compressor noise ticking hot air price Ac noise hot air

[Ben ATX]

I have a 2000 eldorado that was recently repaired because of over heating. Yes it was the head gaskets . Pricey but worth it. Now im,on to the next set of issues . My ac is stuck in defrost and only blows hot air. I will replace the actuators . I had so.eone look up Der the hood and said that a pressure reading I dictated there was no coolant at all , and nothing was kicking off. When I turned up the ac all,the way , or tried to.

My question is what is the likely hood all of these things need replacing : compressor , condensor , and dryer? Also how much should this cost ? If there is a leak is it worth having them repaired , or better to fix the more crucial parts?

[OldCadTech]

@Ben ATX instead of attaching your problem to this thread please start a new thread.

If you have trouble doing that @BodybyFisher can help.

Anyway, pull the codes and post them here. That will help us diagnose the problem. BBF can help you with a link explaining how to pull the codes.

If I read your post correctly the AC system is out or very low on refrigerant (R-134). To answer your question is very difficult without diagnosing the problem BUT I doubt if all the items will need to be replaced. If you read the post you attached this to he had a big problem and chose the temporary fix. Your Eldorado may or may not be that severe (probably not, most are not).

[BodybyFisher]

This needs to be a new thread, Bruce can you start a new thread for @Ben ATX ?

Here is where you can read up on how to read the codes, you do not just parts replace, you diagnose first.  You do not just replace actuators, without knowing they are defective. 

Your Cadillac has an ON BOARD diagnostics system that monitors all the systems, including AC, Powertrain, Suspension, Body and Chassis and more.  As the system runs it performs tests on the system, if there is a problem, it sets an error code.   You can access these error codes if they exist.   Go here to the HOW TO section (scroll down to DTC CODES) to see how to retrieve the codes, click the link Bruce shows.  NOTE:  this link is currently not working, I will send a note to Bruce.

When you get your codes post them here and we can look them over.  

You can also look them up here:

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

Realize that you just had your head gaskets done.  There are SO many connectors and vacuum hoses that can be left off and unconnected.   Sometimes a major job like that will leave MANY issues unresolved when its completed that need to be resolved.  

The mechanic that did the head gasket job should not have discharged the AC system, the engine / tranny carriage can be dropped without discharging the AC.   If he discharged it, he needed to evacuate and recharge it.  Your AC may just need to be evacuated and recharged.  

DO NOT ASSUME that you have actuator and AC problems YET, until we see the codes..

[Bruce Nunnally]

This is split off as a separate topic 

[BodybyFisher]

13 minutes ago, Bruce Nunnally said:

This is split off as a separate topic 

Thanks

[KHE]

The actuators do not control where the air is exhausted - they control the temperature.  One of for the passenger and the other is for the driver.  My bet is you have a vacuum leak.  Check the vacuum line to the intake that connects on the passenger side of the intake manifold - it is very easy to miss this line when installing the intake since the nipple is obstructed somewhat by the power steering pump pulley.  You may even have a P0171 or P0174 code which points to a vacuum leak.

Also check the vacuum line that runs under the battery tray to make sure it is not worn through

[rockfangd]

Ok here goes.

Did the AC work before the engine was repaired? most important.

Not all shops deal with AC so if they had to discharge it they may not have recharged it.

Lets start there before I ask anymore questions.

Welcome to the Forum

 

[Ben ATX]

Okay I have the codes after going to autozoneb. They are P0741 p0440.they read tcc system stuck off for p0741, and system no flow during purge for p0440. Also I wanted to add that on the print out of these codes and on there computer system these codes appeared twice.

[BodybyFisher]

Please read my post above on how to retrieve your codes from your on board diagnostic system.

AUTOZONE can only get P or Powertrain codes, AC codes are B or Body codes.  

Retrieve the codes by going to the HOW TO link I posted above, when you get there go to DTC codes and follow directions to get codes. 

Post them here

[rockfangd]

You need the codes for all modules which can be pulled by you without any tools. Follow BBFs link. Very easy

[Ben ATX]

Acm b1348 current. Got it.

[Ben ATX]

Would the computer tell me other things about the ac if they were malfunctioning. That was the only acm code that it listed.

[BodybyFisher]

10 hours ago, Ben ATX said:

Acm b1348 current. Got it.

Ok GOOD! 

B1348 Very Low A/C Refrigerant Pressure

You need to find an ac shop and have it evacuated and recharged. It should cost about $150.

Call the mechanic who did the engine work and ask if he opened it up and discharged it when he did the engine job.

