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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/30/2010 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Jan Olsson

    BBF we miss you.

    I miss BBF's posts. All that committed energy and all that knowledge. I'm sure that I'm not alone!
  2. 4 points
    Our lovely German host Sarah Sauer takes the 2015 Porsche Panamera S E-Hybrid for a spin. The Porsche Panamera S E-Hybrid is powered by a 3.0 liter V6 engine making 333 horsepower and than there's an electric-motor that makes 95 horsepower with a total output of 416 horsepower. Together with an 8-speed automatic transmission 0 to 60 mph will come in 5.2 seconds with a top speed of 167 mph. But is it worth the $99,000 price tag? Let's find out! With camera men Jan Gleitsmann and Jens Stratmann of Ausfahrt.tv!
  3. 3 points
    Göran W

    I need help.......

    Ok. Like this?
  4. 3 points
    Bruce Nunnally

    1956 Cadillac drawing

    Link; https://plus.google.com/113969460069344266731/posts/i4WipmeZqrf
  5. 3 points
    mjkubba

    STS

    As I promised first patch of my Cadillacs photos: More to come...
  6. 3 points
    I'm pretty much talking about the body, paint and interior. Although a lot of the mechanical parts are too. Even the shocks and struts.. They do need changing though.. It took me 10 years to do it, but this is my 400th post!! WOO HOO!!
  7. 3 points
    Problem: Parking brake does not release automatically Car in question: Seville 1998 – 2004 Symptom: Parking brake applied. Engine running, transmission lever set in gear. Parking brake does not release by itself, but when parking brake pedal is pushed slightly further and then released, parking brake will release. How the mechanism works: The parking brake pedal is held down by friction of a spring wound around a cylinder. This cylinder has a toothed wheel on top of it, which engages with a toothed wheel segment connected to the parking brake pedal. If one applies the parking brake, the pedal moves and turns the cylinder against the windings of the spring which gives no friction thus no locking force. Once the pedal is no longer pushed (you take your foot away) it tries to return. The cylinder tries to spin in the opposite direction with the windings of the spring, resulting in pulling down the spring and thus locking the cylinder, the pedal is held in position. When the solenoid engages to release the parking brake (or the emergency release lever is used), the windings of the spring are pushed open. The cylinder is set free, rotetes and the pedal returns to the normal position. Reason for malfunction: The springs sticks to the cylinder, even when the tension is released. A little metal lever inside the mechanism is slightly out of shape. Remedy: Remove complete parking brake mechanism. To do this, separate the front section of the parking brake cable under the car, below the drivers seat, near the sill. Unhook parking brake cable from plastic brackets (two). Remove sound insulation panel (two screws) and knee bolster (pull down after sound insulation panel is removed). Remove sill molding (pull up carefully). Remove footrest, start with the black plastic insert (pry with a screwdriver from the top), then undo two screws. Undo three 13mm nuts holding the parking brake mechanism to the body. Pry back carpet, remove rubber grommet where parking brake cable enters the body. Move parking brake mechanism downwards until you can reach the electrical connector on top of the solenoid, seperate the connector. From under the car, depress the springs where the parking brake cable enters the body, push cable in and remove complete parking brake assembly including cable. Study mechanism, look from the pedal side into the apparatus. Locate little tin lever which operates spring (second pic). Check how much slack is evident when you operate the emergency lever. Carefully bend lever with a screwdriver or similar tool until free play is nearly gone. Test release operation by applying the pedal and using emergency release lever. Can pedal be moved back easily? See linked pictures: Put everything back together in reverse order. Time needed: 2 hours (relaxed working) Tools needed: Set of screwdrivers Pliers 1/2“ ratchet set 1/4“ ratchet set Shop lamp Some patience Hoist helpful, but not mandatory. Parking brake cable can be worked on lying on the ground by the drivers side of the car. Please bear in mind that I'm no native english speaker, in case there are spelling mistakes.
  8. 2 points
    Bruce Nunnally

    99 deville engine knock

    I split the posts that refer to a private argument & are off topic to this discussion into the offtopic forum & hid them. Please keep any personal beefs off CaddyInfo. I can't make you guys any more mutually invisible to each other; you either need to ignore each other or discuss somewhere else.
  9. 2 points
    rockfangd

