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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/21/2017 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    I was going to ask if this was a direct injected engine the other day. Watch this video.
  2. 2 points
    Please keep us posted. I am skeptical of the top end cleaner as you did not have the issue before the repair. If you were burning oil excessively It is highly suggested, although I have not found great success in it, even after being done twice. I feel for you as I pay pretty good on a rare occasion to have someone do a job for me, Expectations are high but end result may vary. I wish you the very best
  3. 2 points

    Leaking grease from CV boots?

    Well, I had some time on Sat. so I dug into this problem. Napa had some replacement clamps for $2.30 ea. and I bought a packet of CV grease ($4) and put Betty White up on the ramps! The hardest part of this whole thing was getting the old clamps off without damaging the boots! The just were tough to unhook from the tabs on the strips, even after twisting the crimped area loose. These clamps had definitely loosened over time though, I could actually spin them with my hand quite easily! I pulled back the boot far enough to poke the corner of the grease pouch into the joint and squeezed aprox. half the bag in each one. I you do this, make sure you wipe the boot area nice and clean with a rag with brake clean to have a nice, dry surface for the clamp to grip on. One other tip, put a jack under the control arm and lift till the axle is fairly level. (but still have safe, sufficient weight on the jack stands) You don't want to try and put the new clamp on with the axle hanging down at an angle, stretching the boot... Getting the new clamp on was a breeze and I used this small nipper plier to snug the clamp up, following with a bigger nippers to really tighten them down. All seems to be holding fine!
  4. 2 points

    My DeVille Got Hit

    Sorry this happened to your car. you might have to put your boxing mitts on to fight with the insurance company, but believe me when I tell you that paint technology, and color matching and blending has come a long way. Your initial check from the insurance will be a lowball figure. bringing it to the right restoration/ custom paint shop will help. The shop will dictate how to properly repair the vehicle. Google around to see a local shop that specializes in custom paint, and see how they can help. GOOD LUCK
  5. 1 point
    I think (just my two cents) is that the pump is bad. I have seen on other sites that you should really use an A/C Delco (or other OEM); maybe the pump replaced was an off brand. (Just a WAG; wild arse guess). I surely will yield to the more tech-savvy responses.
  6. 1 point
    This is too funny. I watched that one too. 😂
  7. 1 point
    Put car back together with new plenum. Just waiting for the MAP sensor that I broke before seeing if that was my problem. Hope so!
  8. 1 point

    Cadillac Deville crank but no start

    Can you explain exactly how you tested for spark? I guess we want to verify your procedure... Did you get a HEI tester? I would likely check every one....should be pretty easy to do. I would also get some of the gas from the fuel rail end (from relief hose) ......pour a little bit on a sidewalk.....and see if you can get it to light and burn. If bad gas....there can be a bunch between the tank and the fuel rail. Can be sour....sugar....diesel etc mixed in.
  9. 1 point
    Agreed. I guess the proof will be in the pudding. As long as it works when I pick it up then whatever. They want to keep it an additional day or so to be sure it's fixed. I'll keep you updated.
  10. 1 point

    Cadillac Deville crank but no start

    You need a HEI tester.....it should produce a distinctive visible spark and snapping spark sound. Think they are about $10. Aftermarket alarm or remote start systems on Cadilllacs.....seem to work for a year or 2 and then stuff like this happens...If it has one it needs to come out.
  11. 1 point

    Cadillac Deville crank but no start

    When you said "4 in a strip".....I thought you were talking about the 2000-2003 coil cassette(s).
  12. 1 point
    Sorry guys! Next time I'll try and keep them shorter. I'll try starter fluid in throttle body. I cleaned throttle plate when I had it off. I also checked for hole in plenum but there was so much soot, black greasy stuff, I really couldn't see one. I'm thinking spark as well and trying to borrow and if need to buy a fuel pressure have. Thanks for advice.
  13. 1 point

    Temperature of water in engine

    Thank you guess it is doing alright. Never had a north star before it don't have but 130000 original miles should get a few more out of it. Thanks again
  14. 1 point
    big things are 127" wheelbase Coupe with Twin Turbo V8 so hopefully we don't simply get a CT6 grill treatment. I love the idea that Cadillac might abandon the XTn and CTn code names and go back to evocative names like Escala, Eldorado, or Sixty Special.
  15. 1 point
    Bruce Nunnally

    Radiator fan

    Saturday after driving in heavy traffic, waiting in line at Chik-fila, and idling in the parking lot, my ATS-V overheated. The ATS-V has a robust cooling system, so not expected. I shut it off then I used Onstar to call roadside assist, and they sent a flatbed tow truck to bring it to Crest Cadillac. I scheduled with Dallas Cadi for my airport transport Today for a business trip. Mainly I wanted to get the V to Crest Saturday so they could look at it this week. Today Crest called and confirmed a radiator fan was out, but the engine was unharmed. They are fixing/redoing my tint on the passenger window while it is there. so, sounds like good news, nothing major. Should be ready for pickup when I get back to town.
  16. 1 point
    Cadillac supposedly built just 302 V-12s for the 1931 model year, four of which still remain on the road according to BaT. The car came about in response to other luxury manufacturers experimenting with multi-cylinder engines. Cadillac initially decided to build two cars with this style, the top-tier 452A (denoting engine displacement) V-16 and the "more affordable" 370A V-12. http://www.thedrive.com/news/18383/this-beautiful-1931-cadillac-v-12-coupe-for-sale-is-one-of-four
  17. 1 point
    From the Amazon blurb, the gray wire they are talking about is probably the door lock actuator line. Hitting the factory fob "lock" button puts power to that wire, and three hits is apparently what actuates the starter actuation logic in your accessory. I've attached the schematic that shows the gray wire, which is the one to the driver's door; it's GRY . Others that could work are any of the GRY/BLK wires that lock the other doors and tailgate, but I suspect that personalization of your car's options could affect these doors - possibly not the locking signals but certainly the unlocking signals.
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    @rhdsts discharge the booster pressure by applying the brake several times and test for continuity between terminals A and B, it should have continuity if it does not have continuity with the booster pressure discharged then the switch is defective.
  20. 1 point
    Love the body mods, I have a 68 Camaro front spoiler on my 93. it flows well with the rear glass spoiler. I also dont need my indicators anymore as I have those white led day time running lights that blink yellow when its time to indicate. Matches the hids way better the rear roof spoiler is from a deville lol
  21. 1 point

