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winterset

Front caliper rubber

5 posts in this topic

I had a really bad shimmy when I applied the brakes.  I inspected the slide pins, and on the drivers side, one glide pin was having a tough time moving in the rubber.  The top was fine, but the bottom pin/sleeve is binding.  Does anyone know if I can replace the rubber, or if a shop can do it? Are there caliper rebuilders around?  Not sure how to proceed, but I know I don't want a remanufactured caliper, or an after market. 

 

Thanks!!

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It's called a caliper hardware kit. You can get one at your favorite auto parts store.

 

h5621q.jpg

This will NOT solve the brake pulsation issue though. You need to have the brake rotors machined to correct the pulsation. You can do the work - easy stuff :)

You will remove the rotors and take them to someone to machine....

Edited by OldCadTech

THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!!

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I don't think the boots are what he is talking about...

Sounds like the guide pin is sticking. Silicone grease and stroking the pin should loosen it up. 

You can turn the rotors....but chances what you are really feeling is embedded material on the brake rotor surface.  Sanding the rotors can eliminate most of that.  

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Thanks oldcaltech

 

yep, I think I might have finally solved my mild to really bad brake vibration I had with this car for some time.  

Based on the picture, I found that the rubber sleeves are easy to remove, and do not need any special machine.  I took it out, and found rust inside where the rubber sits snug in the caliper.  That little bit of rust was causing the rubber to bulge in there, thus making it hard for the pin to glide smoothly.  I used my dremmel to lightly grind and sand out the rust. Now the pin glides nice and smooth.

I scored a new set of brembo rotors on eBay for $89 shipped to my home.  I agree that the old  rotors probably needed a cut, but new was easier for me.

i just greased the pins, and verified it's good.  I will finish putting it together tomorrow, then do the other side then also.

 

ive been doing brakes for many years, and I am very particular, and this is the first time I heard let alone experienced this.  Also, I find it odd that on this car, when the two bolts holding the caliper on are removed, the rotor comes right off too.  I always had a separate bracket there that would prevent the rotor from being removed.  So there is no additional labor installing a new rotor on this car because the rotor comes off with the same labor to change the pads.

So a tip to you all is that if you have a pulsation or vibration in the brakes, the rubber guide pin sleeve/bushings can be getting crushed by rust.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Clarification:

The two bolts for the caliper support bracket are classified as ONE time use only.

That said, I have reused them on my OWN vehicles, NEVER on a customer vehicle, I applied blue lock-tite at reassembly.

On the grease added to the pins - grease is NOT recommended. Silicone grease would be the only possibility, then a VERY VERY light coat only on the pins where they pass through the rubber only. Grease collects brake dust.... Hi-Temp grease, such as wheel bearing grease, WILL melt at high brake temps, Silicone grease has an even higher melt point.

 

rnb-14006_xl.jpg

Edited by OldCadTech

THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!!

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