96 Deville Codes

[jndnaps]

OK, I hate to ask you guys about these again, but I can never figure out the code for this car. I think I got a few, but will post them all anyways. Here's what I'm getting.. Mainly my darn traction control light comes on and stays in traction control mode. I used to be able to re start the car and it would go away, but now once it comes on it stays on. Usually the next day it's off for a while.. I love this old Caddy, but I'm thinking it may be time to let it go.

PC0603 - H - Control Module Long Term Memory Reset??

PC1574 - H - Stop lamp Switch Circuit??

PC1634 - C - Ignition 1 Switch Circuit??

PC1644 - H - Traction Control Delivered Torque Output Circuit??

TC0067 - H ??

TC0073 - C ??

RS0061 - H ??

IR2255 - H ??

[Cadillac Jim]

I have these two OBD II codes:

C0073 Delivered Driving Torque [CURRENT]
B2255 Generic Loss of Serial Data (Source ID Unknown)

In the 1996 models, some OBD I codes were still thrown. I found these that look like they could be your codes:
T067 Brake Light Switch Fault
T073 PCM - EBTCM/EBCM Pulse Width Modulation Signal Fault
S061 Right Front Position Sensor Fault

Someone with a 1996 model year FSM may be able to verify or correct what I have here.

Regarding the CURRENT C1634 (I have "Ignition 1 Switch Circuit (Ignition 1 power low voltage)"), I have something on the IGN 1 circuits. In the 1997 FSM, the IGN 1 circuit is powered from the battery through a 50 Amp Maxifuse in the LH Maxifuse Block, part of the underhood fuse/relay block. This in turn powers the wipers through a 30 Amp fuse in the underhood fuse/relay block, then goes to the IGN 1 relay in the trunk compartment fuse block. That relay coil is powered when the key is in START or RUN and feeds to fuses in the trunk compartment fuse block, a 20 Amp SIR (air bag) fuse and a 10 Amp RLY IGN 1 fuse. This switched voltage is probably what the DTC is detecting.

The 10 Amp RLY IGN 1 fuse powers the PZM, ABS/TCC switch, the cruise control, and the IPC.

The CURRENT T073, if that's what it is, is an error in the PWM signal from the PCM to the EBTCM that tells the PCM what the delivered torque is. That's probably a connector or wiring problem, most likely on the EBTCM end.

[jndnaps]

Thanks for the info. I did have to replace the EBTCM about 8 or 9 years ago. It was making the car stay in traction control and made the traction and ABS lights stay on. Once replaced that went away. I also need to check the battery in the morning. It did sound a little low when I started the car. I know a low battery can cause bogus codes.. Lately I only drive the car once every two weeks or so.

[KHE]

Thanks for the info. I did have to replace the EBTCM about 8 or 9 years ago. It was making the car stay in traction control and made the traction and ABS lights stay on. Once replaced that went away. I also need to check the battery in the morning. It did sound a little low when I started the car. I know a low battery can cause bogus codes.. Lately I only drive the car once every two weeks or so.

If you're only driving the car once every two weeks, you should invest in a good (NOT Harbor Freight) battery tender to keep the battery fully charged. A weak battery is very hard on the alternator also.

[Cadillac Jim]

What KHE says. My wife's car, a 1999 Pontiac Grand AM GT, is driven very little. We have "Drive Safe & Save" on her car, a dongle on the OBD II connectord and sunshade clip-on that provides most OnStar capabilities, through our insurance company. It sends me e-mail when her battery gets low, which is once every month or so when it's not being driven at all, and I put it on a trickle charger.

My trickle charger was, until recently, a selenium rectifier analog thing that I have had since the mid-1970's. I recently replaced it with a Schumacher battery maintainer that is easier on batteries and a variable charge rate that adjusts to your battery type and condition, and reverts to a battery maintainer mode when the battery is fully charged. Amazon page:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQSIWK

It has some things that I don't need, like reverse-connection detection (my old one would just fry the selenium rectifiers if you hook it up backwards; I did that once on a friend's car, in about 1981), 6 V or 12 V automatic detection, small (ATV, motorcycle, lawn maintenance, snowmobile, etc.) or automotive/marine battery, and regular versus deep-cycle, AGM, or gel-cell batteries. The model I bought is inexpensive, just enough to do a better job of extending the life of the battery in this situation. You can spend more and get Energy Star Compliance, even better performance for keeping batteries out of sulfation, more voltages, etc.

Until I bought a battery maintainer for my motorcycle and started keeping it on it whenever I wasn't using it, including all winter, I bought a new motorcycle battery nearly every year. Now, that battery never gives any problems and I get one every five years or so just to be sure. I'm thinking of getting a quick-disconnect for the Pontiac and keeping that battery topped off all the time, too.