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rockfangd

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Since this is a second vehicle (since you have a truck to drive as a daily driver) why not pull and repair the engine yourself?

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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I have never touched one. I also work 2 jobs so time is very scarce. by the time I am done working I dont feel like doing much more. If it was a small job I would not hesitate, but I dont have the place to drop the subframe and engine out. I have done transmissions on these but without a lift it gets interesting.

Anyone have any recommendations for the NY area?

GM FAN FOREVER

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That era of Northstar engine needs the J-42385-500 kit for the Time-Serts. I don't have that one for rent. I do have the latter Northstar 2000 and 2030 kits.

It's not just the Cadillacs that pull the head bolts. Anything with an aluminum block likely has a J-42385 Time-Sert or Kent Moore kit for the head bolts. Toyotas...BMWs...etc...just to name a couple..

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I understand. I just so happen to notice the cadillacs more due to the massive amount of them.

Also being I really like them I tend to see more. I have dealt with BMWs, Jaguars, and Mercedes and I like the cadillacs the most.

GM FAN FOREVER

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Sorry to hear this rockfangd

I am thinking of opening a shop specializing in the Northstar down here on Long Island. I believe these cars are terrific and with renovation they can be given new life.

Let me know if I can help, I have a good scrap yard and will be there this week. Last motor I purchased was $600. I will have them look for an engine for you if you want and ask them to let me perform a by-products test on it before you buy it. Installation costs about $1000 in my experience, plus any replacements needed, ie mounts, seals, pipes, etc Mike

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Thanks. I see them in better condition than the one I bought in the junk yard because of the same problem.

Just to give an idea of how dedicated I am, I have been driving a 2003 nissan until I bought this Deville. There is nothing wrong with the nissan at all. But instead I choose to put a bit of money back into a cadillac that needs a bit. Cadillacs are addicting. I really like this era the best too. I hated to retire my 96. I would have fixed it if it was worth fixing. NY really killed it.

People also say wash it frequently but it does not matter how you coat it or wash it the contaminants get into places one can just not get to. It seems to be even worse over the past few years with the addition of brine to the salting on the roads

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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Sorry to hear this. You can try car-part.com for an engine.I prefer to buy mine from a LKQ. With then you can get a warranty and also their warranty had an option to cover labor of the engine fails. So then your not paying labor 2 times even though the engine is warrantied

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People also say wash it frequently but it does not matter how you coat it or wash it the contaminants get into places one can just not get to. It seems to be even worse over the past few years with the addition of brine to the salting on the roads

The good news is that i have to disagree. For the first 8 years, mine too was a NY car. I sprayed the underbody with truck bed armour. I knew that gas filler pipe would be trouble when after 1 year, it developed surface rust. I also spray raw metal with rust neutralizer, and my electrical connectors, and modules with wd-40. Also spray paint the suspension and underbody. All part of my yearly / bi yearly maintenance. Wash, and dry with compressed air in the seams. I took my rear license plate / backup light assembly out because i saw others rusting out so i spray painted the inside to give added protection. My point is that if you know the trouble spots, cover them up. I buy a gallon of wd-40 at home depot for $20 and attach the gallon can to a weed killer sprayer hose and trigger so i can get up in the hard to reach spots where a spray can would have to be upside down to spray - and just spray air.

I think old timers used to cover the underside of their cars with used motor oil, then drive down a dusty dirt road. Imagine? All that dirt under my car, and i would not be able to sleep at night!

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Check to water pump belt for slipping, check that the tensioner is free and applying adequate tension and check the pulley bearing for free movement. I just went to install a WP tensioner I took off 2 years ago and the pulley was very tight. Upon closer inspection the bearing seal was cracked and I suppose the grease had been thrown out and it solidified.20151209_152324_zpsuvatsgyu_edit_1449842

Do you recall the brand? Can the bearing and pully be replaced with acdelco? I did mine a few years ago as a precaution, and used an acdelco part. I would be displeased if acdelco parts fail like this.

