Jan Olsson

Finally time for another car

24 posts in this topic

Hi all!

I just sold my troublesome 2005 Jaguar Super V8!!! Finally I can look for another Cadillac to the family. My 2002 STS is still running strong with +186 k miles on it and I still use it as my daily driver (80 miles a day)  but my plan is to give it to my wife (with lifetime service and car washes included) and let it age gracefully. The "new" one on the other side. Hmm, I'm in the market for either an STS-V or a CTS-V. This comes at a great moment in my life! I'm going to quit my job and start at another firm with a salary increase so even if I drive a CTS-V as a daily driver I'll still have more money over at the end of the month compared to when I had to pay four figure bills just to get the darn Jaguar running again. I'm honestly afraid that the new owner will return here any moment now, angry as hell, because something has broken down again. I have never ever had a more unreliable an expensive car. I calculated that I could have driven four STSs for the same cost as the Jag....

The new owner is of the right kind. He´ll only drive on special occasions and when the sun shines :shaka:

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Hi Jan!  Wow, CTS-V, good for you!

How can we help?  Can it be bought here and shipped or does the VAT make that prohibitive?

Mike


Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >> http://z-cut.de/US/dtcobd1.html

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> http://carprogrammer.com/Z28/PCM/OBD2/On-BoardDiagnosticTroubleCodes(OBD-II).mht

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Thanks for the offer but swedish banks mostly requires that the car is sold by an authorized swedish car dealer if you want to have a car loan. Well I'm in contact right now with a dealer that can import cars from both EU and US. Personally I would like to have a european model in order to have navi, lights and gauges in the "right" units 😉. Easier to insure too. But thanks anyway! 

I have only read good things about the CTS-V. Have you or anyone else here heard something potentially dangerous to my wallet except from gas-bills and new tires every now and then? 

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2 hours ago, Jan Olsson said:

Thanks for the offer but swedish banks mostly requires that the car is sold by an authorized swedish car dealer if you want to have a car loan. Well I'm in contact right now with a dealer that can import cars from both EU and US. Personally I would like to have a european model in order to have navi, lights and gauges in the "right" units 😉. Easier to insure too. But thanks anyway! 

I have only read good things about the CTS-V. Have you or anyone else here heard something potentially dangerous to my wallet except from gas-bills and new tires every now and then? 

@Cadillac Jim has one, he should get my page here and pop in and answer any questions you have.  Good luck

In 2010, Bruce and I attended Bob Lutz's CTS-V Challenge up at Monticello.  We rode in 2010 CTS-Vs and they were awesome. (I think they were 2010s)

Here is a link, there are others, on youtube search, CTS-V Challenge Monticello 

 

 


Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >> http://z-cut.de/US/dtcobd1.html

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> http://carprogrammer.com/Z28/PCM/OBD2/On-BoardDiagnosticTroubleCodes(OBD-II).mht

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I got my 2011 CTS-V sedan (Recaros, sunroof, automatic) at about 22,000 miles in the spring of 2013.  It has about 65,000 miles on it now.  You are asking about zingers?  I'll presume to make generalizations based on my experience as one who uses a CTS-V as a daily driver and drives it legally.

