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Welcome to Caddyinfo.

that is a weird one for sure.

What are the symptoms that caused you to check the codes?

Have you tried resetting the battery by disconnecting the terminals and leaving them off for a minute or so and see if it reoccurs

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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P-1627 is an analog to digital converter malfunction. It should have illuminated the SES lamp.

The A/D converter takes the analog input readings and converts them to a digital signal that the PCM can understand.

A faulty PCM, faulty or shorted wiring to the PCM, or a PCM connector not properly seated can cause the code. Have you had the PCM disconnected for any reason?

The PCM is in the cold air intake near the air filter, the harness can get pinched and the wiring can be easily damaged.

THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!!

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rockfangd, the reason I was checking codes is a noisy blower motor sound coming from driver side dash when I put the fan on high! An I'm nervous about disconnecting the battery cause I've red it can through some things outta wack.

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OldCadTech, great response! I did remove the intake filter box to get to the radiator drain plug but I don't think I disturbed anything. Also if I had a bad PCM wouldn't it light up some kind of message? The only reason I found that code was because I was checking DIC for blower motor noise. The car has been running n driving fine! Very low mileage, 43,460

 

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9 hours ago, OldCadTech said:

P-1627 is an analog to digital converter malfunction. It should have illuminated the SES lamp.

The A/D converter takes the analog input readings and converts them to a digital signal that the PCM can understand.

A faulty PCM, faulty or shorted wiring to the PCM, or a PCM connector not properly seated can cause the code. Have you had the PCM disconnected for any reason?

The PCM is in the cold air intake near the air filter, the harness can get pinched and the wiring can be easily damaged.

 

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Hey I'm not sure if I responded back to you! It looked like I just answered my own post myself. I'm still new to all this forum stuff Sorry!! Did you see my respons?

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11 hours ago, rockfangd said:

Welcome to Caddyinfo.

that is a weird one for sure.

What are the symptoms that caused you to check the codes?

Have you tried resetting the battery by disconnecting the terminals and leaving them off for a minute or so and see if it reoccurs

 

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@Rocco Mattero

It was showing current at the time you ran the code check. Drivability may or may not show up depending upon what analog signal is causing the code. It is strange that the SES light did not illuminate.

It is a PCM (powertrain control module) code but there are a lot of analog signals. Access the PCM again and make SURE all three cable connections are tight at the PCM. Check the wiring bundle and make sure there is no damage to the wiring.

If you don't find the "smoking gun" remove both battery cables from the battery and touch the cable ends together (away from the battery) this will reset all the modules. Reconnect the battery and check the codes again with the engine running.

THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!!

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1 hour ago, OldCadTech said:

@Rocco Mattero

It was showing current at the time you ran the code check. Drivability may or may not show up depending upon what analog signal is causing the code. It is strange that the SES light did not illuminate.

It is a PCM (powertrain control module) code but there are a lot of analog signals. Access the PCM again and make SURE all three cable connections are tight at the PCM. Check the wiring bundle and make sure there is no damage to the wiring.

If you don't find the "smoking gun" remove both battery cables from the battery and touch the cable ends together (away from the battery) this will reset all the modules. Reconnect the battery and check the codes again with the engine running.

Hey I'm not sure if I responded back to you! It looked like I just answered my own post myself. I'm still new to all this forum stuff Sorry!! Did you see my respons?

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1 hour ago, OldCadTech said:

@Rocco Mattero

It was showing current at the time you ran the code check. Drivability may or may not show up depending upon what analog signal is causing the code. It is strange that the SES light did not illuminate.

It is a PCM (powertrain control module) code but there are a lot of analog signals. Access the PCM again and make SURE all three cable connections are tight at the PCM. Check the wiring bundle and make sure there is no damage to the wiring.

If you don't find the "smoking gun" remove both battery cables from the battery and touch the cable ends together (away from the battery) this will reset all the modules. Reconnect the battery and check the codes again with the engine running

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Not sure why I'm having so much trouble with these posts!! I'm confused as to if I'm answering people back or not, I feel like I'm making it harder then it is. I'm really not an idiot! Promise, Ha Ha!  