Before you take it in, look to see that the low pressure switch connector is connected.   The low pressure switch is to the left of the accumulator it will be the first sensor in the piping, check that the connector is connected.  Look at 13 in this scan, check that connector is connected.

[Ben ATX]

Okay I checked and all of those parts are intact and the electronic sensor is connected .except the screw on cap that is supposed to be there is not there but I imagine it's not actually what holds any gases in , similar to if a cap was missing off of a tire.

[Ben ATX]

The screw on cap that is not there is close to 12 on the diagram pointing up . I watched a video and it is usually a baby blue color everything else including 1 and 13 on the diagram have sensors intact, also a sensor connected to 3 .

[Ben ATX]

I do not see number 4 however it just bends straight down where number 4 would be on this diagram 

[BodybyFisher]

The cap is not critical.  It doesn't hold gas in only keeps dirt out.

That diagram is from a 96, yours is a 2000 so there may be differences

[Ben ATX]

If i want to start a new thread how would I do that ? Also I cannot seem to get the little options icon in the top right corner of this site to work . It's the one that is three horizontal lines in the far right corner . Is it down right now?

[KHE]

1 hour ago, Ben ATX said:

Okay I checked and all of those parts are intact and the electronic sensor is connected .except the screw on cap that is supposed to be there is not there but I imagine it's not actually what holds any gases in , similar to if a cap was missing off of a tire.

You need the cap - It has an o-ring that will seal what the Schrader valve in the line does not.  Many times, the Schrader valves leak slightly and the cap with the o-ring prevents the refrigerant from leaking out.

[BodybyFisher]

That is good to know Kevin thanks!  I was unaware it was doing more than keeping dirt and moisture out.

[Ben ATX]

1 hour ago, KHE said:

You need the cap - It has an o-ring that will seal what the Schrader valve in the line does not.  Many times, the Schrader valves leak slightly and the cap with the o-ring prevents the refrigerant from leaking out.

Are you referring to the blue cap that should be there ?or the low side port service cap . I'm not sure if it has to be a specific color.

[KHE]

5 hours ago, KHE said:

You need the cap - It has an o-ring that will seal what the Schrader valve in the line does not.  Many times, the Schrader valves leak slightly and the cap with the o-ring prevents the refrigerant from leaking out.

The color of the cap is irrelevant - mine are all black but I am referring to the cap that covers the Schrader valves.  There is one for the low side service port and one for the high side service port.

[Ben ATX]

On Tuesday, August 23, 2016 at 3:54 PM, KHE said:

The actuators do not control where the air is exhausted - they control the temperature.  One of for the passenger and the other is for the driver.  My bet is you have a vacuum leak.  Check the vacuum line to the intake that connects on the passenger side of the intake manifold - it is very easy to miss this line when installing the intake since the nipple is obstructed somewhat by the power steering pump pulley.  You may even have a P0171 or P0174 code which points to a vacuum leak.

Also check the vacuum line that runs under the battery tray to make sure it is not worn through

I do have a p0741 dtc code , which after reading scares me because I jist spent 3500$ on the car but I cannot notice anything that seems wrong with it should this be a different post ?  I want to try and handle this as soon as possible as I was planning on keeping my new car for some time . What would be the best thing to start doing to check this or fix this ? I read that it can be as simple as tcc solenoid replacement , which I have never done , so how simple this is , is relative . But from what I understand it would mean I wouldn't have to replace the entire transmission which I found can also be another 3000$. Again after the repairs it seems to run beautifully . I drove it from Dallas to Austin and only used about half a tank of gas . 

[Ben ATX]

Also I'm wondering since I live in texas and the check engine light is on because of the p0440 and p0741 codes what should I do to fix these problems ? I have about a week before I have to get it inspected . 

[Ben ATX]

I wanted to add I realise that many of these things are basic , retrieving codes,and other things like that , and that you are doing it over and over spoon feeding people I'm sure . I am registered for automotive classes for this fall, and it is an interest , not necessarily a problem , however I am struggling with the fact I've dropped so much on this car and I won't be able to pass Inspection still . I can't afford to be driving illegally, but I can't afford to drop another several thousand dollars at this point on the car  . It's a real dilemma seeing as how it's my only mode of transportation , how I get to work and how I get to school . These are of course worse case scenarios , but my point is not fixing this car is not an option. I have to figure out how to get this check engine light off in the most effective way , I guess I can get another temporary tag for a month. Again I'm not sure if this requires another post .please help.