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  1. 2 points
    sprucegoose

    Leaking grease from CV boots?

    Well, I had some time on Sat. so I dug into this problem. Napa had some replacement clamps for $2.30 ea. and I bought a packet of CV grease ($4) and put Betty White up on the ramps! The hardest part of this whole thing was getting the old clamps off without damaging the boots! The just were tough to unhook from the tabs on the strips, even after twisting the crimped area loose. These clamps had definitely loosened over time though, I could actually spin them with my hand quite easily! I pulled back the boot far enough to poke the corner of the grease pouch into the joint and squeezed aprox. half the bag in each one. I you do this, make sure you wipe the boot area nice and clean with a rag with brake clean to have a nice, dry surface for the clamp to grip on. One other tip, put a jack under the control arm and lift till the axle is fairly level. (but still have safe, sufficient weight on the jack stands) You don't want to try and put the new clamp on with the axle hanging down at an angle, stretching the boot... Getting the new clamp on was a breeze and I used this small nipper plier to snug the clamp up, following with a bigger nippers to really tighten them down. All seems to be holding fine!
  2. 2 points
    winterset

    My DeVille Got Hit

    Sorry this happened to your car. you might have to put your boxing mitts on to fight with the insurance company, but believe me when I tell you that paint technology, and color matching and blending has come a long way. Your initial check from the insurance will be a lowball figure. bringing it to the right restoration/ custom paint shop will help. The shop will dictate how to properly repair the vehicle. Google around to see a local shop that specializes in custom paint, and see how they can help. GOOD LUCK
  3. 2 points
    OldCadTech

    Auxiliary fan not working

    Yep, it sure does make sense. The A/C clutch fuse is eventually spliced into the relay power or "hot" side. Eventually, to the PCM for control of the fan speed. Good job, Gotta love a story with a happy ending.
  4. 1 point
    Agreed. I guess the proof will be in the pudding. As long as it works when I pick it up then whatever. They want to keep it an additional day or so to be sure it's fixed. I'll keep you updated.
  5. 1 point
    Yeah, and this is why I do 90% of my own repairs. But when I started researching the original issue, I decided it was outside of my comfort level and felt like I'd be throwing parts at it. But now I feel like they may have thrown parts at it. No doubt the cats where probably clogged, but were the injectors the actual cause? I've had overall good luck with this dealer in the past. Hope that continues...
  6. 1 point
    Bruce Nunnally

    Radiator fan

    Saturday after driving in heavy traffic, waiting in line at Chik-fila, and idling in the parking lot, my ATS-V overheated. The ATS-V has a robust cooling system, so not expected. I shut it off then I used Onstar to call roadside assist, and they sent a flatbed tow truck to bring it to Crest Cadillac. I scheduled with Dallas Cadi for my airport transport Today for a business trip. Mainly I wanted to get the V to Crest Saturday so they could look at it this week. Today Crest called and confirmed a radiator fan was out, but the engine was unharmed. They are fixing/redoing my tint on the passenger window while it is there. so, sounds like good news, nothing major. Should be ready for pickup when I get back to town.
  7. 1 point
    Logan

    Leaking grease from CV boots?

