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95 Eldo - clearing history codes


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This is kind of an ongoing tag on my other post. I am replacing the CatConv. on my Eldo, and went through and jotted down the codes in history.

I want to clear all history codes and reset the service engine soon light........

What a pia getting a Cat. , seems Ny where I live has grandfathered in California's laws on Cat.Conv. , and being my car says it meets federal and california emission standards I have to

purchase a California certified Cat. , yes certified, has to have a registration code or something on it too. And they are not a direct fit bolt on it seems.........

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I've heard that a lot of areas in the north east have adopted laws similar to the California emissions laws. So a lot of replacement parts that effect emissions have the have a California Air Resource Board certification. Just C.A.R.B. For short. That sucks for you.

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I usually recommend a universal 49-state OBD-certified cat because you can be on the road for about $100 if all you need are the flanges from the old cat welded on. Of course, that omits California...

But don't give up. Do a web search on "catalytic converter California legal" and poke around until you find something you are comfortable with. I did that and find that Flowmaster makes a universal 50-state OBD certified cat that sells for about $200 (part number 3588025); pictures shows no flanges so flanges and the HO2 sensor bosses from your old cat and welding required (about $25 at a good muffler shop).

I also see a Magnaflo part number 332006 that is 50-state certified, welding required, for $185 and a Walker part number 15815 that has the front flange for $135, these from Summit Racing. The call the outlet "slip fit" and offer up a muffler clamp, but I would weld all stainless steel exhaust parts for safety and durability, and I see nothing about HO2 sensor bosses in the details on the Walker, although I can't imagine a cat without HO2 sensors. That means that a phone call is necessary to make sure that it will work for you.

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-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Thank you all : ) Everyone is allways a great help here , and keeps my Caddy going.

I went with the Walker direct fit.A little research by my local parts place - great guys , private owned , showed that there is a clause that my 95 OBD1 vehicle is somehow not included in the regulations.

The walker direct fit worked like a charm - comes with the donut gasket at the header connection, spring bolts kit, and an adapter to slip between the outlet of the Cat and middle pipe.

Wich by the way solved my quest for a new middle pipe as it allowed me to cut it off beyond the break and leaking area.

Of course that was until I started it and now can notice a leak at the Y connection at the mufflers.......

A previous weld had broke right apart atthe outlet of the Cat - it was so flippin loud !! lol.

Jim - I found there are no O2 sensors located on the Cat or after it on my 95, weird I know. They must be up on the downpipes someplace, wich makes me cringe thinking of having to replace those.

Still looking for info on how to reset the codes, clear history.

Only because 2 of the repeated codes in history have me concerned, and I feel need attention while I am working on it.

one is - 022 - open throttle position sensor and 070 - intermittent throttle position sensor

a list of all of them is as follows - excluding the 2 above -

020 -

023 - ignition control curcuit problem

030 - idle speed control rpm out of range

036 - EGR pintle valve out of range

052 - PCM keep alive memory reset

070 -

083 - 24x memory signal high

095 - engine stall detected

109 - PCM keep alive memory reset

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Most of the numbers correspond to codes from more than one module. From my list of OBD I codes, with the PCM codes in bold:
S020 Left Rear Damper Solenoid Valve Short to B+
P020 (E020) Open Fuel Pump Circuit
I022 Panel Dimming Switch Pot Circuit
T022 RF Wheel Speed Sensor Frequency Error
R022 Driver Initiator Circuit Resistance Low
P022 (E022) Open TPS Signal [VCC]
T023 RF Wheel Speed Sensor Continuity Fault
R023 Driver Initiator Circuit Voltage High
P023 (E023) Electronic Spark Timing (EST) Signal problem [EGR]
S030 Speed Sensitive Steering Fault
P030 (E030) ISC RPM out of range
T036 LR Wheel Speed Sensor Frequency Error
R036 Passenger Loop Energy Reserve Feed Open
S036 Electronic Level Control Compressor Short to Ground/Open
P036 (E036) EGR Valve Pintle Position Out of Range
I052 Keep Alive Memory Error
R052 Data Area Full
A052 Keep alive memory error
P052 (E052) PCM Memory Reset
S070 Left Front Accelerometer Fault
P070 (E070) Intermittent TPS Signal
T083 Brake Fluid Level Low
R083 Driver Reserve Diode Shorted
P083 (E083) Crankshaft to Ignition Module Failure
P095 (E095) Engine Stall Detected
P109 (E109) Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Reset/PCM has lost primary battery power


I believe that the 24X signals are from both crank sensors. The text on my list for P083 seems to say that the ignition module is not getting the signal from at least one crank sensor. The P070 complains about a bad connection in the wiring harness between the throttle position sensor and the PCM, and the P022 says that the circuit is open sometimes, so it may be a loose connector on the TPS.

