Need part # for front left Suspension Position Sensor

[jcobz28]

Throwing code RS0060. Followed FSM diagnostic tree and it says to replace the sensor. I'm seeing 0.3v all the time for the data output from this sensor (spec is 0.35v-4.5v). Probing between the red and green wires on the connector shows slight continuance (high resistance), when those 2 circuits should be totally separate. Must be a slight short inside the sensor.

Anyways, I need the part # and don't know where to find it. If someone could refer me to a good place to look up part #'s as well, that would be great! It's the front left suspension position sensor.

Thanks!

-Jacob

[cyrez00]

Throwing code RS0060. Followed FSM diagnostic tree and it says to replace the sensor. I'm seeing 0.3v all the time for the data output from this sensor (spec is 0.35v-4.5v). Probing between the red and green wires on the connector shows slight continuance (high resistance), when those 2 circuits should be totally separate. Must be a slight short inside the sensor.

Anyways, I need the part # and don't know where to find it. If someone could refer me to a good place to look up part #'s as well, that would be great! It's the front left suspension position sensor.

Thanks!

-Jacob

no doubt you will be able to find it at www.rockauto.com

Good luck.

Marc.

[jcobz28]

nope.

thanks for the suggestion though! anyone else?

[kcd1184]

Throwing code RS0060. Followed FSM diagnostic tree and it says to replace the sensor. I'm seeing 0.3v all the time for the data output from this sensor (spec is 0.35v-4.5v). Probing between the red and green wires on the connector shows slight continuance (high resistance), when those 2 circuits should be totally separate. Must be a slight short inside the sensor.

Anyways, I need the part # and don't know where to find it. If someone could refer me to a good place to look up part #'s as well, that would be great! It's the front left suspension position sensor.

Thanks!

-Jacob

Try gmpartsdirect.com Part#22153236 Out the door $289.59 I've got one still in the box (from gmpartsdirect) for a 94 Eldo that I never installed. I will sell it for less than their price, but I am checking on compatibility. My # is 22153081

[Barry94]

I had a front position sensor fail. At that time they were almost $500.00 each.

Rather than replacing the sensor, I just "fudged" the correct voltage feed back to the computer.

It's a simple circuit, parts should be around $ 5.00.

The following year the other sensor failed, it got the same circuit.

If you're interested, let me know and I'll post the circuit diagram.

Maydog did have the diagram hosted on his web site, however I just tried it and the

link no longer works.

Here's a link with some discussions on the position sensors.

http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?sho...227&hl=so61

Barry

[jcobz28]

Barry94 - YES, YES, YES, please post that! I was brainstorming how to do something like this, but if there is a documented method out there that works, I would definitely want to just copy that.

I read the Maydog posting, and it's good info. Thanks. But, like you said, dead link on how to make the circuitry. My sensor failure is intermittent as well, just like everyone else's in that post.

Looking forward to seeing that wiring diagram!!! Thanks!

-Jacob

[Barry94]

Barry94 - YES, YES, YES, please post that! I was brainstorming how to do something like this, but if there is a documented method out there that works, I would definitely want to just copy that.

I read the Maydog posting, and it's good info. Thanks. But, like you said, dead link on how to make the circuitry. My sensor failure is intermittent as well, just like everyone else's in that post.

Looking forward to seeing that wiring diagram!!! Thanks!

-Jacob

Hi Jacob, here is the info on the position sensor circuit. I did both my front position sensors

about five years ago and they are still working fine. Just seal up the circuit well to keep

the moisture out.

Barry

"There are three wires to the sensor.

Each sensor has a "supply" voltage, usually 8V DC.

Each sensor has a ground wire.

Each sensor has a "signal" output back to the computer.

When the signal goes outside of it's operating range (Operating Range 0 - 5V), the computer

will report a fault with that sensor.

The front position sensors work on an output signal of 0 - 5V, where 2.5V is the "normal"

output for the sensor when you are driving normal on a flat road.

What you need to do is to provide a constant 2.5v voltage to the "signal" line of the sensor.

The computer will think you're driving on flat level road. (forever)

You do this by removing the sensor from the car and removing the clear "filler" that covers the circuit card in the sensor. I used a sharpened popsicle stick.

(Didn't want to destroy anything by using a metal object)

Expose the three wires that attach to the circuit card in the sensor.