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Hope I'm answering you back OldCarTech, Sounds Good, I'm gonna check the PCM connects again a little later! But about disconnecting both battery terminals, I've read that can cause some other issues besides the minor radio having to be reprogrammed. Any truth to the computer having to relearn certain stuff?

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You're answering them okay...

Disconnecting the battery is NOT hazardous and in itself does not CAUSE other problems. At the worse, you may have to do an idle relearn, no big deal ...

If you're nervous about resetting the modules, clear all the codes and see if it comes back BUT still check the PCM again first though...

THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!!

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Ok good! Yeah I'm gonna check the PCM connection again first an if I can't come across anything I'll try disconnecting the battery! Then see what happens. Thanks. Hey also while I have someone that knows these Caddys, any ideas on both my cig lighters blowing out as soon as I try one. I've replaced fuses twice but can't seem to find the problem! I've checked to make sure there were no coins fallin in them that would cause a short. Its not that big of a deal but I would like to be able to charge my phone with either of them. Just thought I would ask.

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Usually it is the back ones that have the coins in them. Did you check all the sockets including the one in the rear of the console? OR does the fuse blow as soon as you replace it?

If there are NO coins, and the fuse doesn't blow as soon as you replace it, try plugging in another / different device. I had one charger that stated it had to be inserted with the circuit active. It worked fine in the GMC because the socket was "HOT" all the time but when I put it in the Van it blew the fuse as soon as I turned on the ignition. I couldn't see the small print on the charger plug until I got the magnifying glass. :blink:

 

THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!!

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Yes I did check both front and back sockets, nothing in neither one. An the fuse doesn't blow as soon as I put it in the fuse box. But as soon as I push the lighter in, either front or back one then the fuse goes! They've been that way since I've had the car. I finally just gave up on trying to use them. But it would be nice to figure it out, I would love to be able to at least charge my phone when I'm out driving.

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Try the phone charger without the phone connected and see if that by itself will blow the fuse. If it does then you have a shorted wire or defective socket. If it doesn't blow the fuse, plug the cell phone in and see if it works.

THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!!

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Don't worry about the cell phone, there is a fuse in the charger to protect the phone. Oddly enough when I had the trouble with the cell phone charger it always blew the 20 amp lighter fuse and never popped the 1.5 amp charger fuse. It always takes the path of least resistance :unsure:

THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!!

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Actually have tried just the charger with the hood up an checked the fuse, it was OK. Then I'd go an plug the phone in and it wouldn't register a charge! So went back under the hood n the fuse would be blown. I'm gonna have to remove the ashtray door an try to pull out all the ashtray and lighter socket to see if I can trace it down if I wanna use it bad enough I guess. Hey thanks for all the response, I will definatley be talking with ya more. 

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The one at the rear of the console is the easiest to check and the one that fails the most for some reason...

THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!!

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Clear that code and see if it comes back.

If it does not I would disregard it.

Unhooking the battery will do nothing more than reset the clock and monitors.

as for the cigar lighters  I wonder if one of them is bad and is drawing all the time but not enough to blow the fuse, then anything you plug in goes over and pops the fuse

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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14 hours ago, rockfangd said:

Clear that code and see if it comes back.

If it does not I would disregard it.

Unhooking the battery will do nothing more than reset the clock and monitors.

as for the cigar lighters  I wonder if one of them is bad and is drawing all the time but not enough to blow the fuse, then anything you plug in goes over and pops the fuse

Could be! Gonna clear the codes to see what happens, if it comes back i will have to try the battery disconnect! Just got the car back,my daughter had to borrow it over night. So now I'm gonna first try a lighter from a different car an if it still blows the fuse I'm gonna take the front ashtray n lighter assembly out to try an trace wires to see if maybe there's a short somewhere. If I can't find it then I'm gonna take the back lighter  apart also, will see!!

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