As far as the P036 is concerned, that seems to say that the EGR solenoid is not doing well. I would check the connectors and the resistance of the solenoid first, then if the solenoid seems good look at cleaning out the EGR, which needs to be done once in a long while. An EGR solenoid that is stuck open is not good for smooth engine performance.

There are two oxygen sensors that are part of the digital fuel injection, and they are on the exhaust manifold close to the point where all four cylinders on a given bank are represented. These are usually referred to at "HO2 sensor bank 1 sensor 1" and "H02 sensor bank 2 sensor 1." The oxygen sensors on the cat are only for keeping track of how well the cat is working, and they may not be required in OBD I cars.

I would start with the easy, free solutions: look at all the wiring harness and connector problems, and fix them one at a time. After each repair, reset the codes and see what comes back. Cleaning out the EGR and, if necessary, changing the EGR solenoid, is not too difficult for a 1995 model. If you fix all the wiring harness and connector problems and the EGR and still have problems, post the remaining codes and we will go from there.

Look at which codes are Current and which are History.

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-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Thanks Jim , appreciate the time you put in on that reply. Caught a bit of the Caddilac talk last night , actually never knew there was a chat session, pretty cool.

* I am still looking for an answer of how to reset or clear the codes though , so that I can get to what might come up now that I have changed the Cat and checked some wireing.......

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There is a link in my signature block on how to read, and clear, the OBD codes. There is a simple thing you can do, though: disconnect the negative battery terminal for a few seconds, then put it back. That will leave a couple of codes that tell that you did this, which we can ignore.

There is a C or H either before or after each code that tells whether it is Current or History. A Current code means that the problem has been seen since the key was turned on. When the car is running at all, it's best to run it until the problem occurs, then put it in Park and run the codes before the key is turned off.

Don't forget the letter before each code, one of B, I, T, R, A, S, and P (or E) that tells which module threw the code. In OBD I, a lot of modules have the same numerical code.

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-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Thanks Jim . I used the lnk and went through the procedure. I ran the car till the service engine light came back on then back home, and ran the Current codes while the car was running.

The following came back -

P036 - EGR pintle position out of range

P083 - Crankshaft to ignition module failure - this one shows as " 24x feference signal high" in the code list in my Chiltons for the 4.6L engine. - Though I trust your list more, as usually these Chiltons are a sometimes generic manual.

What the car does/did is. I took it out to get takeout food ( after the Cat. had been replaced ) - 15 minute drive mostly 55-60. Stopped , shut it off, 5 mins. getting food, come back out start it and it idles erratically , ramping up and down between 1000 - 1500 rpm,

sounding like an angry beast , then it runs kind of crappy off and on , on the way back. Idles ok when parked, ran the codes while running, at wich time the above mentioned ones came up current.

I will have to do more checking , wireing and connections, and probably pull the EGR and check it out , or just replace it....

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Most of my OBD II list is taken from an old Internet list that came from the 1996 FSM. I have expanded it quite a bit and edited some of the interpretations, largely from the 1997 FSM and online sources. Some codes are from later FSMs and online sources. I now have a 2011 model and the GM SI DVD that includes all GM FSM's from 2002 through 2011 and I use it as a source of new codes occasionally. I've put other things in the list, too (an Excel file available through a link in my signature block) such as GM RPO codes, non-OBD GM codes, etc.

So, the first two things to fix are the wiring harness to the crank sensors and the EGR. Since you have wiring harness problems, I would check the wires and connector to the EGR before I took it apart to clean it.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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I ran the car again last night and did the codes with it running and still the P036 is current and I now see ( thanks to your tip ) that the other is a T083 and not a "P" ......Chiltons shows no "T" codes.

Plan on getting it in the garage tonight and working on it some more - temps are down to below freezing here allready at night ! 22F this morning here in upstate NY.