On the front Position sensors, Purple=8V, Black=Ground, Orange=Signal back to the computer.

Cut the wires from the circuit card inside the sensor.

Attach one end of a 220 Ohm 1/4 watt resistor to the Purple=8V wire.

Attach the other end of the resistor to the Orange=Signal wire.

Also attach a Zener Diode (2.5V rating) to the Orange=Signal wire, and the other end to Black=ground.

(Resistor & Zener Diode available from a electronics store, eg. Radio Shack)

This will provide a constant 2.5V reference to the computer.

(After you have tested it.)

Reseal the sensor with lots of RTV to provide a water/weather tight area of the repair.

The computer will never complain again about the sensor.

Good Luck."

[jcobz28]

Thanks so much! I will try this over the holiday weekend and let you know how it turns out!

-Jacob

[jcobz28]

I went to Radioshack, and found a very limited selection of resistors and diodes. The salesman told me that corporate is really phasing out their stock of this type of stuff. It was 3 small drawers in the back of the store. I remember when they used to have an entire wall dedicated to this kind of stuff! Now all they want to sell you is a cell phone plan or GPS system.... consumerism!

I placed an order with DigiKey instead. Of course, the smallest amount I could order was 10 diodes, 10 resistors, which still only totals $2.46, but slap on a $5.00 handling fee, and $7.00 UPS ground, and I got myself a $15 bill!

But I DO have enough parts to repair 9 more of these sensors. So... anybody want a "Service Ride Control repair kit" for $5 shipped? (After saying that, now I feel dirty, like those Ebay scammers who sell "Add 25+hp IAT sensor!" upgrades, that are really just a resistor.)

BTW, the Zener diode(s) I got are rated at 2.5v, but 1/2W. I assume the 1/2W is ok?? You didn't specify, but they didn't sell 1/4W ones, just 225mW, and 1/2W, so I went on the side of caution with the slightly bigger one.

[maydog]

Hi there,

I see you found the diagram that I had. I have reposted my webpage anyway and it will remain up for some time.

Regarding the position sensor circuit, you may also get by with a simple resistive voltage divider instead of the zener setup in the diagram - though that is untested.

I really don't visit this site anymore - the caddys are long gone. I replaced them with minivans - I sill respond to emails though.

Happy motoring.

[jcobz28]

I made the circuit as described, and it got rid of the code. BUT, it's sending 0.8v back the PCM as the signal, not 2.5v. While this is still within the tolerable range to no trigger the code, I assume this is going to give me either a permanent soft or hard ride from this one shock. Anybody know which it is? hard/soft?

Any ideas why the circuit is replying with 0.8v. and not 2.5v as it theoretically should? Maybe zener diode out of spec? How would I test a zener diode? I tested the resistor w/ my ohm-meter and it is right at spec.

[med]

Throwing code RS0060. Followed FSM diagnostic tree and it says to replace the sensor. I'm seeing 0.3v all the time for the data output from this sensor (spec is 0.35v-4.5v). Probing between the red and green wires on the connector shows slight continuance (high resistance), when those 2 circuits should be totally separate. Must be a slight short inside the sensor.

Anyways, I need the part # and don't know where to find it. If someone could refer me to a good place to look up part #'s as well, that would be great! It's the front left suspension position sensor.

Thanks!

-Jacob

Junk Yard? Remove it yourself. These along with accelerometers are cheap. Especially around Christmas time. Tell them you need it cheap because you have twenty kids and need to feed them . Seriously though, they are 20 bucks are less if you remove them from the junk car yourself. Get a bunch of them as you'll be replacing another one soon if Murphy's Law holds true. Good luck. I know the 1994 and earlier uses a different sensor, that is more like a rod inside of cylinder (and they suck) as they are easily compromised by exposure of the electronics to the elements (despite the sealant). If you're good at soldering and wish to seal it yourself, I'm confidant that you might not need to ever replace it again. Just my two cents. Good luck and hope you don't spend too much on this aggravation.

[Barry94]

I made the circuit as described, and it got rid of the code. BUT, it's sending 0.8v back the PCM as the signal, not 2.5v. While this is still within the tolerable range to no trigger the code, I assume this is going to give me either a permanent soft or hard ride from this one shock. Anybody know which it is? hard/soft?

