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RSS C0625


2000 STS MN

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Thanks to all for the code info.

I have a Left Rear Position Sensor Malfunction. (RSS C0625). My STS is riding very high in the rear. So when my buddies pile in the back seat does the sensor work from pressure from the shocks? Right now with a empty back seat the shocks are fully extended. Does anybody know if this sensor can be fixed ? If not where to purchase a resonable cost sensor? Is this the unit I see in the wheel well? I have 125,000 miles on the car and only a ABS C1246 (brake pad) and this.....not to bad. It does use alot of oil.

Thanks,

John

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....

Does anybody know if this sensor can be fixed ? If not where to purchase a resonable cost sensor? Is this the unit I see in the wheel well? I have 125,000 miles on the car and only a ABS C1246 (brake pad) and this.....not to bad. It does use alot of oil.

Thanks,

John

If you have electronic repair experience and access to SMT components, it probably can be repaired.

I would call Brasington Cadillac-Saab for parts; 352-378-5301 (have your VIN handy).

The sensor is mounted on the chassis forward of the wheel with a rod that connects to the suspension.

First things first. Make sure the rod that moves the sensor arm is attached properly and not bent. The sensor must be firmly attached to the chassis.

Check the wire harness from the sensor to the point it connects to the chassis wiring looking for loose/damaged/corroded connectors, damaged wiring and other obvious damage. If you are experienced and comfortable with a VOM, I can tell you the pin-out and the values you can expect to measure at the sensor connector.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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Thanks. I will check out the sensor for damage and functionality. I do have a Volt/OHM meter also and would appreciate any info.

If you have electronic repair experience and access to SMT components, it probably can be repaired.

I would call Brasington Cadillac-Saab for parts; 352-378-5301 (have your VIN handy).

The sensor is mounted on the chassis forward of the wheel with a rod that connects to the suspension.

First things first. Make sure the rod that moves the sensor arm is attached properly and not bent. The sensor must be firmly attached to the chassis.

Check the wire harness from the sensor to the point it connects to the chassis wiring looking for loose/damaged/corroded connectors, damaged wiring and other obvious damage. If you are experienced and comfortable with a VOM, I can tell you the pin-out and the values you can expect to measure at the sensor connector.

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The position sensor is a potentiometer.

Follow the sensor wire harness inboard from the wheel and disconnect the 3 pin connector at the chassis harness. It is easier to get to the connector from the rear of the car (as opposed to the side of the car).

Start with the sensor half of that connector. The outside pins are the ends of the potentiometer; you should read something like 850 to 900 Ohms across the outside pins. You should not see an open circuit reading.

Next put the Ohmeter between either end pin and the center pin (the center pin is the wiper arm of the pot.). Have a helper slowly move the arm on the sensor up and down to its full travel limits. You should see a smoothly increasing / decreasing resistance value. Any meter jumpiness indicates a dirty/corroded/broken wiper arm.

At the chassis side of the connector, with key ON, you should measure approximately 5 volts across the two end pins.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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I removed the wheel and removed the potentiometer, could see better and took pictures. Using my VOM across end leads of the device I had no reading. The one end pin and middle pin I got a resistance reading but not smooth. The first 1/4 travel of the arm had a very quick and rapid raise than the remaining had a slow and steady raise. The other end pin and middle gives no meter reading. The chassis connector with the key to (ON) I cannot get any volt reading between the end pins. It is clean and tried numerous times.

The position sensor is a potentiometer.

Follow the sensor wire harness inboard from the wheel and disconnect the 3 pin connector at the chassis harness. It is easier to get to the connector from the rear of the car (as opposed to the side of the car).

Start with the sensor half of that connector. The outside pins are the ends of the potentiometer; you should read something like 850 to 900 Ohms across the outside pins. You should not see an open circuit reading.

Next put the Ohmeter between either end pin and the center pin (the center pin is the wiper arm of the pot.). Have a helper slowly move the arm on the sensor up and down to its full travel limits. You should see a smoothly increasing / decreasing resistance value. Any meter jumpiness indicates a dirty/corroded/broken wiper arm.

At the chassis side of the connector, with key ON, you should measure approximately 5 volts across the two end pins.

