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  1. 5 points
    Jan Olsson

    BBF we miss you.

    I miss BBF's posts. All that committed energy and all that knowledge. I'm sure that I'm not alone!
  2. 4 points
    Our lovely German host Sarah Sauer takes the 2015 Porsche Panamera S E-Hybrid for a spin. The Porsche Panamera S E-Hybrid is powered by a 3.0 liter V6 engine making 333 horsepower and than there's an electric-motor that makes 95 horsepower with a total output of 416 horsepower. Together with an 8-speed automatic transmission 0 to 60 mph will come in 5.2 seconds with a top speed of 167 mph. But is it worth the $99,000 price tag? Let's find out! With camera men Jan Gleitsmann and Jens Stratmann of Ausfahrt.tv!
  3. 3 points
    I watched the video a few times and it looks like the freeze out plug in the head is leaking, is that correct? Here are a few close ups. You will notice on one head the cam pulley is removed and in the other head there is no intake cam for locational perspective.
  4. 3 points
    Göran W

    I need help.......

    Ok. Like this?
  5. 3 points
    Bruce Nunnally

    1956 Cadillac drawing

    Link; https://plus.google.com/113969460069344266731/posts/i4WipmeZqrf
  6. 3 points
    mjkubba

    STS

    As I promised first patch of my Cadillacs photos: More to come...
  7. 3 points
    I'm pretty much talking about the body, paint and interior. Although a lot of the mechanical parts are too. Even the shocks and struts.. They do need changing though.. It took me 10 years to do it, but this is my 400th post!! WOO HOO!!
  8. 3 points
    Problem: Parking brake does not release automatically Car in question: Seville 1998 – 2004 Symptom: Parking brake applied. Engine running, transmission lever set in gear. Parking brake does not release by itself, but when parking brake pedal is pushed slightly further and then released, parking brake will release. How the mechanism works: The parking brake pedal is held down by friction of a spring wound around a cylinder. This cylinder has a toothed wheel on top of it, which engages with a toothed wheel segment connected to the parking brake pedal. If one applies the parking brake, the pedal moves and turns the cylinder against the windings of the spring which gives no friction thus no locking force. Once the pedal is no longer pushed (you take your foot away) it tries to return. The cylinder tries to spin in the opposite direction with the windings of the spring, resulting in pulling down the spring and thus locking the cylinder, the pedal is held in position. When the solenoid engages to release the parking brake (or the emergency release lever is used), the windings of the spring are pushed open. The cylinder is set free, rotetes and the pedal returns to the normal position. Reason for malfunction: The springs sticks to the cylinder, even when the tension is released. A little metal lever inside the mechanism is slightly out of shape. Remedy: Remove complete parking brake mechanism. To do this, separate the front section of the parking brake cable under the car, below the drivers seat, near the sill. Unhook parking brake cable from plastic brackets (two). Remove sound insulation panel (two screws) and knee bolster (pull down after sound insulation panel is removed). Remove sill molding (pull up carefully). Remove footrest, start with the black plastic insert (pry with a screwdriver from the top), then undo two screws. Undo three 13mm nuts holding the parking brake mechanism to the body. Pry back carpet, remove rubber grommet where parking brake cable enters the body. Move parking brake mechanism downwards until you can reach the electrical connector on top of the solenoid, seperate the connector. From under the car, depress the springs where the parking brake cable enters the body, push cable in and remove complete parking brake assembly including cable. Study mechanism, look from the pedal side into the apparatus. Locate little tin lever which operates spring (second pic). Check how much slack is evident when you operate the emergency lever. Carefully bend lever with a screwdriver or similar tool until free play is nearly gone. Test release operation by applying the pedal and using emergency release lever. Can pedal be moved back easily? See linked pictures: Put everything back together in reverse order. Time needed: 2 hours (relaxed working) Tools needed: Set of screwdrivers Pliers 1/2“ ratchet set 1/4“ ratchet set Shop lamp Some patience Hoist helpful, but not mandatory. Parking brake cable can be worked on lying on the ground by the drivers side of the car. Please bear in mind that I'm no native english speaker, in case there are spelling mistakes.
  9. 2 points
    OldCadTech