    Battery no charge

    Lol. I though curse words were only common with ford products, Oh wait it is all of them. Isnt it funny that even changing a light bulb can cause cursing
  10. 2 points
    Huge inventory of pre-owned, low-mileage vehicles available online Features easy-to-compare suggested pricing using Kelley Blue Book® Fair Market Range Extension of GM’s Shop-Click-Drive online shopping service DETROIT – Online shoppers in the U.S. looking for a used Chevrolet, Buick, GMC or Cadillac will soon have access to a national inventory of low-mileage former General Motors lease, daily rental and company-owned vehicles never before available to the public in one easy-to-navigate place. GM Chairman and CEO Mary Barra today announced the company is launching the Factory Pre-Owned Collection as another example of GM’s efforts to earn customers for life. “We know that many of our customers who are shopping for a used car want to complete more of the process online, and that number is growing,” Barra said. “GM is already a leader in online new car shopping with our Shop-Click-Drive service, and we are expanding it with the Factory Pre-Owned Collection, making GM the first automaker to offer this choice to consumers.” GM’s Factory Pre-Owned Collection will feature a nationwide inventory of more than 30,000 vehicles, all with fewer than 37,000 miles, and including an extended factory bumper-to-bumper limited warranty. Consumers can easily compare suggested prices on the site to what others in their area have paid using the Kelley Blue Book Fair Market Range, which is based in part on what others in the vehicle’s area have paid for the same or similar vehicles. Customers can also get a Carfax Vehicle History Report on the vehicles displayed on the site. The Factory Pre-Owned Collection site (www.factorypreownedcollection.com) will be available to consumers in February. “Kelley Blue Book’s mission is to provide this type of trusted valuation and car shopping information to help consumers make the best possible purchase decision,” said Jared Rowe, president of Cox Automotive Media Division, which includes Kelley Blue Book. Online shoppers who use the Factory Pre-Owned Collection will follow three simple steps: Browse the inventory to find the vehicle of their choice. Choose a participating GM dealer and reserve their vehicle using the Shop-Click-Drive experience. Finalize their purchase and take delivery of their vehicle from their selected dealer. The Factory Pre-Owned Collection also features a three-day/150-mile exchange program, a three-month trial of the OnStar Guidance Plan and the Sirius/XM Satellite Radio All-Access Package and more. Vehicles also come with roadside assistance and courtesy transportation during the warranty period. “Technology and consumer demands are disrupting the used car marketplace, and GM is leading the way in transforming the way used cars are sold,” said Alan Batey, president, GM North America. “The Factory Pre-Owned Collection creates a simpler, easier experience for our customers and offers them more choices, less hassle and greater peace of mind. It’s also great for our dealers and GM because it introduces new buyers to our brands and increases residual values. Everybody wins.”
  11. 2 points
    MAC

    Donald Trump!

    Need I say more? I notice very rarely is there political discussion at Caddyinfo. We all know politics is a divisive topic and no doubt we tend to shy away from political discussion in order to keep the peace. However, I have to chime in about Trump. He is a breath of fresh air, as far as his candor and no nonsene approach. Many feel he will bow out, but I don't think so. Unless he falls way behind in the polls, he's in it to win it. People are fed up with the status quo politicians on both sides of the isle. As far as I'm concerned, if a community organizer can become president, then a multi-billionaire businessman can become president. I'm tired of being lied to by politicians. For the first time in my lifetime a candidate (Donald Trump) is not affraid to tell it like it is.
  12. 2 points
    When the link goes live, I think that we should evaluate it. If the selection and prices are good, and there are a reasonable number of Cadillacs in the mix, perhaps a sticky post in the "Cadillacs for Sale" forum might be appropriate.
  13. 2 points
    BodybyFisher

