rockfangd

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Everything posted by rockfangd

  1. The radio is just a display unit technically. The brains, (amp ) is located behind the back seat. I always like to keep things original so I never tried to do it. I am sure others have done it. Hopefully someone who has will chime in
  2. It will not lock as the vin is encrypted into it rather than a code. So as long as the vins match it will work fine I have had no issues. I installed and programmed the same radio in both of my Caddys. I personally would do anything to fix the original. Installing a aftermarket radio is not very easy. And if it has Bose even worse
  3. Ok I dont consider the cd cleaner to count as many cd players do not work with them. Is the cd a burned cd or a bought cd? Sometimes they can be picky with burned discs. If it cannot read it it will spit it out. The upside is that if you have to send it out for service is that it is not difficult to remove. Console shift is a pain to do. But column shift is cake. You carefully pop the trim off from around the radio, then there is a clip on each side of the radio that you squeeze to release. Pull the radio out and there is a blue plug and a antenna plug. You may get lucky and find that there is just dried grease where the laser slides. Or even easier to have dust buildup
  4. Welcome to Caddyinfo. I have a few questions. Is it the in dash unit? Is it a RDS radio? or is it the changer in the trunk? cleaning disc aside If you have the radio on another source (fm radio, cassette, etc...) does the disc icon flash when a disc is inserted or does it come on solid? Or just spit it back out. Sorry for the questions. It gives me a better idea of exactly what the issues are
  5. good. I guess as long as there is no actual fuel coming through that line
  6. It is not vapor when it leaks. What you are smelling is the leftover vapor from it leaking
  7. Welcome to Caddyinfo. I used Gorilla glue with great success on my 97. I would not recommend attempting without removing the dash from the vehicle. What I liked about the gorilla glue was that it swelled to fill all of the gaps as it cured. It should be clamped as well as possible to cover a large area. This way it will cure evenly
  8. rockfangd

    2002 ETC A/C Compressor Noise

    I have good luck with ACdelco and 4 seasons. Not so good luck with valeo. If the AC blows warm at idle it is one of a few things. Overcharged system. This puts a strain on the system and at idle cannot handle the excess flow. Basically the compressor is working too hard at idle. Condenser fan may be plugged or not working. Condenser may be plugged. Ditto on the clutch bearing. I would think it would come with the kit. If the system is unknown I usually replace the whole things as the reed valves get worn out over time and the seals can leak.
  9. rockfangd

    2002 ETC A/C Compressor Noise

    Sounds like your clutch is not working. I have to warn that if that compressor is aftermarket I would not have much faith in the clutch not self destructing. I have seen too many that came apart shortly after a clutch failed. Was the ac working good before the noise started? It is very possible that the gap was never set correctly and it wore out prematurely
  10. I second that. Check the fans. If they test good follow the harness from the bottom of the radiator support and see if it is chaffed or pinched anywhere. Does it instantly trip or as it warms up? Welcome to CaddyInfo forum
  11. rockfangd

    brake valve question

    I hope someone can help me with this one. My 96 Deville uses rear brake proportioning valve AC Delco 18018429. Proportioning valve, rear brake. 96 seemed to be the last year that style was used and in 97 the design for the valve changed The 97 and up Deville uses AC Delco 19244448 proportioning valve, rear brake. They are cheaper and install inline in both rear brake lines. I was curious if I could use them in the place of the originals on my 96 Deville. I started this thread as to not confuse my other thread. Thanks Below is a picture of each valve.
  12. rockfangd

    brake valve question

    Yes. The left rear is at the front IIRC, the RR is in the back. 97 Changed some things. Different valves also.
  13. you will want to check number 1,3,8,13. 13 is a rather common failure also. It makes the system think it has low pressure when it does not
  14. was it wet inside of the electrical plug? and if so was it oily? it is one of the pressure cutoff switches. I just dont remember at the moment which one. But I know they can be rather common
  15. Good, glad to have helped. If sensor was leaking into plug it would be a little oily
  16. very true. Although I have not had to change too many it is still a large leak point
  17. Ok recheck codes like I described above. When the codes start to display hit the fan down button Continue pushing the fan down button as it cycles through the modules. Once it displays ACM hit the fan up button. this will enter that module. Now push the fan down button until it shows clear codes. Push fan up to confirm. Codes are now cleared for the module. Have you verified the compressor was running when trying to apply refrigerant? If the compressor is off it will not give you accurate reading. It is also possible that unhooking the battery does not always clear that code. Also just FYI the gauges that come with the cans can be highly inaccurate. They are a estimate of what the pressure is.
  18. Ok. so the last code is telling you that the refrigerant is low. The B1347. Look between the engine and the firewall. There is a sensor in the line that goes to the evaporator. (sticks up) It should be easy to find. Unplug it and see if it is wet in the plug. If it is the sensor is bad. Next have a look at your compressor located at the bottom front by the radiator. See if it is wet. It could be that the case is leaking. What gauge read full? The proper way to charge the system is to pull a vacuum for at least 30 minutes, then apply the proper charge. Was the compressor running while the gauge(or gauges) were full? You must clear the code before you can fully charge as the compressor must be running to show proper pressures. It will not take proper charge unless compressor is running
  19. Welcome to Caddyinfo. You need to pull the codes. Should be done onboard by holding down the off and passenger warmer buttons on the climate control for 3 seconds, A full dash lamp check will flash, then it will display codes by module. Write them down and post them here. How exactly have you verified the system has the proper charge? pressures, Any recent work done?
  20. rockfangd

    Fuel fill issue

    Hi all. Know I posted this somewhere but I cannot find it. I find GM in general but not Cadillac. I try to fuel my 97 Deville and all it does it keep kicking off the nozzle. It took me forever to pump 18 gallons the other night. I ended up barely squeezing the trigger just enough to get it to flow otherwise it would just pop. It has done this before at the beginning of the season but seems to improve throughout the season. Well this year I want to figure it out. IIRC the canister is at the left rear somewhere. I had the tank down when I replaced the fuel pump module and there was nothing obvious there. I know I am not the only one that has had the issue. This is the first cadillac I have run into this issue with. Not sure if it is the vent solenoid, hose, canister... Hopefully just a blockage in a hose somewhere. Thanks all.
  21. rockfangd

    Fuel fill issue

    I get my gas at the same company but many different locations. It only happens with this car. I have multiple vehicles and this is the only one. Thanks for posting
  22. also note that the bearings very commonly fail in pairs. Did replacing the one make any difference?
  23. Wow. I really like this thread. I love all of the pics. (drooling) As for that left pipe off the engine I would get a flange that slips over the pipe, then weld it onto the pipe from beneath (from between the flange and pipe) then use a matching flange on the pipe that comes down. Just a opinion and I know yours is already done. I am also curious if you did anything with the pipe that runs under the oil pan? I hate that pipe as if you happen to have a little oil leak it gets burned off by it. Wouldnt be so bad if it was a cheap and easy fix to stop the leak. That pipe seems rather restrictive in that area. Thank you very much for posting this thread. If I went through this much work it would have to be stainless as anything but that rots here in lovely NY. Best of luck to you.
  24. Hi all I have a near mint headliner in Shale from a 1998 Eldorado ETC It is with the factory moonroof option. It comes complete with the wiring harness. I bought it last year in case I could work it with my Seville, which I could not so I bought a brand new one. For me to purchase this one it had to be near mint. So I thought I would post it here in a rare case someone is looking for one. If there is any interest I can post a few pictures and a price. Thanks all