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Belt tensioner bolt stripped.....


acklac7

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I posted a while back about my belt tensioner bolt being stripped.....I am finally getting around to fixing it. I am thinking about removing the bolt and inserting a threaded rod, along with some J.B. weld. Then attaching the belt tensioner and putting a nut on the end of the rod to tighten it. Does anyone see any potential problems? also is it ok to insert a steel rod into a aluminum block? (remember Im using that J.B weld stuff)...thanks

A.J.

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I would just tap it to the next lager size bolt. An epoxy repair should only be used as a last resort. It takes very little torque to hold these bolts as the action against them is in shear, not tension.

Note: These bolts normally never need to be removed for service. To change the water pump belt just push in on the tensioner and slip the belt off or on.

Nice looking El Dorado!

-George

Drive'em like you own 'em. - ....................04 DTS............................

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Note: These bolts normally never need to be removed for service. To change the water pump belt just push in on the tensioner and slip the belt off or on.

I believe he's talking about the accessory drive tensioner. Indeed, removing it makes installing the belt much easier, and indeed, mine's stripped out as well. But as growe3 said, there's not much tension on that bolt and mine's been fine for over a year now.

Jason(2001 STS, White Diamond)

"When you turn your car on...does it return the favor?"

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Well mine appears to be lose, it is moving back in forth, and is making a "clacking" sound. A buddy of mine got a 2000 seville and his is not moving what so ever, it is a slightly differnt tensioner, but it has NO movement. Where mine moves back and forth to a great degree...sound like a problem?

A.J.

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Well mine appears to be lose, it is moving back in forth, and is making a "clacking" sound. A buddy of mine got a 2000 seville and his is not moving what so ever, it is a slightly differnt tensioner, but it has NO movement. Where mine moves back and forth to a great degree...sound like a problem?

I would remove the tension from the belt (via that tensioner), slip the belt off the PS pump pulley, and then try to work the tensioner by hand. Does it feel "loose" as mounted? Maybe the spring is just worn, allowing it to appear to "flutter" as the belt pulls on it?

Jason(2001 STS, White Diamond)

"When you turn your car on...does it return the favor?"

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I will hopefully check it out tommorrow....also how many volts is the power system supposed to generate. I looked at my buddys seville and it was @ 14.6 volts....mine stays @ 13.3 or 13.5....but NEVER goes over 14....I was thinking that the belt was slipping and not pulling the alternator fast enough and therfore causing the lack of voltage. This is a new alternator so it could be that it doesnt pump out 14 volts, but is it normall for a 95 to run with 13.1---13.4 volts?...thanks again

A.J.

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I will hopefully check it out tommorrow....also how many volts is the power system supposed to generate. I looked at my buddys seville and it was @ 14.6 volts....mine stays @ 13.3 or 13.5....but NEVER goes over 14....I was thinking that the belt was slipping and not pulling the alternator fast enough and therfore causing the lack of voltage.

That seems a little low, but will vary depending on conditions. The other day, it was raining in the evening and I had the headlights on, the wipers on, the HVAC on windshield defrost, and I also had the rear defroster on. In situations like that, I'd expect the volts to be in the 13v range somewhere. Normally, I'm around 14.1v or 14.2v.

It could be that the spring on your tensioner is worn and not tensioning the belt properly. I'd fix the tensioner before looking at the alternator again.

Jason(2001 STS, White Diamond)

"When you turn your car on...does it return the favor?"

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