  • Overall, it's the most reliable car that I have ever owned.  Unscheduled maintenance just doesn't happen.
  • Don't let *anyone* drive the car.  Valets are OK in indoor garages, but don't let a valet drive it outdoors.  Even service people at dealers may feel the need to "drive the car briskly* in "testing."
  • Get a dashcam and leave it on when you leave it for service.  Check it afterwards, and if it has been turned off, or you don't like what you see, don't go back there with your V.
  • Some dealers look at V owners as mod-crazy guys who treat their cars as money pits, and will add service items accordingly.  Make it understood that you must personally approve each service item.  I had an unnecessary brake job thrown at me that way, about $2K.
  • Tires are not a problem in terms of dollars per mile if you get good tires.  Cheap tires wear quickly and most of them are just good enough so that you don't take them off for better ones.  That's where the money in tire prices goes, in better tire wear, as well as better performance, better holding in the wet and cold/snow, etc.
  • You will likely hear from non-owners about how expensive the electronic shocks/struts are.  They are about 1/3 as much as those on my 1997 Eldorado Touring Coupe.  Mine are fine at 65,000 miles.  I have not scheduled a service for them, and don't worry about it at all.
  • Don't beat on the car and the tires, transmission, differential, etc. will hold up fine.  The car is built like a tank but you can beat it up if you try because it has, like, 600 hp at the crankshaft.  With that, you can break a Humvee in ten minutes if you try.
  • Non-dealer mechanics that are good for your V and can be trusted with it are out there in droves.  I live in a far suburb of Philly and know of three in a 5-mile radius, four if you count a guy that will just buy parts from NAPA without checking with you (cheap parts!).
  • Most dealers have never serviced a V.  Use Yelp or V forums to pick a dealer for service.  Yelp ratings for the CTS, XTS, etc. are no good for predicting satisfaction with a V, look for people who have had their V's serviced there for ratings.
  • The battery is an AGM deep-discharge unit in the rear that lasts forever.  Mine is original.  It's not a V thing; the battery is the same as other 2011 CTS's.  The CCA for the V may be more but it's only 700.  The starter has a reduction gear so that's just fine.
  • Mods don't make much sense for the street, but if you do, start with higher capacity injectors and with cooling and intercooler enhancements, even before a chip tune, because any increase in horsepower will require bigger injectors to work and will generate more heat and air flow through the intercooler.  Intercooler mods alone will get you a noticeable improvement.  The next step is to take the boost limit off the chip so that it gives 15 psi boost at sea level; if you don't already have the injectors and radiator for that you can harm your engine.  I recommend zero mods unless you are going to be measuring times at a drag strip; I consider cars that do that project cars, not daily drivers.
  • Cops don't bother you.  Haters, on the other hand, will tailgate, etc.  Local police have advised me to pull over while still moving to let haters pass but do engage or let on you notice them, and do not stop except in a safe place.  I'm crabby so I keep local police on speed dial on the car phone - but I've never used it.  The worst haters are psychotic yuppie women, next are older men in huge pickups with something to prove.
rockfangd and BodybyFisher like this

CTS-V_Dashboard.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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On ‎2017‎-‎05‎-‎11 at 3:06 AM, Cadillac Jim said:

I got my 2011 CTS-V sedan (Recaros, sunroof, automatic) at about 22,000 miles in the spring of 2013.  It has about 65,000 miles on it now.  You are asking about zingers?  I'll presume to make generalizations based on my experience as one who uses a CTS-V as a daily driver and drives it legally.