    Northstar Engine

    Yes I remember that. I blamed a WOT for blowi ng my head gasket. Let me say that that WOT went to about 90 well beyond where I drove the engine before I actually abused the engine that day. But I will say this, if it happened that day, it was bound to happen any day at that point, it was a matter of time. A sound Northstar can be driven all day like that. My engine at that point had about 130K. You can see the push back in that thread I cant say we have ever seen anyone cause engine damage or blown head gasket doing a WOT and if it does happen the engine was on its last leg
  14. 2 points
    This is definitely a job requiring a Tech 2 to diagnose and/or correct. Unfortunately, you need a certified XLR tech at a dealership to work on it unless you have your own Tech 2 and a set of Service manuals. XLR Folding Top switches are fairly reliable, it's the potentiometers that determine moving component locations that aren't. The pots-potentiometers for my fellow geeks, (or position sensors) are responsible for 90% of the problems associated with the Folding Top. The position sensors (there are three) change their resistance when a component they're attached to moves. Each component has a retracted and extended position and corresponding resistance value (converted to counts by the Tech 2) depending on it's position. The Folding Top Control (FTC) module stores these values. Over time, it's very common for the values to drift as the sensors age, temperatures change, or they become loose -they're only held in place with one fastener. Once the expected (learned) sensor values don't match those stored in the FTC module, a Folding Top movement cycle (extend/retract) will stop. In many cases, when it stopped is an indicator of why it stopped. The Folding Top follows a pre-programmed sequence. When retracting, first, the windows lower. If they aren't indexed, (so they know where their lowered position is, the top will not move.) Nada. Zip. Nothing. If the windows are properly indexed, the front tonneau (three flaps behind the seats) raises, the rear deck lid raises, and the top retracts into the trunk. After that, the rear tonneau extends, and the rear deck lid lowers. To raise the roof, the opposite sequence occurs. Say for example, the folding top doesn't retract after the rear deck lid raises. (This assumes the hydraulic pump is good and the cantilever scissors mechanism that operates the rear deck lid is working properly too.) The front tonneau position sensor may be out of tolerance. Not enough to inhibit operation, but just enough to make the FTC module paranoid that it didn't raise, so it stops the cycle. It takes more time to contort one's body to connect the Tech 2 than it does to run a full diagnostic on the XLR. One of the diagnostic subroutines deals specifically with the Folding Top. It displays the component values (counts) the FTC expects, and shows the actual counts it reads during a movement cycle. By recording the stored values, it's easy to determine which sensor is out of tolerance when it doesn't match up. If they don't match, a Relearn is performed. This procedure records the sensor position counts and over-writes the prior values. In many cases, a Relearn will fix a sensor problem. If the sensor is going (or is) bad, it's just a temporary fix, and the sensor will require replacement. Again, a Relearn is required. This isn't meant to be a complete explanation of the Folding Top's operation, just a quick explanation of the most common problem most owners experience with it. 2004-2005 XLRs appear to be the most trouble-prone, and some changes (with retroactive mods) were made to the sensors in later years. But like anything else, as these vehicles age, they're going to need increasing amounts of TLC. CC
  15. 2 points
    From Craig's List Zero Mile Cadillac Flathead V8 and Trans still in crate since November of 1944. Have the original shipping docs for it. The Stuart and Chaffee Tanks in WW2 took twin cad motors as well as some other applications. This particular motor was originally destined for England for the Oxford Carrier, a tracked vehicle developed in 1944 but was held up for testing by Dec. because of waiting on Cadillac to ship motors, like his one. Read more http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/cto/5145842581.html
  16. 2 points
    I have been hunting down a wicked electrical problem for the last few months, and finally resolved it last night. I want to document my experiences, symptoms, and solutions so that if anybody else encounters this problem in the future, they can save themselves a lot of money, and a LOT of frustration. Problem Background and Symptoms After finishing my timsert job and putting the car back together, I was getting the ABS and Traction Control lights on the dash illuminated. Also, seemingly unrelated, my turn signals did not work. This problem would be intermittent. Once in a while, the ABS/Traction lights would go out while driving, and 1st gear would return. Sometimes the turn signals would work, other times they wouldn't. When things were working right, I noticed a very weird correlation between when I would flick the turn signal stalk, that this would immediately cause the ABS/Traction