Any ideas why the circuit is replying with 0.8v. and not 2.5v as it theoretically should? Maybe zener diode out of spec? How would I test a zener diode? I tested the resistor w/ my ohm-meter and it is right at spec.

Hi Jacob, you're almost there with the circuit.

Here are a few things to check.

1/ Did you disconnect the wires from the sensor circuit board. In other words, the three wires from the

computer/car should NOT have any connections to the existing sensor.

2/ Is the Zener diode mounted correctly. The end with the "band" on it, attaches to the sensor wire, not ground.

3/ Verify that you have at least 6-8V supply voltage.

I can't think of anything else at the moment.

If you cannot get the correct voltage, then maybe remove the zener and try the circuit with a 9V battery to

verify that the circuit is correct and with an output of approx. 2.5V.

Barry

[jcobz28]

Is the Zener diode mounted correctly. The end with the "band" on it, attaches to the sensor wire, not ground.

OH! That's it then. I did this backwards. I read somewhere on the net that the zener diode dumps excess voltage to ground, and that the side with the band attaches to the ground. Guess I got it backwards. I will reverse it and hopefully things work as planned.

Curious though... isn't a diode supposed to prevent current from going the wrong way? i.e. why would it work at all then with the way I have it set up backwards?

And yes, I confirmed 6v supply voltage and the circuit board was totally cut out of the loop:

[Barry94]

Is the Zener diode mounted correctly. The end with the "band" on it, attaches to the sensor wire, not ground.

OH! That's it then. I did this backwards. I read somewhere on the net that the zener diode dumps excess voltage to ground, and that the side with the band attaches to the ground. Guess I got it backwards. I will reverse it and hopefully things work as planned.

Curious though... isn't a diode supposed to prevent current from going the wrong way? i.e. why would it work at all then with the way I have it set up backwards?

And yes, I confirmed 6v supply voltage and the circuit board was totally cut out of the loop:

Here is a description better than I can explain how a Zener works.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zener_diode

I see your position sensor is quite different than on a '94, as "med" had mentioned.

Looks like the electrical is the same.

Barry

[jcobz28]

Wow, that was a major flashback to college physics. Glad to see I remember absolutely nothing about it. lol. Anyways, I definitely installed the zener diode backwards, and according to the Wiki article, that will permanently damage the diode. Good thing Digikey made me buy them in a 10-pack, so I have 9 more tries left! Thanks for the info.

[jcobz28]

And yes, my '96 sensor was different from Maddogs decription in that I had different color wires. They still served the same function, just different colors. I just verified with my multimeter. Red = +6v, black = ground, blue = signal return.

[jcobz28]

It worked! Thanks. It was as simple as flipping the diode around. Although, I did totally rebuild the circuit using a new diode and resistor. Instrument panel shows 2.5v exactly! Thanks!

[saher00]

Dear, barry

I have Cadillac 2002 DTS can I make the same circuit with the same components my other question as you know the Cadillac 2002 has 4 sensors, do I need to bullied the same circuit for each sensor wire transmuting the signal to the computer, and do I need to disconnect the sensor or cut the wires going to it, and if it possible what wires colors for the sensors all Cadillac are the same colors if not so witch wires color I need to use

Thank you

Best regards

saher

[Barry94]

Dear, barry

I have Cadillac 2002 DTS can I make the same circuit with the same components my other question as you know the Cadillac 2002 has 4 sensors, do I need to bullied the same circuit for each sensor wire transmuting the signal to the computer, and do I need to disconnect the sensor or cut the wires going to it, and if it possible what wires colors for the sensors all Cadillac are the same colors if not so witch wires color I need to use

Thank you

Best regards

saher

Sorry, I have no knowledge of the 2002 DTS sensors. You would need to check out the function of the sensor in a GM service manual. If the circuit description reads the same, then likely the circuit may work as well. You need to know voltage "in", voltage(signal) "out" of the DTS sensor.

One circuit per sensor would be the best. You could have a central "feed" (Voltage/signal out) and feed that to all four sensors at the same time. (Would require several long runs of wire, not too practical.

"do I need to disconnect the sensor or cut the wires going to it". Post #7 addresses that.

I believe that all Cadillac models/years use different color wires. You would need a service manual for your Model/year to know what wires/colors to use.

Barry