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Alternator not charging testing? and how to remove


post Nov 9 2009, 09:17 AM
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98 deville Northstar 4.6L V8 (LD8/L37)


Voltage on dash shows 12v the alternator is not charging battery, voltage at 12v at battery.
No battery lamp on dash no codes, is this a bad alternator?
How do I remove it what has to come out, manual shows raditor, fans air bag disconnect Etc etc, any tricks.

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post Nov 9 2009, 09:24 AM
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Try retrieving the DTC codes from your on board diagnostic computer. Go to the top of this page, click HOW TO, then DTC codes and then follow the directions for your year, if you have an alternator/charging problem a code may have been set


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post Nov 9 2009, 09:41 AM
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Showing the following:
Ipc B 1522
Trc U 1255 History
I cleared the other codes battery was disconnected causing history codes.

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post Nov 9 2009, 09:51 AM
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It does not sound like you are having a problem. What does the digital gage show immediately after startup. 12v at the battery is good. 12v or so running after the engine is warmed up is not a problem, less than 12v is

What symptoms are you having?

Clean the battery connections especially the positive connection at the battery with is a two wire sandwich, take off the red insulator

Have your battery load tested


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I realize that I am in fact BIASED, but that is why I am an Enthusiast!
Increases of temperature are human-caused. Decreases are nature-caused

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post Nov 9 2009, 10:20 AM
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QUOTE (BodybyFisher @ Nov 9 2009, 10:51 AM) *
It does not sound like you are having a problem. What does the digital gage show immediately after startup. 12v at the battery is good. 12v or so running after the engine is warmed up is not a problem, less than 12v is

What symptoms are you having?

Clean the battery connections especially the positive connection at the battery with is a two wire sandwich, take off the red insulator

Have your battery load tested


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post Nov 9 2009, 10:47 AM
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It does not sound like you are having a problem. What does the digital gage show immediately after startup. 12v at the battery is good. 12v or so running after the engine is warmed up is not a problem, less than 12v is

What symptoms are you having?

Clean the battery connections especially the positive connection at the battery with is a two wire sandwich, take off the red insulator

Have your battery load tested

Car would not turn over, charged the battery and its started fine, I have removed the cables and covers and cleaned both terminals.
Battery shows 11.4 with the feedback connector removed from alternator with alternator 2-pin removed it had a code of IPC B1910 current, so I am assuming it is seeing the alternator.
At started up with connector replaced it read 11.2 and now says battery not charging.
I will get the battery tested.

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post Nov 9 2009, 10:52 AM
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I am surprised you are not getting any low voltage/charging codes or the L terminal code if you are having an alternator problem. Check for a dead cell in the battery to start and check codes, post even history codes


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Increases of temperature are human-caused. Decreases are nature-caused

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post Nov 9 2009, 11:29 AM
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Brought battery to discount auto shows low voltage but not shorted, I am having them fully charge it now takes 35 min.
They said they could test the alternator on the car, is this a waste of time I used a volt meter and showed no charging.
The codes I listed where the only codes present, since battery is out I can check it when I get back.
This seems odd that the only code I recived is when I pulled the 2-pin plug on the alternator, then at 11.4 the battery and not charging came on. Am I missing something could the control unit not be sending it a signal to charge is there a way to test for this. It looks like a big job to remove it and would like to make sure and even how to remove it seems like a nightmare.
Manual says, remove raditor, fans, disable air bags on and on. Is there a better way to drop this alternator with out major surgery?

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post Nov 9 2009, 12:23 PM
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Battery is good so I guess I need to remove the alternator!
Any hints on the beat way to do this?
Thanks

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post Nov 9 2009, 01:09 PM
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Do a search, its not easy, but it can be done, I removed mine. Take off the inspection cover off the bottom and wheel well to gain more room to work. Give you have a 98 maybe your brushes are worn, but I would have liked to see a DTC code


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Increases of temperature are human-caused. Decreases are nature-caused

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post Nov 9 2009, 02:33 PM
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I'm not sure if the '98 is the same as my '96. I did mine over 2 years ago. I did not remove the radiator (I did have to remove a fan In addition to the access pannel - which was no big deal) the alternator needs to be rotated in such a way that it can be dropped down & out between the radiator, and the block. Only trick I can offer is to protect your radiator with some cardboard so as you are pulling the alternator down, you don't mess up the radiator. It's very tight clearance. - also make sure you get an ACDELCO, or have yours rebuilt with ACDELCO parts.

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post Nov 9 2009, 02:46 PM
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One more thing, put a piece of plywood in front of the radiator so you dont damage it with the alternator


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I realize that I am in fact BIASED, but that is why I am an Enthusiast!
Increases of temperature are human-caused. Decreases are nature-caused

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post Nov 10 2009, 12:10 PM
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I got it replaced, did not have to remove the radiator, thanks everyone for the help.

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post Nov 10 2009, 01:41 PM
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QUOTE (Tampa cady @ Nov 10 2009, 01:10 PM) *
I got it replaced, did not have to remove the radiator, thanks everyone for the help.



So the bottom line?, was it bad?


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Increases of temperature are human-caused. Decreases are nature-caused

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post Nov 10 2009, 07:33 PM
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I have restored 4 Porsche 928's and it's not as bad. I work on my toys but my wifes caddy is a project, it is very high tech for the year.
I have a couple of other issues with the air and a shudder at steady cruze, but will start another thread.

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