lights to come on. This relation was very key to solving the problem, something I wish I would have noticed earlier. I did lots of searching on the forums, and even found one other member with this exact turn signal EBTCM issue, but unfortunately he seemed to have never resolved it. I learned that many people had EBTCM issues, and they they tend to go bad on these cars. Scanning the codes on my car (1996 Seville SLS, OBDII), I was getting a current P1602, "loss of serial data from EBTCM". I got out my FSM, and meticulously followed the diagnostics tree in the manual to diagnose the problem. This involves a bunch of steps, which basically probes almost every connector pin on the EBTCM connector to check for continuity, shorts to ground, shorts to voltage, and opens. I ran this full diagnostic tree with my multimeter several times, and always came to the same conclusion at the end of the tree "Bad EBTCM, replace unit". Come to find out, these are $650 from the dealer brand new, so I scoured for one from junk yards and on ebay. I found a used on on ebay, but they guy wanted $299 which I felt was too much for a used one. He is a forum member here, and he agreed to bargain down to a reasonable price (thank you!). I received the used EBTCM, assuming this would alleviate all my problems, installed it, and NO GO. Still not working. I assumed I had just gotten a bad unit. I shipped it back to him, and he tested it in his car, and confirmed it was bad. So, he sent me a new one that he had tried out in his own car to make sure it worked before he sent it to me. Imagine my surprise when I installed it in my car and it still didn't work! At this point, I threw in the towel and gave up. I was planning to sell the car anyways, and would just take my losses selling it with a bad ABS/traction system. But, the turn signal issue was really bothering me, so I decided to try and trouble shoot that system. First things first, I got all new bulbs, and new flasher. Still nothing worked. I took apart the steering column and replaced the turn signal switch. Kind of a pain, and it still didn't fix the issue. Then I decided to follow the FSM's "electronics diagnosis" section. It starts by saying to probe the 3 wires going to the flasher module, check for shorts to ground, shorts to voltage, grounds, opens, AND reference voltage. This is KEY! My multimeter found no shorts, no opens, but I found something very weird in that my brown wire, which was supposed to be system voltage (12v), was only reading 2.3v. So I went in the trunk to access the rear fuse panel, and sure enough found only 2.3v back there as well. While I was back there, I checked all the other fuses since I had things apart, and found all of the other circuits with 12v, except for the turn signal fuse, and the console fuse, both with 2.3v. In the FSM, the electrical diagram for the turn signal wiring shows power for the circuit originating from one of the big Maxi-fuses (30amp) in the front fuse box under the hood. Probing up there, I found the same thing, just 2.3v. Now that's weird, because that is coming RIGHT off the battery (almost), and that was fine at 12v. So, I pulled the fuse, and found a very slight green corrosive haze on the terminal contacts. I wire brushed this clean, re-installed the Maxi-fuse, and checked the voltage - it was now 12v, as it should be. Tried out the turn signals, and they work! But OH MY GOD... so was the EBTCM!! The ABS/TCS lights were off, and I could drive totally normal, no ABS/Traction lights, and use my turn signals. And it worked continously, with no intermittent failures like before. I couldn't figure out why this EBTCM issue all of a sudden became corrected, until I found THIS diagram in the FSM: It shows that the "Batt 3" 30amp Maxi-fuse actually feeds both the turn signal circuit, and the EBTCM main power, through circuit #300. Corrosion on the Maxi-fuse terminals must have been causing a high resistance and therefore voltage drop on this line. All of the wires were intact, with no shorts, which is why when I was doing the EBTCM diagnostic tree, everything checked out. In my opinion, a MAJOR flaw in that diagnostic tree, is that it never asks you to verify +12v on that pin feeding the EBTCM! It has you check for shorts to ground, continuity, and opens, but never queries adequate voltage. Now that my EBTCM is getting 12v, it runs. Of course the module would not operate properly on 2.3v!! I'm surprise it even operated intermitently at that low voltage, but when it DID, flicking the turn signal stalk drew enough additional voltage on that #300 circuit, to cause the EBTCM to turn off, and thus illuminate the ABS/traction lights. Who would have guess that the EBTCM and turn signals were so closely integrated power-wise. The moral of the story... if you have an EBTCM problem AND turn signal problem... CHECK OUT CIRCUIT #300! Check the voltage at the small ABS fuse and Batt3 maxi-fuse under the hood, and the turn-signal fuse in the trunk. If they don't have 12v, you need to trace down where the high resistance in the circuit is. Corrosion on the maxi-fuse was my problem. I pulled my hair out over this issue, and hope to save someone else the hassle in the future.
  17. 2 points
    chrisman183