    On the original shafts.....the boots are a almost plastic like material. Aftermarket ones use a rubbery style replacement boot. The rubbery ones seem to fail pretty quick....maybe in a year or two. Aftermarket axles can have a huge difference in weight depending on the CV bearing design being used.....up to 15 lbs per axle....enough to actually feel the difference while driving. Hence my recommendation that you are likely better off with a good used axle vs. a aftermarket one.
  8. 1 point
    Follow the written instructions. Use the solid gray wire in the 2002 Escalade/EXT wiring harness for the actuator signal.
  9. 1 point
    From the Amazon blurb, the gray wire they are talking about is probably the door lock actuator line. Hitting the factory fob "lock" button puts power to that wire, and three hits is apparently what actuates the starter actuation logic in your accessory. I've attached the schematic that shows the gray wire, which is the one to the driver's door; it's GRY . Others that could work are any of the GRY/BLK wires that lock the other doors and tailgate, but I suspect that personalization of your car's options could affect these doors - possibly not the locking signals but certainly the unlocking signals.
  10. 1 point
    @rockfangd in the initial post, of the schematic the OP provided, it shows the dark blue wire goes from the coil side of the relay and is the brake booster sensor signal wire. Initially, I thought there was a normal vacuum booster and the pressure system was a back up system. Now, I'm not sure. I do know it is not a hydro-boost system operating from the P/steering pump pressure. The schematic also indicates a vacuum sensor signal as well, but as @Logan indicated it may be a mis-print, if in fact it does not have a vacuum brake booster. BTW @rhdsts airplane crashes come in 3"s
  11. 1 point
    I responded above and then read the "Rest of the Story".... Anyway, I am old school. I love using DVOM's for testing components etc. but plain old wiring I like to use the above method or in very long circuits I will use a circuit breaker rated the same as the fuse and a short finder. Short finders are great for checking along door sills and any longer wire runs. If you don't have one, I highly recommend a terminal test kit. They make life a lot easier. They're especially nice for doing connector and component drag tests.
  12. 1 point
    It all depends on where you are testing the blue and pink wires from. The purpose of both tests is to isolate the circuit wiring. Pull the Booster pump relay and look at the connector end of the relay, find the terminal marked 30 on the relay and match that terminal to the female connector on the fuse/relay block. Connect a wire to that #30 connector (not at the relay-where the relay plugs into the wire) and connect it to the battery ground terminal. At the booster pump assembly, disconnect the connector and with your test light connected to the positive terminal of the battery, probe the pink wire at terminal C (connector end - not the pump side) if the test light illuminates, disconnect the wire at the negative battery terminal and IF the wire is good the test light will go out. If the test lamp stays illuminated you have a short in that circuit. Physically trace the wire (pink circuit 173 in this example) completely back to the relay connector if necessary to find the short. If the circuit 173 (pink) tests okay repeat the entire process for the DK BLU circuit at relay connector 86 and at booster pump connector A. If they BOTH test good let me know and I can run you through the pump test. These under hood fuse and relay blocks are notorious for corroding, so when you remove the relay check the condition of the connectors. If they look corroded, pull the fuse block so you can see the bottom of it and check it. If the wires are shorted, and are impossible, or seem to be impossible to trace ( without taking half the car apart) and the fuse/relay block is in good condition, remove the faulty circuit connector from the fuse block and run a replacement wire directly from the relay, through the fuse block and to the booster pump connector. If the booster pump connector is in good condition, cut the faulty circuit wire about 4-5 inches from the connector and solder and seal the replacement wire and the old wire together or use a heat sealed butt connector. <<<----- Harbor Freight Watertight Heat-Shrink Butt Connectors Your relay #30 terminal may not be in the same location as the one pictured, but it will be marked.
  13. 1 point
    You are the expert on the requirements and design for your application, which, as I recall, is autocross/gymkhana contests. I would think that total agility contests like that would favor a level car, as you say. I qualify my opinion that the rake is for high speed stability as just that, an opinion. I based it initially on these points: My ETC came with the rake. The car was exactly on the ride height specifications in the FSM (with new tires) throughout its life. My ETC did not come with a spoiler. I don't believe that a factory RPO spoiler was available for the 1997 ETC. The owner's manual states "This car will go 150 mph." Car & Driver timed a 1997 ETC (I believe, it might have been an STS) at 145 mph on their home test track, which has a good straightaway but is not suitable for testing top speed of very fast cars. I'm not at all sure that the ETC body style would be stable above 120 mph without the rake; this is, of course, yet another opinion. The ETC/STS (VIN "9" cars) designed to run with the big dogs on the Autobahn, and the VIN "Y" cars were designed to keep up with traffic (up to 120 mph or 195 kph) . This is from the car trade mags of the time. The throttle response and stability at 100++ certainly supports real-world long-distance driving at those speeds, while dealing with similar-speed traffic and real-world roads that are designed to support such traffic. So says a friend. Now, if I had one to test, and had wheel height sensors available in real time with output available for recording, I could verify the utility of the rake in keeping reasonable weight on all four wheels at speed. Wheel height, with spring rate, translates into weight on the wheel, a point that is used in the PCM/PZM/BCM in traction control and electronic stability control.
  14. 1 point
    OldCadTech