  • Overall, it's the most reliable car that I have ever owned.  Unscheduled maintenance just doesn't happen.
  • Don't let *anyone* drive the car.  Valets are OK in indoor garages, but don't let a valet drive it outdoors.  Even service people at dealers may feel the need to "drive the car briskly* in "testing."
  • Get a dashcam and leave it on when you leave it for service.  Check it afterwards, and if it has been turned off, or you don't like what you see, don't go back there with your V.
  • Some dealers look at V owners as mod-crazy guys who treat their cars as money pits, and will add service items accordingly.  Make it understood that you must personally approve each service item.  I had an unnecessary brake job thrown at me that way, about $2K.
  • Tires are not a problem in terms of dollars per mile if you get good tires.  Cheap tires wear quickly and most of them are just good enough so that you don't take them off for better ones.  That's where the money in tire prices goes, in better tire wear, as well as better performance, better holding in the wet and cold/snow, etc.
  • You will likely hear from non-owners about how expensive the electronic shocks/struts are.  They are about 1/3 as much as those on my 1997 Eldorado Touring Coupe.  Mine are fine at 65,000 miles.  I have not scheduled a service for them, and don't worry about it at all.
  • Don't beat on the car and the tires, transmission, differential, etc. will hold up fine.  The car is built like a tank but you can beat it up if you try because it has, like, 600 hp at the crankshaft.  With that, you can break a Humvee in ten minutes if you try.
  • Non-dealer mechanics that are good for your V and can be trusted with it are out there in droves.  I live in a far suburb of Philly and know of three in a 5-mile radius, four if you count a guy that will just buy parts from NAPA without checking with you (cheap parts!).
  • Most dealers have never serviced a V.  Use Yelp or V forums to pick a dealer for service.  Yelp ratings for the CTS, XTS, etc. are no good for predicting satisfaction with a V, look for people who have had their V's serviced there for ratings.
  • The battery is an AGM deep-discharge unit in the rear that lasts forever.  Mine is original.  It's not a V thing; the battery is the same as other 2011 CTS's.  The CCA for the V may be more but it's only 700.  The starter has a reduction gear so that's just fine.
  • Mods don't make much sense for the street, but if you do, start with higher capacity injectors and with cooling and intercooler enhancements, even before a chip tune, because any increase in horsepower will require bigger injectors to work and will generate more heat and air flow through the intercooler.  Intercooler mods alone will get you a noticeable improvement.  The next step is to take the boost limit off the chip so that it gives 15 psi boost at sea level; if you don't already have the injectors and radiator for that you can harm your engine.  I recommend zero mods unless you are going to be measuring times at a drag strip; I consider cars that do that project cars, not daily drivers.
  • Cops don't bother you.  Haters, on the other hand, will tailgate, etc.  Local police have advised me to pull over while still moving to let haters pass but do engage or let on you notice them, and do not stop except in a safe place.  I'm crabby so I keep local police on speed dial on the car phone - but I've never used it.  The worst haters are psychotic yuppie women, next are older men in huge pickups with something to prove.

This is all very helpful advice! I really didn't think there would be any real weak spots and internet searches, JDPower, Edmunds.com, Car and driver etc all praise the car and also reports a high dependability/reliability (or at least the CTS model, JDPower didn't have any data for the CTS-V that I could find).

Now I'm in contact with a company that import cars and they are telling me that they have their eyes on a 2011 CTS-V. I'm not really crazy about a silver colored car though. Black, red or gray would all be better choices for me, but I figure that it is a relatively rare car over here and that I would have to wait for months or perhaps years in order to get the "right" color. I might be lucky and get “the right one” in a month or I can end up waiting for years. In that perspective the silver color is not that bad ;)

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I wanted a black coupe, too, but you only get to specify everything when you are buying new.  Bruce and Texas Jim were helping a lot, with their better used-car radar than I could get online from the Philly area.  Also, it turns out, the better used CTS-V's nationwide were being transported to the DFW area for resale, and Bruce and Texas Jim are based in that area.  In fact, I was starting to close on one of two 2009 models when Bruce turned up this 2011 at a price that I barely could not afford, but bought anyway.

For a used car in a model that doesn't appear very often and doesn't offer much selection, you need to decide what is a deal-breaker and what is desirable.  To me the deal breakers were the Bose sound system, Recaro front seats, and the sunroof.  It turns out that these were all standard over the model years that I was looking at, although the Bose and sunroof could be deleted for credit they rarely were for street cars.  Deleting the Recaros for credit is possible on later models but isn't very common.  So for me it was a trade between price, miles, and model year, with typically two or three out there at any given time.  All the ones that were out there in the few weeks I was looking were sedans with automatic.

Be sure and use CarFAX or something similar.  Your own account is inexpensive relative to any given problem that this "radar" can help you avoid.  There was one black CTS-V that I liked but a CarFAX showed that it was a GM fleet car in Detroit for two years, i.e. deep salt belt and parked outside day an night, with competent but minimum cost maintenance, and I passed on that one.


