Göran W

New STS.....

126 posts in this topic

Posted (edited)

The knock noise sounds like a bad tri-pot joint ( inner most joint of the axle ). 

Check with the suspension loaded. With a long pry bar, pry up on the axle shaft. There should be very little if any movement of the shaft.

Edited by OldCadTech

THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!!

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Sh..! I was hopeing for one solution for all..... Don´t Think a tripod can trigger ABS.:(

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No, but when you change the hub the axle will be easy to change.


THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!!

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Positive thinking...... IF the hub needs change.B)

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2 hours ago, OldCadTech said:

The knock noise sounds like a bad tri-pot joint ( inner most joint of the axle ). 

Check with the suspension loaded. With a long pry bar, pry up on the axle shaft. There should be very little if any movement of the shaft.

We were thinking alike on this, see my post at the end of the previous page


Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >> http://z-cut.de/US/dtcobd1.html

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> http://carprogrammer.com/Z28/PCM/OBD2/On-BoardDiagnosticTroubleCodes(OBD-II).mht

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Yah, you hit the submit reply button 1 min b4 I did  :bluesbrothers:

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THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!!

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I'm a slow typer.........


THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!!

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:fighting0030::grouphug::hatsoff:

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Posted (edited)

Nope! We are all wrong..... The knocking is present when car isn´t moving! Just by turning the wheel. Don´t think that is possible for bearing OR tripod?

Any new ideas?

Edited by Göran W

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Haha.......wait, this was your diagnosis

There is "knock, knock, knock" at low speed when turning (L or R). Can be heard and felt in stearingwheel.....

Logically, @OldCadTech and I responded per your symptom.

Sooooo, we were right!!!  :P   :bluesbrothers:


Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >> http://z-cut.de/US/dtcobd1.html

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> http://carprogrammer.com/Z28/PCM/OBD2/On-BoardDiagnosticTroubleCodes(OBD-II).mht

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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The 2002 4T80-E transmission was infamous for the left ( drivers ) side 3rd clutch bushing wear. My STS has it :( , when it is started cold the axle shaft and tri-pot joint will "wobble" severely and it eventually gets bad enough that the output shaft seal will leak, especially when cold in reverse. With the vehicle in park, engine at idle turn the wheels to full left and watch the left axle shaft.

If you lift the left front wheel off the ground, engine off, grab the tire at 3 and 9 o'clock and push-pull if you hear the "clunky/knock" noise check the tie-rod ends for excessive wear.

@BodybyFisher is never wrong, I on the other hand have been wrong twice:excl: BUT I divorced both of them......


THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!!

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Haha, I am wrong often!  I am 0 for 3 in that regard @OldCadTech. :-)

But we both nailed it here based on @göran description!!   Haha


Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >> http://z-cut.de/US/dtcobd1.html

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> http://carprogrammer.com/Z28/PCM/OBD2/On-BoardDiagnosticTroubleCodes(OBD-II).mht

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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:blush: I know...... Happens all the time.:(

About output shaft seal: The knock happens on turning the wheel. Cold or hot makes no difference. Reverse, Park or Drive makes no difference. Also no difference how far I´ve turned the wheel.

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49 minutes ago, Göran W said:

:blush: I know...... Happens all the time.:(

About output shaft seal: The knock happens on turning the wheel. Cold or hot makes no difference. Reverse, Park or Drive makes no difference. Also no difference how far I´ve turned the wheel.

I hope it translates good that I was just messing with you!  All in fun.  Long distance diagnosis is tough!  :hatsoff:


Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >> http://z-cut.de/US/dtcobd1.html

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> http://carprogrammer.com/Z28/PCM/OBD2/On-BoardDiagnosticTroubleCodes(OBD-II).mht

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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:hatsoff:All respect! I´m very greatful for any help. I also like to mess.......B)

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1 hour ago, Göran W said:

:blush: I know...... Happens all the time.:(

About output shaft seal: The knock happens on turning the wheel. Cold or hot makes no difference. Reverse, Park or Drive makes no difference. Also no difference how far I´ve turned the wheel.

Turning the wheel was so you could look at the axle to see if it was moving.

Having the wheel off the ground was so you could move it by hand and watch the tie-rod end for movement.

 


THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!!

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Will do ASAP..... that is monday or......:wacko: Working this weekend.:(

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New problem. I installed a USB charger for my phone. When attempting to start afterwards the lights go crazy and some relay clicks intensivly. Starter motor wont run. What happend? Is this "Anti theft" or is it low battery?

Sh.. I need to go to work soon!

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Low battery or bad /corroded connection at the battery.

