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brownLaso

Cadillac Deville Stalling 1999

8 posts in this topic

Hello everyone, i need help with my 1999 Cadillac Deville. I've owned it for one year now. Currently has 96,195 miles & had 94,300 when i purchased it. I have only done one oil change and regularly drive 4 miles to work, four back. Two weeks ago it began stalling because it was low on oil (about 1 qt) The check engine light came on first and then the oil light after stalling a few times. I topped it off to the correct level and the stalling seemed to stop. The oil light went away but the check engine light stayed on. The car normally idles at 625/650 rpm and is spiking down to 500 and sometimes randomly drops to 0 were it stalls... It runs around 200/215 F*. After reading a similar post could the wires plugs possibly have something to do with it? NorthstarAJ mention it in a different post, "Bad plug wires cause 4X codes and stalling" 2nd page. I attached a picture of the only funky wire that i could find and one of my plug wires. Also, before all of this happened the car seem to jerk in between the speeds of 30mph to 40 but it never stalled or had any check engine light come on. I pulled the codes and got (1350 ECM engine component module/ Ignition Control System?), (1375 - crankshaft sensor),  (1377 - IC Cam Pulse To 4X Reference Pulse) and (0404p -  EGR exhaust gas recirculation Open Position Performance). Thank you for any help, information i can get. 

close up view.JPG

wide view.JPG

plug wires.JPG

Edited by brownLaso
problems uploading pictures, had a link to host the pictures but i think i fixed it.

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:welcomesmiley:

The frayed wire is the starter cable, you should tape it with electrical tape and put it back in the conduit, or replace it.

The P0404 is most likely the stall. If the EGR valve is open or partially open when it is trying to idle it will run extremely rough and/or stall. But the ignition module and crank sensors can cause the symptoms also. Diagnosis should always start at the lowest numbered code.

The spark plug wires look original and are due for replacement on mileage alone, if original, the spark plugs are also due for replacement. I would clear all the codes, replace the spark plug wires and spark plugs and see what codes return.

Edited by OldCadTech

THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!!

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The oil level is not causing your stall issue. The oil light is coming on because the engine has stalled.

Unrelated, but has the coolant been changed? If not I would do it ASAP.

I would think your stalling may be a sticking EGR. That would be your shutter between 30-49 mph also.

Not bad to clean out. ! of the 2 bolts is held down by the fuel rail. I usually pull the rail, replace all of the o-rings at the base of the injectors, dab of oil around them.

Replace the egr valve gasket, clean out the valve (do not turn it upside down with cleaner in it.) Make sure the torx part spins freely and the valve pushes in and comes back out on its own.

Check the egr passages closely. they may be plugged.

8 miles a day is not good for one of these as it is not ever really getting a chance to get fully heated up.

those coolant temps seem a little high also. Again why I mentioned replacing it. My Northstars run around 196 all the time even on 80* days. No more than 205 ish idling in traffic on a hotter day

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GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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On 9/14/2017 at 9:31 AM, OldCadTech said:

:welcomesmiley:

The frayed wire is the starter cable, you should tape it with electrical tape and put it back in the conduit, or replace it.

The P0404 is most likely the stall. If the EGR valve is open or partially open when it is trying to idle it will run extremely rough and/or stall. But the ignition module and crank sensors can cause the symptoms also. Diagnosis should always start at the lowest numbered code.

The spark plug wires look original and are due for replacement on mileage alone, if original, the spark plugs are also due for replacement. I would clear all the codes, replace the spark plug wires and spark plugs and see what codes return.

Appreciate you identifying the frayed starter cable. Electrical tape will do.. I cleared the service engine soon light after I got the codes and drove for another few days. It almost stalled twice but i held the break down gave it a little bit of gas to keep it alive. I stopped driving the car since then. No lights came on during that time. This is what I'm ordering

  • EGR                             ACDELCO 2145058  GM Original Equipment 
  • Spark plug wires        ACDELCO 748Q  GM Original Equipment    
  • Spark plugs                ACDELCO 41950 Professional; Double Platinum Gap .050; Original Equipment 

& crankshaft sensor, ICM if it doesn't fix the problem 

  • Crankshaft sensor     ACDELCO 213345 GM Original Equipment 
On 9/14/2017 at 5:47 PM, rockfangd said:

The oil level is not causing your stall issue. The oil light is coming on because the engine has stalled.

Unrelated, but has the coolant been changed? If not I would do it ASAP.

I would think your stalling may be a sticking EGR. That would be your shutter between 30-49 mph also.

Not bad to clean out. ! of the 2 bolts is held down by the fuel rail. I usually pull the rail, replace all of the o-rings at the base of the injectors, dab of oil around them.

Replace the egr valve gasket, clean out the valve (do not turn it upside down with cleaner in it.) Make sure the torx part spins freely and the valve pushes in and comes back out on its own.

Check the egr passages closely. they may be plugged.

8 miles a day is not good for one of these as it is not ever really getting a chance to get fully heated up.

those coolant temps seem a little high also. Again why I mentioned replacing it. My Northstars run around 196 all the time even on 80* days. No more than 205 ish idling in traffic on a hotter day

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I have not changed the coolant, only topped off. Hopefully why my car runs hotter than it should. Thank you for bring that up. I'll be replacing the coolant, EGR, plug wires + spark plugs first and go from there. 

 

Edited by brownLaso

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On another note, the fuel gage is not accurate. The digital cluster fluctuates. It never bother me as i keep track of the mileage with the trip meter. I get around 13.5 MPG and 230 with a full tank. I believe it holds 17 1/2 gallons. Sending unit?? Attached an older picture for illustration.

 

 

IMG_1258.JPG

Edited by brownLaso

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The sending units are a little infamous and very expensive so most people track mileage also. The unit/module is easy to replace if your 99 has the access in the trunk, otherwise the tank has to come down, then they're not so easy.

Sometimes, the baffle in the tank breaks loose and interferes with the float operation. If the baffle is loose, the fuel tank will need to be replaced. With the fuel module out of the tank grab the plastic baffle and if you can move it, the tank will need replacing.

You can "test" to determine if the baffle is loose by hitting the bottom of the fuel tank in several different places with the heel of your hand. If you hear a rattle type noise the baffle is probably loose. Do this at about the 200 mile mark from a full tank otherwise there will be too much fuel in the tank. This test is only about 80% accurate so don't buy the tank until you verify it physically first. 


THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!!

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The fuel gauge issue is caused by the feelers on the sending unit breaking off or wearing out.

Replace the fuel pump module and that should resolve the issue. 

No access in the trunk on the 99. Sadly. But not a bad job to do if the tank is near empty. 

Not a bad idea to replace the pump unit anyway as that generation was common to burning up the pump plug on top of the sender. I have done many of them


GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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thank you fellas. i currently have all the parts shipped and now saving up to  pay for the labor. i honestly think i can do it myself but i have no prior mechanic experience. ill update along the way.

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