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I removed the wheel and removed the potentiometer, could see better and took pictures. Using my VOM across end leads of the device I had no reading. The one end pin and middle pin I got a resistance reading but not smooth. The first 1/4 travel of the arm had a very quick and rapid raise than the remaining had a slow and steady raise. The other end pin and middle gives no meter reading.....

That would be a 95% certain failed position sensor.

I'll need some time to noodle out the lack of voltage at the chassis connector.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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I removed the wheel and removed the potentiometer, could see better and took pictures. Using my VOM across end leads of the device I had no reading. The one end pin and middle pin I got a resistance reading but not smooth. The first 1/4 travel of the arm had a very quick and rapid raise than the remaining had a slow and steady raise. The other end pin and middle gives no meter reading.....

That would be a 95% certain failed position sensor.

I'll need some time to noodle out the lack of voltage at the chassis connector.

Thanks for the help. The voltage must be getting to the the sensor because the rear end would get a errored signal to pump up the shocks. Are the left and right sensors totaly independant? The rear was pumped up to the max equally on both sides. The left was not high and right low.

I will replace the unit and see what happens.

Thank you very much, this will cost me only the price of the unit. Will let you know how it goes.

John

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I removed the wheel and removed the potentiometer, could see better and took pictures. Using my VOM across end leads of the device I had no reading. The one end pin and middle pin I got a resistance reading but not smooth. The first 1/4 travel of the arm had a very quick and rapid raise than the remaining had a slow and steady raise. The other end pin and middle gives no meter reading.....

That would be a 95% certain failed position sensor.

I'll need some time to noodle out the lack of voltage at the chassis connector.

Thanks for the help. The voltage must be getting to the the sensor because the rear end would get a errored signal to pump up the shocks. Are the left and right sensors totaly independant? The rear was pumped up to the max equally on both sides. The left was not high and right low.

I will replace the unit and see what happens.

Thank you very much, this will cost me only the price of the unit. Will let you know how it goes.

John

You might be able to find a sensor at a salvage yard. Be sure to get one from the same side of the car.

The right and left sensors are independent and and their primary function is an input to the CVRSS system for shock stiffness control. It is convenient to also use the LR sensor as an input for the automatic level control compressor.

The air bags in the shocks are plumbed in parallel; they both see the same pressure.

Be sure to let us know how you make out with a replacement sensor.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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Jim,

I purchased a new Delphi potentiometer. $190 retail, I paid $124 from a dealer in Ohio, seemed to be a good price supposedly 10% over GM price! I pulled out the VOM and tested the new unit for curiosity. I realized....the arm on the new one returned to the start position once rotated with a good return spring. My old one did not return back very fast and the new sensor gave me a resistance reading on both ends to middle pin as pointed out in previous e-mail. All is connected and seems to be OK. I cleared the existing code. I will see tomorrow when I drive it more. The old sensor would have pumped up the rear end with just starting the car.

I will start a new thread on another issue I noticed when I had the wheel off. I found damaged/broke wires, I believe the brake pad sensor wire broke (abuse) on both rear wheels. I do not do my brakes….looks like I should.

Thanks much for the great info and cost savings

John

I removed the wheel and removed the potentiometer, could see better and took pictures. Using my VOM across end leads of the device I had no reading. The one end pin and middle pin I got a resistance reading but not smooth. The first 1/4 travel of the arm had a very quick and rapid raise than the remaining had a slow and steady raise. The other end pin and middle gives no meter reading.....

That would be a 95% certain failed position sensor.

I'll need some time to noodle out the lack of voltage at the chassis connector.

Thanks for the help. The voltage must be getting to the the sensor because the rear end would get a errored signal to pump up the shocks. Are the left and right sensors totaly independant? The rear was pumped up to the max equally on both sides. The left was not high and right low.

I will replace the unit and see what happens.

Thank you very much, this will cost me only the price of the unit. Will let you know how it goes.

John

You might be able to find a sensor at a salvage yard. Be sure to get one from the same side of the car.

The right and left sensors are independent and and their primary function is an input to the CVRSS system for shock stiffness control. It is convenient to also use the LR sensor as an input for the automatic level control compressor.

The air bags in the shocks are plumbed in parallel; they both see the same pressure.

Be sure to let us know how you make out with a replacement sensor.

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