CTS-V_Dashboard.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Now the car is in Sweden! I'm going to have a look on it next week and hopefully everything is in mint condition and works flawlessly. I have already warned the seller that I am picky and expect a car with less than 30k on the odometer to look and feel like a brand new car. It will be a 750 mile trip just to look at it and I would really hate to have to go home empty handed. If it is good then I’ll just have to wrestle with the bank and take the train the week after that and drive home with my next daily driver ;)

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I have really thought about a purchase like this. I have been through two periods of unemployment because of bad times. Companies have moved abroad and skilled engineers aren't that hard to find. But I have somehow managed to survive anyway. It is really hard to have to move 200 miles just to get a job, then move another 200 miles just to be unemployed and another 200 miles after that. I have lost connection with family and friends and had a hard time to get a job without connections. When I was younger a house was a must for me, but at the age of 43 I'm satisfied if I have a halv decent garage. 😄 Now the job situation looks more stable.

My point is that the CTS-V is expensive to me, but I figure that I rather have fun while saving for a house than to get a house a little earlier in life and in hard need of one or two good daily drivers. I have waited so long and me and my wife figures that a couple of years more doesn't really matter. I am also in need of a newer car soon anyway...

A CTS-V will cost more but if it is reasonable reliable then I'll have a good car for years to come! Some people for instance travels a lot and saves a lot of money the rest of the year to afford it. I prefer to live now and doesn't travel a lot. It will be fun to go to work too 😉

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The waiting is the hardest part, as Tom Petty sings. I have waited 21 days now for the car to show up at the dealership from when the dealer said "we might just have a car for you that’s for sale in Germany, but first we'll have to decide if we want to buy it". They finally bought it and now I have to wait for their pick up of the car in Germany. Apparently there is some trouble with the transporting trucks so I guess that the car should arrive in Sweden next week. I really hope that it is in mint condition and that everything is in order, and of course that the price is right.

I won't rush in to things but it would be really great to have another car right about now because my STS got a severe engine miss today when I was 500 yards from work. Only code is P0300 and I already knew it was missing...From what I gather it could just be a spark plug but it will take some time to diagnose. Misses only at load on low rpms and on idle. I also hear a sound just like a sticking valve. Of course the valve lifters aren’t new and it is probably time to change some of the lifters but this sounded more like a collapsed lifter. Then again I hope that it is the miss that makes that noise. Missing engines can develop all sorts of funny noises when they miss. My previous car, a -93 STS had just that sound before I changed the burned exhaust valves…Worst nightmare would be to have to pull the heads. Neither the time or space/parts for that now.

I definitely need another daily driver.

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probably a coil pack if it is the 2002.

I have changed enough of them. Seem to be pretty common.

1 unit does whole bank. 

front one is grey, rear one is black. Both are completely interchangeable 


GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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Most likely a bad coil cassette given the fact that it is missing at idle and at speed.  If it idled OK and only missed under load, that would point to spark plugs that were missing the platinum pad on the ground electrode.  The platinum pad comes loose and is blown out the exhaust, then the ground electrode wears like a normal plug until the gap is excessive.

 


Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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17 hours ago, rockfangd said:

probably a coil pack if it is the 2002.

I have changed enough of them. Seem to be pretty common.

1 unit does whole bank. 

front one is grey, rear one is black. Both are completely interchangeable 

I changed the rear coil pack ten years ago so it might just be time again. Well I have saved some old spark plugs that I know work and will test with them this weekend. The miss only shows when the engine is warm and that sounds like a bad coil to me too unfortunately.

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16 hours ago, KHE said:

Most likely a bad coil cassette given the fact that it is missing at idle and at speed.  If it idled OK and only missed under load, that would point to spark plugs that were missing the platinum pad on the ground electrode.  The platinum pad comes loose and is blown out the exhaust, then the ground electrode wears like a normal plug until the gap is excessive.

 

I also noticed that the miss seems to go away after I let it idle with the hood open (trying to figure out if it was at the front or the rear bank). I miss the cylinder balance test that you could run from the instrumentation that I could use on my previous -93 STS. Well I don't want to ruin this thread so I keep you guys posted on the progress after this weekend in another topic :)

 

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Don't forget the plug wires.  It could easily be that some moisture got under the beauty cover and caused a sudden ignition failure syndrome.