    Mystery coolant loss 4.6

    Thank you for the words, I believe you are a true technician and I mean that as a sincere compliment. A little history first: I started working at a Cadillac only dealership in '84 fresh out of tech school as a "test driver", my job was to test drive the vehicles to make sure the vehicle was fixed before it was returned to the customer. I hated the job, it was boring. I made it known to the service manager that I wanted to be a line tech. After a few months I was offered a position on the line as an A/C & "heavy line" tech, of course I took it. The 4.1 had just come out but we were busy with the 350 conversion diesel doing head gaskets and injection pumps. This was a very busy dealership and time management was a critical issue as "dispatch" would have repair orders stacked up and if you were asked to help you would. I had a rack and 2 flat stalls and they were almost always full, sometimes stacked one behind the other. So the "time is money" issue plays a big role, but I never put quantity above quality. Having the "test driver" bring a vehicle back to me was NOT going to happen. I do think shops that specialize in certain repairs can be more successful. As an example; If I had all the parts to replace the engine in an '85 Deville at 8am, I would have the new engine running by 2pm, and back to the customer at 5pm, including test drive. That kind of speed is from repetition, I did hundreds of them. That kind of repetition is nearly impossible to do in an independent repair shop. My number 1 priority ( or goal if you will ) on every engine job was to make it look like the engine had just rolled off the assembly line, all the way down to the wire loom retainers locked and secured in the brackets. That engine swap pays 12 or 13 hrs factory time so yes it is possible to do the job, do it right and still make money. If I was doing a Hyundai engine swap I would get my @## kicked on flat rate on the first one, break even on the second one and make money on the third one. There also would not be any of the problems you experienced.That same goal carried over to all the jobs, brakes, rear axle overhauls etc Troubleshooting was one of my favorite jobs, i loved the A/C and electrical diagnostics. Later I worked drivability and electrical but that was another dealership. I have the diagnostic flow chart ingrained into memory and I'm pretty sure it is still stuck to the side of my tool box. It is a methodology that works. The Cadillac dealership was a factory repair facility which meant the factory would bring vehicles there that other dealerships could not repair, they were assigned on a random basis depending on the problem. I have a few TSB's that were mine. Foremost was '86 - '87 E & K dash lights flicker ( I think that was the years, I've slept since then ) took me 4 days to find it was a faulty trunk pull down diode. it took me another full day to put the car back together. I got 6hrs flat rate for that including "other hours" authorized by the factory rep, but the point is, I still felt I had won I even did a time study for Cadillac on an oil filter adapter seal replace that prompted them to lower the factory repair time on it, I was not very popular for a while. The service manager asked me to NOT do any more time studies. There were a lot of good techs working at that dealership and there probably still is. I was there for 11 years, worked at other Cadillac/GM dealerships then started writing service for a few years. Eventually I was service manager for a Cadillac/GM dealership but high blood pressure forced me into a career change in 2002. There are good technicians working at independent repair shops too and I take my hat off to them. To be able to do quality work on a myriad of different vehicle types is truly an art form. i have worked in an independent facility but only for about a year, it's a different world. Training is a big issue, ( a thorough understanding of the basics is an absolute must ) along with the reluctance by some to use the proper tools for the job even when the tools are readily available. BUT by far the BIGGEST problem is, and you stated it yourself - ATTENTION TO DETAIL - without it, you end up with nothing more than a hack-job. Pride in your work shows in the final product that you deliver back to the customer. I'd love to do a NorthStar case half reseal with you and you could show me how to do the Time-Serts. So, what do you think? We could make a fortune! You would not believe the things the factory tried on the 4.1 & 4.5 to try and salvage the engine in an attempt to avoid the engine swap under warranty, we all know how that turned out.... My introduction to the NorthStar was with the Allante. I think i did the first case half reseal but I have no proof of that, I did the first one for that dealership though. I bet I can still beat flat rate on it, on any platform :) A saying that has stuck with me and I don't even remember where I heard it. THERE IS ALWAYS TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!! I hope I answered your questions and didn't ramble on too much. John
  10. 2 points
    rockfangd

