Shatzy

2000 DeVille, Check Engine Light Soon

63 posts in this topic

Listers,

Check Engine Light Soon indicator on dash has appeared. Any action I can take, or am I on my way to the dealer? Gas cap is on securely!

Email responses would be more convenient and appreciated.

Steve M.

SMihaly137@aol.com

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Whenever you have a warning light come on, there will be an OBD code. You can check the OBD codes yourself. Use the three buttons to the right of the Driver Information Center. With the key on (engine on or off, press <On/Off> and <Info Up> simultaneously for a few seconds until all the dash lights come on like you just turned on the key, then release them both. You will get a DIC prompt "All?" and you press <On/Off>, which means YES. You get a prompt "ALL CODES?" and you press <On/Off> again. The DIC then displays the codes in all the modules one at a time. You can repeat the sequence. Here is a Caddyinfo page on how to operate the diagnostic mode on your car to view and set the OBD codes:

http://www.caddyinfo.com/readingcodes.html

Write the codes down and post them here.


-- NO Signature photo pending Photobucket work-around!
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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If your made of money take it to the dealer and they will charge you 150$ for a gas cap and inspection.

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Listers,

Thanks for the replies.

Mechanic read code and states one of the Crank Case Position Sensor (CPS) causing a problem and also rich fuel mixture, possibly caused by CPS problem Both CPS's were replaced, once in 2012, and again in Nov. 2013, less than 3K miles ago! Shortly after replacement, Check Engine Light came on, mechanic cleaned both CPS and Problem went away until yesterday.

Mechanic will inspect CPS, and suggested that the new CPS's installed were not the updated type!

Steve M

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First, run the OBD codes and verify that this is being caused by the crank sensors. If it is, then you know exactly what you are fixing.

You can change the crank sensors yourself. It's not a particularly difficult job.

Rock Auto lists the crank sensors for the 2000 Deville for about $50 each. The upper and the lower are different part numbers:

  • Upper is 2131578
  • Lower is 2131579

-- NO Signature photo pending Photobucket work-around!
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Here's a simple step-by-step for reading the codes:

  • Turn the key on, or stop to read the OBD codes after parking but before turning the key off.
  • Press <On/Off> and <Info Up> simultaneously for a few seconds until all the dash lights come on like you just turned on the key, then release them both.
  • You will get a DIC prompt "All?" and you press <On/Off>, which means YES.
  • You get a prompt "ALL CODES?" and you press <On/Off> again.
  • The DIC then displays the codes in all the modules one at a time.
  • When done, you will get a prompt "CLEAR ALL CODES?" and you press either <On/Off> for YES if you want to clear the codes, or <Info Reset> for NO to leave them alone.
  • See the instructions at the link in my signature block for instructions to repeat the codes and other operations, like polling the modules one at a time.
  • Press <Auto> (push the temperature control knob in) to exit the diagnostic mode when you are done, or turn the key off.

-- NO Signature photo pending Photobucket work-around!
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Agree, it being a very easy fix. Just need a few tools, and time....I think the Stealership may charge around $525.00..

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Using the term "stealership" is a somewhat derogatory term, and I would recommend not using. It doesn't offend me, however we do get people that work or have worked at dealerships and they may be inclined to not help you??? <_<

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We also have a few excellent dealerships that sponsor Caddyinfo. My local Cadillac dealer is excellent, and I know of another Cadillac dealer in easy driving distance that is excellent.


-- NO Signature photo pending Photobucket work-around!
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Listers,

Thanks for all the responses to my Post. My mechanic said the code is indicating only one of the two Crankcase Position Sensors (CPS) showing bad, and that there is also an indication of lean gas mixture. He said the faulty CPS may be causing the lean gas mixture. Left the car with him just now, and he is going to check the connections. He said he can test the CPS just as well as Rock Auto?

Both A/C Delco CPS's from Rock Auto were installed in 10/13, less than 3000 miles ago and guaranteed for one year. Spoke with Rock Auto today and they said I must order one, (or two) new sensors and return the old sensors. If they find the returned sensors to be bad, they will refund my money. Obviously, I will have to pay for the labor again. Hopefully the mechanic will find a loose connection to be the only problem. My dilemma: Only one sensor is reading bad right now. Should I just go ahead and replace both, with the understanding that Rock Auto will not refund me for the sensor that is not generating a bad code?

Looks like Momma's car is going to be tied up for several few days if a bad sensor turns out to be the problem.

Again, thanks for all the support.

Steve in MD.

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First find out if you simply have a loose connector. You really don't have a diagnosis yet.

Some cam position sensors in the 2000-2001 time frame did go bad. I would think that all of them were out of the supply chain by 2013, and that if you got AC/Delco parts from Rock Auto then they were the later sensors, which don't give problems.

Cam sensors are easy enough to check. You use an ohmmeter. If we need to go there, I'll look in the 2002 FSM and see if I can find the procedure, which should have the maximum and minimum resistances.

You still haven't run the codes yourself. This is an enormously empowering tool. It only takes a few seconds and is very simple to do.


-- NO Signature photo pending Photobucket work-around!
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Jim,

Thanks again for your help. Good to have you on here! I'm not at all famiiar with using an ohmmeter, and don't even own one. And, getting under a car is now physically impossible for me at my ripe old age of 79; my mind doesn't think it's a problem but other parts of my body don't agree! So, I'm kind of at the disposal of the best mechanic I can locate and trust. It's really frustrating these days because I've always enjoyed doing my own work on my vehicles to the extent possible.

The mechanic has had the car all day and I'm patiently awaiting a call with a report from him. I'll be sure to give you an update on the situation.

Regards,

Steve M.

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You can run the OBD codes from the driver's seat in a few seconds. If you do that and write them down here, in addition to telling us what your problem is, we can tell pretty much what is going on with the car.