    IAC valve or TPS issue?

    thanks for the help everyone. It seems to be fixed, at least for the first couple trips I've taken. I replaced the TPS, the old one was really worn out, no spring return action and it spun very freely. Also cleaned the connections with some electrical connector cleaner. Started it up and it runs normally, for 50 miles so far.
  18. 2 points
    princess

    I'm Back and she is fixed

    Miss me? well I had some free time on my hands so I got with a buddy of mines I knew from Afghan and we decided to take a part my Northstar after a few overheating incidents on the highway and I am proud to say we have successfully repaired the engine with new head gasket(s) and bolts. Yes, it took us 3 1/2 months but here are the results. she remains stable at 190F on the highway sometimes 188F unless I'm going up a hill or putting a load on engine like passing then it goes to 192F The most ive seen is 196F after stopping to pay a toll and then proceeding up a steep long gradient (bay bridge) it returned to 190 proceeding off bridge. In traffic I have not seen it exceed 226F and that's after being stuck on a bridge for 25 minutes (guess I should stay away from bridges) I've driven from south jersey to Florida without any issues averaging 22.8 mpg which I am surprised for a 19yr old V8. 98,360 miles
  19. 2 points
    airmike

    History of sayings

    This is soooo interesting!! Totally feeling pretty blessed right now and not "piss poor"! They used to use urine to tan animal skins, so families used to all pee in a pot & then once a day it was taken & Sold to the tannery.......if you had to do this to survive you were "Piss Poor" But worse than that were the really poor folk who couldn't even afford to buy a pot......they "didn't have a pot to piss in" & were the lowest of the low The next time you are washing your hands and complain because the water temperature isn't just how you like it, think about how things used to be. Here are some facts about the 1500s: Most people got married in June because they took their yearly bath in May, and they still smelled pretty good by June.. However, since they were starting to smell . ...... . Brides carried a bouquet of flowers to hide the body odor. Hence the custom today of carrying a bouquet when getting Married. Baths consisted of a big tub filled with hot water. The man of the house had the privilege of the nice clean water, then all the other sons and men, then the women and finally the children. Last of all the babies. By then the water was so dirty you could actually lose someone in it.. Hence the saying, "Don't throw the baby out with the Bath water!" Houses had thatched roofs-thick straw-piled high, with no wood underneath. It was the only place for animals to get warm, so all the cats and other small animals (mice, bugs) lived in the roof. When it rained it became slippery and sometimes the animals would slip and fall off the roof... Hence the saying "It's raining cats and dogs." There was nothing to stop things from falling into the house. This posed a real problem in the bedroom where bugs and other droppings could mess up your nice clean bed. Hence, a bed with big posts and a sheet hung over the top afforded some protection. That's how canopy beds came into existence. The floor was dirt. Only the wealthy had something other than dirt. Hence the saying, "Dirt poor." The wealthy had slate floors that would get slippery in the winter when wet, so they spread thresh (straw) on floor to help keep their footing. As the winter wore on, they added more thresh until, when you opened the door, it would all start slipping outside. A piece of wood was placed in the entrance-way. Hence: a thresh hold. In those old days, they cooked in the kitchen with a big kettle that always hung over the fire.. Every day they lit the fire and added things to the pot. They ate mostly vegetables and did not get much meat. They would eat the stew for dinner, leaving leftovers in the pot to get cold overnight and then start over the next day. Sometimes stew had food in it that had been there for quite a while. Hence the rhyme: Peas porridge hot, peas porridge cold, peas porridge in the pot nine days old. Sometimes they could obtain pork, which made them feel quite special. When visitors came over, they would hang up their bacon to show off. It was a sign of wealth that a man could, "bring home the bacon." They would cut off a little to share with guests and would all sit around and chew the fat. Those with money had plates made of pewter. Food with high acid content caused some of the lead to leach onto the food, causing lead poisoning death. This happened most often with tomatoes, so for the next 400 years or so, tomatoes were considered poisonous. Bread was divided according to status. Workers got the burnt bottom of the loaf, the family got the middle, and guests got the top, or the upper crust. Lead cups were used to drink ale or whisky. The combination would Sometimes knock the imbibers out for a couple of days. Someone walking along the road would take them for dead and prepare them for burial.. They were laid out on the kitchen table for a couple of days and the family would gather around and eat and drink and wait and see if they would wake up. Hence the custom of holding a wake. England is old and small and the local folks started running out of places to bury people. So they would dig up coffins and would take the bones to a bone-house, and reuse the grave. When reopening these coffins, 1 out of 25 coffins were found to have scratch marks on the inside and they realized they had been burying people alive... So they would tie a string on the wrist of the corpse, lead it through the coffin and up through the ground and tie it to a bell. Someone would have to sit out in the graveyard all night (the graveyard shift.) to listen for the bell; thus, someone could be, saved by the bell or was considered a dead ringer. And that's the truth....Now, whoever said History was boring?
  20. 2 points
    Somewhat overdue; spy-pick (next to worthless) but it does announce a replacement coming. The SRX was pretty good to (and for) Cadillac.
  21. 2 points
    KHE