    Idle relearn

    Welcome To Caddyinfo. You know I am not sure. It was over 4 years ago. I have never had it happen before but that is what the dealer said was wrong. I have to be honest it should be pretty easy to make sure it is installed properly. Next time I go to do one (Just bought another Deville) I will post a picture of it both the right way and a possible wrong way if there is one. Thank you for taking the time to read some threads, You can learn quite a bit
  11. 2 points
    rockfangd

    Battery no charge

    Lol. I though curse words were only common with ford products, Oh wait it is all of them. Isnt it funny that even changing a light bulb can cause cursing
  12. 2 points
    Btw 75 miles in texas will take you 15 minutes to get there
  13. 2 points
    BodybyFisher

    Northstar Engine

    Yes I remember that. I blamed a WOT for blowi ng my head gasket. Let me say that that WOT went to about 90 well beyond where I drove the engine before I actually abused the engine that day. But I will say this, if it happened that day, it was bound to happen any day at that point, it was a matter of time. A sound Northstar can be driven all day like that. My engine at that point had about 130K. You can see the push back in that thread I cant say we have ever seen anyone cause engine damage or blown head gasket doing a WOT and if it does happen the engine was on its last leg
  14. 2 points
    From Craig's List Zero Mile Cadillac Flathead V8 and Trans still in crate since November of 1944. Have the original shipping docs for it. The Stuart and Chaffee Tanks in WW2 took twin cad motors as well as some other applications. This particular motor was originally destined for England for the Oxford Carrier, a tracked vehicle developed in 1944 but was held up for testing by Dec. because of waiting on Cadillac to ship motors, like his one. Read more http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/cto/5145842581.html
  15. 2 points
    rockfangd

    My Seville made my day.

    Hi all. thought I would share. I took My 97 Seville out of winter storage today. It has been parked since october. I checked the oil, unhooked the battery tender, fired it up, and off I went. This car still runs and drives like new. clearly the reason why I stick with this generation Cadillac. There is definate differences between the 97 Seville and my 01 Eldo. Which makes me wonder what else Cadillac changed after 2000. Examples The Seville has instant snap, the eldorado has the snap but it is not like the Seville. the engine is very throaty and begs for more on the Seville, the eldo is not as throaty and does not sound as good. I also like not having the air pump setup on the Seville. My eldo has horrible torque steer, The Seville does not. My Seville has RSS, the eldo does not. (wish it did) And to top it off my Seville does not have the nagging front end shimmy that I still cannot cure on my eldo. My Seville thrilled me today. To go from storage to driving it like I stole it and it begged for more. It felt great. I might add that my 96 Deville rode just as good as the 97 Seville and had over 200k miles. What else did Cadillac do away with after year 2000?
  16. 2 points
    Somewhat overdue; spy-pick (next to worthless) but it does announce a replacement coming. The SRX was pretty good to (and for) Cadillac.
  17. 2 points
    Cadillac Jim

    Closer view of grille...

    I don't like the way he's looking at The Lady in White.
  18. 2 points
    JohnnyG

    First oil change advise...