    My 1996 LED taillight conversion

    Because I like the bold look of LED indicators , I decided to convert my rear turn and brake bulbs, and I thought I would give some tips for anyone thinking the same. first is that you should purchase the color LED that fits the color of the lens. In my case, my directional bulbs are red, along with my brake bulbs, so I purchased 4 red LED's. To avoid hyper flash (LED's draw less current, so the flasher blinks fast like it does when a bulb is burned out) - at first I thought to install 1 resistor for each bulb. In my case, I replaced 4 bulbs, so I would need 4 resistors wired in to the tail light harness. I didn't want to cut or splice wires, so I thought to plug them in to the trailer wire socket that is located inside the spare tire housing. I decided to rather buy the blinker module made specifically for LED's. I simply unplug the original located under the dash, and replaced it with this smaller $2.50 LED compatible one I bought in eBay. Now my brake bulbs and my rear flashers blink nice and slow, bold red with no warm up and cool down delay. I must say that the rear is a little brighter at night, and I am still waiting for my bottom red 194 bulb that should be here any day. I accidentally ordered a white bulb, and it is so bright, that it makes the lens look washed out red. I currently have an incadescent bulb in there now, but it is inherently dim, and the tail fin is not as red at the bottom as it would be with a bright red LED. i also added 2 bulbs to my 3rd brake lamp inside the rear deck. didnt know it was possible to make my old '96 scream Cadillac any louder than what it had, but it does! - and it does from 1/4 a mile behind me too!
  22. 1 point
    You are the expert on the requirements and design for your application, which, as I recall, is autocross/gymkhana contests. I would think that total agility contests like that would favor a level car, as you say. I qualify my opinion that the rake is for high speed stability as just that, an opinion. I based it initially on these points: My ETC came with the rake. The car was exactly on the ride height specifications in the FSM (with new tires) throughout its life. My ETC did not come with a spoiler. I don't believe that a factory RPO spoiler was available for the 1997 ETC. The owner's manual states "This car will go 150 mph." Car & Driver timed a 1997 ETC (I believe, it might have been an STS) at 145 mph on their home test track, which has a good straightaway but is not suitable for testing top speed of very fast cars. I'm not at all sure that the ETC body style would be stable above 120 mph without the rake; this is, of course, yet another opinion. The ETC/STS (VIN "9" cars) designed to run with the big dogs on the Autobahn, and the VIN "Y" cars were designed to keep up with traffic (up to 120 mph or 195 kph) . This is from the car trade mags of the time. The throttle response and stability at 100++ certainly supports real-world long-distance driving at those speeds, while dealing with similar-speed traffic and real-world roads that are designed to support such traffic. So says a friend. Now, if I had one to test, and had wheel height sensors available in real time with output available for recording, I could verify the utility of the rake in keeping reasonable weight on all four wheels at speed. Wheel height, with spring rate, translates into weight on the wheel, a point that is used in the PCM/PZM/BCM in traction control and electronic stability control.
  23. 1 point

    HeadGasket Job Done 1998/1997 Eldo

    I decided to go with a member of CaddyInfo,Brad (barczy01), to do my 1998 Eldo head gasket repair. I had talked to many people but after a few conversations, I felt this was the way to go. Hauled the Eldo down to B+B automotive in Indianapolis. Knew I had made the right decision after meeting him in person and seeing his place. I knew my motor had been replaced (found out after I bought it) and discovevered it had a N*9 motor now as opposed to the original Vin# Y motor. I made him aware of that. He kept me informed of the progress with pictures,texts and phone calls. Confirmed the motor was a N*9 out of a 197 Eldo/Deville/Seville and wanted to know should he continue. We had talked about this before regarding mixing the Y/9 combination. I said although there had been a few issues when I bought the Eldo in 2011, it ran good. I have quite a few posts here about this . kcd1184 Said keep going. Brad did the head gasket job, heater core, radiator, alternator, fuel rail, and many standard maintenance items. 50,000 miles since I bought it. Also said whoever swapped motors made a mess. Fixed everything and set everthing to specs . I took a bus down to Indianapolis Sunday and he picked me up at the bus terminal. Took me to my Eldo at his business and drove 300+ miles home . The Eldo runs like it has never run before. I had a 94 Y Eldo at the same time I bought this 1998. I always thought the 94 was a little quicker off the line. Not anymore. This 1998 is now stronger in every aspect. If I had to start all over again, even though it is a couple of long days down and back, I would go the same route.
  24. 1 point

    My DeVille Got Hit

    IIRC they are clipped on from behind. GM used a few different setups, some have pins that the plastic clips lock into. I will have to look into it
  25. 1 point
    Bruce Nunnally

    Moisture in taillight

    Here is a nice article on the topic: http://www.caddyinfo.com/taillight.htm