, must be observed; or your efforts will be wasted. There are subtle differences in some engine parts, and how they are fastened, you must be sure to use the values for your year car. That being said, I highly recommend getting the Helms manuals, they are the factory manuals. Try e-bay, or an Internet search. The link below shows what you are looking for. Currently at $135, money well spent! These manuals cover the whole car, not just the engine. 1998 Cadillac Repair Manuals This is an involved project, you will need help at times, an area to remove and keep things organized, to clean, etc. Depending on the time you put in, and your technical experiance, I would say count on about a week to complete this project (I believe the shop time is in the order of 20+ hours; and they have all of the right tools and experiance). The trickiest part, in my opinion, is getting the engine removed and back in (whether from the top or bottom). It is a tight fit, and and you must pay careful attention, especially around the heater cover area. It cracks very easily, and if damaged the only time to fix it is with the engine out of the car. The actual engine work is not to difficult, just be careful, clean parts carefully before re-assembly, and follow the manuals instructions. -George
  11. 98 Etc Head Gasket Replacement

    Ttrying the attachment that did not make it the first time. -George Cadillac 1993 STS Timesert Repair.pdf
  12. 98 Etc Head Gasket Replacement

    I have done two complete head gasket repairs. The Timesert portion is not that difficult, but it does take time. You must follow the Timesert directions; no shortcuts or sloppy work. It is technically possible to do the repair in the car, BUT it is highly recommended to remove the engine to do this work. It is also highly recommended to do both heads, if one side is bad, the other is; or will be soon, There are many reasons to do this repair with the engine out of the car: . Leaning over the car to do the drilling, tapping, cleaning, necessary for the Timeserts, is a back breaking job. . The rear head is all but inaccessible do do the job. . Re-timing the engine is difficult, if not impossible once the timing chain has been removed from the cams. _The timing chain cover must be removed to be able to reset the cams, crank, relax the chain slippers,etc; to get every thing realigned. _If not aligned correctly you will likely destroy the engine when you try to start it. Although it is a pain (understatement) to remove the engine, once it is out the repairs are pretty straight forward. It also give you the opportunity to make a number of other repairs that usually need doing at the same time. I have attached a PDF that shows what it cost on one of my repair jobs. You may not need to fix all of the miscellaneous items that I did, but be prepared for a few more thing that need fixing. There is debate on whether to remove the engine from the top, or the bottom; I choose the top. Others on the forum have chosen the bottom. Either way has its problems. Regarding Timeserts, I had no problem using them, and they are the factory recommended way to repair bad head bolt holes. Perhaps the best way is to use studs, but that raises other issues. Good Luck, George
  13. 2003 dts

    The phone button on the steering wheel, and the mirror buttons are On Star controls. If you want On Star, the car will need to be converted from the original analog type computer module, to digital. It is usually a $200 job, done by the dealer, which includes a one year subscription to On Star. -George
  14. Send copies of your letters to the local GM/Cadillac technical support and marketing offices, George. Documentation of diagnostic results and service recommendations will be important (critical). GM (the NEW GM, that is) should want to know about dealers that are staining Cadillac's reputation and possibly putting their franchise in jeopardy. Let the sun shine brightly on your experience. Don't overlook sending copies to consumer protection agencies in Sacramento. And I would certainly send copies to the management/owners of the offending dealership along with the list of all parties/agencies you are communicating with. I am putting a package together to send to Hubacher Cadillac, BBB, and the auto repair agency. I could not figure out how to send this to GM, in a manner to get their attention. Every link that I found ends up to be a useless "happy owner" group. Do you know an address, Internet or regular, with which to make contact? -George George, There should be contact information in your owner's manual - look for a District Representative or a Zone Manager. Kevin, Thanks for the suggestion, I'll give it a look. -George
  15. Jim, Don't hold it in, just say what you feel. -George