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  3. Sorry this happened to your car. you might have to put your boxing mitts on to fight with the insurance company, but believe me when I tell you that paint technology, and color matching and blending has come a long way. Your initial check from the insurance will be a lowball figure. bringing it to the right restoration/ custom paint shop will help. The shop will dictate how to properly repair the vehicle. Google around to see a local shop that specializes in custom paint, and see how they can help. GOOD LUCK
  4. IIRC they are clipped on from behind. GM used a few different setups, some have pins that the plastic clips lock into. I will have to look into it
  5. Last week
  6. Does anyone know how the body side moldings are put on? Just double sided tape, or are there screws and/or rivets?
  7. Engine oil leaks? That bothers me because sitting unused should not cause things to open up. Where is the oil coming from? Wheel height sensors can always be added later because it's all totally separate and the mounting is easily accessible. It's the kind of thing you would use in road tuning and trial laps, and you don't need it in the way when you're doing design and construction. I got the idea when you mentioned wheel travel limits and measuring wheel height with the strut bellows/boot off, then having to put the bellows/boot back on for the road.
  8. Yeah I'm still steaming. The door works fine. Was hoping to find one in the bone yard the same color. There's a 94 in Sarasota, Fla the guy's selling the whole car for $400 it's the Pearl/Diamond white color, but I don't think it's as light as the 96. That one looks darker. She has insurance and I'm taking the car to get checked out tomorrow. They're probably gonna try and total the car. I can get a door for $70 at the bone yard. I'm not in a big hurry so maybe I'll get lucky and a 96 Diamond White DeVille will show up. If I can find one the same color I can at least get away without painting the inside.
  9. ....or maybe the site of the old GM library in Mexico City?
  10. A very good point, Jim. Very good. The readout would have car show value as well. It may even be possible to incorporate accelerometer data to get lateral acceleration values along with using the ride height sensors to gauge the car's tilt and determine what amount of outboard tilt provides the right balance between loading the outboard front tire for traction in a turn vs. level ride for stability and suspension geometry. Front suspension roll, rear suspension roll and the combination of both could be tuned for the best overall result or for the slow sharp turns of solo 2 races where reaching speeds above 50 MPH is rare as opposed to the faster sweeping turns of pro solo where 80 MPH or more might be experienced. I could even replace the manually adjustable supports on the rear wing for actuators and have a variable rear end down force capability. Come to think of it, I would like to explore these possibilities as a phase 2 upgrade. For now, I will focus on finishing up this phase 1 build and then work on some engine and paint and body issues. As it is, due to time and money limitations, this car has not been driven regularly in a year and a half, and now leaks oil too badly to be driven again without attention to the engine. It has been up on jackstands for 3 months for this front end build, and my suspension build in current form started about 4 years ago. I need to finish baking the cake then work on the icing. BTW: I was playfully using the "geek out" term.
  11. My thinking is that if you do geek out the car just a bit, like you do when you use auto tuning software, having a record of ride height for each wheel could be very valuable in selecting shock damping, evaluating tires, etc. Very little software can tell when all the tires aren't in the same plane and thus flag wheel hop, for example, and whenever any wheel hits its limit of travel you need to know that the suspension dynamics have gone back to the stone age for that wheel. I can think of ways that a real-time display from that data could be more valuable in an autocross race than any other dashboard readout.
  12. Oh, yeah. I remember seeing those on the ETC models. My lowe A-Arms have unused tabs for them and I bet that all necessary bolt holes are in place too. It might not be such a pain to add on. Worth another look when I get the car farther along.
  13. The ride height sensors don't have anything to do with the shocks, electrically. They are little boxes that bolt to the chassis and have arms that stick out, then links from the ends of the arms to a suspension arm. All Cadillacs that have rear-end leveling have them on the rear. The ones that connect to the PZM have three-wire connectors (hot on start and run, ground, signal). But, I see your point, and also that you have moved on. Adding a bolt with a cam on it for quick adjustment of camber for road vs. track is a really great idea.
  14. When I start the engine, often there is problem getting out of parking on the autmatic gearbox. I sometimes have to wait up to 1 minut. I do not know if it ís to do with idle speed or electric or what it is depended on.