    04 CTS Sunroof 1st gen or 2nd?

    If you're viewing them online you probably won't be able to tell them apart. The difference is the SUN ROOF build date ( NOT the vehicle ) and the ability to see through the sun roof panel, the second design will be 100% opaque. Also, the second design DOES NOT have a sunroof guide. I included the GM part number(s) which may or may not help you in your search. 1st Design - - Part Number 23144813 Sunshade Sun Roof Panel (TITANIUM) 90% OPAQUE) BUILT BEFORE 03/15/13 - WITH Sunroof Guide 2nd Design - - Part Number 23116434 Sunshade Sun Roof Panel (TITANIUM 100% OPAQUE) BUILT AFTER 03/15/13 - Without Sunroof Guide As a side note: If you're changing the entire unit, it shouldn't matter which design you get, either one should fit. If you're changing components it may be an entirely different crap shoot..
  15. 1 point
    Jan Olsson

    Write up on the V

    I thought I would do a write up on my experiences with the V so far. First of all, it is a truly amazing car and I don’t regret buying it for a tiny instance despite the fuel economy, insurance costs and taxes. I did a thorough research before I bought it and estimated the insurance costs, taxes and fuel economy pretty darn god. Since I use it as my daily driver it is important to me that it is comfortable, safe, fun to drive, practical and reasonable easy to work with. I prefer doing my own work on my cars, shops are in my opinion expensive and cut corners hoping that people will not notice. For instance my V wasn’t an exception from that rule. When I bought it they promised to fix some problems I had discovered. To be fair they told me about them before I did mention them myself so I figured that they had their act together. After all they are an authorized Cadillac dealer here in Sweden. But since I am suspicious by nature and like to know that a professional has done the work I did it myself They claimed that the engine oil was changed and it wasn’t. It was black and the OLM was at 55%. I replaced it myself. The brake fluid level was too high. Overfilled because they changed pads, Shops always does this. They top of the fluid even if the pads are almost worn down completely in order to fool the customer that the brakes are “top notch”. This of course is bull because the fluid reservoir almost always is matched to the brake system with respect to the volume of fluid. This means that if the level is at full with new pads the level is at the lower mark when the pads are due to change. The level will be brought back to the full mark with new pads installed. It won’t do any good to top of the fluid and you will have to drain fluid to not cause the fluid to pour out when replacing pads. It is just plain stupid. They should have replaced the coolant fluid, which they didn’t. I did that. The hand brake pads were completely destroyed confetti in the “drum” part of the discs when I really carefully removed them. And no, I did not kill them. J I replaced them. The replacement pads they put on weren’t Brembo but a very cheap aftermarket solution. Wagner for $60 for the lot of them. Downright dangerous after some spirited driving. Lost brakes completely after five hard brakes apply from about 100 mph down to 50 mph. I replaced them with OEM Brembo pads which made a HUGE improvement. Heard a grinding sound from the rear end. It seems like a pretty common concern and it always manifests when the car is cold, at moderate speeds and in turns only. It comes from the clutches…I hope. But I still have a warranty and insurance will pay the cost of an R&R if it ever comes to that. That is the only time I let a shop do the work. If it is for free… I did however try to replace the differential fluid. I’ll give it a few days to see if the sound persists. (Oh I did let a shop change catalytic converter on my wife’s STS. But that is because I didn’t have the space and time and thought that it is hard to mess a work like that up. The STS will revisit the shop because they somehow managed to weld it so poorly together that the exhaust system sometimes contacts the body and causes irritating sounds. That s ok on a Volvo but this is a Cadillac. Sorry for my rant. The infamous supercharger clatter. GM has released a TSB that says they will replace the supercharger for free but I will have to convince Cadillac Europe and the shop that it applies to them as well… Of course they managed to put the wheels in the wrong spots causing my tire pressure reading to be wrong. Not to worry, I have the tool to fix it. I wrote some very angry letters to Cadillac Europe and to the shop and at least got apologies and they also admitted that they did a poor job and promised me that they “changed their routines” but as I pointed out it wouldn’t help for the holes in my wallet so they got me the latest navigation DVD which is really expensive over here and not for sale to private persons. Well, better than nothing! I will write down driving impressions of the V later on but now it is time for me to have some quality time with my wife and an old James Bond movie.
  16. 1 point
    Cadillac Jim