-- NO Signature photo pending Photobucket work-around!
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Hey Listers,

Got the 2000 DeVille back from the mechanic late last night. He pulled both Crank Case Position Sensors (CPS), tested and confirmed that they were OK, and that they are the current, updated parts purchased from Rock Auto. Given the tight space to access these sensors in the engine, it's plausible that they were not securely installed when they were both replaced in 10/13, 3000 miles ago. Great mechanic, and no charge for this service which I'm sure took him approximately one hour!

At this point, only time wil tellI if the problem has been resolved and put to rest. The mechanic did tell me that, since there are two CPS's in this car, it's highly unlikely that I would get stranded on the road if only one failed and that i would probably see some warning signs of a pending problem, i.e hard starting. I can only hope he's right!

Thanks for all the responses.

Steve M in MD

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He's right. Using two sensors provides a backup. When both are working the ignition will get the crank data quicker and also will know instantly if it kicks backwards so it can cut off the gas and spark if that happens. But, driving along, if one fails all you will get is the MIL coming on and a code telling you to fix the bad one.


-- NO Signature photo pending Photobucket work-around!
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Hey Jim,

Had the car out today and the Ck Eng. Soon light again started blinking, went off, but then went steady. Stopped by the shop and they read the code again; it indicated a misfire. Mechanic reset the code and said it could be other sensors now failing, or could even be one or more bad plugs. The engine was replaced in this car approx. 20K back, and "they assured me" they put new plugs in at that time. This is also the third time the CPS have been replaced! The CPS's in there now are OEM from Rock Auto, are the updated plugs and tested AOK.

I have the procedure that I think you provided for me to check the code from the console. If it comes up again before I take the car back to the mechanic, I'll try to follow the procedure and provide you with the code results if that's OK with you?

Regards,

Steve M.

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Hey Cadillac Jim,

Enclosed are the Codes I pulled from the onboard diagnostics. I received the instructions from www.caddyinfo.com/readingcodes.html

Unfortunately, the Codes mean nothing to me; I didn't see any reference to the Crank Case Position Sensors or Mmisfire. I hope you can make sense of them. I erased all codes at the completion. I'll drive the car again today and see if any codes reappear.

IPM B0429 IPM B 1004 IRC U 1064 IRC UC016 PCM - 0300 RCC B 1009

Thanks for any time you can devote to this.

Steve M.

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Ok your main right now is the p0300. The onboard will only give you that code but a scantool should give you the cylinder number(s)

Bsically P0300 the last number will be the cylinder number rather than a 0. Example P0304 is a cylinder 4 misfire.

The p0300 just shows there is/was misfiring present. When the SES light is flashing it is misfiring bad enough to affect emissions and potentially be harmful to the Cat(s)


GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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Hey rockfangd,

Thanks for taking the time to reply. My mechanic offered that he suspected the plugs, in particular cylinder #4 might be causing the misfire. He and I were 'hoping' that the dealer installed all new plugs when they replaced the engine less than 20K mile back.

Can you tell me, looking at the car from the front, which is cylinder #4? Perhaps I could have my son change only that plug out if it's not too difficult to reach. The dealer mechanic did tell me that the rear plugs on the 2000 DeVille are a real bear to access, even with his wide assortment of tools.

Thanks again for your time.

Steve M

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IPM
B1004 Keep Alive Memory (KAM)
B0429 Temperature Control #3 Rear Circuit Range/Performance

IRC
U1064 Loss of Communications with DIM
U1016 Loss of Communications with PCM

PCM
P0300 Engine Misfire Detected

RCC
B1009 EEPROM Checksum Error

You have an engine miss that the PCM has detected, throwing the P0300 DTC. The PCM keeps track of miss counts on each cylinder over a period of time and the ones that exceed a threshold set P030n codes, where n is the cylinder number; these codes, as rockfangd says, are aren't displayed by the DIC but can be read by a good scan tool. Something like a crank sensor or vacuum leak may not set a P030n code if the misses are on random cylinders.

Your radio seems to be off the network, as shown by the IRC codes.

The rear climate control (RCC) usually doesn't throw a B1009, but anything is possible. Another code that I find odd is the IPC throwing a B0429, which I would think would come from the RCC. One code, "IRC UC016" is out-of-format and I took it to be U0016, which is a guess.

But, as rockgangd says, there don't seem to be any crank sensor codes. I would give it time and try again to see if the PCM is counting errors before it sets a code.


-- NO Signature photo pending Photobucket work-around!
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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I believe 4 is in the front by the radiator. IIRC. passenger side to driver side. 2,4,6,8.

I just went through similair with my 2001 eldo. Found the coil pack module was cracked all over the place and was bad. Same cylinder IIRC. cylinder 4. That would be my number one priority before something gets damaged. Cats dont like raw fuel


GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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So, are you advising pull #4 plug, check and possibly replace it? Perhaps if I pull more than one plug I can determine if the dealer did, in fact, replace the plugs at the time the new engine was installed.

Also re. the IRC Codes U 1064 & U1016, the adio seems to be performing fine. I use the XM feature most of the time!

Steve M.

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I would pull the coilpack and inspect it for damage

Then pull the boots and inspect for oil in holes, pretty common for valve covers to leak.

Then pull all 4 plugs and inspect them well. If need be replace them. If you replace them and problem continues replace the coil


GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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Hey Jim,

Im getting ready to pull the #4 spark plug which the mechanic thinks is misfiring. It was also suggested on The List that I check the coil pack for cracks.

Problem: I'm not sure how to get to either of these areas. Seems like last time I pulled the large cover off of the engine I could not even see the plugs!

Any advice, or direction to a video would be appreciated.

Steve in MD.

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