barczy01 Posted March 29, 2014 Report Share Posted March 29, 2014 the two bolts on the strut at the knuckle. Leave the strut in the car, just knock out the two bolts by using an air hammer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sts03 Posted March 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 i was talking to tim from ccc and he was saying its do able to remove from the top and he was saying if i remove the water crossover it the rest will be easier.i replaced the crossover gaskets not that long ago so i know how to take that off .thats far in details we went so far.i heard some say the radiator has to be removed if you want to go out the top? sts03 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barczy01 Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 Wow removing the engine from the top is just plan work. Remove the radiator and condenser yes, take your time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 i was talking to tim from ccc and he was saying its do able to remove from the top and he was saying if i remove the water crossover it the rest will be easier.i replaced the crossover gaskets not that long ago so i know how to take that off .thats far in details we went so far.i heard some say the radiator has to be removed if you want to go out the top? Removing the water crossover with the engine in the car is an absolute PITA. When I Timeserted my STS engine 8 years ago, I was going to do it with the engine in the car - by the time I got it stripped to the block, I decided to remove the block and it took me only 20 minutes to get the block out of the car. If I would have just pulled the engine from the start, it would have been much less time due to not having to mess with the water crossover and other fasteners in awkward angles. The brace that goes from the right head down to the block will still drive you crazy... Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sts03 Posted March 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 If I was to drop it from the bottom could I lift the front high enough with a forklift and chain to get it out without damaging the muffler tips? sts03 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sts03 Posted March 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 If I was to drop it from the bottom could I lift the front high enough with a forklift and chain to get it out without damaging the muffler tips? sts03 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted March 31, 2014 Report Share Posted March 31, 2014 If you are going to use a forklift, why not build a cradle/skid so you can lift the body of the car straight up and off the powertrain? Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sts03 Posted April 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2014 Do you space at my work and thieves I Want to take out little as possible, if I dropped the cradle next thing you know my struts,axles,etc. May disappear. sts03 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sts03 Posted April 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2014 im getting there just have to get all the trans /engine brackets ,disconnect the y pipe and a couple more wires and hoses.for one how do i get the oil pressure switch off and do i disconnect the exhaust on the y side or converter side? sts03 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted April 3, 2014 Report Share Posted April 3, 2014 Use a deep metric socket or a box-end to get the oil pressure switch off. I don't know about how to unhook the exhaust. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted April 3, 2014 Report Share Posted April 3, 2014 Why are you removing the oil pressure sender for engine removal? Just unplug it... There are four nuts that hold the Y-pipe to the converter. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sts03 Posted April 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2014 Oh my bad I meant the oil level sensor plug connector.I got it out though .it's ready to pull just waiting for my work to get propane for the forklift.so the engine/Trans have alignment dowels if so how do I remove them ? sts03 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted April 7, 2014 Report Share Posted April 7, 2014 No need to remove the engine/trans. alignment dowels. Once the four bellhousing bolts are removed, the engine will separate from the trans with very little effort from a pry bar. If the engine won't separate, there is a brace that is still holding the two together. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sts03 Posted April 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2014 ok thanks,i need to put the engine in TDC before removing the timing chains right also, how do i lock it in TDC without the special toll gm calls for in the fsm? sts03 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted April 7, 2014 Report Share Posted April 7, 2014 Here's the Kent-Moore J 44214 on EBay for $10 (in Canada): http://www.ebay.com/itm/KENT-MOORE-J-44214-FLYWHEEL-HOLDING-TOOL-/161257517027 There are several others in the $15 to $20 asking price range. Watch out for gouges, though. I found them new for $75 to $105, probably plus shipping. You don't want a new one for just one job. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sts03 Posted April 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 thats a good price on that tool but it will take to long to get here ,engine is ready to be pulled tommorrow due to it raining today .a trusted cadillac mechanic told me that that tool isnt really necessary that you can stick an extension through one of the holes on the flywheel and that will hold it to get the damper nut off ,also to line up the timing marks and mark them for assembly. sts03 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted April 8, 2014 Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 When I Timeserted my engine, I made the tool to lock the flywheel - the Kent-Moore tools were obscenely priced. Once the engine is on a stand, I used C-clamps to clamp onto the flywheel and then clamped the clamps to the engine stand to keep everything lined up. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sts03 Posted April 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2014 Well the engine is finally out. sts03 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted April 11, 2014 Report Share Posted April 11, 2014 Congrats! The worst part of the job is over. I would suggest completely degreasing the exterior of the engine before disassembly in order to keep crud from getting into the internals of the engine. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted April 11, 2014 Report Share Posted April 11, 2014 In any internal engine repair, cleanliness leads to reliability! Pictures??? -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sts03 Posted April 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2014 thanks ,yea i am going to clean it up real good only if i can get the time.im doing this at my work and i work 10 hour a day .i have to work a half day tomorrow so hopefully i can get the holes drilled and tapped.i got the damper nut off and loosened 10 head bolts but i didnt take them all the way out yet cause i want to degrease it .i wanted to make sure i could break loose the head bolts witha allen key and not an allen socket.i had to put a pipe over the allen to get the bolts that werent pulled,three on one bank were pulled so far. sts03 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted April 12, 2014 Report Share Posted April 12, 2014 Which head bolts were pulled? -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sts03 Posted April 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2014 Well this engine was already Time serted two of the time serts came out with the head bolts.there was a total of six head bolts that were loose that I could actually loosen without a breaker bar (just using a regular Allan key.I'll post some pics.the pistons have a lot of gunk on top of them. sts03 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted April 21, 2014 Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 You will need the Bigsert kit to fix your engine. It has the larger diameter inserts. You will also need four head locating dowels from Timesert as the original dowles will be too small to fit in the machined holes after the Bigserts are installed. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winterset Posted April 21, 2014 Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 Also there is also the likelyhood that there is a level of corrosion around the threads that will make the block unusable. The aluminum gets a powderery characteristic. There are no certs that will work in this condition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.