  15. Thank you. I figured. I found a nice video on youtube on how to repair these horns. I have done one so far, cant wait to do them all and see how well they work. It may be that there was only one left working that is intermittent. I should find out when i install one of them. 4 horns, thats incredible. Some had 6. Surely a thing of the past
  16. Aaw. It is no surprise what stupidity causes. I hope you get it fixed. It sucks when the quarter gets hit. Does the door open and close? If so you may have gotten really lucky. I worry all the time with my 2 caddys because it is alot of time, and work to keep them nice .(Especially in NY) And all it takes is one person to mess it up
  17. The Cadillac uses 16MM bolts to mount the struts to the spindle. And it uses slotted lower holes to make camber adjustments. The Grand Prix struts use 14MM bolts and do not have a slotted hole. I bought a 16MM drill bit to open the GP holes, but instead of slotting the lower hole, I chose to first try camber adjustment bolts on the upper hole. The camber adjustment bolts are 14MM with an egg-shaped cam for positioning the spindle. By marking the bolt head and spindle, I can dial in some camber for the track and return it to the original setting for the street.
  18. One thing I didn't mention before. The Thunderbird springs have about 0.10" wider inside diameter than the springs intended for the Cadillac upper mounts. To keep them tight and centered on the perch, I used their isolators in addition to the isolators supplied with the mounts. This made them a press fit and it also increases the vibration absorption. I used the springs' lower isolators in place of the Grand Prix strut lower isolators on the bottom and they fit well with the contour of the strut base. There is just a slight spring overhang on the inboard side of the perch, but the spring is fully supprted and the fit is good and safe.
  19. It is a good idea and it looks doable, but I'm really not interested in spending the time to build or troubleshoot the system for this car... I mean, sure as a scientific minded individual, the prospect of geeking out the car has crossed my mind many times. However, if the final cut of the springs result in fender lips that sit at (or just below) the top of the tire tread, we're good. The Grand Prix struts are also non-electronic. So if I was going to add the ride height sensors, it would be a "from scratch" build. Now if I was using air bags instead of springs, it would be cool to even program pre-set heights and control them from the driver seat. Rough road Smooth road High speed Smooth track Car show low
  20. You don't need the OBD II system if you read the sensors directly. The ride height sensors are, within the sensor, just a source of voltage proportional to sensor arm angle. It's possible that there are more electronics in the sensors, and they vary from year to year, but if you interface with the sensor directly, you can have data recording or even cockpit monitoring of wheel height on each wheel with signal directly from the wheel height sensors. You can install the ride height sensors of your choice or even make your own. If the sensors are a problem for racing, you can remove them after testing. This is a concept of a wheel height sensor. Complexity added in later models will include a gear reduction between the sensor lever and the voltage divider shaft, and, for a later model that uses full modules at the wheel height sensors, digital electronics to digitize the voltage output and put it on a Class 2 bus. You will like the early model, perhaps with the gear reduction (a little plastic planetary producing about 4:1 is about right). You will need to calibrate your guages from 0-5 volts to inches or cm of wheel height.
  21. My car is the ESC with non-electronic suspension. I went that route so that I could build it old school. I'll have to make measurements using a tape measure.
  22. New York, Cadillac V-Performance racing team Konica Minolta Cadillac can clinch the IMSA WeatherTech DPi championship this weekend at the Continental Tire Monterey Grand Prix at Mazda Raceway Laguna Seca. View the full article
  23. New York, Cadillac V-Performance racing team Konica Minolta Cadillac can clinch the IMSA WeatherTech DPi championship this weekend at the Continental Tire Monterey Grand Prix at Mazda Raceway Laguna Seca. View the full article
  24. Could you get the ride height data for each front wheel from the OBE II interface and use that to track wheel position?
  25. All of GM’s Ohio and Indiana manufacturing facilities – including those that build the Chevrolet Cruze and Silverado and GMC Sierra light-duty pickup trucks – will meet their electricity needs through 100 percent renewable energy. GM is buying a total of 200 megawatts of wind energy from Ohio and Illinois wind farms. Once the turbines come online by the end of 2018, renewable energy will power 20 percent of GM’s global electricity use. View the full article
  26. oh no! Sorry to hear. Hopefully they can match it, or I suppose repaint the whole Cadillac
  27. The A & D notes are at the RT front. The C note is at LT front. The F note is by the battery IIRC they were the "train sound" 4 note 120db system, or maybe I'm remembering the older vintage "eighties" version.
  28. Makes ya wanna get a rope!
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