navion Posted January 17, 2006 Report Share Posted January 17, 2006 cdictas: I will post codes soon, I have to get out to my car-if tomorrow isnt a busy day I'll do it then! navion: It is possible that its the hoses at the heater core...as anyone who has replaced a heater core knows, those nipples are not exactally 'easy access'. I may not have tightened one enough and it may have slipped off a little or may not be tightend enough. I say this because my heat is very inconsistent. One question, would no freon in the AC system cause the heater system to malfunction? Or when I did the heater core, I had to disconnect the programmer and programmer arm...I don't know if it got installed exactally the same as it came out...This comes to mind because there is a little threaded metal rod with a snap connector that is threaded onto that rod's inch of threads on the end. The snap part connects to an arm on the programer...If I threaded it on too far or not far enough, the unit may read out of range or incorrectly, right? If you have any idea what I'm talking about, please chime in... Think thats it for now. Love you guys....not like that... -Jon Let me chime in. LOL Set the climate control to one of two extremal settings (60 or 90 deg.) Get access to the programmer by removing the glove box. You will see a door, which closes or opens comletely depending on the temp. settings. You can say, close the door and snap the arm (or open the door comletely and snap the arm on). Precisely, Britt Britt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBellELDO Posted February 4, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2006 almost 1000 miles on the car since the work and no real problems. Leaks a bit of oil-i was told the half seal is bad. I'm going to add about 2 quarts of lucas oil stabilizer - ive used it on other cars and loved it, if anyone has any reasons against the stuff, please let me know. Coolant is still draining a bit out of the overflow tube. I only notice it when the car is parked for a while - i went to eat at a resturaunt and when i came out there was a good size puddle under the car. It isnt losing a lot because the low coolant level message hasnt appeared and the temp stays around 200 when on the highway/interstate. In town its hovers around 208 and peaks around 216 when idling for a while. IS THIS NORMAL? I purchased another coolant tester and the needle is only half way to the top when submersed in the coolant. so it is not a perfect 50/50. Could this cause boiling that would lead to overflow from the coolant resivor? Correct me if im wrong, but after the engine is shut off, it actually heats up due to the fact that the coolant is no longer circulating to pull the heat off the motor. If this is so, could the coolant be heating up enough to cause it to boil(becase of the incorrect mixed coolant) and thus overflow? Otherwise, I'm alright i guess... Oh, one of the cross member bolts, the outter passenger side toward the rear of the car bolt had been cut off because I couldnt get it to come out and rounded the head off. That part of the cross member is hanging about a half inch from the frame of the car. How bad is this? I am planning on jacking the car up by that area of the cross member and wrapping mad amounts wire around the cross memer and the frame of the car in attempt to keep that snug so as not to apply pressure the other bolts, I know they are hardened but I need to do something to remedy this ASAP. Any ideas would be amazing. Loving the help, JonnyB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted February 4, 2006 Report Share Posted February 4, 2006 Your tempuratures sound normal. Yes, a less than 50/50 mix will lower the boiling temp a bit. You are also correct in that once the car is shut off the temp will rise due to lack of coolant circulation aka "After boil". If the tank is overfilled, it will push out the excess during after boil, but that should stabilize after the excess is overflowed and should not happen with regularity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted February 4, 2006 Report Share Posted February 4, 2006 If you are getting coolant out of the overflow, and the car is not overheating I would change the pressure cap asap and follow what ranger said regarding coolant concentration. If you cap is releasing pressure at 10 PSI or you have a damaged seal, you are unable to built up pressure and as you know besides improper coolant concentration, .... pressure or a lower than ideal pressure to be exact will allow the coolant to boil at a lower temp. The cap should be able to hold at least 16 PSI if I am not mistaken. IF you can find a cooling system pressurizer, I would pump up the cooling system also to see if it holds pressure to ease my mind but do the cap first. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted February 4, 2006 Report Share Posted February 4, 2006 What I said above is a little confusing, any pressure less than ideal pressure of say 15 to 16 PSI, will allow the coolant to boil at a lower temp. If your cap is shunting pressure too low a pressure you will lose coolant and boil lower. See this article: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/cooling-system3.htm Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBellELDO Posted February 4, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2006 Excellent, I'm going to check those things this comming weekend when I'm home. Thanks! Ok, the SES light is on again. It's that darn transmission pressure sensor... HAS ANYONE HAD A PROBLEM WITH THIS BEFORE? I need to know if it is a serious problem - its causing the tranny to shift hard and with that bold on the crossmember out of comission I think it'd be safe to say thats a bad thing. Is there a simple fix or will I have to pull the motor out and replace it as per Cadillac's instructions? -JonnyB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdictas Posted February 5, 2006 Report Share Posted February 5, 2006 Jon, Could you please tell us what codes are Present? By any chance was there a P0717 code? Needless to say you need to replace the broken bolt in the cross member. Chuck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pos2nat Posted February 5, 2006 Report Share Posted February 5, 2006 Excellent, I'm going to check those things this comming weekend when I'm home. Thanks! Ok, the SES light is on again. It's that darn transmission pressure sensor... HAS ANYONE HAD A PROBLEM WITH THIS BEFORE? I need to know if it is a serious problem - its causing the tranny to shift hard and with that bold on the crossmember out of comission I think it'd be safe to say thats a bad thing. Is there a simple fix or will I have to pull the motor out and replace it as per Cadillac's instructions? -JonnyB Is it a P89 code? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBellELDO Posted February 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2006 Excellent, I'm going to check those things this comming weekend when I'm home. Thanks! Ok, the SES light is on again. It's that darn transmission pressure sensor... HAS ANYONE HAD A PROBLEM WITH THIS BEFORE? I need to know if it is a serious problem - its causing the tranny to shift hard and with that bold on the crossmember out of comission I think it'd be safe to say thats a bad thing. Is there a simple fix or will I have to pull the motor out and replace it as per Cadillac's instructions? -JonnyB Is it a P89 code? I'll pull the codes tomorrow or this weekend, depends on when I have time. Guys, I think I'm going to sell her. I know I put a lot of money and time into her but in the end, I'm just not happy with it; there always something wrong with her(ie. shifts hard, traction control/ABS doesn't work, heat is faulty - which is my fault, suspension is noisy and knocks alot, bolt is missing on the crossmember). I just feel like if I don't sell it soon, shes gonna go to crap on me and be worth nothing. I could use some pointers, advice...etc. Thanks again. -Jon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBellELDO Posted February 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2006 Also, I could use some advice as far as what to do about the bolt for the crossmember, I can't just put another bolt in cuz the old one is stuck in there and WILL NOT come out...its headless and nothing will grab it well enough to unscrew it. Wow, that was a lengthy sentence. -Jon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ebby Posted February 9, 2006 Report Share Posted February 9, 2006 Jon Can you get a drill up under there and drill out the old bolt and try and tap it again? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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