    Jim, I agree with the first part of this comment. A lot of people forget about the one year limit on oil. Of course that statement doesn't include my Volt, which states 2 years. Unfortunately, I have never witnessed an OLM going to "0" after one year. Yes, I realize that it's also supposed to track time as well as the many other factors that impact oil life, but I've taken all of my cars past one year and have not seen it drop. As for my two cents worth on oil recommendations, you can't tell if an oil is bad by looking at it. If it "looks dirty" you will only be changing it for aesthetic reasons. All motor oils are generally made to be backward compatible. The fact that ZZDP levels were reduced means very little since those additives were replaced with boron or othe A/W compounds that do just as good a job. I'd use a modern synthetic of the proper grade (10W-30) in this car and never look back. The most important thing about an oil change on this year car has been overlooked in our replies, and that is to NOT overfill the crankcase. This car will hold 7.5 quarts with an oil filter replacement, but will run perfectly fine forever on 5 quarts. Do not fill the level to the FULL mark on the dipstick, but keep it about 1/4" down.
  19. 2 points
    Check out this supreme street rod. Big Block Chevrolet power is in this built street boulevard cruiser. This steel-bodied '39 Cadillac LaSalle features vintage air conditioning, power windows, power seating, custom sound, disc brakes, and many more custom features. The paint is sapphire blue with ghost flames. This car was filmed with Texas Classic Cars of Dallas on 5-22-14! ENJOY - Sam Love the engraved rear bumper. I would enjoy this as a weekend car.
  20. 2 points
    Not an '82. 1980 Was the last year for the carbureted 368 engine. 1981 got the V-8-6-4 version of the 368 engine - the last Cadillac big block. '82 was the first year for the HT-4100 engine - The subject car has the HT-4100 badging on the front fenders. That engine badge was only used for the 1982 and 1983 model years. The '84 Cadillacs did not have them and neither did the 1985 Eldorados, Sevilles, or Fleetwood Broughams even though they had the HT-4100 engines. Yeah, I know. And, a HT4100 emblem is visible in the pictures. But, with 10 mpg on premium gas reported, maybe they are talking about another car when they speak of gas mileage, one that is not shown in the pictures, perhaps a 1982 limousine based on the commercial chassis, which was the last 368. With a carbureted 368 and a stuck heat riser. </reaching> The limos had the V-8-6-4 through 1984. I think the 10 mpg is just a BS story to cater to the ignorant idiots who still believe Cadillacs only get 10 MPG...
  21. 2 points
    Ran by Linear Automotive at lunch after Joel sent an email identifying the part I put in the Roadster as the roll bar end links instead of the a-arm strut bushings. Took the roll bar in and we added that to the repair (repair/replace 2 bushing bolts, reattach roll bar). This shows the right rear leaf springs with the spacer block removed and re-assembled. In hind sight I should have asked the shop to repaint the springs, but task for another day. Work in progress, I just popped in and we were talking about the Roadster while I dropped off parts, and so I snapped some pics of it on the lift. This shows the left rear with the spacers still in the leaf, and the old shock. New right rear shock with concentric helper spring Duke Roadster is at alignment shop this evening, and I am sked to pick up tomorrow at 10 am at Linear.
  22. 2 points
    Nice I won the heavily worn assembly manual auction http://www.ebay.com/itm/Duke-Assembly-Manual-Classic-Roadsters-1939-Jaguar-/201066915532?nma=true&si=rbDNjdAkJN2cj4edpd5bN1MkOIE%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557 So soon we will have more info on several build topics
  23. 2 points
    I finished up about an hour ago and have been testing the car. The torque converter locks up, the mpg is in the 25-27 range and NO codes are stored! I forget who had the signature, "Happiness is a Cadillac with no codes." but I'm going to use the saying! I am so glad to be done with this project...
  24. 2 points
    If you like it now, wait until it has all eight cylinders at full compression! Be careful with those tailgaters. Some of them are police. I do find the handling much more effective at losing tailgaters than the engine because at this late date on the East Coast no one expects an old Cadillac to handle like that. I've found that I can easily lose a Lexus with a brisk right turn without my wife noticing anything. And, it's perfectly legal as well as being safe and prudent, so long as you can see what's around the curve before you enter it. If you use the engine they can catch you later by simply ignoring the speed limit indefinitely and I have found that anyone who will tailgate like that will ignore the speed limit. Another tactic is effective if you do see a police car; drive next to it and a little ahead or wherever you can safely place yourself to minimize the distance between the tailgater and the driver of the police car. The last resort is dialing #77; the police are really a good friend on the road if you need one. I had several people track my CTS-V for a bit while on the trip back and successfully ignored all of them, in no small part because I look the part of the fuddy-duddy feather-foot, and I saw one of them pulled over by the Bears. Those guys give the Bears something to do.
  25. 2 points
    PAUL T

    Work In Progress...

    Carla, I would locate the PCM. My book says it is located under the dash on the passenger side. See if you can pull it down and check the connection. It can also get wet if the heater core is leaking. Leave it down and see if tapping on it when the car acts up has any effect. I would almost bet that it might be going bad. Part of the diagnostics of the MAP is a bad PCM. But make sure you check the battery connection first. Make sure it is tight because a loose battery connection can cause the same problems.