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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/21/2018 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Lance, More than likely the cylinder walls and the rings are a little rusty. Is it on an engine stand? Does it move slightly or is it locked solid? Pull the spark-plugs if there were any installed, or the plastic caps and with an oil squirt can, squirt about a spoon full of engine oil in each cylinder and let it sit for about an hour. Try turning/rocking the crankshaft, if it won't move let it sit overnight and try again. If still no movement rotate the engine assembly so that one bank of cylinders is vertical, let it sit for an hour or so and then turn the engine so the other bank is vertical. Rinse & Repeat as needed. Once it starts moving, simply keep working it back and forth until you start getting complete revolutions, then you can go in the direction of normal rotation, CW if IRC
  2. 1 point
    The bad engine comes out, swap oil pans if new crate engine even has an oil pan. install new oil pump and pickup tube. The transmission bolt pattern should be the same.
  3. 1 point
    No there is luck involved. But in general for an iron block OHV engine, what has likely happened is a layer of rust has formed between the cylinders and the pistons. So some form of lubricant that will help break the rust up should let you free up the engine. There is a lot of varying advice on this topic on the internet -- everything from using a breaker bar on the crank to actually starting a fire in the cylinder to heat it up, or using dry ice on the bottom of the piston to cool it down. I am a bit more cautious and so I would try letting it soak a bit then see if you can gingerly free it up. You will also want to get the oil out of the cylinder before you try to start it up later to prevent hydrolock of course.
  4. 1 point

    Mailbag: A/C on causes Overheating

    I am certainly not the expert... The biggest snag is the crankshaft is different. More details here about differences... http://www.northstarperformance.com/interchange.php
  5. 1 point
    I don't believe it can, not easily anyway. Let's see what @Logan says
  6. 1 point
    I also had this happen to my daughters Saturn; it was the EVAP purge valve.
  7. 1 point
    Couple of years ago I had two completely different family owned GM products do this in the same month. Fill it up with gas....no start / very hard start. One was a 2002 Saturn...other was a 2009 Traverse. It was the same problem on each.....a no code evap purge solenoid failure. Pretty sure both were under the hood and fairly easy to change.
  8. 1 point
    interesting quote here: Read more: https://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Cadillac_engine_knowledge But again, I keep thinking that the powertrain in the 67 Deville will have most of the swap parts needed. My impression is the 65-67 had a 'new' transmission bolt pattern, and the engine came with an adapter ring to work with the stock 'new' transmission. However, both cars are 67 so again should be similar.
  9. 1 point
    Ok, I just checked with a good friend at Action Scrap yards, Scott, the 65 to 67 429 is the same engine regardless of whether it is a coupe, sedan or eldo. I hope that helps
  10. 1 point
    It just needed the pellets or some sealent in it and now no over heating i did not know that the northstar needed these pellets once u remove all the water or fluse the engine and it say it under the hood dont know why i kept over looking it had them just never thought to use them but i just dropped 2 in and like not even half a bottle of some block seal in it no more problems for now and it had passed all the test when we did them but thanks i really appreciate the help your time and help thanks again and i might be back got 4 more that i got to fix lol
  11. 1 point

    TPS and ICM Question

    Wires may be red. Probably more toward the engine. PCM harnesses should be fine. The wire you are looking for is larger in diameter than the ones to the PCM. Also likely by itself or in a bundle without a ton of wires
  12. 1 point

    TPS and ICM Question

    I think you need to poke around some more. It won't be out in the open.....it will be wrapped up pretty good with tape....sometimes you can feel a lump in the wires. Most will be sonic welded as shown.
  13. 1 point

    turn key no turnover

    it's starting fine with the new starter relay.
  14. 1 point

    The Rainsense story

    Thanks BBF. Yeah I suppose any of those would work, I just remember all the threads that say to use the special glue and how it has been drilled into our heads on this board over the years to use original parts :-)...
  15. 1 point
    The top was bad it is holding it ince i replaced it and the bypass i did not have a 90degree spliter had to run the lines up a little to the one i did have but it runs wit the air on it just goes up 1 or 2 lines nd drops back down and im still yet haven't tested the fans but i am goin to tomorrow to see whats goin on there but i can drive it with the AC on now it just go up and come back down every now and then
  16. 1 point

    TPS and ICM Question

    Ok, you checked fuses. From what I can see, this is a voltage mismatch between IGN 0 (Terminal 18) and IGN 1 (Terminal 19). I would monitor voltages on those I would hone in on S124, that splice is highlighted in the diagnostic tree in the FSM as a potential cause of 1634. I would find that splice and inspect it for soundness and corrosion. The FSM provides the location of S124 in the electrical schematic section, if you don't have the FSM I will scan the location information for you and post it. I just last year had a splice problem on a 95. Moisture intrusion caused corrosion and high resistance in a ground circuit. Find that splice and unwind it. As a check, you could monitor the voltage on IGN 0 and IGN 1 for stability and the same voltage, if it differs more than 2 volts, 1634 sets. This could also be an flaky connection at the PCM, R&Ring the C1 Connector may reestablish the connection's integrity, give it a nice spray of contact cleaner. Good luck, I hope this helps
  17. 1 point
    This appears to be an intermittent code because it is history. Why was this sensor replaced? Did you test the old sensor with an ohm meter for accuracy and proper calibration with an ohm meter? The resistance and temp parameters are in the FSM. What was the connector like when you replaced it? Did the connector feel loose when it was removed and replaced? Is there corrosion on the connector contacts? The description of this code: The DTC detects a CONTINUOUS open or short to HIGH in the ECT signal circuit or the ECT sensor. I suspect that the message "ENGINE HOT - AC OFF" is in fact because the AC is ON.... and that you are actually getting similar conditions with the AC OFF, but because the AC is OFF, you don't get this message. You seem to be getting a FALSE message. I have a feeling that your TEMP gauge is inaccurate and probably HIGH. Do not ignore this code, get this fixed, you will NEVER know if in fact you are overheating. Check the connector at the ECT sensor for corrosion, looseness and that it is properly connected. Check the wiring all the way up as far as you can go for burns and breaks Also, show us a photo of the gauge with the AC off. Notice if you see the gauge on HOT or jumping up to HOT while you drive. Let us know what you can find.
  18. 0 points
    That is very cool. What a find. Let me know how I can help, my parents, friends and I owned a ton of them. I miss my 66 and 68 convertibles wow
  19. 0 points
    I think your intuition in right on the engine but it will not be a direct powertrain (engine+transm) swap one will need part of this and that.