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adallak

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adallak last won the day on July 28 2023

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About adallak

  • Birthday 01/31/1959

Previous Fields

  • Car Model and Year
    1995 Fleetwood Brougham 138.XXX miles
  • Engine
    5.7L OHV V8

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    MA

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  1. Another update. I have ruled out the recently replaced thermostat, but IT was the problem. It gradually failed within a few months. Will keep the new radiator anyway. On the side note. I am in Pittsfield, MA now and for some reason people of this town are particularly in love with 1993-1996 Fleetwoods. People stop by and ask if it is for sale quite often. It will be for sale eventually within a year, but not right now.
  2. The car is fixed. The new radiator did it. All the temps are back to normal. Have not taken it for a long ride, but I do hope everything will be fine. Is it okay to keep only distilled water in the system for a few more days? I want to drain as much of rusty old coolant out of the system. I am still thinking of removing those stupid knock sensors/drain plugs to do a proper flush and drain. If I do break them (most likely I will), can I use broken sensors to fool the computer?
  3. Rockfungd, It is hard to tell how much exactly was removed, but I know the system takes almost 3 gallons. I did exactly what I have always done, abd it took only 1.5 gallon. The water pump was clean, took it off and put it back with new gasket. The radiator us new. The stat us new. I am afraid there us blockage inside the block and that caused all the issues... I am scared to take the car to unknown place for flushing. God knows how they flush and what will happen next. I am at friend's, but cannot stay here forever.
  4. Logan, I always used only green one. Took of the water pump and it was perfect, so put it back with new gaskets. The radiator is also new (not a perfect fit as I was assured, but probably will work. Something go is wrong. Tried to fill the system with distilled water the way I always did through the expansion tank with the bleeder on the stat housing open and it only took 1.5 gallon instead do of usual 3 gallons. I am stuck. There must be tons of rusted debris in the block and I have no way to flush leave alone take off the stupid knock sensors, GM decided to use as drain plugs. They hollow and twist and brake on old engines. Anyone knowing the guts of LT1?
  5. Mike, I tried to fill the system with distilled water, run a bit and then refill with 50/50 mix. Guess what - the system took only 1 gallon. I expected at least 3 gallons since there was some coolant in the engine block. The full capacity of LT1 is 4 gallons. Looks like there is a restriction inside the engine (cast iron) block. Now I am screwed up. Tow truck, unknown mechanic, lots of $$$ and an unknown result. I am at friend's, but I cannot stay there forever...
  6. Update. I have replaced the radiator. Pieces of rusted junk came out of the system. Cannot flush it, unfortunately. This time coolant looks reddish, rusty... Nothing seems to be wrong with the water pump. At least the (steel) impeller does not spin 9b the shaft. Nevertheless, I am planning to replace the pump, stat, radiator cap, and the temperature sensor. If it was indeed the rust, it will build up sooner or later. Need to get out of friend's place. Probably will have to take to a shop for a flush if the problem persists.
  7. Logan, I can actually take off the top plate of the pump to see if the impeller is spinning free, right? Or it will leak if I put it back (in case it is okay)? Heck, it is probably possible to pullout the shaft with the impeller and replace it with one from the new pump? That would save a lot of time.
  8. The common failure of GM radiators of 90sn has been a crack in the plastic radiator side tank. I have replaced it 11 years ago (just the side tank) and hoped I would never have another issue with the cooling system. Well the pump stated to leak 3 years an 11,000 miles ago and according to the records it was replaced some 50,000 miles ago by the original owner or his dealership. The pump will arrive on July 7. Before that, it does not make sense to touch the cooling system. Will update, of course.
  9. Thanks. I am ordering a pump and will wait with touching the cooling system until I have it delivered. As far as I recall the impeller was plastic. The pump was well made, though.
  10. Thank you, Logan. Unfortunately, that's what my guts tell me. Do you think a failing pump still can force coolant through the (partially clogged) heater core, but cannot force any coolant through the radiator? The latter was absolutely cold when the hot coolant boiled over. If I find no severe restriction in the radiator and nothing wrong with the thermostat, the next suspect would be the pump. Since I will have to take it off to check the impeller, it makes sense to have a new one waiting. I would just put the new one. Not a favorite job, especially in this hot and humid weather. Oh well. I may ask for too much, but any way to check the operation of the pump without taking it off? It is such a pain on LT1.
  11. Got the new radiator, but before I remove the old one I am still trying to figure out. Took it for a test drive. Just in 4 miles I had to stop. The temp climbed to 216F if I trust the temp sensor (I do) , opened the hood and saw this... Steam and coolant gushing out of the bottom of the expansion tank cap. Barely made to a friend's home. I knew it was coming and did not drive car till today. It seems like the radiator does not get any flow at all. The lower part of the inlet hose as well as whole radiator is cold.lThe both fans kicked in around 197 as they always did, but they were useless without radiator. The temp sensor is fine, even if it were not it has nothing to do with the stat opening and coolant circulating through the radiator. Any chance the water pump failed? It has been replaced by me 3 years and 11,000 miles ago. It is Gates. I am extremely frustrated since I am far away from home. Have plenty of tools in the trunk, though.
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