If you left the door open for a long time battery will drain if car is not being driven often especially

Göran W likes this

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >> http://z-cut.de/US/dtcobd1.html

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> http://carprogrammer.com/Z28/PCM/OBD2/On-BoardDiagnosticTroubleCodes(OBD-II).mht

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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24 minutes ago, Göran W said:

Thanks BbF!

Please take a photo of your USB charging port and it's location.  USB 2.1?


Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >> http://z-cut.de/US/dtcobd1.html

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> http://carprogrammer.com/Z28/PCM/OBD2/On-BoardDiagnosticTroubleCodes(OBD-II).mht

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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"There is "knock, knock, knock" at low speed when turning (L or R). Can be heard and felt in steering wheel. "

Cadillac's and other GM cars of that era....have a known problem with clunking steering column intermediate shafts. 

My 2001 had one. I think there is a newer part available along with a couple of TSBs. Don't bother with the TSB with the special grease. 

 

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3 hours ago, Logan said:

"There is "knock, knock, knock" at low speed when turning (L or R). Can be heard and felt in steering wheel. "

Cadillac's and other GM cars of that era....have a known problem with clunking steering column intermediate shafts. 

My 2001 had one. I think there is a newer part available along with a couple of TSBs. Don't bother with the TSB with the special grease. 

 

Yes! My 2002 Monte Carlo had It!  Part replaced noise gone!  Good catch Logan


Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >> http://z-cut.de/US/dtcobd1.html

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> http://carprogrammer.com/Z28/PCM/OBD2/On-BoardDiagnosticTroubleCodes(OBD-II).mht

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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There were several TSBs for the clunk. One had you use a different grease..it came in a repair kit....that proved to be a short lived solution. 

On mine...I replace the shaft with a used one. There is a newer shaft available....not sure if it still available or not. 

Here is a copy of one of the TSBs from Google related to the clunk. Not sure if it's the latest one. It was a common issue at the time and it certainly was not just a Cadillac and Pontiac problem.  

Looking at the TSB....it says the newer design is a double D.....pretty sure my noisy one was a double D design....be sure to check to see if there is a newer bulletin. This one is dated 2006.

 

TSB#06-02-35-010 - (05/09/2006)

Quote:

 

Models: 2001-2004 Cadillac Seville -- with RPO JL4 

2001-2003 Oldsmobile Aurora 

2000-2005 Pontiac Bonneville 



Attention: This bulletin ONLY applies to the above listed vehicles. All other cars with a similar condition should refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 01-02-32-001G. 



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Condition
Some customers may comment on a clunk type noise coming from the front of the vehicle while driving during a turning maneuver. This condition may also be felt through the steering wheel when the vehicle is stationary and the wheel is rotated from steering stop to steering stop. Some vehicles may only exhibit the noise once for every 360° of wheel rotation. On all other vehicles, this clunk noise will be noticed during low speed acceleration or deceleration, typically in light turns of the steering wheel. 

Cause
This condition may be caused by inadequate lubrication of the steering intermediate shaft which results in a "slip stick" condition possibly resulting in the clunk noise.

Diagnostic Tip
Important: This condition is commonly misdiagnosed as originating in the steering gear and has resulted in the replacement of numerous steering gears without correcting the concern. 

Engineering Investigation shows that numerous steering gears have been misdiagnosed and replaced. The investigations shows that if the technician incorrectly diagnoses the steering gear as the cause of the noise and/or clunk during replacement of the steering gear, the technician may stroke and/or cycle the I-shaft, distributing the original grease in the I-shaft. This distribution of the original I-shaft grease temporarily may eliminate the I-shaft clunk so that the technician believes the noise and/or clunk is corrected with the steering gear replacement and returns the vehicle to the customer. After the customer drives the vehicles for several miles and dissipates the original grease, the noise may return. 

Attempt to duplicate the customer's concern and isolate the I-shaft by following the procedure below: 

Locate a large area (parking lot) where the vehicle can be turned in a tight circle. 
Turn the steering wheel to the right and/or left all the way to the steering lock, then off the steering lock a 1/4 turn. 
Drive the vehicle approximately 5 km/h (3 mph) in a circle, preferably over rough pavement or seams on the road surface. 
If a clunk is felt in the steering wheel, the MOST likely cause is the I-shaft - not the steering gear. Continue with the correction. 
Correction
Important: The replacement steering intermediate shaft is physically different in appearance than the original. However, the vehicle's ride performance will not be affected. 

Replace the original concentric style steering shaft with P/N 26068295, a Double "D" design. Refer to Intermediate Steering Shaft Replacement in SI.
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