1995 Seville sls Airbag light on in dash

[beledoux]

I was checking ALL my fuses in the fuse boxes and after I hooked the battery cable back up and started car I had AIR BAG dash MESSAGE service airbag

Please Help if you have any thoughts on what I might have done when checking fuses!!!! I cant even find a fuse that is related to the AIRBAG SYSTEM on the block

Thank You, Barry

beledoux@msn.com

[Bruce Nunnally]

normally the "airbag" fuse will say SRS for Supplemental Restraint System. Your owner's manual should show a diagram of what each fuse does.

[beledoux]

normally the "airbag" fuse will say SRS for Supplemental Restraint System. Your owner's manual should show a diagram of what each fuse does.

Thanks for the response Bruce but could pulling the fuses out cause the Airbag message after I put them all back in the EXACT same location? I have to believe that somehow my attempt to check all fuses is the culprit. and maybe the reason for my checking all the fuses is the real problen. I had a Caddy Mechanic ( Questionable) do work on my car about 6 months ago and he lost the fusebox covers. He promised to replace them and 6 mos. later I still have exposed boxes. Recently my Reading lights stayed on until I pulled out fuse, Next my wipers start but won't park until I Shut off the car and restart it, then my windshield washer stopped working, then my interior footlights wont shutoff, then my check engine light came on and a tech checked that out and said the Camspeed sensor was not connected ( BTW that is what the caddy tech replaced 6 months ago}. I am Starting to believe these electrical problems are even too much for trained Caddy Techs. I don't really believe that last comment but it is coming from a very very frustrated person.

Sorry to be complaining but I really believe that there is someone who can give me some ideas for me to try

Thank You

Barry

[Cadillac Jim]

First, get to a recycling yard and get the missing parts and covers off a wrecked car. Second, pull the fuses again and clean them off. Use steel wool on the fuse blades. If you don't have a volt-ammeter, you can get one for $15 at an auto parts store, a hardware store, or Radio Shack. You can get a really good one for $50. Use it to check each fuse for continuity.

[beledoux]

First, get to a recycling yard and get the missing parts and covers off a wrecked car. Second, pull the fuses again and clean them off. Use steel wool on the fuse blades. If you don't have a volt-ammeter, you can get one for $15 at an auto parts store, a hardware store, or Radio Shack. You can get a really good one for $50. Use it to check each fuse for continuity.

Jim, first I would like to thank you and the other members that are trying to help. You folks have put the caring and helping others back into being humans! Back to my problem though. I actually did remove all fuses and diagramed before removal due to the fact that although my owners manual shows location and description it does not say the amps needed. My diagram included all the amps per unit. I diagramed by hand and phoyo so I could remove and replace to correct places . I removed them all so I could inspect and wire brush all lrgs of fuse then I sprayed electronic clean on fuses and waited for dying ans rebuffed the legs to remove any residue not removed by cleaner. I then went to boxes and wiped down the boxes followed by cleaning them with the electronics spray. Could you explain how I would actually test the fuses with a voltmeter? I have one just not sure how to test the fuses. Also after the tech lost my covers , I have been searching the Salvage companys weekly, I believe most dont want to separate the covers from the boxes, I understand that. The dealership says that the parts are obsolete and they cant help me. I started this week requesting all the boxes with covers!!! TY Barry

[Cadillac Jim]

There are two things you can do to test the fuses. With the fuse out, put the meter on Ohms scale and measure the resistance between the leads of the meter. If the meter has an Ohms adjustment, tweak this to make the reading zero ohms. Then measure the resistance between the two blades of the fuse. If you need more information, read the instruction manual for the meter, and if that doesn't do it for you ask again here.

A fuse should measure very low resistance. A 10 Amp fuse should measure well under 1 Ohm. Larger fuses will measure even lower resistance.

My fuse block is labeled with acronyms that may be informative but are often cryptic, such as IGN 1 and DRL. I don't recall whether the Amps ratings are on the fuse bock in the car or not. The Amps ratings of the fuses are given in the FSM and I'm surprised that they aren't given in the owner's manual. There was an electrical system change between 1995 and 1996 so I don't have any confidence that my FSM applies to your car but if someone would scan in the fuse block overview on pages 8A-10-0, 8A-11-0, 8A-11-1, etc. or the equivalent pages in the 1995 FSM, that will provide you with a reference for fuse sizes. If you have specific questions, ask here either someone with information applicable to the 1995 model year will chime in or I'll do the best I can.

For the time being, I would cut Tupperware to fit and make duct tape hinges to keep moisture and such off the fuse blocks.

Get the OBD I codes from the HVAC (see link in my signature block for instructions) and post them here. The information that you can get that way will likely tell us what needs to be done to get your air bag light turned off.

[beledoux]

Jim I cant thank you enough for the info. This will keep me busy ALL HOLIDAY WEEKEND and I'm still thanking you! LOL Well, when I learn something new and proceed into things never travelled ( voltmeter) I am happiest of all. Move over airbag light your days are numbered!!!! Have a Great Weekend Jim

[beledoux]

Jim, I triumphed over the airbag light. and tupperwared the boxes. So, now I am trying to get a visual on the speed cam sensor electrical connector I have been told that the sensor is on the passenger side of the engine cylinder head on the front side of the rear head. Why am I not seeing the wire connector or the speedsensor. If I understood my my readind right it should look like a PCV valve with one bolt holding it on but I still cant see it go I have to remove anything other than the dress engine cover?

Thank You,

Barry

[beledoux]

Thank You

For all the help and your suggestions and corrections to my Caddy problems. I have been able to solve nearly all of them. This is truly a great site !!!!!

[Cadillac Jim]

My 1997 model year FSM, page 8A-201-19 Figure 38 shows the cam sensor as being on the rear head on the passenger side, up near the gasket for the cam cover, right at the rear of the head. The connector is a latching type facing the rear.

It's possible that if the car has been run with bad motor supports or dog-bone torque links that the wiring harness back there was beat against the firewall. Check the condition of the wires back there with a mirror and flashlight.