CTS-V_Dashboard.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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On ‎2017‎-‎06‎-‎02 at 7:09 AM, Cadillac Jim said:

Don't forget the plug wires.  It could easily be that some moisture got under the beauty cover and caused a sudden ignition failure syndrome.

No wires on a 2002 STS but thanks anyway!

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48 minutes ago, Jan Olsson said:

No wires on a 2002 STS but thanks anyway!

Oh.  Forgot, sorry.  Look at the ignition wires, though.  The local ground is very important for CoP ignitions, as is the ground on the ignition driver modules.  Any problem that is sudden and affects more than one cylinder seems likely to be electrical at the module level - if it is solely electrical.  Of course, you can check for air leaks, plug problems, [salt] water splashing over one or both banks, etc.  A compression check will bring out valve train problems, which are rare except for an occasional sticky valve (which are also rare in well-maintained often-driven cars) but can also be used to rule out valve train problems if identifying the problem takes more than an hour or two.

Diagnosing and fixing this should take about a half day in a warm, dry place to work.  Let us know how it works out.


CTS-V_Dashboard.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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I started a new thread about this topic "2002 STS with P0300 hopefully solved". I started at the rear cylinder bank because it seems like trouble arises in tight spots. Problem found and with new plugs the STS will hopefully perform as it should. Very strange though. Plug loose, center terminal had come off and the outer electrode was clean off. Scary.

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11 minutes ago, Jan Olsson said:

I started a new thread about this topic "2002 STS with P0300 hopefully solved". I started at the rear cylinder bank because it seems like trouble arises in tight spots. Problem found and with new plugs the STS will hopefully perform as it should. Very strange though. Plug loose, center terminal had come off and the outer electrode was clean off. Scary.

I saw and replied to that post.  Great photo.  Looks like salt and moisture got under the plug boot and, over the years, got past the seal between the insulator and electrode.  This is the kind of thing you see in very old very-low-maintenance cars.  From this thread, I thought that the problem was with multiple cylinders.  I would still change all the plugs, and, of course, clean out the plug wells (before puling the plugs), and the plug boots.  Spray can PC board or electronics cleaner should be good for that.  I would check the label of any auto de-greasing compounds to make sure that they are OK for electrical components before using those.

If you have a P0300, you can get miss counts on each cylinder with a code reader.  You tackled Murphy head-on by starting on the rear bank and it worked out well for you, so you didn't need a code reader this time.


CTS-V_Dashboard.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Thanks. I changed the plugs in 2014 so I would say that the "low maintenance" part won't apply here... I drive a lot and the plugs have about 75K miles on them. I am quite contrary rather particular about the maintenance and replaced the rear valve cover gasket a couple of months ago. Everything looked clean on the inside of the plug wells, but since it wasn’t time for the plugs just yet I decided to let them be. The other wells on the same bank looks relatively clean and nice, it is just this one that was all grey inside. My theory is that the loose plug let exhaust gases, soot and water vapor slip by and that is what caused the mess.

Well Murphy always seem to apply to me. My -93 STS had burned exhaust valves on the rear bank, then again it is the one that is running the hottest.

 

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Ahh. I'm so frustrated. Everything and everyone in this country are working at snail speed. Darn communists with a strong urge to control and “correct” whatever does not need to be controlled, at snail speed, except when it is time to collect the taxes... I have to pay custom charges and VAT a week before I get my package. There’s just a lot of bureaucrats shuffling papers and stamping documents wherever you look. Whenever I order something from the states I can see that it takes a day or two for the package to arrive from US to Denmark. Then for no apparent reason it takes a week from Malmö in Sweden to here…less than 40 miles away. Sometimes it can take weeks.