    05 DeVille - No A/C

    What are the vent temps. at the center outlet when the climate control is set to 60°? The range in pressures you posted - I assume the compressor kicks off at 34 psi on the low side and about 165 psi on the high side? It sounds like you have it about right. The vent temperature would be helpful to know. You do not want to overcharge it or the cooling performance will go down. There is probably a slow leak in the system - If it were my car, I'd run it and monitor the A/C performance. If it starts blowing warm air, you know there is a leak in the system. Check the condenser (mounted in front of the radiator) for wet/oily spots as well as all the connections on the hoses/lines.
  22. 2 points
    I have had this really annoying sound for years. It was a tapping/knocking sound only manifesting itself with the engine warm and only at idle and after about 1 minute of idle too. It originated from somewhere at the front of the engine area. I found out that the sound disappeared with the AC-compressor off and thought it was the problem until I discovered that it returned with vehicle in gear. Even with the AC off! Ok, so now what? I checked the accessories and everything seemed just fine except from perhaps a small axial play in the AC-compressor bearings but I was almost certain that the AC was fine. I tried to listen with a stethoscope and tried from underneath but could not locate the sound at all. Finally I came to the conclusion that there has to be something vibrating, like the engine oil cooler line, a loose fan shroud or something like that. The sound was usually gone when I put the car on a jack to add to the complexity. The sound did not get progressively worse and could be gone for weeks so I was certain that it really wasn't anything mechanical. This kept on going and was extremely annoying and slightly embarrassing because I always do all the work on my car (I have only visited repair shops twice since 1992). The other day I had to replace the left rear brake line and after the test drive I noticed that the sound was gone! I guess that one of the brake lines were close enough to the sub-frame to make contact with the right amount of heat and vibrations. Now I can finally get some peace
  23. 2 points
    Ryan drives the 2013 Cadillac XTS4 around through the Florida Everglades. Does this large sport sedan take it's cue from the mushy American sedans of the past or does it break new ground? Includes 0-60 and alligators! (Or are those crocodiles? No idea.)
  24. 2 points
    Ran by Linear Automotive at lunch after Joel sent an email identifying the part I put in the Roadster as the roll bar end links instead of the a-arm strut bushings. Took the roll bar in and we added that to the repair (repair/replace 2 bushing bolts, reattach roll bar). This shows the right rear leaf springs with the spacer block removed and re-assembled. In hind sight I should have asked the shop to repaint the springs, but task for another day. Work in progress, I just popped in and we were talking about the Roadster while I dropped off parts, and so I snapped some pics of it on the lift. This shows the left rear with the spacers still in the leaf, and the old shock. New right rear shock with concentric helper spring Duke Roadster is at alignment shop this evening, and I am sked to pick up tomorrow at 10 am at Linear.
  25. 2 points
    If you like it now, wait until it has all eight cylinders at full compression! Be careful with those tailgaters. Some of them are police. I do find the handling much more effective at losing tailgaters than the engine because at this late date on the East Coast no one expects an old Cadillac to handle like that. I've found that I can easily lose a Lexus with a brisk right turn without my wife noticing anything. And, it's perfectly legal as well as being safe and prudent, so long as you can see what's around the curve before you enter it. If you use the engine they can catch you later by simply ignoring the speed limit indefinitely and I have found that anyone who will tailgate like that will ignore the speed limit. Another tactic is effective if you do see a police car; drive next to it and a little ahead or wherever you can safely place yourself to minimize the distance between the tailgater and the driver of the police car. The last resort is dialing #77; the police are really a good friend on the road if you need one. I had several people track my CTS-V for a bit while on the trip back and successfully ignored all of them, in no small part because I look the part of the fuddy-duddy feather-foot, and I saw one of them pulled over by the Bears. Those guys give the Bears something to do.