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That tensioner could be quite old. It was in the car when I got it 2 years ago. It has not been driven since then so it was ready to fail. Its purely an age problem. I will save it and replace the pulley. It can hardly be turned so it would have overheated and probably leave you stranded on a trip. I was lucky to have one in my northstar box

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Mine was original. Even the originals tend to be dry. Please dont judge me for this but I drill a very small hole into the orange seal cover and inject hi temp lubricant into the hole while spinning the pulley. Then I put a dab of silicone over the hole. Then annually I like to repeat it, minus drilling the hole. It works great and is better than putting a new one that is only going to dry out again. I just did it with this tensioner and it went from noisy to smooth instantly

GM FAN FOREVER

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Mine was original. Even the originals tend to be dry. Please dont judge me for this but I drill a very small hole into the orange seal cover and inject hi temp lubricant into the hole while spinning the pulley. Then I put a dab of silicone over the hole. Then annually I like to repeat it, minus drilling the hole. It works great and is better than putting a new one that is only going to dry out again. I just did it with this tensioner and it went from noisy to smooth instantly

That is a good tip!

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Thank you. It works very nicely. I should have share the pictures of the last one I did. It is so easy and works very well.

I have never tried it on hub assemblies but In assumption of the load and speed I figure that damage is certain. It is an extremely common problem among hub assemblies and hub bearings. The little grease that they come with dries out and the bearing is short lived.

I have removed ford OEM bearing assemblies and they were bone dry. Failed at low miles

GM FAN FOREVER

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I will not judge if you don't. But... Is there a place on that where you can screw in a grease fitting instead of using silicone to cap it? Grease fittings usually go into a thick sheet metal like the tops of ball joints and tie rod ends. It's usually not a deep threaded hole, and it only has to go in a few threads deep.

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A small screwdriver with the edges ground smooth makes a great tool to pop out the bearing seals without damaging them. Then bearing grease can be worked into the bearing and then the seal can be popped back into place.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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You would not be able to use a grease fitting as the seal is very thin.

The screwdriver trick does work sometimes but it is very easy to damage the seal.

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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Well I sent the car to a shop today. They have changed these engines before and I left a list of what I wanted done.

I pray it does not kill me but will be keeping my fingers crossed. I will be keeping this updated

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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Good luck

Timesert or engine replacement?

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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engine replacement. I could not afford to have it studded.

I want to keep the old engine though so I have options in the future. I may try and tear it down myself

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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Put some engine oil down each cylinder and rotate the crankshaft a few turns on the current engine when you get it back so the cylinders do not rust during the long term storage.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Lots of first-time-internal-engine-work people have done successful Timesert jobs. The key is to read all the instructions before you begin, take your time, and be clean.

One big job is R&R the engine. That almost demands a lift and a transmission jack. If you do keep the motor, follow KHE's advice. When you work on it, rent an engine stand.

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Rockfangd, based on what Jim wrote am I missing something?

Are you timeserting your engine now?

The job DOES NOT demand a lift if you do decide to do this job. As a matter of fact, I don't think that anyone here that did a timesert job or engine swap had a lift, we used the Logan bolt drop method. I built I dolly out of 2x4s and freewheeling wheels

In addition NO transmission jack is used in the engine R&R.

I bought a 1 ton engine stand at Harbor Freight that worked perfect for $60, cheaper than renting.

I was under the impression from your prior post that you were HAVING the engine replaced, if you decided to do this based on the direction that Jims post went above, if you need ANY help let me know, I just now swapped an engine in a 97 Eldorado including moving the 300HP intake cams over to the new engine that was a 275HP variant (9 vs Y) and I can help you extensively. I did the swap and had NO codes on start up and she purrs!

I have tons of photos

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I am having the current engine replaced.

I am keeping my old engine.

I already have a engine stand :yupi3ti:

thanks for the tip on storage

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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Thats what I thought. Where are you getting the engine?

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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