And how long can it possibly take for a Swedish bank to figure out if I'm allowed for a loan or not? In this country one does not live on his wages. Everyone here in the southern of Sweden says “that’s not where the money comes from” and pat themselves on their shoulders. We pay about 2/3 of our wages in taxes. Either they have inherited money or their parents have saved money for twenty years or so and gave it to their children. Then they take their money and buy an overpriced apartment or house and keep it for a couple of years and sell it with a big profit and can suddenly call themselves millionaires if they have been fortunate enough to live in a desirable part of the country! Me on the other side have no inheritance, no saved money from parents (I was the one lending THEM money) and grew up in the only part of Sweden where the population has fallen continuously the last hundred years. Needless to say I have not made a fortune just by moving from one place to another. Now I have the largest wages I have ever had, but the bank apparently needs to think this over…Over a week ago I made an inquiry and still have no response.

And how long can it take to transport a car from Germany to here. I can drive there and be there in less than a half day, how can it take a couple of weeks to get the CTS-V over here!

 

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Three years and 75,000 miles can be long enough for static electricity forces to accumulate soot in the plug wells, I would think.  Anything on the exhaust manifold when you park your car, like excess brake fluid, power steering seepage, anything - can result in a slightly smoky underhood environment, which is cleared in the plug wells when you start the car and the electrostatic dust cleansing begins there.

We are all looking forward to seeing pictures of your CTS-V.  Sorry for the delays.


CTS-V_Dashboard.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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This Saturday I'm going to Stockholm to look at the car, a 600+ mile trip but I’m sure the STS will work flawlessly J

As expected something had gone wrong at the bank but now they seem back on track. I’ll look carefully and thoroughly at the car and examine it with a test drive on both city streets and freeways. Hopefully I’ll make a deal with the dealer but then I’ll still have to wait a couple of weeks more because more papers need to be turned, more stamps must be put in place, license plates ,insurance, taxes and so on. It is a very slow process over here to import a car.

I have seen a couple of pictures and it does really look good.

 

P1070471.JPG

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Finally!

I've just returned home after a 690 mile drive to see and test the CTS-V. The STS averaged 19,9 mpg despite the fact that I drove mostly at 85+ mph! Still running strong after 190k miles!

I bought the V and now they just have to fix some stuff before delivery. New brake pads and service the SIR-system. They will go through the car thoroughly and fix all faults they can find without cost. They will also get me the latest map data. The car needs to get a registry plate too and the Swedish department of transportation is behind and that process alone can take weeks (not very surprising)…. So I guess it will take a while before I get to drive my new darling.

Obviously it is hard to comprehensively test drive the car in almost the middle of Stockholm but it ran smooth on bad roads and was extremely easy to drive. I found it easier to drive around town than my STS even. The Recaro seats were a perfect fit for me. Love the seat cooling too. I found some roads where I could test the performance and it is ridiculously fast even when not in sport mode...wham and I was going 75 mph! Braking and steering was in my tastes too. I tested all the functions I could find and everything seemed in order.

The exterior is in very good shape, looks very well taken care of. The interior also except that the previous owner did not use the interior panel cloth that came with the car. Small scratches everywhere on the black panels on the center console and cup holder cover if you look carefully but I suppose that they can be changed.

The V has 25 500 miles on the odometer and ran beautifully. So I payed the mandatory 20% up front and now the dealer will get the rest from my bank. Then I drove home in my STS which suddenly felt a little less compelling…The car comes with a 20k miles insurance (or a year, whichever comes first) and then my car insurance will deal with any repairs if something breaks down until the car has 75k miles on it. If I had purchased a V last year it would have been less expensive but since the Swedish crown is worthless compared to the dollar I expect that the price for a car like this will go up even more. If something comes up I’m covered with insurances and laws. Then again it is in reality up to the dealer if occurring problems will be taken care of since they now I have to fight them in court if them won’t agree to follow the law. But I am confident that they will live up to their good reputation if that would be the case. 30 years in business dealing with exclusive US cars :shaka:

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