Chris Posted October 17, 2015 Report Share Posted October 17, 2015 Hey guys, The HVAC blower fan quit working in my 2002 SLS last week. The HVAC system is still powered, I can hear the vents opening/closing when I change modes, some heat comes in at highway speed, and the auxiliary (rear) fan still works. I started by checking the G201 panel attached just in front of the passenger door and it appears fine with no corrosion. The fan stopped without warning (most cases I've read had intermittent problems prior to quitting for good). Then I dropped the panel from under my glovebox and disconnected the blower motor. I figured I'd make sure power was getting to it before attempting a replacement. The blower connector is 3-wire. Uninsulated, purple (center), and black. Regardless of fan position (including having the whole system shut down), I'm getting 30V across the uninsulated and purple wire, and no voltage anywhere else. Is this normal? Anything else I should be checking? Thanks! -Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Woods Posted October 17, 2015 Report Share Posted October 17, 2015 I'm not sure but 30 volts seems off. I think these cars do not use a typical blower motor resistor with the different resistors for each speed. I think its pulse width controlled that supplies source voltage so about 12v engine off and 13-14.5 with car running . So the old theory of fan only works on high-speed means fan ok resistor bad is not applicable. I would test fan by using jumper wires and 12v and ground to it. If its like a deville the normal problem was the wires to the brushes would break. I've replaced a few brushes that included the braided feed wires on a few Devilles to fix the blower. It's about a $5 fix vs a $125 blower motor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted October 17, 2015 Report Share Posted October 17, 2015 The blower uses pulse width modulation to provide an infinite range of blower speeds. I am not sure how you're getting 30 volts across the terminals. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted October 17, 2015 Report Share Posted October 17, 2015 Very common for these blowers to go belly up. I keep a known good blower around to test them. Without installing it, connect the wires and see if she runs. Secure the fan or have someone hold it as the torque may cause it to move. I have had good luck picking them up in the scrap yard. Make sure you keeping the ignition wires away from the motor as the emf discharge damages the fan controller boards. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Posted October 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2015 Thanks for the replies... idiot me tested last week on VAC (new multimeter and dark outside!)... testing on VDC shows the expected 14.7V which coincides with the voltage on the DIC. There are no bone yards nearby so I just ordered a new motor. I'll post back when it arrives. Thanks again for the replies! -Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted October 21, 2015 Report Share Posted October 21, 2015 Yes let us know Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Posted November 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 I got my new motor last week and plugged it in - it worked so I know the motor was the problem. Today I removed the old one... it was a pain (having a 5.5mm wrench would've been helpful!), but I got it out. Getting the new motor in is proving to be quite a struggle. During removal I followed the instructions on AlldataDIY but there are a couple items I skipped not knowing what they were referring to (see bolded below)... these might be causing me grief now: Remove the right side sound insulator. Pull back the carpet near the blower motor. Remove the IP compartment. Remove the dash integration module from the bracket. Remove the 2 rear dash integration module bracket screws. Reposition the dash integration module bracket in order to remove the blower motor. Disconnect the electrical connector (2) from the blower motor. Remove the blower motor retaining fasteners (1). Rotate and remove the blower motor from the vehicle. What is the IP compartment and dash integration module? I removed everything that I was able to. Any other tips for reinstallation? I did read some suggestions to cut out some of the sound deadener foam on the floor for the reinstall. Thanks again for the help! -Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted November 1, 2015 Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 Cant help, I have done it on a 1995 ETC and 96 Deville. I think your blower motor is slightly different Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Woods Posted November 3, 2015 Report Share Posted November 3, 2015 The IP is just a fancy name for glove box. The DIM is just a small electrical box with 3 connectors to it. Once you unplug and remove the module you will see the bolts to remove the bracket it's attached to. If I recall the module has a tab to push to release it from the bracket. Someone gave me a Chilton manual and looking at that Deville and Seville have the same procedure. On my Deville I only removed the 3 5.5 mm bolts holding the blower motor in. I didn't remove glove box or DIM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Posted