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Looking back up at your code post just now, I see "T" is a brake fluid low code, wich makes sense because pulling out of a parking lot with it last night it popped up on the info screen - "brake fluid low" and "traction disabled" , this may be a wiring issue also.........arghh. Because the brake fluid level is ok....

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Up till 95 you diagnostic system used the OBD1 spec. Here is a list of OBD1 codes, you will see the T codes. T083 is low fluid

http://z-cut.de/US/dtcobd1.html

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Thanks - I was able to print that out for the OBD1 - pages 1-10 , and is awesome. I will keep it in my file.

Plan on working on the EGR valve on Friday. On my 95 Seville I had the EGR valve replaced by a trusted mechanic before I knew alot about them.

He showed me the valve and the bracket and explained he could save some labor time just cutting it apart next the bolt, thus not having to remove the fuel rail.........it worked needless to say.

May not have been the right choice but he knew I was short on cash and it helped.....

I had to think back and realised the Eldo is having the same issues pretty much that the Seville did years ago....am going to read the post on how to service the EGR , or might just replace it,easy enough.

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I've never done an EGR myself. I had a good mechanic that did it himself as a preventive maintenance thing on the 1997 ETC. To him it was no big deal and I'm not even sure that he charged me for that; he was doing a bunch of other stuff like servicing the transmission and it just presented itself to him while he was working. But I do know that you need to clean the EGR passages as well as the valve.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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My 91 Seville needed its EGR cleaned occasionally. Remove the EGR and tap on the frame to get rid of loose debris. Do this in an area where you wont make mess over papers and DO NOT breath the dust. Tap frame to get rid of loose junk. I soak the valve end in carb or upper engine cleaner and use 22 caliper gun cleaning brushes bent to get into the tight spots and clean the seats. There is a torx on the end of the pindle shaft, turn the pindle against the seat until it moves freely. It should take 30 min to clean it. We were told by someone very knowledgeable (the guru) not to buy an aftermarket egr. That said, i never had to replace one, just clean the crap out of it.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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So I have cleaned the EGR and now the only code I have left is the P083 - "Crankshaft to Ignition Module Failure" - the car does run . I thought I had it all set -lol - nope !

I drove it to the parts place to get another EGR gasket for my Seville as I robbed the EGR out of that one while the Eldo's was soaking. It ran good, no warning light, wich usually came on in 5 miles before.

Stopped, and went in, came back out and started it up, warning light came on and car ran crappy...a run through the codes showed the P083 as current.

Is ther more than one CPS ? ( crank position sensor) - wouldn't think so - only one crank. Chiltons shows it on the front of the engine block, and havn't looked yet...........arghhhhh.

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I dont know about 95, but starting in 96 there were 2 crank sensors. Ill check my 94 manual tomorrow, you are OBD1, not sure, but you probably have two.

I'll check that code in my 94 FSM also

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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You have two crank sensors, as someone with the right FSM can verify. You need two crank sensors for many reasons, such as being able to tell if the crank is spinning backwards (turn off the spark and gas!). But the code wording is ambiguous about whether the sensor, wire, or module failed, and which one. My money is on a connector, or on a wire, because the car runs. The 1993-1995 FSM procedure on that DTC will give a Troubleshooting Hints paragraph and a troubleshooting chart that says where to look first.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Thanks guys , it was a quick frustrated question, as I know I have to get it up in the air and look under there myself.

The Eldo is so low I have to use a set of pre-ramps to get it up on regular car ramps -lol .

It got down to below 30* here last night so I opted to look at it today rather that after dark in the driveway......

will keep you "posted" .

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If you have the means to a pull a part or pic a part, I would install a ignition module. There are 2 cranksensors on this motor and its all the same from 93-99 with slight changes in 96' with OBD2. If you can also ground the module onto the valvecover that would be a great help on the module too.

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Thanks. Last thing I di last night was run the WOT procedure a few times. I think from having a crappy exhaust leak right after the Cat, and replacing that, and other issues with running it had carboned up a bit.

It was apperent in the EGR passages and the valve itself.

I am also guilty of overfilling it with oil .....I have now read the Guru pages, and with the help of the code list here , and everyone, I am feeling I am on the right track.

I also have my 95 Seville STS wich at this point is yard bound to pull parts from and test. I think that's pretty lucky in a sense.

No codes tonight after about 15 miles and stop and start errands....

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