    My DeVille Got Hit

    Tell the lawyer that you need a few days but don't tell him anything else. IANAL but I don't think that you ever need to give anyone your title or power of attorney over your title (the same thing, legally) except to sell the car. "Under Florida law" can mean anything; the exact statute, and case law on that statute, does have meaning but may or may not be relevant to any particular situation. As a generic phrase, it's BS. As a legal technique that they teach in law school under the topic "persuasive logical fallacies" it's called "appeal to authority" or "false authority." If you have decided to use another lawyer (which seems to be a good decision based on what I see on this thread), protect his ability to negotiate by not providing other hooks for the insurance company through further communications of any kind. That means being noncommittal with your current lawyer. Anything you tell him will almost certainly be passed on to the insurance company after being filtered. For example, if you say to your current lawyer not to tell the insurance company anymore, or that you plan to get a second opinion, they will likely covey that to the insurance company. Remember that this is a public forum and is picked up by search engines. If your user name here is known to your insurance company, you can bet that they are following this thread. There is a distinct possibility that it is anyway. Photos of your car, particularly if the license plate is not obscured, will identify the car for them, if they find the thread and people familiar with your case examine it.
  17. 1 point
    Cadillac Jim

    My DeVille Got Hit

    I predict that you will hear nothing for a week or two, then your lawyer will tell you that they are fixing your car.
  18. 1 point
    winterset

    My DeVille Got Hit

    To properly match/blend the paint, the front passenger door will need to be partially painted to blend the color. I do not believe the old technique of painting just a single panel is practiced anymore. The eye is focused on comparing the color match between two panels, but once they are blended within a panel, it is not noticeable. The paint shop / dealership should also give a lifetime guarantee on the repair work.
  19. 1 point
    The ride height sensors don't have anything to do with the shocks, electrically. They are little boxes that bolt to the chassis and have arms that stick out, then links from the ends of the arms to a suspension arm. All Cadillacs that have rear-end leveling have them on the rear. The ones that connect to the PZM have three-wire connectors (hot on start and run, ground, signal). But, I see your point, and also that you have moved on. Adding a bolt with a cam on it for quick adjustment of camber for road vs. track is a really great idea.
  20. 1 point
    OldCadTech

    My DeVille Got Hit

    Makes ya wanna get a rope!
  21. 1 point
    OldCadTech

    Power Steering Hose R+R

    Are you going to do the pressure hose replacement yourself? Are you small, wiry and under 40? If the answer to both of those questions was yes, then make the repair at home. If you have a lift, yes.... If you are over 50, don't have a lift but you like the feeling of power steering fluid dripping down your arm and lubricating your armpit, then make the repair at home. Power steering fluid to me is like castor oil that your parents made you take cuz it cured everything. I have an above average tool supply of specialty wrenches, line wrenches, air tools and I have replaced P/S pressure hoses on lots of Cadillacs, BUT.... I tackled a power steering pressure hose on my 98 Seville, I won but I looked like I lost when I crawled out several hours later. That thing kicked my hiney, took me three days to get clean If you STILL wish to continue.... Look at your old hose, does it have a P/Steering pressure switch connected to an in-line hose port? Does it have 2 hose sections or just one?
  22. 1 point
    Ok thanks, fellas. I have a lot of work to do in the next week or two, I guess. I will let you all know if I am able to get rid of the E046 code and also pass the smog test. I think threads posted here are much more useful when we can read about how to successfully solve particular problems and trouble codes seen on the cars. If the original posters just disappear at the end of a thread, we never know if a certain approach was successful or not.
  23. 1 point
    Jan Olsson