November 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2015 Thanks Jwoods! I cut back some insulation with shears but was still having trouble. It turned out the insulation I couldn't cut off (due tightness of the space) was actually preventing the top of the blower from reaching the gasket. It looked like a Dremel tool would be a help so I ordered one and it arrived today. After 10 minutes with the Dremel, installing the new blower was an absolute breeze. Blower out, noise dampening material in tact (notice all the scratches from getting the original blower out). Insulation at bottom of pic is on the back of the floor carpet and was not cut. After cutting back noise dampening material with dremel, blower not yet in: After installing new blower: The new blower is a TYC 700098 from Amazon.ca for approximately $70 CAD shipped, all-in. It works great, all I need to do now is tape in some of the sound dampening and replace the under-IP panel. For anyone doing this job in the future: I only popped out the right panel in front of the door (to allow the carpet to be peeled back) and dropped the under-IP panel. I didn't move anything else. Also, there are some hidden clips holding wiring to the blower assembly which aren't obvious and will actually hold the blower in place as you try to pull it out... beware! Thanks for everyone for helping me out with this job! Good to have it done before the cold weather strikes! -Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Woods Posted November 5, 2015 Report Share Posted November 5, 2015 Your welcome. I'm glad you got the job done. Having heat and air conditioning is a must have for me. Guess I'm spoiled now. Thanks for the pics, I'm sure it'll help someone in the future. Those wire clips had me hung up for a few minutes the first time I did a Deville blower. Then I cut my hand on the metal clip after it was removed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted November 5, 2015 Report Share Posted November 5, 2015 I am a little confused here, please explain. Is the blower motor not removed from under the hood? Why all the work under the dash? What the hell am I missing here? The blower motor come out from under the dash? Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted November 5, 2015 Report Share Posted November 5, 2015 I am a little confused here, please explain. Is the blower motor not removed from under the hood? Why all the work under the dash? What the hell am I missing here? The blower motor come out from under the dash? '98-'04 Sevilles and 2000-2011 Devilles/DTS blower motors are in the dash, hot in the engine compartment like the previous generation car. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted November 5, 2015 Report Share Posted November 5, 2015 Wow! That does not look like a fun job at all Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Woods Posted November 6, 2015 Report Share Posted November 6, 2015 Wow! That does not look like a fun job at allActually on the 2002.5 and up it's so easy. 3 bolts that hold up the insulation panel below the glove box. Then 3 screws that hold the blower in place. There is a vent tube for the motor that just slips on a nipple and 1 electrical connector. Those take about 10 minutes to change. The 2000 thru 2002.5 are a real pain. In the pics you can see the 3 screws. For the newer style you can remove blower from the plate and swap. On the the older the mounting plate and blower are 1 piece, and the plate/blower can't be removed without a lot of disassembly about a 2-3 hour job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted November 6, 2015 Report Share Posted November 6, 2015 Thanks Jwoods, good to know Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Woods Posted November 7, 2015 Report Share Posted November 7, 2015 No problem. I did my 2003 blower and was like this is easy. Then my 2002 it's an early model. That was the worst to do Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Posted November 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2015 Wow! That does not look like a fun job at allActually on the 2002.5 and up it's so easy. 3 bolts that hold up the insulation panel below the glove box. Then 3 screws that hold the blower in place. There is a vent tube for the motor that just slips on a nipple and 1 electrical connector. Those take about 10 minutes to change.The 2000 thru 2002.5 are a real pain. In the pics you can see the 3 screws. For the newer style you can remove blower from the plate and swap. On the the older the mounting plate and blower are 1 piece, and the plate/blower can't be removed without a lot of disassembly about a 2-3 hour job. Wow! That does not look like a fun job at all It wasn't! Unfortunately, I have the 2000-2002.5 style that Jwoods posted. It was 2 bolts to drop the lower IP cover, 6 bolts (3 in very very awkward places) to drop the fan, then a tight squeeze to actually get it out. -Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted November 7, 2015 Report Share Posted November 7, 2015 Good job, thanks for sharing. If you took any photos, please post. I use photobucket and image link here. Thx Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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