    Impression of the V

    I thought that I would give a brief summary of my driving impressions and thoughts about owning a 2012 CTS-V so far. I picked it up at the dealers 5 days ago and have already put 870 miles on it! Since I live in Sweden I’m used to very coarse road pavement and low profile tires and Swedish roads can be quite noisy. But I don’t mind because I know that the roads are to blame, not the Cadillac. Did you know that Toyota have a piece of test track in Japan to simulate Swedish roads? That is how bad the roads are. It is extremely uncommon to encounter REAL asphalt. What the Swedish road department calls asphalt is coarse gravel stuck together with tar. When the surface needs to be done they mill of about 1-2 inches of the old surface and pour out some new gravel/tar mixture. As a reference we did a journey to Legoland in Denmark (400 miles in all) and the noisiest pavement over there is quieter than the finest we have over here in the southern of Sweden… The V is extremely well behaving even in rain storms and is just a blast to drive. It sticks like glue to the road and obeys every adjustment instantly regardless of speed. Since I had the Magna Ride on my previous STS as well I’m already familiar with the concept but in the V it is taken to an entire new level. I found the V to provide a just as soft ride as my previous Jaguar Super V8 with air cushioning did! With the V’s perfect weight distribution and all supporting systems on it is extremely fun, safe and easy to drive even if you floor it. I managed to average 17.7 mpg on the way home from Denmark which I think is good considering the weight of the vehicle almost fully loaded. That was about 20 mph over posted speed mostly. I like going fast but not ridiculously fast all the time. I did however find an isolated straight stretch of freeway with no cars, no trees, wild life fences, no houses and no intersections and got up to 168 mph before I let of. It did take neither time nor road to get to that speed. WHAM and the V was up in speed! No wind noice to mention at all! I thought that the STS was stable at speeds and insensitive for winds, but that was before J Put the tranny in sport mode and sport suspension mode and you can overtake any car on any road with full confidence (if you feel comfortable with people honking and flashing the lights). The exterior and interior feels very solid and the controls are logical and well placed. I find the Recaros a perfect fit after some adjustments, the steering wheel feels a little bit to big but I’m sure that I will adapt to it. To explain (you can skip this rant if you like): I drive fast but I never drive dirty in the meaning of forcing other people to brake or veer for me. On the other hand people here do brake and veer from me even if I reenter the lane a hundred yards ahead of the car I’m passing just not to scare them. This I believe comes from uninvolved driving. Let me explain my thoughts. Today it is not “cool” to like to drive a car in Sweden. It is absolutely not supposed to be fun and that is, I believe, how Volvo remains in business. “Oh no! We are killing the polar bears, melting the planet, raising the see level with five yards etc. etc.” Since the easily misled people are convinced it is not socially acceptable to like to drive a car and the taxes and fines connected to driving are excruciating people buy a 100 hp Volkswagen and naturally get bored with driving and cars in general. Car driving has been degraded to just a mean to get from A to B. When people aren’t interested in something, they can’t be good at it. Where I live people break every traffic rule there is except from the speed limits on urban roads. I’m their direct opposite. I follow every single rule but really don’t care for the speed limits outside of the city limits. I generally drive just under about 20 mph to fast which is the breaking point for losing the license if the police discover it. I guess the reason they get angry is that when they floor their cars they can’t stop me from passing them. Over the last five years or so it seems to become a sport to hinder people as much as possible in the traffic. People change lanes just in front of you, forcing you to slam the brakes and then floor their car so you can’t pass them before they try to overtake the next car in line on the highways. People for that matter can go as slow as 40 on a 50 mph road and suddenly accelerate to 65 when you try to overtake them. The last couple of years I’ve seen a drastic increase in stupid and dangerous behavior in traffic. Truck drivers driving with booth their feet on the instrument panel, bus drivers reading newspapers while driving, women doing their make-up, of course a lot of texting, DVD-watching, talking with the passengers and looking at them while doing so instead of watching the road to mention a few. I have never been involved in an accident on my +435 k miles on the roads but I’m sure that when it finally happens it will be a frontal accident with some moron like that. And they call me a road hazard…
  24. 1 point
    My theory is that people don't go do a web-based business with significant investment (huge storage, fast fixed IP hookup) without a plan to have an IPO and cash out big. That thinking is what led to the dot-com boom and bust of the late 1990's, and the money-hungry behavior you see from some web sites and businesses, like Adobe. But once you sell shares and have a Board of Directors, you have investor pressure for return on investment. I keep getting e-mails from Photobucket that tell me that 100% of my photos are "third party hosted" which means that they are embedded in other web pages (not strictly true, but I do us Photobucket primarily to post scans and stuff on Caddyinfo), and that I need to buy their "Plus 500" plan that costs $40/month or $400/year. The thinking that people who come in from outside and analyze such sites see that Photobucket has 15 billion images and 100 million accounts and they want to monetize that database and customer base. I figure that they have been analyzing the photos, customers, and usage for years to pay for the site and I expect that. What I didn't expect is for them to decide that I was making money on other web sites where the photos were posted and want a cut. I don't make money from my web presence and I always say NO when someone tries to extract a credit card number for something that I don't need or already own. When I get around to it, I'll close my Photobucket account. I don't need the cloud for my photography, and I don't get paid for posting photos or pictures anywhere.
  25. 1 point
    Bruce Nunnally

    Moisture in taillight

    Here is a nice article on the topic: http://www.caddyinfo.com/taillight.htm